The Viking Way … Nordic Spirits

From Vikings to little mermaids, the Danes are known for more than just breakfast pastry. Keeping in mind that Denmark is the birthplace of Lager beer, it is a safe assumption that Danes know how to enjoy themselves. In Copenhagen, most bars have a happy hour affectionately known as “Double Up.” Back when I was at the London School of Economics, I ventured north on my first trip to Denmark’s legendary capital. I soon learned that “Hygge” is an essential ingredient to the Danish way of life. The translation is “forgetting daily problems and enjoying the simple things in life.” Rich in history, and wonderful people who enjoy a less stressful way of life, it is no wonder that most surveys conclude Denmark to be  “the happiest place in the world.”

Today I am joined by fellow sommelier, and very long time friend, Alana Madsen. We are enjoying our lovely view from Cafe 22, Copenhagen’s ultimate lakeside cafe.

“Don’t forget the savory brunch,” Alana was quick to add.

“I agree,” my eyes crinkled into a soft smile.” “As you well know, I often eat here.”

“I remembered,” Alana motioned for our server to bring over a dish. “Especially for you.”

“Aebleskiver,” I exclaimed with delight. “My absolute favorite!”

This delectable pastry translates as apple slices. In essence, it is a traditional Danish pancake. It is somewhat similar to an American pancake crossed with a popover. It is light and fluffy, and quite delicious. In the States they are sold commercially as “Pancake Puffs.”

“In California, I often visit a city named Solvang. The Danish restaurants in the area boast that their aebleskiver is the best statewide. My nephew, Austin, would often accompany on these jaunts for the aebleskiver alone.”

“I thought long and hard on what spirits would interest our readers,” Alana paused to collect her thoughts. “I felt it only appropriate we begin with Akvavit.”

The name Akvavit is derived from Latin, “aqua vitae,” or “water of life.” The word whiskey is derived from Goidelic or Gaelic. Likewise, clear fruit brandy in France is called “eau de vie,” or “water of life.” Of particular interest to wine enthusiasts, an apocryphal story holds that Akvavit actually means “water from the vine.” Now that I have your interest, Akvavit is simply a Scandinavian spirit produced from either grain or potatoes. However, there is a distinct flavor due to the addition of spices and herbs. Typically caraway or dill is favored, and the alcohol content is 40 per cent.

Our first selection was Aalborg Extra Akvavit. This is a rich, mild, golden-colored luxury spirit that is celebrated amongst the Danes. It is by far the most popular export brand of Akvavit in the world.

“My father always started and ended his day with a glass of Akvavit,” Alana smiled in fond reflection.

“I like this Akvavit very much,” I paused to savor the spirit. “It is elegant in mouth feel, with a few simple aromas. Dill is encountered in the refined company of coriander, the prime characteristic of this pure and fruity liqueur.”

“Overall, our Akvavit is nicely rounded with a piquant burnt quality suggestive of,” Alana paused lightly, “Caramel.”

“Alana, with what dishes would you serve Akvavit?” I queried.

“It is an excellent pairing with fish,” she paused lightly for effect. “Fried fish in particular. Pickled duck or chicken with a full-bodied white sauce.”

Our next spirit was a Heering Cherry Liqueur. It is made from the small small dark Stevns Cherry which thrives on the long ripening period of Denmark’s cool Nordic climate. The cherries are harvested in August and the juice is crushed together with the pits. This gives Heering its characteristic hint of almond. Next a secret combination of of spices that has been in the Heering family since 1818 is added. Finally, everything is poured into great casks to mature for a minimum of three years.

“Heering is generally considered one of the very best cherry brandies,” Alana smiled softly. I adore the strong cherry taste, especially when I want an aperitif.”

“What is the alcohol content?”

“I believe 24 per cent, “ Alana replied. “I think you will find it a trifle too sweet for your palate.”

“I found there was a definite taste of cherry in the forefront, but beyond that I got a distinct wine-like flavor,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “I would say the flavor was reminiscent of sweet vermouth, followed by a mild burn.”

