What Wines Pair Best with Oysters?

I was inspired to say a few words on what wines pair best with “The Pearl of the Sea.” One does not have to be a sommelier, or James Bond, to know the classic pairing to be with Champagne. And it seems with agent 007, the only question was the year of the Champagne. There are a couple of things to keep in mind if you decide to make your wine selection Champagne.

The first is to chill to perfection. It is imperative that both the Champagne and oysters are chilled properly. The crisp fizziness of the wine works well to bring out the flavor of oysters. Champagnes nicely cut through the briny richness of oysters while enhancing their more subtle flavors. The next point I would make is that the Champagne must be one with a high blend of Chardonnay. For my palate, I would go with a Taittinger Brut La Francaise.  The wine has a nice balance of stone fruit and crisp hints of bread crusts that is guaranteed to explode your taste buds for only $50 a bottle. The alcohol content is 12.3%.

Too Bond for you? You need a bit of Pinot Noir to balance your palate? Just be careful not you over power. I would recommend a La Demoiselle Tete de Cuvee. The bouquet is dominated by Pinot Noir. There are flavors of buttered toast, apples, with the slight flavor of chanterelle mushroom. This vinous and potent Champagne is sure to please even the most discerning of palates. With an alcohol content of 12%, it is an excellent buy at $40 a bottle.

Dry white wines such as Chardonnay, with its lemony tartness, and lightness, will best complement the meal. If you decide to forgo the classic pairing with Champagne with your oysters, I would recommend a Pouilly Fuisse. Louis Jadot is a popular favorite. It is a wine of finesse and distinction. The wine’s fresh and harmonious flavors of grapefruit and lemon, along with subtle hints of hazelnut, are sure to entice the palate. A sure bet at only $25 a bottle. Caution alert! Stay away from most Chardonnay from California and Australia. The growing regions in these countries are much warmer than France, and the wines being produced are not as astringent or delicate, and not at all appropriate when served with oysters.

With this in mind, Sauvignon Blanc, with its tarter edge and lighter qualities, is a more than a viable selection. Regardless of the wine growing region, Sauvignon Blanc, forgive the pun, is the wine for all seasons. At least when paired with oysters. With its stark minerality, crisp fruit, and the slightest hint of anise, a newer wine like a Pascal Jolivet Sancerre 2009, is the ideal complement. It is a steal at only $25 a bottle.

Contrary to popular opinion, not all oysters taste alike. This is where geography comes into play. A lot has to do with the waters from which the oyster is harvested. The result is some oysters are brinier, while others have a creamy texture, some are leaner, and others fatter. In the States, when selecting a wine to pair with oysters, you need to be aware location, location, location. Most of our oysters come from East Coast, Gulf Coast, and our Northwest Coast.

Be bold and experiment with your pairings. With oysters from the East Coast, which are leaner, moderately briny, and salty, try a German Riesling. Though not as dry as a Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling’s can retain a zesty, mineral flavor. Typically the alcohol content on these wines is 9-11% and light on the palate. Due to their natural lemon-lime acidity, pairing with a Riesling will result in a sweetening of the oyster. At only $40 a bottle, a Prinz Salm Grunnshiefer Riesling Trocken 2010 is quite a gem. This redolent wine is lightly perfumed and floral, yet intense with citrus flavors and feeling of wet stones on the palate. The alcohol content is 12%.

The waters off the Northwest coasts of Canada and the U.S. are an oyster lover’s paradise. The region produces nothing but the broadest, roundest, fruitiest, fleshiest, and creamy textured oysters. For these types of oysters, I’d go with a Vouvray Les Argiles 2011, a great French wine at $30 a bottle. Fritsch Gruner Veltliner Schlossberg 2011 from Austria is a good buy at only $25 a bottle. An Italian Pinot Grigio is a nice pairing. Borgo Reale Toscana IGT 2007 is an excellent selection and only $25 a bottle.

When ordering smaller oysters like Kumamotos, stay with wines that are light and lemony. An Italian Gavi from Piedmont, a 2010 Coppo La Rocca immediately comes to mind. This bold wine works nicely with Kumamoto oysters and is only $20 a bottle. Grechetto from Umbria is a particular favorite. It is a surprisingly versatile white wine. A 2011 Grecante Grechetto from Arnaldi-Capri is priced at only $20 a bottle. Let’s not forget Vinho Verde from Portugal. This underappreciated wine is not just for summer. A 2012 Casa de Senra Loureiro is only $15 a bottle and is an ideal pairing.

