German Red Wines?

Red wines from Germany? Isn’t it too cool there, even for Pinot Noir? Not at all. In fact German red wines and not only thriving, they are becoming very popular throughout the world. Back in the 1980’s, red grapes accounted for only 12 per cent of Germany’s vineyards. Today, that number exceeds 36 per cent. The most notable of Germany’s red wines include, Trollinger, Blaufrankicsh, and Pinot Noir.

Today I am joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Liesel Braun. We are exploring the world of German red wines. Though beer is Germany’s national beverage, wine has definitely made its mark on the country’s social structure. Reds are not only gaining with the Germans, but the international market as well.

In Stuttgart, visit any wine bar or biergarten and you’ll be surprised to see Germans quaffing down bottles of a local wine known as Trollinger (traw-ling-ger). This grape grows primarily in the Wurttemberg region and the Swabians love it. What is most interesting about the appearance of Trollinger, it looks more like cherry kool-aid rather than a rare and unique wine. In Italy this grape is known as Schiava and in Austria, Vernatsch. However, neither country shares Germany’s enthusiasm for the grape. Truth be known, Wurttembergers drink it like water. It has also been documented to have been a particular favorite of Martin Luther.

Trollinger first came to Germany during Roman times. It is believed that its name is derived from “Tirol-linger” because it originated in Tirol, Italy. It is a late harvest wine and does not ripen until October. Served cold, Trollinger resembles a strong rose. It is a fresh and fruity wine with an odd, almost medicinal finish.

Our first selection was a Wuerttemberger Trollinger 2007. On the eye, it is a lovely dark rose color. The bouquet is fragrant with a light fruitiness. On the palate it is a light and lively wine with plenty acidity, it was a bit sweeter and with more residual sugar than I had expected. I found the finish on our Wuerttemberger Trollinger on the odd side and somewhat lacking. The alcohol content was 12.5% and a price tag of $22.

“Though this wine is well made, it is just not my palate,” Liesel paused to collect her thoughts. “As for pairing this wine, I would serve it with most anything that goes along with a rose.”

“Every festival I have attended in the Stuttgart region, where beer is the order of the day, Trollinger is seemingly being enjoyed by many,” My tone was one of amusement.

“I must admit that I do not share their enthusiasm,” Liesel shook her head in disdain. “Trollinger is not very tasty, and its popularity bewilders me. In fact, I think it should be blended. I am sure that the result would be a much better wine.”

Blauer Limberger, also known as Blaufrankisch or Lemberger, thrives along the lower stretches of the Danube River. Typically the wines are extremely dark in color. Being a late-ripening variety, it is rich in tannin with a spicy pronounced character. On the nose there are aromas of dark ripe cherries and dark berries. On the palate, it is often silky with spice flavors, boysenberry, and blackberry. Young wines are deeply fruity and become more velvety and complex with age. The finish is long and fruit accented. Lemberger wine can best be categorized as between pinot noir and syrah. Germans are quick to repute that Lemberger was quite popular with both Napoleon Bonaparte and Otto von Bismarck.

Our next selection was a Grafen Neipperg 2008 Lemberger. This is a ruby red wine. It is charming in character, showing bright red fruit aromas of cherry and blackberries. On the palate, there is a good concentration of red berry fruit and well-balanced tannins. The finish proved to be long and fruity. The alcohol content is 13% and a price tag of $23. On a historical note, the counts of Neipperg have cultivated vines for over 700 years in the wine-growing region of Wurttemberg. Hereditary count, Karl Eugen, has been responsible for the wine estate since 1984.

“I like this wine very much,” Liesel’s eyes crinkled softly as she began to smile. “I am also positive that with a bit of aging, Lemberger meets with your palate.”

“It does indeed. I very much like our Grafen Neipperg,” I gave her a quick wink. Perhaps we should call on the count and share our praise.”

“Prost!” We both erupted euphorically.

“This is definitely a food wine. I would serve it with blue or goat cheese. Pasta and red sauces would also go nicely. “Liesel, with what foods would you pair this Lemberger?” I queried.