“I know that most barmen prefer to use Heering’s when mixing cocktails,” Alana paused slightly. “Most believe that you can’t make a classic cocktail without this special cherry brandy.”

A huge smile filled my face. “Did you know that in 1915, Heering was used when the barman at the legendary Raffles Hotel created the Singapore Sling?”

“The things you know,” she smiled heartily as she poured us another glass.

Our next selection was Kirsberry, another Danish cherry brandy. Like Heering, Kirsberry, does not contain any artificial coloring or additives. However, Kirsberry is much different in style. Kirsberry follows a hundred year old family recipe that remains secret. On the nose, Kirsberry is deep and rich with syrupy notes. On the palate it just oozes cherries. The finish is sweet then sour cherry, with just a hint of plum skins towards the end. The golden chalice that adorns the bottle is a symbol of quality.

“I agree,” Alana flashed me an even smile. “Kirsberry is easy to drink and very smooth on the palate. It is big on cherries and I especially enjoy it mixed with tonic water.”

“What is the alcohol content?”

“Typically between 15-16 per cent,” Alana replied with a grin.

“You drink like Hercule Poirot,” I gave a hearty laugh.

“Who?” Alana queried.

“He was a Belgian sleuth in Agatha Christie novels,” I smiled in fond reflection. “He was also a connoisseur and gastronome.”

“Well, on that note, let’s order,” Alana playfully rubbed her belly. “I am famished.”

“But that my friends is a different story …”

German Grape Brandies

Berlin is a thrilling city that pulsates with excitement. It is a city of culture whose orchestras and museums are renown throughout the world. Culturally, Berlin, the one time capital of the Prussian Empire, is home to many festivals, diverse architecture, contemporary arts, and nightlife.

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Liesel Braun. We have chosen Jolesch, a candle-lit traditional style Austro-Hungarian restaurant for our tasting.

“Gregory,” Liesel patted the back of my hand lightly.” I love Jolesch’s tradtional Austrian menu without any of the traditional Austrian stuffiness.”

“So true,” I chuckled under my breath. “What specialities have you ordered for us?”

Austrian cuisine has many regional influences. Dishes from Italy, Hungary, Bohemia, Germany, and the Balkans have greatly influenced the Austrian palate creating a fusion style par excellence. Liesel had seen to it that our table had been set with a formidable array of delectables especially popular in Vienna. There was liptauer, a spicy cheese, eaten on sliced bread. Powidil, a thick sweet and spicy jam made from plums. There was a lovely array of strudel consisting of everything from cheese, apple, and cream. We also had an abundant selection of sausages made from chicken, beef, and pork. All this was topped off with a selection of sweet Austrian breads.

“Gregory, Liesel paused to gain my attention. “I have selected some of our popular brandies that I am sure you will find to your liking.”

After such a meal, I am ready for a good brandy or two or three,” I laughed lightly.

German monks were distilling brandy by the 14th century and the German distillers had organized their own guild as early as 1588. Yet almost from the start, German Brandy has been made from imported wine, rather than the more valuable local varieties. Most German brandies are produced in pot stills and must be aged in oak for a minimum of six months. Brandies that have been aged in oak for at least one year are called “uralt” or “older.” The best German brandies are smooth, somewhat lighter than Cognac, and finish with a touch of sweetness.

Our first spirit is a perennial favorite to the Germans people. Asbach Uralt is a grape  brandy that is distilled in the Rhineland in the city of Rudesheim. What makes this spirit so endearing to Germans? The Treaty of Versailles decreed that the word “cognac” could only be used for French spirits. Hugo Asbach, the company’s founder, responded by coining the term “Weinbrand” for German brandy. However there is much more to the differences with German brandy. Asbach is fruitier and subtly sweeter than cognac, and pairs exceptionally well with chocolates. Perhaps a master plan by Hugo Asbach himself: the company also produces quality chocolates. A favorite cocktail with Germans is to mix Asbach with coke. Another popular drink is Rudesheimer Kaffee, coffee with brandy.

