Red Wines from Germany?

Red wines from Germany? Isn’t it too cool there, even for Pinot Noir? Not at all. In fact German red wines and not only thriving, they are becoming very popular throughout the world. Back in the 1980’s, red grapes accounted for only 12 per cent of Germany’s vineyards. Today, that number exceeds 36 per cent. The most notable of Germany’s red wines include, Trollinger, Blaufrankicsh, and Pinot Noir.

Today I am joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Liesel Braun. We are exploring the world of German red wines. Though beer is Germany’s national beverage, wine has definitely made its mark on the country’s social structure. Reds are not only gaining with the Germans, but the international market as well.

In Stuttgart, visit any wine bar or biergarten and you’ll be surprised to see Germans quaffing down bottles of a local wine known as Trollinger (traw-ling-ger). This grape grows primarily in the Wurttemberg region and the Swabians love it. What is most interesting about the appearance of Trollinger, it looks more like cherry kool-aid rather than a rare and unique wine. In Italy this grape is known as Schiava and in Austria, Vernatsch. However, neither country shares Germany’s enthusiasm for the grape. Truth be known, Wurttembergers drink it like water. It has also been documented to have been a particular favorite of Martin Luther.

Trollinger first came to Germany during Roman times. It is believed that its name is derived from “Tirol-linger” because it originated in Tirol, Italy. It is a late harvest wine and does not ripen until October. Served cold, Trollinger resembles a strong rose. It is a fresh and fruity wine with an odd, almost medicinal finish.

Our first selection was a Wuerttemberger Trollinger 2007. On the eye, it is a lovely dark rose color. The bouquet is fragrant with a light fruitiness. On the palate it is a light and lively wine with plenty acidity, it was a bit sweeter and with more residual sugar than I had expected. I found the finish on our Wuerttemberger Trollinger on the odd side and somewhat lacking. The alcohol content was 12.5% and a price tag of $22.

“Though this wine is well made, it is just not my palate,” Liesel paused to collect her thoughts. “As for pairing this wine, I would serve it with most anything that goes along  with a Rosé.”

“Every festival I have attended in the Stuttgart region, where beer is the order of the day, Trollinger is seemingly being enjoyed by many,” My tone was one of amusement.

“I must admit that I do not share their enthusiasm,” Liesel shook her head in disdain. “Trollinger is not very tasty, and its popularity bewilders me. In fact, I think it should be blended. I am sure that the result would be a much better wine.”

Blauer Limberger, also known as Blaufrankisch or Lemberger, thrives along the lower stretches of the Danube River. Typically the wines are extremely dark in color. Being a late-ripening variety, it is rich in tannin with a spicy pronounced character. On the nose there are aromas of dark ripe cherries and dark berries. On the palate, it is often silky with spice flavors, boysenberry, and blackberry. Young wines are deeply fruity and become more velvety and complex with age. The finish is long and fruit accented. Lemberger wine can best be categorized as between pinot noir and syrah. Germans are quick to repute that Lemberger was quite popular with both Napoleon Bonaparte and Otto von Bismarck.

Our next selection was a Grafen Neipperg 2008 Lemberger. This is a ruby red wine. It is charming in character, showing bright red fruit aromas of cherry and blackberries. On the palate, there is a good concentration of red berry fruit and well-balanced tannins. The finish proved to be long and fruity. The alcohol content is 13% and a price tag of $23. On a historical note, the counts of Neipperg have cultivated vines for over 700 years in the wine-growing region of Wurttemberg. Hereditary count, Karl Eugen, has been responsible for the wine estate since 1984.

“I like this wine very much,” Liesel’s eyes crinkled softly as she began to smile. “I am also positive that with a bit of aging, Lemberger meets with your palate.”

“It does indeed. I very much like our Grafen Neipperg,” I gave her a quick wink. Perhaps we should call on the count and share our praise.”

“Prost!” We both erupted euphorically.

“This is definitely a food wine. I would serve it with blue or goat cheese. Pasta and red sauces would also go nicely. “Liesel, with what foods would you pair this Lemberger?” I queried.

“Roasted lamb or wild game,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “I think a nice roasted hare would go over nicely.”