With regard to oysters from the warmer Gulf Coast, they have a muddy or swampy quality. These oysters tend to be lean and duller in character and show best when cooked. Depending on the seasonings and sauces, I often pair oysters from the Gulf with a nice Viognier that is slightly oaked. The wine’s extraordinary combination of perfume, body, and intensity, will balance out the muddy and swampy tastes on the palate. My preference would be 2010 Andre Perret Condrieu Cotu du Chery. It is a bit pricey at $70 a bottle, but well worth the investment. If price is an issue, try a Viognier from Languedoc. My recommendation would be a 2010 Laurent Miquel Cuvee Verite, and at $25 a bottle, a very viable alternative to a Rhone wine.  Do keep in mind that should you choose a Viognier, make sure the alcohol content is under 12.5%. I have found that wines that are top-heavy will over power and taste too alcoholic.

Is there any truth to the old adage of eating oysters in months ending in the letter “R”? This comes from the days before refrigeration when oysters could quickly spoil. With the exception of Gulfwater oysters, which spawn year-round, all other oysters spawn during the warm summer months. There is a school of that oysters spawned out of season are simply not as flavorful.

It is also quite trendy in spring to pair oysters with a Martini. Here the thought is to help the delicate flavor of oysters to shine. Vodka or gin?

The herbal floral notes of a Dirty Martini consisting of gin, is a suitable pairing to draw out the oyster’s complexity of flavors.

Should I decide to pair my oysters with a Martini, my choice would clearly be vodka. I prefer the clean and smooth taste of vodka to enhance the uniqueness of oysters.

The only question would then be what is James Bond’s preference in a Martini when enjoying oysters on the half-shell?

“But that my friends, is a different story …”

Pairing Cuban Cigars with Coffee, Wine, and Spirits

The Premier Palace is indeed one of Kyiv’s finest Hotels. Exuding all of the wealth and opulence that is royalty, the hotel was once the home of Prince Dimitri Zhevakhov. In essence and in atmosphere, the Premier Palace is inseparably connected to the history of Kyiv.

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Nadiya Moroz. We are also joined by my best friend and Barista, John Sherer. Nadiya is visiting from Dnepropetrovsk and John is visiting from Long Beach, California. We have come together to hold a very special tasting and will be pairing cigars with coffee, wine, and spirits.

Over the years, enjoying a good Cuban cigar after dinner has become all the rage in Kyiv. We have decided to hold our tasting in the Cigar Room of the hotel’s elegant Terracotta Restaurant. The Cigar Room has a serene affluence all its own. It is the perfect setting to enjoy a drink, a smoke, and the company of good friends.

“Gregory, knowing you do not smoke,” Nadiya paused to contain her laughter. “When you first suggested including cigars, I was a bit puzzled.”

“I’ll second that,” John was quick to agree. “Will you be joining us in a Cuban?

“I’ll just breathe the air,” I chuckled softly. Turning to Nadiya I offered to light her cigar.

“I think we should first cover the cutting and lighting of a cigar,” she politely waived me off.

Both Nadiya and John began with:

1. The Proper Cut. I learned that a cigar should be cut just above the cap line. The goal is to create an aperture to ensure a smooth stream of smoke. For best results, Nadiya recommended a double-bladed cutter, while John opted for the single blade.

2. The Pierce. A small hole is punched in the end of the cigar. The idea is to produce a concentrated stream of smoke that hits the tongue.

3. The Guillotine Cut. This is a straight-across slice with a razor-sharp cutter. The result is a clean, open drawing area to avoid bite. John also added that this was the preferred type of cut in the States.

4. The “Y” Cut. This allows for ample air circulation and keeps the bitter tars away from the tongue. Nadiya added that this was the preference for most Europeans.

Next I learned the ritual of lighting a cigar. In order to best enjoy a cigar, always use a  butane lighter, or a cedar or wood match stick. Take care to light the cigar properly, and with the utmost patience. A badly lit cigar is sure to ruin the experience.