Asbach is blended from twenty-five different wine distillations and then aged for three years in French Limousin oak casks. On the eye, Asbach is a deep golden color. The bouquet is filled with harmonious aromas of grape and oak. On the palate, it is mild, with  subtle notes of plums, grapes, and nuts. The finish is clean, crisp, and with a rather surprising astringent flavor. Asbach is 38% alcohol with a price tag of $40.

“Gregory, did you know that Asbach enjoys an ardent following, almost cult-like, amongst British and American soldiers previously stationed in Germany?” Liesel’s tone was flat and matter of fact.

“I was not aware of this fact. I am a former Marine and served in Asia,” I playfully teased her. “I do know that during both WWl and WW11, Asbach did in fact find favor with the troops.”

“On cold mornings, I often start my day with a shot of Asbach in my coffee,” Liesel flaunted a mischievous wink.

“Yes, of course,” I nodded in agreement. “Rudesheimer Kaffee is definitely a new twist on Irish coffee.”

Our next selection was also from Asbach.  The Selection Brandy is aged twenty-one years in Limousin oak casks. This is a brandy for the connoisseur. Even the most discerning of palates will be impressed by this impeccable brandy. On the eye, it is a deep mahogany in color. On the nose there are light floral notes along with a notable blend of spice leading to caramel, nuts, coffee, and wood. On the palate, there are notes of both coffee and toffee. It is full-bodied, yet an exquisite harmony keeps its strength from dominating. This noble brandy is 40% alcohol with a price tag of $175.

“I love the finish on the Asbach Selection,” Liesel smiled jubilantly. It is long and persistent.”

“A very special brandy indeed,” I concluded. “One that I intend to add to my collection.”

Our last selection, was first distilled by the Mariacron family in 1894. Since its inception, Mariacron has been a leading German premium grape brandy. The color is a lovely amber. On the nose, the bouquet is vinous, delicate, and fragrant. It is soft and delicate in nature and nicely balanced. On the palate, Mariacron is composed yet flavorful, with hints of orange, ripe fruit, and oak. The finish is long, well-integrated, and lingers sweetly on the palate.The alcohol content is 36% with a price tag of $25.

“Over all, a nicely balanced brandy,” Liesel savored her drink. “I like the subtlety of Mariacron.”

“I do like the subtlety on the bouquet,” I paused on the moment. “For my palate, Mariacron is a bit on the soft side. I would use it more for cocktails.”

“What is your brandy cocktail?” Liesel queried. “I always forget the name.”

“It is called a “Horse’s Neck,” I chuckled lightly.

“Let’s try a couple,” Liesel excitedly handed me a highball glass.

“But that my friends, is another story …”

Vodka’s Versatility

I love living in Europe, and I especially enjoy traveling about the continent by rail. However, train travel does have its drawbacks. For one, it can get monotonous. Then again, popping open a bottle of wine is a most welcome way to pass the time. 

My last article was on Orange wines. I was en route to Slovenia to buy some amber vino for a client. Considering he has 35 retail outlets, I decided to start my homework a bit early. So what is on my mind today as I venture to the Baltic States? What else, vodka.

Between the last two stops I read a most entertaining article on “The Daily Green” that I will share with my readers.

Historians are quite sure that vodka has been with us, at least since Medieval times. Insomuch as its earliest inception, vodka has not only been imbibed, it was often used for digestive and medicinal purposes.

 Today, vodka has achieved international notoriety as the world’s most popular spirit. But did you know that the versatility of vodka is virtually limitless? Let’s take a look at some of the more fun and usual ways to make vodka work for you.