“Roasted lamb or wild game,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “I think a nice roasted hare would go over nicely.”

Our next wine comes as a bit of a surprise. In Germany, Spatburgunder is to red wine, what Riesling is to white wine, the creme de la creme. This grape varietal is sensitive to climate and soil. It also needs warmth to thrive and ripens late. Sound familiar? If you recognized that Spatburgunder is the German equivalent to Pinot Noir, welcome to the head of the class.

Spatburgunder was brought to Germany from Burgundy as early as the 4th century. However, Spatburgunder differs from Pinot Noir. The intended result of Pinot Noir is to produce an elegant, velvety wine, with a distinctive bouquet of bitter almonds or blackberries. German Spratburgunder, in contrast, is lighter in color, body, and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates. Yet these wines have lost none of the character and appeal that is indicative of Pinot Noir. What German winemakers have essentially done is to take their understanding of cool climate viticulture, and produce some wines that rival even the most long established producers of Pinot Noir.

Our last selection was a Karl H. Johner Pinot Noir Enselberg 2008. On the eye, it is a pale cherry red color. The nose is filled with a concentration of cherry fruit, and notes of herbs and spices. Overall the bouquet is fragrant, and perfumed. On the palate, our Johner Pinot Noir is medium-bodied, taut, with black cherry undertones. There is also a piquant and spicy edge. Though “Old World” in style, there is just enough sweet fruit to satisfy one’s palate. The finish is silky, fluent, and pure.The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $35.

“I especially like the soft texture to this Pinot Noir,” Liesel eagerly shared her delight. “I would pair it with lighter style roasted game birds.”

“I found the bouquet a bit too perfumed,” I flashed Liesel a reassuring smile. “Overall, I was quite impressed and particularly liked the pepperiness of German style Pinot Noir.”

“Now our readers know that there is certainly more to German red wines other than Dornfelder,” Liesel chuckled softly.

“But that my friends is another story …”

Waltzing with Austrian Wines

The sheer elegance of Vienna’s Restaurant Imperial is awe inspiring. Peering around my opulent surroundings, I half anticipated a full orchestra playing a variety of popular waltzes. After all, Vienna is acclaimed as the “city of music.”

Today I am once again joined by my friends and fellow sommeliers, Annelle Koller and Clara Haas. Today we will be sampling some of Austria’s renown and most delectable wines.

“Ladies, what surprises do you have in store for us today,” I asked with anticipation.

We have three lovely wines from our indigenous grapes to share with our readers,” Annelle’s tone was almost whimsical.

The average wine consumer is most likely not aware that Austria produces brilliant, world class dry white wines. They are often made from Riesling and the hardy Gruner Veltliner grape which dominates the country’s viticultural regionsb. The wines produced have a reputation of being food-friendly and intended to be drunk young. Another reason that the average consumer may not yet be aware of Austrian wines is the country simply does not produce that much. Rest assured that Austria’s viticultural history dates back some 4,000 years.

Our first selection was a Geyerhof Gaisberg 1ste Lage 2010.

This wine is produced by the Geyerhof Winery of the Kremstal region. This area, south of the Danube, is one of Austria’s lesser known yet lush viticultural regions. This is definitely not your typical Gruner Vetliner. Although it is a dry wine, its richness gives it a pleasant sensation. Master wine maker, Ilse Maier has brought to life a delightful wine filled with white spices, honey, and fruit flavors. An overall intense wine at 13.5% alcohol.

“Mmm, I agree,” Clara said as she smacked her lips. “I especially like the crisp finish.”

“Very nice pineapple and ripe apricot fruit,” Annelle’s expression softened into a smile. “Nicely balanced.”

“A very poised wine indeed,” Clara was quick to add. “The way this wine is laced with minerals, I would pair our Gruner Veltliner with most white fish and pastas with white sauce.”

“Gregory,” Annelle called for my attention. You know Ilse Meir, yes?”