Another important point is warming the cigar. It needs to be held at a 90 degree angle above the flame. Slowly rotate the cigar until all parts have been evenly charred. Next, place the cigar to your lips and puff gently as you continue to rotate the cigar while blowing. This will ensure an even burn.

As for ashing the cigar, John was quick to point out to never tap on the ashtray as with a cigarette. It is preferred to carefully roll the ash off using the edge of the ashtray.

“Shall we begin?” John queried.

Nadiya had selected a small cigar. This type of cigar is ideal for a 20 minute smoke. Montecristo was her cigar of choice. The famous Cuban family is renown worldwide for their excellence in cigar making. The Mini is a luscious cigar that has all the spiciness one expects from a Montecristo. A box of 50 cigars is reasonably priced at $55.

“I often enjoy a good Malbec from Argentina with a Montecristo,” Nadiya swirled her wine as she spoke.

“Mendoza Valley?” I queried.

“But of course,” she said with an alluring smile.  A nicely balanced Malbec, with just enough spiciness, works together with an earthy cigar.”

“As for coffee, John began. “I’d go with a Guatemalan. This style of coffee has smooth acidity and a smoky tobacco aroma. Coffee from Guatemala works nicely to bring out the cigar’s spicy aromas.”

“I would go with dark rum to pair with the Montecristo. Dark rums are meant to be enjoyed neat. Since the cigar has some sweetness to it, the molasses from the rum will not over power, and will serve as a compliment.”

“Anyone who is new to cigar smoking might also want to try a Cohiba,” Nadiya was quick to add. “It has an intoxicating allure that is sure to entice you to hours of smoking pleasure. A box of 100 sells for $150.”

“A Cohiba calls for what type of wine?” I queried.

“To enhance the cigar’s full-flavored qualities, I would recommend a Pinot Noir. The wine’s smoky flavors pair nicely with cigars,” Nadiya said with a smile.

“As for coffee,” John paused to collect his thoughts. “I’d select an organic Colombian. I prefer the organic because it is mildly acidic. The body is creamy with hints of plum, yet a slight pepperiness for zest.”

“With that in mind,” I paused lightly. A good Brandy with hints of dry fruit flavors of dates, figs, and prunes would be the perfect match,” I concluded.

“If we are talking smalls,” John broke in. “I would recommend a Patargas. Not only does it have character, it is very satisfying and reasonably priced. A box of 100 is priced at $100.”

“Nice selection,” Nadiya smiled softly. “I would pair a Patargas with a good vintage port. A mature port is ideal in that it smooths out and balances the cigar’s tobacco blend.”

“A Nicaraguan coffee would pair nicely. Coffees from this area have gentle cacao hints with fruit nuances,” John clearly showed his excitement. “I especially like the powerful finish which will also enhance the character of a Patargas.”

“A small batch Bourbon immediately comes to mind. The whiskey’s complexities, along with its subtle wood hints, will add to the character and slight spiciness of the tobacco.”

As for John’s personal selection, he decided on a Cuban legend. Saint Luis Rey Lonsdale. The production year of his cigar was 2002. This is a vintage cigar that is filled with all the subtleties and nuances preferred by the experienced palate. The Saint Luis Rey is the essence of what makes Cuban cigars so special. It is a rich blend of fine tobacco that has a strong body, with hints of honey, and floral sweetness. The Saint Luis Rey is most definitely the Cuban cigar for the true aficiondo. A box of 50 cigars is priced at $675.

“For such a cigar I would recommend a classic Bordeaux. A wine that is filled with a complex array of aromas will adeptly enhance the cigar’s rich blend of tobacco,” Nadiya moistened her lips with anticipation.

“When I enjoy a vintage cigar,” John smiled in fond reflection.” I always select a Cuban coffee. With a Saint Luis Rey Lonsdale, my choice would be a Santiago. This is an exotic style of Cuban coffee. It is smooth, buttery, pleasantly sweet, and the perfect companion for this type of cigar.”

“Such a vintage cigar calls for an equally distinct Single Malt Scotch,” I said flatly. “A peaty whiskey that is complex, and with a plethora of nuances, would serve well to round out the entire experience.”

If you are not willing to take on the extravagance and expense of a vintage cigar, John was quick to recommend a Montecristo No.5 It is filled with cedary and oaky flavors with notes of dark espresso, and just a touch of sweetness. A box of 25 cigars retails for $150.