1.     Treat Poison Ivy- I have been told that immediately applying vodka to the afflicted area dramatically reduces, and often alleviates any further itching. Do keep in mind that 100 proof is deemed preferential due to the higher alcohol content. And why not? When I was a young US Marine and were traipsing around the jungles of Southeast Asia; our corpsman, “Doc Harry,” as he was affectionately known, often used an Undecylenic acid to treat most outbreaks of rash. Pity Doc Harry chose to treat antifungals with a liquid that is castor oil based. I’m sure that a vodka treatment would have been more fun. And if it did not relieve the itching, I’m sure that by drinking enough vodka, we would have forgotten the irritation. 

2.     Freshen Laundry- Now that we know vodka kills bacteria, we can use it to freshen our clothes and remove spots. Rest assured that clothing doused with vodka, when left to dry leaves no scent.

3.     Shine House Fixtures- Would you believe vodka is great when it comes to cleaning chrome, porcelain, and glass. Just rub in a bit with a moist cloth for that long lasting shine.

4.     Preserve Flowers- Just add a few drops of vodka and a teaspoon of sugar to the water within your flower vase. For best results, change water daily and once again add some vodka and sugar. Your flowers are sure to thrive and last longer.

5.     Repel Insects- Vodka is also a great repellent against annoying insects. To thwart the pests, just add a dash of vodka to a spray bottle with some water and spray yourself generously. Remember once dry, vodka leaves no odor.

6.     Soothe Jellyfish Stings- We all know that a healthy dose of urine is a popular way to treat jellyfish stings. Vodka is just as effective, and a less humiliating disinfectant overall. Think back to that episode of “Friends” when Monica suffered a jellyfish sting. If only Chandler and Joey had a bottle of vodka.

7.     Adds Shine to Hair- Anyone who is as vain about their hair as am I, is more than likely aware of a “vodka conditioner.” For lustrous hair, just add a jigger of vodka to a 12-ounce bottle of shampoo.

8.     Clean Away Mold- Since vodka kills germs, we can use it in a multitude of ways to clean. Rather than use harsh chemicals in your newly remodeled kitchen. Pour some vodka in a spray bottle and give your counters a good spritz. Use a little elbow grease as you wipe down for best results. For those troubled areas, spray with vodka, and let sit for a good 15 minutes. Take an old toothbrush and scrub away your troubles.

9.     Make a Soothing Lavender Tincture- Fill a jar with lavender flowers and top off with vodka. Seal the lid tightly and place in the sun for three days. Strain the resulting liquid through a coffee filter and you are left with a homemade remedy to rub into all of your aches and pains.

10.  Since living in Eastern Europe I have learned a simple, yet most effective remedy for temporary toothache relief. Swill a shot of vodka over gums while focusing on the infected area. This will aid in disinfecting and numbing the pain in your gums.

*Initially I set out to entertain my audience with these simple remedies. Upon reflection, vodka is definitely less toxic than most of the chemicals that we use in our daily lives. Nevertheless, I still prefer to drink my vodka.

“Conductor, vodka martini, very dry and with a slice of lemon peel,” I thought for a moment. “Better make it a double, just in case I make a spill.”  But that my friends … is a different story … 

Quality Wines from Turkey?

I know you probably thought that there is no such thing as a quality wine from Turkey. Turkey is famous for it’s Raki, kebabs, baklava, and smoking Hookah pipes. Today I am in Istanbul with my friend and fellow sommelier, Dilara Yilmaz. We will be sharing some wonderful wines that are readily available in the States.

“Gregory, I would like to begin by saying that we Turks have been producing exceptional wines since antiquity. The Hittites were known for their wines and popularized them throughout the Mediterranean world,” Dilara paused for effect. “Turkey is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world.”

“I was quite surprised when I first learned that there are more than 600 indigenous wine varietals in Turkey.”

“It depends on who you ask,” she flashed me an even grin. “I believe that number can be doubled.”

“Perhaps,” my response was flat and without emotion. “There are only 60 grape varietals that are available commercially so this is where we will start.”

Our table had been set with an assortment of mezes, hamsi, a Black Sea anchovy, kebabs, olives, rice, baklava, and local honey.