“We’ve met and I’ve visited the winery, but I do not know her as well either you or Clara. Perhaps my next trip we can travel to Kremstal and visit some of the local wineries.”

“I’d also like that very much,” Annelle gave me a reassuring smile. I know your proclivity for organic wines, so it would be well worth the trip,” Annelle said flatly.

Our next group of wines were equally as interesting and impressive. Two very popular Ice Wines, “Eiswein” in German. Ice Wine is a type of dessert wine. What makes Ice Wine unique, the wine has been produced from grapes that have been frozen while still on the vine. Since the sugars do not freeze, this allows for a more concerted and delightfully sweet wine. It is important to note that unlike Sauternes and Tokaji, Ice Wine grapes should not be affected by “Botrytis cinerea” the “noble rot.”

“Gregory,” Clara beckoned for my attention. “I have selected an excellent Eiswein to be tasted next. A Rosenhof Orion 2009. It is also of the Gruner Veltliner variety.”

This wine hails from Illmitz, Austria’s sweet wine paradise. It is crafted from grapes of the Burgenland, one of Rosenhof’s premier appellations. What is interesting about this wine is that the grapes have been picked at night. That is correct, under the stars, hence the name “Orion.”

“I like that our Orion features exceptionally complex fruit flavors,” Clara said with delight.

“This wine also pairs nicely with an assortment of cheeses,” Annelle smiled as she nibbled daintily at piece of Gouda cheese.

“Let’s not forget nuts,” I laughed heartily as I scooped up a good portion of macadamia nuts. “They bring out the wine’s apricot flavors.”

Our next wine was a Rosenhof Blaufrankisch Eiswein 2005.

This is a very special wine and an absolute rarity. The flavors of this rose wine made from Blaufrankisch grapes, is on the exotic side. Our 2005 had an intense fragrance and a flavor that awakens the senses.

“I also feel that the high level of acidity refreshes the palate and stimulates the appetite,” Clara paused to collect her thoughts as she swilled her wine. “If you serve it with toasted salty nuts, anchovies or black olives, the wine’s fruit flavors are enhanced by the salt.”

“I agree,” Annelle’s eyes crinkled into a smile. “I should think that an antipasto plate would go nicely.”

“Or even cold soup,” I said with a grin.

“Cold soup?” Both Clara and Annelle erupted euphorically.

“Since when do Americans eat cold soup,” Annelle struggled to contain herself.

“We don’t,” I struggled to keep my composure. “And you Europeans say we Americans do not understand irony.”

Austria is rapidly becoming a popular wine country and one of my favorites. Gruner Veltliner is gaining more of the attention it deserves. I love the fact that it produces expressive white wines which often have a distinct peppery character along with a subtle hint of honey and fruit. Wines that are food friendly and a capacity to age. As for the Ice Wines, very versatile. These wines can be served as an aperitif, during the main course, and as a dessert wine.

“Gregory,” Are you up for a new experience?” Annelle said with a wink.

“Surprise me,” I replied with anticipation.

“Heuriger,” Annelle playfully replied.

Sensing my bewilderment, Clara explained. “Heuriger is a tavern where wine-growers serve the most recent year’s wine and we are allowed to drink.”

“We can then experience Gemutlichkeit,” Annelle laughed softly.

“Gemutlichkeit?” I queried.

“This is a cheerful and complacent mood brought on by a most pleasant situation,” Annelle gently stroked the back of my hand.

“Gemutlichkeit it is,” My tone was now quite jovial. “But that my friends is another story …”

Italian White Wines to beat Those Summertime Blues

A few years ago, my favorite Russian pop singer, Zhanna Friske had a hit song entitled, “Somewhere it is Summer.” For those who have never traveled to the north of Russia, Finland, or Scandinavia, these peoples live for and worship the sun. For those of us living in more Mediterranean climates, we simply look for ways to beat the heat.

The best remedy I know for the summertime blues … wine. However, which wine would a be a more apropos question. We are all quick to reach for our favorite whites wines. Today I am going to challenge you to reach a little further, and try something new.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia lies in the northeastern region of Italy. Just south of Austria and west of Slovenia, one can find the widest array of white wines in fact, more than in any other part of the country. In this region of gentle rolling hills and alluvial soils, such indigenous grape varietals as Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Verduzzo abound.

