Is it Brandy, Grappa, or Vodka?

Since the rise in popularity with France’s Ciroc, a myriad of grape vodkas have been unleashed onto the spirits market. This proved most fortunate for brokers such as myself. With the opening of an entirely new market, many possibilities could be thrown into the mix. I for one, began preaching the virtues of Georgian Chacha to any importer who would listen. After all, Chacha is the “original grape vodka.”

Today we will explore the world of clear grape brandy from the former Yugoslavia. In Croatia, Montenegro, and Serbia, clear rectified spirits are not referred to as vodka. Nor are they seen as Grappa. In this part of the world, grape vodka is celebrated as one of the many prolific brandies produced throughout the region.

How do Grappa, grape vodka, and clear grape brandy differ? Grappa is an Italian, grape- based pomace spirit. It is made by distilling the skins, pulp, seeds, and stems (pomace), that are left over after a pressing of grapes for wine. Grappa’s flavor is similar to wine, however, it depends entirely on the type and quality of grapes used. The alcohol content generally ranges from from 35%-60%. Grape vodka is clear and strong. The minimum alcohol content is 40%. It is distilled from only quality grapes. In the Republic of Georgia, both Saperavi and Tsinandali grapes are preferred. For my palate, I go with the bigger and bolder spirit that is distilled from Saperavi. French Ciroc is noted for its blending of “snap frost” grapes, Mauzac Blanc from the Gallic region, and Ugni Blanc from the Cognac region. For those of you who follow my column regularly, are aware that Mauzac Blanc makes an excellent sparkling wine. California distillers, on the other hand, prefer blending  French Colombard and Chardonannay from the state’s Central Valley. If you are curious, give Roth Vodka a sampling. With a bottle price of only $30, I am sure that you will be more than pleasantly surprised. Now that we are clear (pun intended), on Grappa and Grape Vodka, we will now move on to clear brandy.

Let’s start with Serbia. I like to fancy myself as an eminent exponent on Slivovitz. When the topic of Serbian Slivovitz comes up, I can go on endlessly on the virtues of plum brandy, and how Serb distillers have mastered the crafting of this indelible spirit. Do keep in mind that along with some very good wines, Serbia also produces an array of notable fruit brandies.

Up first, Flores Serbian Grape Brandy. This family owned distillery which is located in Divostin, dates back as far as 1803. Since then, Flores has been regarded as one of the country’s preeminent distillers of premium fruit spirits. On the nose, the brandy is lightly aromatic and mild. On the palate, it is creamy, smooth and delicate. The finish is mild and delectable with next to no trace of burn. This is a brandy that is meant to be enjoyed neat and sipped slowly. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $55.

Traveling south we come to the break away republic of Kosovo; Kosova as the locals prefer to refer to their country. The country’s traditional spirit is known as Darda. This crystal clear brandy is distilled from only the finest Rahovec grapes. This region is Kosova’s most prestigious viticultural area. The nose is lightly aromatic and inviting. On the palate Darda is soft, smooth, and a joy to drink. The finish is mild and pleasant with no burn. Darda is the perfect aperitif. The alcohol content is 43% with a bottle price of $30.

For our next selection, let’s move on to Croatia. The cuisine from this land along the northern Adriatic Sea is among my favorites. Croatian wines are delectable, and the Maraska Komovica Brandy is superb. What separates this clear brandy from the others? Maraska Komovica is distilled from “mare,” over fermented grapes. It is considered by Croats as their traditional spirit and served in snifters. The nose, though only lightly scented, dispels more fruit aromas than other clear brandies. On the palate, Maraska Komovica is smooth and mellow. Since it spends some time in oak, it if fuller and creamier than other clear brandies. Maraska Komovica takes well to the natural warming by the hands and shows its character and finesse well. The finish is smooth with hints of fruit and no burn. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $35.

In this part of the Adriatic Montenegro is one of my favorite countries. For the past couple of years I have been debating whether or not I should buy a beach house and just laze about over the summers. It is only fitting  since I especially enjoy Montenegrin wines, I conclude with unique spirit that has long been a favorite with the locals. For our last selection, I chose a clear brandy from Montenegro. Kruna, which translates as “Crown,” is a distinctly Montenegrin spirit. It is distilled in small volume copper vats which has been the tradition in Montenegro for centuries. The process is slow, allowing for good cooling. This is done to achieve a better quality spirit. On the nose, there is the distinct aroma of menthol. This comes from the special Vranec grapes used in making Kruna. Though the palate is fresh and light, Kruna is indeed an acquired taste. The finish is crisp with just a bit of burn. Kruna is most often served as an aperitif. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $30.

If you have not tried any of these spirits, I highly recommend that you give them a taste. They are easy and most enjoyable on the palate. Better still, they are readily available in in the States.

On a final note, I would add that both clear grape brandies and vodkas are meant to be drunk neat. When used in cocktails, I feel that the spirit is lost in the mix … “But that my friends, is another story … “