Bulgaria the Land of Wine Pioneers

The Balkans are an ancient land that has given rise to such heroes as Orpheus and Spartacus. Since the Iron Age, some 3500 years ago, Thracians have long dominated Bulgaria and developed it into a mighty kingdom. The Thracians, legendary warriors of antiquity, were ready, willing, and able to hold their own against any foreign threat from the surrounding kingdoms. That is until in the 4th Century BCE, when the mighty phalanxes of Alexander the Great conquered the Thracian lands, and deposed King Teres.

 

With the advent of Greek settlements, wines of the Agean flourished throughout the Bulgarian lowlands. Yet for centuries, the proud and noble Thracians have managed to keep their wine traditions alive. Though Bulgaria ranks among the world’s most prolific wine producers, the country is only recently finding its identity as a modern wine producing nation.

 

Today, we are the city of Burgos and enjoying the sandy beaches that hug the Black Sea coast. From the veranda of Sunny Beach’s Bolero Bar, we have a captivating view as the sun begins to set. Filling the evening sky with hues of magenta striated by great golden swathes, a deep purple eventually dominates, as day gives way to night.

 

For this wine tasting, I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Galina Vranchev. We will be sampling some of Bulgaria’s indigenous varietals along with some special blends that have found wide favor in the international wine community.

 

“Do keep in mind that the Bolero Bar is considered by many to represent the pinnacle of Bulgarian cuisine,” Galina openly displayed her pride. “I took the liberty of ordering some traditional hors d’oeuvres often enjoyed with our wines.”

 

I was immediately impressed by the dishes that were displayed before us. Watermelon wedges with Feta cheese and fresh lime leaves. Nettle and mushroom coquettes with yogurt sauce. Lyuti chushki, roasted and marinated chili peppers. Podlucheni tirvichi, fried zucchini with dill, garlic, and yogurt. And lastly, Bulgaria’s most famous salad, Shopska. The dish is comprised of tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, parsley, onions, and Feta cheese prepared in the traditional Bulgarian style. The Shopska salad is served withy a dressing comprised of vinegar and sunflower oil accented by a blend of pepper and spices.

 

Mavrud is one of Bulgaria’s oldest, and definitely most popular varietals. The name comes from the Greek, macro, meaning, “black.” It is a late ripening red grape that is capable of producing tannic, spicy wines, with a potential for aging. It is also popular with Bulgarian wine makers to use Mavrud for blending. This indigenous varietal thrives in Bulgaria’s Kara Thrace region, primarily in the appellations of Asenograd, Perushitsa, Pazardzhik, Stara Zagora, and Chirpan. I am sure that by now you may be feeling a bit lost, so let’s move on to tasting the wines.

 

For our first selection, Galina decided on a 2003 Erigone Special Selection Mavrud. Produced by Brestovitsa Winery in the Thracian lowlands, the 2003 Mavrud has been aged between 10-12 months in Bulgarian oak. In the glass, the Erigone is deep ruby red with an almost mesmerizing sparkle. The nose is dominated by intense fruit, slightly reminiscent of blackberry, black cherries, and currants. The bouquet is accented by endearing oak nuances followed by the earthiness of the forest floor. On the palate, the wine is rich, opulent, and bursting with the flavors of black fruit, followed by both chocolate and vanilla oak notes and round tannins. The finish is long and memorable. Erigone of mythology was seduced by the god Bacchus. He did this by turning himself into a cluster of grapes. I am sure that like Bacchus, you will find this alluring wine most seductive. The alcohol content is 13% and with a bottle price of only $25.

 

“I was completely taken aback by the complexity of this wine,” I nodded in approval. “Wonderful bouquet as well.”

 

“Agreed,” Galina flashed me a wide beaming smile. “Mavrud is also very versatile and pairs nicely with most meat dishes.”

 

For our next selection, Galina picked 2003 Marvud & Rubin. Rubin Bolgarskii is an indigenous grape variety that was created in 1944 by the Institute of Wine and Vine in Pleven. They did this by crossing Syrah and Nebbiolo. Since it ripens early, Rubin has become quite popular throughout such European countries as Slovenia, Moldova, and Romania and is often used in blends. This is precisely what the winemakers at Brestovitsa have done with the 2003. The Mavrud & Rubin have spent 12 months aging in Bulgarian oak barrels. In the glass, its color is an intense and deep ruby red. The nose is an absolute delight. Rich in red berries, caramel, coffee, and a whisper of forest floor, all carry onto the palate. Deeply textured, velvety smooth, and a round body, the 2003 is a nicely balanced wine that presents itself quite well. The finish is long lasting and steady. The alcohol content is 13 % with a bottle price of $22.