Today we ventured to the renown mountain resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Italy’s most famous mountain destination is affectionately called “the Queen of the Dolomites. I am once again joined by long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. After a long day of hiking, we have returned to the town of Belluno for some wine and refreshment.

“Did you know that we Italians call Belluno “the Gateway to the Dolomites?” Serena smiled as she poured us each a glass of wine.

“It seems only fitting.”

Our first selection, Friulano is among Italy’s best white grapes. Serena selected a La Tenutade Angoris 2011. At first glance it is evident that this is a special wine. Our Friulano is a rich gold in color. On the nose, an intensity of peach and apricot opens the bouquet of this fragrant wine. On the palate, the rich stone fruit is supported by the wine’s overall density and creamy texture. The rich fruit eventually gives way to a silky finish. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“I love the beautiful white peach aromas,” Serena’s eyes brightened as she smiled. “This wine will go nicely with the steamed shellfish and seafood pasta that I ordered.”

“I should also think that it would equally pair as well with white meat.”

“For those who like aromatic wines,” Serena paused for effect. “Friulano is a must.”

Serena picked a Malvasia Istriana as our next selection. The varietal actually originates from the Croatia’s Istria Peninsula. Over the past few years, this popular grape has been planted in select regions of northeastern Italy. To date, they have shown great promise.

“It is believed that Malvasia first made its way into Italy via Venetian traders,” Serena paused to collect her thoughts. “It is not an easy grape to grow because it has large vigorous clusters, and yields must be controlled.”

Serena had selected a Sirch Malvasia 2011. On the eye it is light gold in color, reminding one of melon.The bouquet is of zesty citrus fruit, and on the palate, there is a most enjoyable crisp intensity. This is a very clean wine that is filled with bright notes of green melon and lime. The finish is also very clean and crisp. This is the perfect summer wine when lounging poolside or enjoying the view from the veranda. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $20.

“Definitely a wine to be shared with guests,” Serena smiled softly.

“What dishes pair best with this style of Malvasia?” I queried.

“Definitely grilled fish,” she paused on the moment. “I often serve Sirich Malvasia with brill flatfish baked with capers, olives, and cherry tomatoes.”

Our next selection hailed from Italy’s mountainous north. Pinot Bianco is clearly an expression of the Alpine breezes that have shaped and balanced a mildly fragrant wine. This is a grape that thrives in cool climates. Serena selected a Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2011. On the eye, it is a soft straw color. The nose is layered with pineapple, pear, melon, and a hint of exotic fruits. Our 2011 showed very nice structure. It is an elegant wine with fruity flavors that are a bit playful on the mouth. The finish shows good, and memorable length. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“I like to serve Pinot Bianco with Risotto with golden apples, and chopped pieces of pork,” Serena smiled brightly.

“I can see that,” I nodded in agreement. “The sweetness of the apple would nicely contrast the saltiness of the cured meat.”

Our last wine, Ribolla Gialla, enjoys an almost cult-like appeal with aficionados. Though popular today, Ribolla Gialla dates back to the 13th century. To add to the wine’s allure, vintners have conjured everything from light sparkling styles to thickly extracted whites that can be cellared for lengthy periods. On the one side, vintners produce acidic, easy-drinking wines that abound in flowers and citrus fruits. On the other end of the spectrum, vintners like Josko Gravner reign supreme. Truly the lord of the realm, Gravner is known to prefer the grape’s pulpy fruit and thick skins. Through long macerations and aging in clay amphorae, Gravner produces wines that are golden caramel in color and richly structured on the palate.

Serena selected a Gravner Amfora Ribolla Gialla 2005. On the eye, the wine’s striking copper-orange color heightens curi osity. There is an almost luminous brightness that defies the wine’s age. Gravner has chosen to mature his Ribolla Gialla in clay amphorae. On the nose there intense aromas of resin, pine nut, caramel, graham cracker, and candied fruit. It is rich, complex, and well-structured with a powerful fruit profile. The finish is long and memorable. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $120.