“A meal for a the Hittite king, Hatusili,” I nodded my approval.

“I am also quite sure that our first wine will also meet with your approval.” Dilara presented me with a bottle of 2003 Kavaklidere Okuzgozu d’ Elazig.

The standards for Turkish wines were set in the mid-1900s by the Kavaklidere and Doluca vineyards. These vineyards are located in the eastern part of the Anatolian plateau. The name for the Okuzgozu grape means “ox eye” in Turkish.

“Serefe,” we toasted each other.

Our first wine was totally different from what I had expected. There were bright cherry aromas. The flavor was crisp and slightly tart with a mild finish. Much lighter than what I had expected.

Dilara sensed that I was mildly amused and poured me another glass. I like this light wine very much,” she smiled. “It is slightly reminiscent of a yellow Merlot.”

“I was expecting a much bolder wine,” I paused as I savored the Okuzgozu. “Something like a Spanish red.”

“Interesting, Dilara smiled softly. “Okuzgozu pairs perfectly with Turkish cuisine.”

“Indeed it does,” I nodded in approval. “I would have thought that with the robust cuisine of the area, our meal would call for a more full-bodied wine.”

“Okuzgozu is a distinct grape with different characteristics,” Dilara assured me. “It is a wine befitting Turkey. A wine that is apropos for a land that lies at the crossroads of East and West.”

“What is our next selection?”

Dilara flashed me a wide beaming grin. “A 2007 Doluca Kalecik Karasi.”

This wine emphasizes the unique characteristics of the Kalecik Karasi grapes. The varietal is quite fruity and a favorite among the Anatolian grapes. I found our Doluca to be easy to drink, smooth, and medium-bodied.

“Yes, a very easy wine to drink. I also find the Kalecik Karasi to be the most aromatic of Doluca’s wines.”

“I agree,” pausing to savor the wine. “Kalecik Karasi invokes the aromas of figs, roses, and strawberries. Indeed a very charming wine.”

“I would recommend this wine with most grilled, steamed, or creamy-sauced fish dishes,” she paused for my response.

“Yes, of course, “ I nodded in approval. “Grilled or roasted white meat with a cream sauce would also pair nicely.”

“I would also serve this wine at about 60 degrees fahrenheit,” Dilara paused to collect her thoughts. “I would also recommend decanting the wine about 30 minutes prior to serving.”

“Nicely done,” I was most pleased with her assessment of the Doluca Kalecik Karasi. “What is next?’

“A real throat burner,” Dilara seemed quite amused with herself. “I have selected a Bogazkere. The name translates as ‘throat burner’ in Turkish.”

I quickly surveyed the botltle of 2008 Pendore Bogazkere (Bow-aahz-keh-reh), and nodded my approval. “An excellent choice.”

Dilara smiled enthusiastically. “I know you are fond of Tannat and I believe you will find Bogazkere somewhat reminiscent.”

On the nose our Pendore Bogazkere was rich with the pleasing aromas of black cherry, raspberry, blackberry, black mulberry, pepper, cloves, eucalyptus, tobacco, leather, pine forest, dark chocolate, and licorice. The wine itself was very dark in color, full-bodied, dense tannins and a complex flavor profile. “I think that our Bogazkere would do nicely with a bit of age.”

“I agree,” Dilara replied flatly. “Wines from the Bogazkere  strike a nice balance with a bit of aging.”

“I would pair this wine with spicy meat dishes, kebabs, and BBQs.”

“Have you had our local speciality, Tandir?” Dilara queried.

“I love slow roasted lamb.”

“Bogazkere goes nicely with Tandir,” She smiled widely. “I also enjoy this wine with intensely flavored cheese.”

“Now there’s a thought,” I grinned with anticipation.

“Flavored cheese?”

“Nope. I was thinking more of slow roasted lamb.”

Leb-l Derya Restaurant,” we laughed in unison.”

“But that my friends is another story …