 

“I am most impressed by the range of flavors from aging in Bulgarian oak,” I flashed Galina an even grin. “Most impressed.”

 

“Our oak is in many ways the secret of our wines,” she replied in a matter of fact tone.

 

“What dishes would you pair this Mavrud, Rubin blend?”

 

“Most all beef dishes,” Galina paused to reflect fondly. “My favorite would be Sarmi.”

 

“Sarmi?” I queried.

 

“It is a traditional Bulgarian dish of minced beef, rice, stuffed in cabbage,” she was quick to express her delight.

 

For our last wine, Galina selected a 2004 Cuvee Passion. Produced by the Assenovgrad Winery of central Bulgaria. The winery first opened its doors in 1947, and as of 2004, been completely renovated to meet modern international standards. Today over 65% of Assenovgrad’s wine production is exported to Western Europe, Canada, and the USA. The winery only uses the finest grapes from the Assenovgrad region. Aged 8 months in small barrels of French, American, and Bulgarian oak, this bold wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mavrud, and Rubin. In the glass, the Cuvee Passion is a glorious deep ruby red. The nose is rich and complex, with inviting aromas of vanilla and chocolate. On the palate, the 2004 shows good fruit that has been impeccably balanced. There are also pleasant accents of cinnamon, spice, vanilla, and chocolate that round out this elegant, full bodied wine. The finish is long and lasting. The alcohol content is 12% with a bottle price of $20.

 

“I’ve heard that Bulgarians often serve Passion Cuvee slightly chilled.”

 

“That is correct,” Galina paused on the moment. “However, I prefer to serve this versatile wine at a room temperature of around 65 degrees Fahrenheit.”

 

It is quite clear that Bulgarian wine pioneers are making their mark on the international market. These unique wines have found their greatest popularity in Germany, the Netherlands, the Baltic States, the Czech Republic, the UK, Canada, the USA, and Vietnam.

 

“Vietnam? But that my friends, is a different story …. “

Unique Georgian Wines

Striated with colored hues of magenta and amber, sunset slowly covered Tbilisi’s skyline. As the sky slowly purpled above us, Medea and I hustled to meet Shorena, our  fellow sommelier. Tonight we planned to meet in Old Town’s poplar jazz spot, Cafe Kala. Shorena had arranged for us to taste three of Georgia’s most unique wines.

“I see her,” Medea called out. “She’s sitting in the patio area.”

“It is such a lovely evening, I thought we’d sit outside.” Shorena motioned us to take our seats. “Once the band starts, we can easily here the music from here.”

To my delight, our servers immediately filled our table with eggplant, peppers, tomatoes,   stuffed mushrooms, goat cheese, lamb kabobs, and lavash bread. “A table set for a king.”

“Or a prince,” Medea said with subtle coquetry.

“A prince without a crown,” I chuckled.

“Grigol,” Shorena called for my attention. Tonight we will be tasting Saperavi, do you approve?”

Saperavi is Georgia’s hardy varietal and a staple in most Georgian blends. Translated, it’s name means ‘paint or dye.’ What makes Saperavi unique is both the skins and flesh are red in color. The best Saperavi grapes are grown in the Kakheti region of the Alazani Valley.

“Shorena, what is our first wine?”

“Pheasant’s Tears. It is a 2008 unfiltered Saperavi,” Shorena said confidently. You know the owner of the winery, correct?”

“Yes, I know both John Wurdeman and his wine maker Gela Patalishvili. They produce some interesting hand-crafted wines. They do this by following the ancient Georgian tradition of pressing the grapes and then storing them in bees-wax lined amphora pots called “kvevri,” I replied matter-of-factly.

“Grigol, do you know the tale of the Pheasant’s Tears?” Medea queried.

Before I could answer, Shorena blurted out. “In the story, a hero claims that only a wine beyond measure can make a pheasant cry tears of joy.”

“On that note,” I smiled. “Let’s drink some wine … Gaumarjos!”

On first sight, the wine is such a dark red it is called black by Georgians. Savory hints of charcoal, black pepper, smoke, black currant, and pomegranate are dominated by mulberry and plum. On the palate,  this full-bodied wine has a velvety structure with strong tannins and acidity, and a most pleasurable finish. Pheasant’s Tears is an exciting and original wine that even the most discerning of palates would enjoy. This Saperavi pairs best with roasted meats and hard cheeses. However, Georgians often prefer this wine with sheep cheese which is typically soft in the middle.