“I know you love Gravner’s wines,” Serena lightly stroked my arm. “His Ribolla Gialla is definitely your palate.”

“The 2005 is indeed a wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared another 10-20 years,” I paused for effect. “Gravner has produced a white wine that will eventually drink like a fine Barolo.”

“I especially love pairing Ribolla Gialla and pumpkin risotto with chopped rosemary sprinkled with shavings of smoked caciotta cheese,” Serena’s tone was one of great delight.

“Well, on that note,” I nodded in agreement. “Let’s order dinner.”

“But that my friends, is another story …”

Shaken, Not Stirred

The evening skyline of Los Angeles is most enchanting when viewed from the cliffs of Pacific Palisades; especially when in the company of an alluring woman. Let’s call her Jenny to protect the name of the guilty.
“Shall I make us a batch of martinis?” She queried with a fervent smile.
“Yes, of course,” I replied with a smile.
“Gin or vodka?” She asked.
“Vodka, always vodka,” I replied matter of factly.
“Don’t tell me, shaken not stirred,”
“Shaken.”
“But won’t that bruise the vodka?” Her tone was most indignant.

What then is the difference from the gin versus the vodka martini? Gin martinis should only be lightly stirred and with a wooden spoon. Shaking gin can release oils that taint the flavor of the cocktail. With vodka, there is no such release of oils in fact many mixologists recommend shaking cocktails made with vodka. Incidentally, the correct name for a vodka martini is a Bradford.

Keeping all of these factors in mind, is James Bond guilty of a major faux pas? Obviously the traditionalist would say that the suave and debonair secret agent does not know his cocktails. They would argue that if he did follow societal dictates, a martini is made with gin, and only gin.

Think back to Casino Royale when Bond first orders a martini.
“A dry martini, in a deep champagne goblet. Three measures of Gordon’s, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it is ice cold, then add a thin slice of lemon peel.”

Did 007 just break all the rules of making a martini, or did he create a new cocktail which came to be known as the “Vesper?” It seems that the latter is arguably the case since several of the revelers followed suite, and ordered the same drink.

This the leads us to another interesting question, why does Bond prefer his cocktail to be served ice – cold?
In Eastern Europe it is popular to serve vodka cold. This is because an inferior Vodka can have a bit of extra oil, especially those that have been distilled from potatoes. During Soviet times the market was flooded by a rash of inferior vodkas. Therefore it is only logical that shaking such cocktails as a martini would aid in the ridding of any negative taste. Tsar Peter the Great once said, “Potato vodka is for peasants. Grain vodka is for Tsars.”

Another question arises. Would the world wise agent 007 drink an inferior brand of vodka? Most likely not. Why then would a connoisseur such as James Bond have a penchant for his martinis to be served ice – cold? Who knows? One can only speculate. Perhaps a taste for chilled cocktails is a habit he learned on one of his many trips to the United States.

Well friends, it is now the cocktail hour and time for a martini. I prefer mine with 6 parts vodka, a splash of dry vermouth, shaken very well, and served with a thin slice of lemon peel.
But what happened with Jenny? “That my friends is another story….”

German Red Wines?

Red wines from Germany? Isn’t it too cool there, even for Pinot Noir? Not at all. In fact German red wines and not only thriving, they are becoming very popular throughout the world. Back in the 1980’s, red grapes accounted for only 12 per cent of Germany’s vineyards. Today, that number exceeds 36 per cent. The most notable of Germany’s red wines include, Trollinger, Blaufrankicsh, and Pinot Noir.

Today I am joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Liesel Braun. We are exploring the world of German red wines. Though beer is Germany’s national beverage, wine has definitely made its mark on the country’s social structure. Reds are not only gaining with the Germans, but the international market as well.