Our next wine comes as a bit of a surprise. In Germany, Spatburgunder is to red wine, what Riesling is to white wine, the creme de la creme. This grape varietal is sensitive to climate and soil. It also needs warmth to thrive and ripens late. Sound familiar? If you recognized that Spatburgunder is the German equivalent to Pinot Noir, welcome to the head of the class.

Spatburgunder was brought to Germany from Burgundy as early as the 4th century. However, Spatburgunder differs from Pinot Noir. The intended result of Pinot Noir is to produce an elegant, velvety wine, with a distinctive bouquet of bitter almonds or blackberries. German Spratburgunder, in contrast, is lighter in color, body, and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates. Yet these wines have lost none of the character and appeal that is indicative of Pinot Noir. What German winemakers have essentially done is to take their understanding of cool climate viticulture, and produce some wines that rival even the most long established producers of Pinot Noir.

Our last selection was a Karl H. Johner Pinot Noir Enselberg 2008. On the eye, it is a pale cherry red color. The nose is filled with a concentration of cherry fruit, and notes of herbs and spices. Overall the bouquet is fragrant, and perfumed. On the palate, our Johner Pinot Noir is medium-bodied, taut, with black cherry undertones.  There is also a piquant and spicy edge. Though “Old World” in style, there is just enough sweet fruit to satisfy one’s palate. The finish is silky, fluent, and pure.The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $35.

“I especially like the soft texture to this Pinot Noir,” Liesel eagerly shared her delight. “I would pair it with lighter style roasted game birds.”

“I found the bouquet a bit too perfumed,” I flashed Liesel a reassuring smile. “Overall, I was quite impressed and particularly liked the pepperiness of German style Pinot Noir.”

“Now our readers know that there is certainly more to German red wines other than Dornfelder,” Liesel chuckled softly.

“But that my friends is another story …”

Why German Wines?

The city of Stuttgart is unusual for a German city. The country’s sixth-largest city spreads across rolling hills, valleys, parks, and of course, vineyards. Long time friend and fellow sommelier, Liesel Braun and I have returned to this wonderful city after spending a few days traveling along the banks of the Mosel River, exploring the wines of Rhinegau and Rheinhessen. This is a panoramic land of rolling hills and castle crowned vineyards whose viticultural history dates back to the time of the Romans.

Liesel and I are at one of the city’s most popular cafe/pubs, Cape Tormentoso. The basement bar has a flair all its own and quite popular with the local hipsters. The drink menu is one of the best in Stuttgart and the wine selection is equally as encompassing.

“Let’s not forget the food,” Liesel was quick to add. “Cape Tormontoso also serves some very delicious food.”

German wine can be a bit of a challenge to pair with the heavy and hearty local dishes that the country is renown throughout the world. Whenever German wines are raised in the conversation, Riesling is always the first choice. Keep in mind that not all Rieslings are sweet. Good bottles of the noble vino are labeled “trocken,” which means dry. However, today, Liesel and I will be tasting some wonderful German wines that are lesser known, but readily available in the States.

Rheinhessen is the largest of Germany’s regions producing quality wines such as Riesling, Mueller-Thurgau, Silvaner, and Liebfraumilch. It is also the home of my favorite German Riesling, Dreissigacker.

Our Dressigacker Riesling Trocken 2010 is a wonderful wine that can be enjoyed with or without food. It is a refreshing wine, and one of my favorite daily drinkers. Dreissigacker is a pale lemon in color with hues of green. The bouquet is rich in ripe green apples, plums, and a hint of lime peel. On the palate, this Riesling is fruity, elegant and well-balanced. The finish is long and pleasurable, making you crave more.

“When you first introduced me to this wine I was quite pleased,” Liesel smiled fondly. “It is also nice to see a young vintner like Jochen Dreissigacker find success so early in his career.”

“Jochen was very instrumental in helping Chris Terrell and I popularize his Riesling throughout California.”

“I like the off dryness to this Riesling,” Liesel paused to collect her thoughts. “I would serve it with salads, shellfish, and fish.

Our Dreissigacker Riesling Troncken 2010 is only 12% alcohol and with a price tag of $20.