“Shorena, what is the alcohol content?”

“13 per cent. Grigol, are you ready for our next wine?”

“Of course.” I gave a nod of approval.

“Our next selection is a 2003 Saperavi from Vinoterra. The alcohol content is 13 per cent,” Shorena flashed me a wide beaming smile.

“Isn’t Vinoterra now owned by Bukhard Schuchmann? Medea queried.

“Yes, and his winemaker, Giorgi Dakishvili and I go way back. He is my friend and teacher.” A smile filled my face as I reflected on the times I raised a glass with the gentleman I consider to be Georgia’s finest winemaker.

Vinoterra Saperavi is made in the traditional Kakhetian style. Fermented for 20 days in amphora pots before transported to oak barrels for 24 months for full maturation. Finally, the wine is bottled unfiltered. There is a deep inky purple coloring to this wine. Along with complex cherry aromas, there are notes of ripe blackberries, mulberry, and a hint of mint and clay. There is a rustic side to this concentrated charmer as the silky tannins accompany a long lasting aromatic finish. Overall, this Saperavi is a deep wine rich of extract with good aging potential. This wine goes well with an assortment meats and cheeses.

Medea nodded her approval. “I understand why you admire Giorgi. He is an artist when it come to hand-crafted wines. I wish I knew his secret.”

“Love and passion for his craft,” I smiled. “Also his preference for using the best grapes from vineyards 30-50 years old.”

“Ready for our last selection?” Shorena asked with excitement.

Giving a nod of approval. “What’s the next selection?”

“A change of pace. I have selected a 2006 Mukuzani from Teliani Valley.”

“You know my next question.”

13 per cent alcohol,” Shorena chuckled.

Teliani Valley uses totally modern techniques with temperature-controlled fermentation and some aging in small oak barrels. Though their methods for making wine are quite progressive, this winery’s soul dates back 80 centuries. One tradition kept alive at Teliani Valley, all grapes are hand-picked.

So what makes Mukuzani so special and one of my personal passions? The Saperavi grapes come come from only the Right Bank of the Alazani River in Kakheti’s renown Mukzani Appellation. This is the creme de la creme of Georgia’s favorite grape varietal.

Shorena’s final selection certainly lived up to it’s reputation. The wine is dark ruby red in color. The bouquet is a smooth aroma of ripe berry, black currant, plum, and hints of oak. There is a generous mouth filling of fruit on the palate. Fleshy cherries and black plum abound.

“Followed by luscious blackberry.” Medea was quick to add. “And the slightest hint of … licorice.”

“This Mukuzani is juicy and tasty,” Shorena remarked. “And since it was aged in oak for 13 months, this adds to it’s complexity.”

“I also liked the smooth finish. Ladies, I think with the moderate tannins and acidity, this wine would pair nicely with roast beef, lamb chops, and grilled steak.”

“Barbecue veal or ham,” Medea was quick to add.

Flashing both Medea and Shorena a quick grin. “For fun, I would even pair our Mukuzani with spicy Indian dishes.

Georgian reds are definitely distinctive and delicious I thought to myself. Breaking my mood of of thought and reflection … Medea giggled playfully.

“Mmm, spicy Indian food. Little India Restaurant?”

We broke into laughter as Shorena was first to speak. “I guess we will come back for the late jazz session.”

But that my friends is another story …

“Bond, James Bond … Wrong?”

Medea and I made our way up Tbilisi’s Abashidze Street . As usual when I am with Medea, we are running late. Tonight we are dining with two longtime clients from Tokyo, Fumio and Kenji.

At length, we arrived at our destination. To my surprise, our guests had not yet arrived. The Sakura Restaurant is the best place in Tbilisi for business meetings, sushi, and sake. The food is delicious, prepared in the traditional Japanese style, and the ambiance most pleasant. The Sakura’s decor is expressive of the elegant simplicity that is Japan.

As our guests were escorted to our table, and after the customary pleasantries and a multitude of bows, we took our seats. Motioning for our waiter, I was quick to order sake and ask to see our chef.

Chef Giorgi Chincharashvili and I have developed a close relationship over the years. With each trip to Tbilisi, I have shared his table many a time. Quite the charmer, Giorgi welcomed our guests and made them feel comfortable.