In Stuttgart, visit any wine bar or biergarten and you’ll be surprised to see Germans quaffing down bottles of a local wine known as Trollinger (traw-ling-ger). This grape grows primarily in the Wurttemberg region and the Swabians love it. What is most interesting about the appearance of Trollinger, it looks more like cherry kool-aid rather than a rare and unique wine. In Italy this grape is known as Schiava and in Austria, Vernatsch. However, neither country shares Germany’s enthusiasm for the grape. Truth be known, Wurttembergers drink it like water. It has also been documented to have been a particular favorite of Martin Luther.

Trollinger first came to Germany during Roman times. It is believed that its name is derived from “Tirol-linger” because it originated in Tirol, Italy. It is a late harvest wine and does not ripen until October. Served cold, Trollinger resembles a strong rose. It is a fresh and fruity wine with an odd, almost medicinal finish.

Our first selection was a Wuerttemberger Trollinger 2007. On the eye, it is a lovely dark rose color. The bouquet is fragrant with a light fruitiness. On the palate it is a light and lively wine with plenty acidity, it was a bit sweeter and with more residual sugar than I had expected. I found the finish on our Wuerttemberger Trollinger on the odd side and somewhat lacking. The alcohol content was 12.5% and a price tag of $22.

“Though this wine is well made, it is just not my palate,” Liesel paused to collect her thoughts. “As for pairing this wine, I would serve it with most anything that goes along  with a rose.”

“Every festival I have attended in the Stuttgart region, where beer is the order of the day, Trollinger is seemingly being enjoyed by many,” My tone was one of amusement.

“I must admit that I do not share their enthusiasm,” Liesel shook her head in disdain. “Trollinger is not very tasty, and its popularity bewilders me. In fact, I think it should be blended. I am sure that the result would be a much better wine.”

Blauer Limberger, also known as Blaufrankisch or Lemberger, thrives along the lower stretches of the Danube River. Typically the wines are extremely dark in color. Being a late-ripening variety, it is rich in tannin with a spicy pronounced character. On the nose there are aromas of dark ripe cherries and dark berries. On the palate, it is often silky with spice flavors, boysenberry, and blackberry. Young wines are deeply fruity and become more velvety and complex with age. The finish is long and fruit accented. Lemberger wine can best be categorized as between pinot noir and syrah. Germans are quick to repute that Lemberger was quite popular with both Napoleon Bonaparte and Otto von Bismarck.

Our next selection was a Grafen Neipperg 2008 Lemberger. This is a ruby red wine. It is charming in character, showing bright red fruit aromas of cherry and blackberries. On the palate, there is a good concentration of red berry fruit and well-balanced tannins. The finish proved to be long and fruity. The alcohol content is 13% and a price tag of $23. On a historical note, the counts of Neipperg have cultivated vines for over 700 years in the wine-growing region of Wurttemberg. Hereditary count, Karl Eugen, has been responsible for the wine estate since 1984.

“I like this wine very much,” Liesel’s eyes crinkled softly as she began to smile. “I am also positive that with a bit of aging, Lemberger meets with your palate.”

“It does indeed. I very much like our Grafen Neipperg,” I gave her a quick wink. Perhaps we should call on the count and share our praise.”

“Prost!” We both erupted euphorically.

“This is definitely a food wine. I would serve it with blue or goat cheese. Pasta and red sauces would also go nicely. “Liesel, with what foods would you pair this Lemberger?” I queried.

“Roasted lamb or wild game,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “I think a nice roasted hare would go over nicely.”

Our next wine comes as a bit of a surprise. In Germany, Spatburgunder is to red wine, what Riesling is to white wine, the creme de la creme. This grape varietal is sensitive to climate and soil. It also needs warmth to thrive and ripens late. Sound familiar? If you recognized that Spatburgunder is the German equivalent to Pinot Noir, welcome to the head of the class.