These days, there are a lot of great wines being produced in Germany. At one point, the German winemakers stood at the pinnacle and rivaled the French. After a series of setbacks, Germany is one again producing premium world class wines. Among some of the most interesting are those labeled “Spatlese.” The literal meaning is “late harvest.” Spatlese wines are on the sweet side, yet not to the point of being considered a dessert wine. Due to its lower alcohol content, Spatlese wines work well early in the meal.

Our next selection was a Selbach-Oster Wehlner Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2006. It is a pale yellow in color, edging on gold. The nose is somewhat intense, displaying notes of lemon, apple, and honey. On the palate it is off-dry to medium, with high acidity and medium body. It is balanced nicely with flavors of honey, lemon, and apple. The subtle mineral quality on the end palate brings the wine to a very nice finish.

“I especially liked the wine’s acidity,” Liesel concluded. “It was quite zesty and refreshing. This wine could be paired with a wide variety of foods.”

“This is a great wine to sip and enjoy on its own,” I nodded in approval. “A very good buy at $25.

Our Gutzler Blanc de Noir White Pressed Pinot Noir 2007 is not a Riesling. It is made from the juice of from red pinot noir grapes that have been pressed out and fermented without skins. It is a pale yellow in color with a light greenish tinge. The bouquet is earthy with lovely herbal hints. It is a clean and light dry wine that offers flavors of peach and apricot, along with strong mineral notes and a good finish. This is a great wine to enjoy on its own or as an aperitif. The alcohol content is 13% and a price tag of $25.

“Gutzler can be enjoyed with a wide range of seafood,” Liesel flashed me a smile. “I often enjoy it with sushi.”

“Myself, I prefer it with oysters,” I flashed her a mischievous grin.

The Franconia region is known for its white wines. Gruner Silvaner is Germany’s most underestimated grape varietal. Nevertheless, it is quite popular with the locals. This lovely wine has a floral bouquet with hints of apricot and peach.The mouthfeel is very soft and very drinkable. Perhaps even too drinkable. Every time I visit Germany, I find myself drinking more Silvaner than the other popular German varietals. Silvaner is always dry. There are two broad styles to Silvaner. The lighter and crisp style tastes of fresh green apples. While the Kabinett-style of riper grapes is richer, creamier, and on the earthy side. On a completely different note, it is easy to spot this wine by the unusual bottle shape. Known as a bochsbeutal, its shape is flat, round, and quite distinctive.

Our Weingut J. Storrlein & Krenig 2008 showed a richness of yellow apples and a most enjoyable and deep mineral quality.

“I especially like that Storrlein is consistently good among Franken producers,” Liesel nodded in approval.

“I especially enjoy how the Kabinett-style wines have fully ripened,” I paused to enjoy my Silvaner.

“The grapes are typically harvested in September,” Liesel added.

“Liesel,” I called for her attention. “What foods would you pair with our Gruner Silvaner?”

“Since Kabinett is medium dry, I would pair it with lamb, poultry and veal,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “I would also serve it with ragout, fish, and salads.”

Our 2008 Weingut J. Storrlein & Krenig has an alcohol content of 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“The evening is still young,” Liesel remarked flatly. “Let’s go for a walk and then a cup of Rudesheimer Kaffee.”

“But that my friends, is another story …”

Hungarian for Dessert

There is an old Hungarian saying that if you dig a hole, hot water comes up. Throughout the alluring city of Budapest, thermal spas abound. The Gellert Hotel supersedes all competitors. Standing majestically on the banks of the Danube and at the foot of Gellert Hill, sits the marvelous Art-Nouveau spa. Often proclaimed as the “world’s greatest spa,” There is little to contradict such a bold statement. With every visit to these noble baths, I find myself feeling more at home and at one with this city. From the hotel’s Panorama View Restaurant, the Danube River has settled to a serene and tranquil evening calm.

“Would you stop,” the lovely young lady sitting across from me playfully scoffed. “You sound like like a commercial for the Gellert.”

Laughter and a sense of joviality set the mood for our tasting. Today, I am joined by longtime friend and fellow sommelier, Nora Haumand.