“I would pair with an elegant Tempranillo,” Nadiya paused to collect her thoughts. “The wine’s red fruits interact perfectly with cigars.

“My choice for coffee would be from Kenya. The coffee is filled with herbal juiciness that brings out the cigars woody and nutty qualities.

“With a Montecristo, my preference in a spirit would be Cognac, VSOP and XO,” I paused lightly. “These styles of Cognac best compliment the wood and smokiness of the cigar.”

“John” Nadiya called for his attention. “I am just curious, you are primarily a Costa Rican coffee buyer, yet you did not recommend this type of coffee with any of the cigars.”

“Costa Rican coffees are perfectly suited for cakes and pastries. The coffees are big-bodied and grandly acidic. Such a sophisticated coffee would clash with cigars as opposed to enhancing the smoking experience.”

“Greg,” John called for my attention. “Keeping in mind your penchant for Indonesian coffee, I recommend you try a Bolivar Royal. It is a Robusto cigar with floral aromas of Asian spices that will satisfy the most exotic of palates.”

“But that my friends …. Is another story.”

Pairing Coffee and Wine

For most sommeliers, the pairing of food and wine is not only an art, it is a required staple. When pairing food, wine, and coffee, we open the door to an innovative and exciting experience that is a sure-fire way to excite and stimulate the taste buds. Join me for a look of what lies on the other side of the looking glass, for a new and invigorating experience in the world of gastronome.

In the first article of this series we started our day with breakfast and the ideal coffees to pair with our meals. Now as we move on to our midday meal, let’s explore how to further enhance our dining pleasure.

In Most of Europe, what we Americans refer to as lunch, Europeans call dinner. Time and care is taken in the afternoon to break from work, and rejuvenate the body, mind, and spirit. In fact, for many, this is the most important meal of the day. With this in mind, you won’t find many Europeans making a mad dash for the nearest fast food drive-thru.

First and foremost, coffee like wine brings out the flavors in savory foods. It only makes sense then that they are quite a natural pair. Let’s begin by looking at some of the similarities between coffee and wine. Much like wine, the terroir, growing, harvesting, and processing of coffee is a skilled-craft, undertaken by only select artisans. These factors combined, influence the flavor profile and complexity of coffee. When pairing with food and wine, it is imperative to understand the undertones and complimentary flavors of coffee. Remember, our overall objective is to excite the palate.

Our perception of flavor is directly related to our sense of smell. Taking note of the initial aroma is critical in properly experiencing the full taste of both coffee and wine.

When tasting either coffee or wine, it is imperative to take not of the acidity of each. Coffee or wine that is highly acidic is described as crisp, tangy, and bright. While those coffees and wines with low acidity, are described as smooth and easy to drink.

The feel of coffee or wine on the tongue is known as the body. Both coffee and wine can be described as light, medium, or full.

Now that we have an idea how coffee and wine are similar in character, let’s take a look at how they enhance each other. I’m sure you will enjoy this innovative twist.

Did you know that sniffing coffee granules in between courses actually acts as a palate cleanser? The rich aromas of coffee actually excite and stimulate our senses. In fact, when we combine coffee and wine with our meals, in actuality we are pleasurably assaulting our taste buds. In essence, a true taste explosion.

One thing that I have learned over the years is that by drinking coffee with our meals, we help to reduce the potency of the effects of alcohol. Caffeine aids in kick-starting a listless digestive system and speed up the metabolism of fats. A word of caution, caffeine does indeed cause dehydration, so ensure that you also enjoy plenty of water with your meal.

Let’s start with a Gouda Cheese. Soft cheeses with a mild-strong flavor pair best with white wines. For my palate, a crisp Riesling is the perfect choice. This is because Riesling is mildly sweet in flavor, with citrus undertones. This perfectly balances the distinct and slightly tangy flavor of Gouda Cheese. Now that we have selected our wine, what about the coffee? A Colombian blend seems in order.  This style of coffee is smooth, yet utterly complex, dark, robust, and rich. The mild flavor of Gouda will also help to bring out the layers of flavor and the subtle sweetness to the coffee.