Spatburgunder was brought to Germany from Burgundy as early as the 4th century. However, Spatburgunder differs from Pinot Noir. The intended result of Pinot Noir is to produce an elegant, velvety wine, with a distinctive bouquet of bitter almonds or blackberries. German Spratburgunder, in contrast, is lighter in color, body, and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates. Yet these wines have lost none of the character and appeal that is indicative of Pinot Noir. What German winemakers have essentially done is to take their understanding of cool climate viticulture, and produce some wines that rival even the most long established producers of Pinot Noir.

Our last selection was a Karl H. Johner Pinot Noir Enselberg 2008. On the eye, it is a pale cherry red color. The nose is filled with a concentration of cherry fruit, and notes of herbs and spices. Overall the bouquet is fragrant, and perfumed. On the palate, our Johner Pinot Noir is medium-bodied, taut, with black cherry undertones.  There is also a piquant and spicy edge. Though “Old World” in style, there is just enough sweet fruit to satisfy one’s palate. The finish is silky, fluent, and pure.The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $35.

“I especially like the soft texture to this Pinot Noir,” Liesel eagerly shared her delight. “I would pair it with lighter style roasted game birds.”

“I found the bouquet a bit too perfumed,” I flashed Liesel a reassuring smile. “Overall, I was quite impressed and particularly liked the pepperiness of German style Pinot Noir.”

“Now our readers know that there is certainly more to German red wines other than Dornfelder,” Liesel chuckled softly.

“But that my friends is another story …”

Sparkling Wines at Their Best

Anyone who has been reading my weekly column knows that I love and exalt sparkling wine. I have gone on record, and jokingly stated that Champagne is what makes life bearable. I am also fond of saying that when the weather is too cold, the only thing to drink is Champagne.

So here we are on another chilly Kyiv day of 18 degrees Fahrenheit. The city is knee deep in beautiful drifts of white snow. Peering out my balcony window, I am enthralled by the charm of icicles cascading in luxuriantly from the ledge above.

I am joined by long time friend, and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. However, today the bubbly we will be tasting is not from France. It is not made in the French style, nor does it use any of the traditional grape varietals found in sparkling wine. If it is not made with some combination of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, how then can it be a credible sparkling wine?

Bagrationi wines hail from the Republic of Georgia, the birthplace of wine, some 8,000 years ago. The Bagrationi Winery was formally established in 1937. However, its! roots go much deeper. Ivane Bagrationi Mukhraneli was descended from an ancient royal family. The family first started making their legendary sparkling wines in the 1800s. In 1882, Bagrationi wines gained repute throughout Europe by winning the International Grand Prix held that year in Saint-Petersburg, Russia. Hence, the company’s branding, Bagrationi 1882.

So when Nicholas Krivoruchko of the Pacific Wine Marketing Group first contacted Chris Terrell and I, we were quick to market the Bagrationi brand. In fact, within a very short time, these notable sparkling wines had gained an immense and loyal following.

“Grisha, I am almost ashamed to admit that before meeting you,” Elena paused lightly. My wine knowledge focused mainly around French varietals.”

“This is quite the norm,” I smiled reassuringly. “Many sommeliers focus on French, Italian, and California varietals. However, there are those who are also particularly fond of their indigenous wines. I was fortunate that through my travels, I met such connoisseurs and they opened me up to an entirely new world of wine.”

Sparkling wines can be paired with a great many foods. Two of the most popular have long been strawberries and caviar. I have found that bubbly also pairs nicely with other fruits such as, apricots, apples, pears, blueberries, and melons. When pairing fruits, it is important to make selections that are not overly sweet, messy, and their flavor does not overpower the wine. In terms of food, cheese, pasta, and seafood are all excellent pairings.

“What is our first selection?” Elena openly displayed her anticipation.

“I selected Bagrationi’s Reserve Brut,” my eyes crinkled softly. “It is not a vintage wine, but one of my favorites.

“Gaumarjos,” she toasted me as I filled our glasses.

The Reserve Brut is made from three grape varietals, Chinebuli, Mtsvane, and Tsitska. The vineyards are located in the regions of Imereti, Kakheti and Kartli. This is a traditional Georgian style sparkling wine. On the eye, our Reserve Brut is a pale straw in color. The nose is light and floral. There is an elegance to this wine that is full of peach and apricot aromas. On the palate, there is a marked richness, creamy mouth-feel and exceptional balance along with a refreshing fruitiness. The finish is crisp and dry. It is also memorable and with persistent flavors.