“I promise you that if tomorrow is a sunny day, we will visit the Szechenyi Baths,” I assured Nora.

A playful smile filled her face. “Ah yes, their pool is my favorite.”

“There is one fact about Budapest that you most definitely must share with our readers,” Nora’s tone was matter of fact. “The history of our name.”

Budapest is actually comprised of two cities, Buda and Pest, with the Danube River separating them. What is also quite interesting is the Roman Empire ended with the hills that surround Buda; while the Hunnic Empire of Atila the Hun, began on the plains of Pest.

“Gregory, you have the soul of a Hungarian,” Nora flashed me a quick wink.

“I think my Cossack friends in Ukraine would beg to differ,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “Perhaps I was a Hun in a previous life.”

“No, not a Hun,” Nora quickly broke. In, “Most likely a Hungarian gypsy.”

We erupted euphorically. “Complete with violin, no doubt,”I toyed playfully. “What is for dinner, I’m famished. And more importantly,” I paused for effect. “What wines have you selected?”

As our server quickly set our table, I marveled at the spectacular feast set before us. Our dinner was comprised of various traditional Hungarian dishes that one would expect from so grand a meal, and so opulent a restaurant.

“Nora,” I called for her attention. “I have heard tell that two million people dwell in Budapest, but only two-thousand live.”

Her face brightened into a smile as she poured me a glass of Rosé.  “And let there be no doubt which category we share.”

We began our meal with the customary bowl of Gulyas soup, accompanied by a delectable array of hot peppers, fatanyeros, grilled stuffed cabbages. nokedli, small dumplings, and roasted pork, all served with a generous helping of paprika. Nora also ordered hortobagyi palcsinta, a savory crepe filled with veal and served in saffron, a particular favorite of mine. Hungarian cuisine is always accompanied by an assortment of cheeses. Our table had been graced with turo, a type of quark, juturo, ewe-cheese, trappista, a semi-hard cheese, and palpusztai, a soft cheese.

“Are you ready for dessert?” Nora smiled broadly.

“Dessert?” I queried. “I’m stuffed.

“Gregory, shame on you,” she toyed playfully. “We are here to do ask tasting on dessert wines.”

At length, I looked up, gave her wink and flashed an even grin. “If I must … I guess it’s back to the salt mines.”

Hungarian dessert wines begin and end with Tokaji. For most Hungarians, Tokaji wines can only be spoken of in the superlative. Part of the success of these wines is in fact due to geography. The country’s far north region, which borders Slovakia, boasts a unique climate. Due to the protection of the nearby Zemplen mountains, the foothills are known for their long warm autumns. Completely unique to this region are the mists that come in from the Boldrog River. These mists contribute to the creation of a perfect condition for the “noble rot.” The botrytised (aszu) grapes for which this region is famous thrive until picked as late as mid-November. The next step is to store the grapes in buckets known as ‘puttonyos,’ and crush them to a paste. Varying amounts of aszu paste are then added to pomace or a wine that is made from the region’s indigenous grapes. At this point, the mixture is then left to ferment. The resulting wine is then aged in small barrels. Another uniqueness in the making of this legendary wine are the storage facilities. Typically the barrels are stored in a soft volcanic tuff, on whose walls thick blankets of fungus regulate the humidity.

Our first selection was a Pannon Tokaji Forditas 2008.

“Egeszsegedre,” Nora toasted me. “I really like this wine. It shows apricot on the nose and fruit and honey on the palate. Though sweet, there is a bit more tannic acid than other aszu wines.”

“I like the fact that the Forditas can either be drunk now or aged for another 5-7 years,” my reply was one of certainty.

“I also like that it goes well with most any desserts.”

“Like our crepes, the Gundel Palacsinta filled with nuts and chocolate sauce,” I teased.

“But of course,” Nora flashed me a wide beaming smile. “I would also serve the Forditas at 50-54 degrees Fahrenheit.”

Keeping with theme of Aszu wines, our next selection was a Pannon Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2004. This wine proved to be well-balanced showing lime, apricot, and botrytis on the nose. Citrus, honey, and fruity flavors on the palate. What really sparked my attention was how the flavors and fragrances of modern wine making and the traditional barrel aging are united quite elegantly. Our 2004 Pannon showed best at 50-54 degrees Fahrenheit. It can also be aged from 5-10 years.