When starting a meal with a salad, selecting the right coffee can either make or break the meal. Say you have decided on a vegetable and herb salad with a light oil dressing, a Pinot-Gris is the perfect accompaniment. The wine’s peach, pear, and herbal notes enhance both the salad’s fresh vegetables and herbs. For our coffee selection, my preference would be Kenyan. This style of coffee is full-bodied in flavor with low acidity, and the currant and grapefruit hints bring out the best in fresh vegetables.

One of my favorite dishes is Paella de Marisco. Paella is considered by many to be Spain’s national dish, and Seafood Paella is indeed my favorite. For me, the obvious choice in a wine is Albarino. It is light in body, searing acidity, and intense minerality all serve to brilliantly enhance the amazing blend of seafood, vegetables, herbs, spices, and rice. Personally, I wouldn’t dream of eating Paella without serving Albarino. For my palate, it is one of the most natural of food and wine pairings. As for coffee, let’s keep with tradition. A Spanish roast (dark) is the best accompaniment to bring out the variety of textures, flavors, spices, and herbs in a Seafood Paella.

Foccacia (spicy Italian sausage flatbread), or pizza both pair nicely with an Italian Primitivo, or a California Zinfandel. For such a treat, we need a wine with zesty flavor. Both Primitivo and Zinfandel are filled with notes of berries, licorice, and a distinct peppery richness. Due to its moderate acidity, the robust flavor of this style of red wine perfectly accents bold foods with a spicy sweetness. As for coffee, here I would go with a Sumatra. This style of Indonesian coffee has virtually no acidity. It is intensely aromatic, earthy, and the herbal notes linger on the tongue. The added plus is that the bold flavors of the coffee stand up to the robust flavors of Italian sausage without overshadowing its hints of sage and spices.

It is only fitting that we make time for dessert. How about a Chocolate Tiramisu? Strong flavors of dark chocolate are best accompanied by equally strong, full-bodied wines. Cabernet Sauvignon immediately comes to mind. The intense flavors with notes of dark fruits provide a good contrast to the sweet and slightly bitter taste of rich dark chocolate. For coffee, my preference would be an Italian Roast. The coffee has a slight sweetness resulting from the dark roasting process. When coffee beans are richly roasted, they prove to be a wonderful match for most chocolate desserts.

So the next time you are hungry, instead of making a mad dash for your car and the nearest fast food joint, why not take a leisurely stroll to the corner café. Have a seat, and while you relax and ruminate over the menu, enjoy a refreshing cup of coffee. Why not bring your senses to life as you enjoy a well-prepared meal. After all, what could be better than coffee, food, and wine?

“That my friends … is another story!”

Pairing Coffee with Breakfast Foods

Like most Americans, I greet each day with a cup or two of coffee. I enjoy my morning ritual of selecting an exotic coffee from some far away land. As we have already discussed in a previous article, my favorite coffees hail from Indonesia. I also love Hawaiian coffees with almost equal fervor. Whether your choice is from Brazil, Burundi, or the Galapagos Islands, coffee is a beverage enjoyed throughout the world.

With this popularity in mind, why don’t more people know how to pair a good cup of Joe with their meals? One reason perhaps, is that most people give little thought when it comes to the coffees served in restaurants. How many times have you questioned the server and asked if the coffee being served is from Costa Rica, Ethiopia, or Jamaica? Perhaps a coffee menu is in order. Why not? Most restaurants offer wine, beer, and beverage lists.

Truth be told, most restaurants buy their coffee in bulk. This does not mean that the quality is not there, it just means selection has been omitted. Unfortunately, for most people, coffee is simply an afterthought.

This is the first in a three-part article that will cover pairing coffee with various meals and snacks. Let’s start with breakfast, and take a look at some classic coffee pairings. First up, fresh fruits and fruit based pastries.

Most berries pair ideally with coffees from Kenya or Haiti. These acidic coffees light up the fruit flavors,  and add complexity to the flavor profile. I particularly enjoy blueberries and have found that coffees from Jamaica or Yemen better bring out the flavors of the slightly tart fruit.

As for stone fruits such as apricots, peaches, and plums, coffees from Haiti and Tanzania work well in tandem to bring out their fruit flavors. These coffees are typically bright and lively and wake up the taste buds.

Many of us often enjoy fruit tarts to start our day. Here, I would recommend medium to dark roast coffees from Brazil or Costa Rica. These coffees not only enhance, they balance and round out the flavor of fruit tarts.