“Grigol,” Giorgi paused to contemplate the moment. “Shall we go fusion or stay traditional?”

Knowing I am multi-ethnic, Giorgi is always quick surprise me with his culinary delights. However, aware my guests palates, I gave Giorgi a quick wink. “Let’s stay traditional, but of course with a touch of Georgian flair.”

As Giorgi politely excused himself, my focus shifted to Medea. “My apologies, I need to speak to Fumio and Kenji  in Japanese.”

Once we concluded our business, Kenji flashed Medea a quick smile. “Has Gregory-san ever told you the story of when he returned from his first trip to Japan,” he asked with a heavy accent.

“No,” Medea said flatly. “Grigol, do tell.”

“I spent the summer in Kanazawa, in Japan’s east. I was visiting relatives and studying Japanese. When I came home my grandmother, Hanako, asked me what I had  learned. I was quick to share with her that I learned I had an LA accent when speaking Japanese. But not to worry, I worked hard to correct this flaw.”

Both Fumio and Kenji erupted euphorically. Fumio was first to realize that Medea did not understand the humor behind the story and was quick to explain. “His grandmother, Hanako Takeuchi, grew up in Los Angeles.”

Medea now joined in our merriment. Seeing that our sake had arrived she was quick to take charge and ensure that our guests were properly served.

“Grigol, when did the Japanese side of your family first immigrate to the States?” Medea queried.

“About 150 years ago. My great-grandmother, Yoneko Takeuchi came by way of Bremerton, Washington.”

“Yonsei,” Kenji said flatly.

“Wakarimasen, I do not understand.” Medea struggled with her Japanese pronunciation.

“Fourth generation … Yonsei, means I am fourth generation Japanese in the States.”

“And the Spanish side of your family,” Medea paused slightly. “When did they come to the States?”

“With the Gaspar de Portola expedition of 1769. We Alonzo’s were quite the conquistadors. We raped, robbed, and pillaged with the best of them.”

“Oh, Grigol, stop it,” Medea toyed with me.

Fumio patted me on the shoulder. “Share with Medea the James Bond story.”

A smile filed my face. “In the film, ‘You Only Live Twice,’ Bond is served sake. 007 is quick to show his cultivated palate and country club manners and comments that he especially enjoys sake when it is served at the correct temperature, 98.4 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“Isn’t that warm?” Medea queried.

“Yes,” Kenji replied. We Japanese have long associated overheating with low grade sake. Heating is used to mask the impurities of cheaper sakes.”

“Ah so desu ka? Is that so?” Medea broke out in laughter.

“Kampai,” we raised our glasses in the first toast of many to celebrate the evenings festivities.

Sake, more properly called nihonshoshu, can be served at a range of temperatures. However, true connoisseurs tend to favor serving on the cool side. Pending on the brand, I prefer my nihonshoshu at room temperature.

“If chilled, 68 degrees Fahrenheit is quite appropriate,” Fumio added.

“Once again, depending on the brand of nihonshoshu, 50 degrees Fahrenheit is acceptable,” Kenji broke in.

“So you see Medea,” Fumio smiled politely. “Mr. Bond, James Bond may be a connoisseur, but with regard to nihonshoshu, he is most definitely not an aficionado.

When our food arrived, we all delighted in the sumptuous feast before us. Agadashi tofu, gyoza, yakitori, motoyaki, tempura, sashimi, maki and nigiri sushi, unagi, and my favorite, soft shell crab.

Several dishes and many flasks of nihonshoshu later, we finished out meal.

“In Japan,” Kenji struggled to express himself clearly in English. “We say a real man can drink 8 flasks of nihonshoshu.”

“I was in the Marines the first time I tried to drink 8 flasks.”

“Only men in a samurai film,” Fumio laughed.

“I was in the Marines the first time I tried to drink 8 flasks.”

“What happened?” Medea asked with interest.

With fond reflection I laughed under my breath. “Let’s just thank the gods for taxis. Oh yes, and the maitre d’ who got me into my cab and safely back to base.”

“Gentleman, shall we now imbibe in some fine Georgian white wines?” Fumio queried.

“Yes,” Medea was quick to add. I have something very special for you gentlemen to try.”

“Medea is referring to a lovely Georgian wine called Kisi.” I then called for our server to invite Giorgi to join us.

Medea, confident in her tone, “Kisi is fermented and matured for 5 months in traditional Georgian amphoras and another 12 months in oak barriques …”

But that my friends is another story …