“I knew you would favor this wine,” Nora paused to heighten my anticipation. “Not only does the wine go well with desserts and blue cheese, it also pairs nicely goose liver pate.”

Just then our waiter approached our table, and to my utter delight, he presented me with a small dish of my favorite foie gras.

Our last wine, a Pannon Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos 2004 a bit on the pricey side but a sheer delight to those who have imbibed and enjoyed this aromatic and intoxicating elixer. What makes this Tokaji so delectable is after pressing, the juice is fermented and aged in wooden barrels for at least two years. The resulting wine can be drunk now or aged 15-20 years.

“For me this is the dessert wine of dessert wines,” Nora’s delight was quite evident. “I would also chill it to 50-54 degrees Fahrenheit and serve it with sweets.”

I would agree that the wine is well made and I can clearly see why those who are enchanted prefer it. However, I’m afraid this wine is a bit too scented for my palate,” I shared my hesitation with Nora. “I also find the honey, citrus, and fruity flavors a trifle over powering.”

“Perhaps you should try it with some foie gras,” Nora chuckled. “it actually pairs quite nicely.”

“Touche,” I gave her a quick wink. “I need to walk off dinner. Can I interest you in a moonlight stroll along the Danube …”

“But that my friends is another story …”

Orange Wines … Not Just a Fad

Orange wines have exploded on the market, yet the question remains, are they here to stay? Critics see such wines as just a passing fad, while upbeat sommeliers extoll their virtues. In reality, very few Americans have ever even been introduced to these lovely gems.

Let’s begin by setting the record straight. Orange wines are not orange. In color, they range from a bright gold to a tawny brown. Orange wines are in fact, white grape varietals that are produced more like reds. There is a prolonged maceration of crushed grape skins and seeds. The result is a full-bodied white wine with the tannic taste of a red.

Virtually any white wine grape can be used: Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Malvasia, Ortugo, Trebbiano, Ribolla Gialla, just name a few.

The Republic of Georgia excels in this style of wine-making and skin fermented whites have been popular throughout the centuries. Since these wines are typically made in amphorae pots, the mark of the Georgian style is quite evident. Renown Georgian vintner, Gela Patalishvili of Pheasant’s Tears, is the country’s leading proponent of macerated wines. I am quite fond of their Rkatsiteli. This golden amber colored wine has a honeyed nose, yet remaining dry and full-bodied. On the palate there are pleasurable notes of walnut and apricot, and memorable finish. Orange wines can be a bit more difficult to pair, yet this Rkatsiteli will go nicely with roasted chicken, duck, or quail. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $20.

However, Georgians are not the only winemakers to excel in this style of fermentation. Orange wines have also found considerable favor with both Italy and Slovenia.

Italy’s Josko Gravner is easily one of my favorite vintners. I am often reminded of those California nights with my friend, and fellow sommelier, Coly Den Han. We would often enjoy a bottle of one of Gravner’s amphorae wines.  I would recommend a 2003 “Breg.” This is an enticing blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Pinot Grigio. In coloring, it is a deep orange brass. The nose is concentrated and oxidized with dried persimmons and pears. This is a distinctive and refreshing wine that pairs well with pork dishes. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $95.

Slovenia’s Stanko Radiko produces bold cutting edge wines that are not for the faint of heart. If you are feeling adventurous, I would recommend his 2004 Ribolla Gialla. The hand-harvested grapes have been soaking in their skins for better than a month. Next they are fermented in large oak barrels without temperature control, no added yeasts, enzymes, or sulfer. The result is a sherry-like wine that is somewhat cidery in taste. This wine not only comes alive, it maintains a favorable freshness to its character. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $35.

In recent years, both California and Oregon vintners have begun experimenting, and found favor with orange wines. Such California wineries as Broc Cellars, Wind Gap, and Scholium Project are cutting edge in the realm of macerated wines. While in Oregon, Big Table Farm, Cameron, Johan Vineyards, and Antica Terra are leading the way … “But that my friends is another story …”