For those with a sweeter tooth, and enjoy chocolate with their coffee; Lattes, Mochas, and Ristrettos, are the perfect match. Full-bodied coffees from Guatemala or Indonesia are the ideal choices for dark-chocolate brownies and chocolate cake. However, with chocolate cupcakes, I would go with a Colombian coffee to arouse the palate.

Many Americans are quick to reach for such morning standards as donuts or muffins. My pick is a smooth, sweet Costa Rican coffee when pairing with donuts. I also feel Costa Rican coffees pair nicely with muffins. I know my best friend and barista, John Sherer, can’t start his day without a muffin and 20 ounces of coffee. His preference is Mexican. He claims it jump starts his palate with its bright acidity and nutty qualities.

What about cinnamon buns and coffee cake? Coffees from Colombia and Guatemala are an excellent pairing with cinnamon buns. Their bright cup character, floral hints, and clean aftertaste naturally bring out the bun’s caramel and chocolate notes.

When it comes to coffee cake and Danishes, most coffees pair nicely. My preference is a light to medium roast coffee from Hawaii. Kauai is a perfect example in that its flavors accompany rather than over power.

What about croissants and scones? For me, there is only one choice to pair with a croissant. Take a cue from the French and go with a Café Au Lait. Who said scones only pair with tea? Several of my Aussie coffee drinking mates swear by enjoying their fruit scones with coffees from Haiti, Kenya, or Yemen. These coffees are not subtle or delicate. On the contrary, they are rich and full of flavor.

Chocolate dipped fruits are always popular, and my recommendation is most African coffees. They tend to bring out the fruit’s citrus qualities. If the chocolate is on the tart side, an Ethiopian coffee immediately comes to mind. Its floral notes tend to smooth out the tartness of some chocolates.

Let’s not forget white chocolate. With its milder flavor, white chocolate is at its best when paired with coffees from Colombia, Costa, Rica, and Yemen. These coffees are nicely balanced and their nutty qualities nicely enhance white chocolate.

Since I live in Europe, I know what most of my Italian friends are thinking … what about biscotti? A full-flavored biscotti pairs best with espresso. When skillfully prepared, espresso is rich and vibrant, and a sure way to enliven the day.

Now that we’ve covered our morning sweet tooth, let’s take a look at some typical breakfast pairings. Typically, the light and balanced flavors of Central American coffees are the ideal choice for many breakfast foods. However, I like to perk up my day with a bit of creativity.

The classic American breakfast of eggs, bacon or sausage, and wheat toast. A medium roast Costa Rican coffee is the perfect pairing. Wheat toast on its own, pairs nicely with light or medium roast coffee from Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, or Guatemala will satisfy those who eat light, and perhaps watching their weight. This was my mother’s morning ritual. As a former dancer, she was forever paying particular attention to her waistline.

Another breakfast favorite is the omelet. Since a variety of ingredients such as mushrooms, basil, chevre, the list is endless; I feel only an Indonesian coffee from Java and Sumatra can handle such full and savory flavors.

Another popular egg dish is quiche. Yes, real men eat quiche and we love it. Once again, with the variety of savory ingredients, coffees from Indonesia best enhance the meal.

Crepes and pancakes are often breakfast standards. I often pair my crepe dishes with coffees from Hawaii. Kona is a particular favorite in that, though bold, it compliments rather than over power the dish. Pancakes served with maple syrup is a classic breakfast. Once again Kona coffee is an ideal accompaniment. I would also recommend coffee from Nicaragua. Coffees from the part of Central America pair wonderfully with pastry flavors.

Lastly, for those who prefer a light breakfast such as oatmeal, both Kona and Nicaraguan coffees are the ideal selection to round out the meal.

Breakfast in considered our most important meal of the day and it literally means to “break the fast.” Most nutritionists feel that what we eat for breakfast, affects what we will eat the rest of the day. A well- balanced meal supplies adequate amounts of protein, carbohydrate, and fiber. My point is to stop eating on the run. Take time to enjoy the morning and enhance breakfast with a savory cup of coffee.

When we continue with our next article in pairing coffee with our meals, we will add a bit of wine to the menu … “But that my friends, is a different story …”