“I agree. I especially liked the the pear flavors,” Elena flashed me an even grin. “I also like the pinpoint bubbles and the freshness of this wine.”

“An exceptional value at $25 for a methode champenoise wine.”

Our next selection from Bagrationi was the Royal Cuvee 2007. This vintage wine is produced solely from Chinebuli grapes from the Kartli region. Our 2007 is an elegant and superior quality wine. It is light gold in color, with delicate bouquet is of fresh flowers and lively citrus fruits. On the palate, the wine is fruity with notes of pear, apple, and a hint of almond. The finish is crisp and long, and persistently rich.

“It seems that today I am fixated on bubbles,” Elena laughed out loudly. “The Chinebuli grapes produce fine, threadlike bubbles. I also like the acidity of the Royal Cuvee.”

“Keep in mind mind that Chinebuli grapes are unique to Georgia. They are favored for their fleshy and juicy pulp,” I paused for effect. “Georgian winemakers prefer the use of these grapes for their premium wines. Overall, an exceptional wine at $40.

“I have something special for you,” I called for Elena’s attention.

“Surprise me,” she smiled giddily.

“I know of your fondness for rose style sparkling wine,” I paused for effect. “Bagrationi now has now added a delightful rouge to their array of sparkling wines.”

“Mmmm,” Elena displayed her excitement. “Stop talking and pour our wine.”

“Gaumarjos!”

Our Bagrationi Rouge is Saperavi based. Arguably the most popular grape varietal throughout the Caucuses, Saperavi is Georgia’s noble wine making fruit. It is a durable grape that is used in almost every facet of Georgian wine making. It is a thin-skinned grape whose pulp is juicy. The fruit is deep blue in color and cultivated only in select appellations of the Kakheti region. The result is a delectable wine which has become quite popular when served as an aperitif. There is a fruity aroma of berries followed by a rich mouth-feel with a soft and smooth finish.

Quite a treat at only $12 for this methode charmat wine.

Grisha, this is a delightful wine and I must admit that I am taken aback by the the price,” Elena paused lightly. “Definitely an exceptional buy.”

“Nothing about the bubbles?” I flashed a furtive smile.

“But of course,” Elena paused on the moment. “I liked the wine’s crisp acidity and refreshing bubbles.

“Gaumarjos.”

“Grisha, I also think that the Bagrationi Rouge would pair nicely with chocolates,” Elena playfully teased. “I hope you remember that on the upcoming Valentine holiday.”

“But that my friends is a different story … “

Slivovitz : Firewater from the Balkans

Located on the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, the city of Belgrade juts out across the the Pannonian Plain and meets the Balkans. Its name in English translates as ‘White City.’ Not only is Belgrade one of the largest cities in East Central Europe, it is a particular favorite of my long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Kalina Novac.

From the opulent surroundings of the Metropol Palace Hotel, Kalina and I settled back and admired our lavish setting. A fashionable mix of style and sophistication, the hotel’s renown lobby bar was the perfect setting for our tasting.

Our table had been set with traditional Serbian delicacies. Kajmak, local cream cheese, fresh tomatoes, roasted meat dishes, and prsuta, dried meat.

“Gregory,” Kalina called for my attention. “I am curious as to how you came to know and love Slivovitz.”

“When I was an undergraduate, I spent a year at the London School of Economics. It was at that time I was first learned to appreciate Serbia’s famed plum brandy.”

“Surely, you jest,” Kalina could not conceal her amusement. You were introduced to Slivovitz by the Brits?”

I cracked a smile. “Actually, it was from some Australian students,” I paused in fond reflection. “We had a weekly poker game and they loved to imbibe in the filthy stuff.”

We both erupted euphorically as Kalina presented me with our first bottle.

“Gregory, I think you need to explain to our readers what exactly is Slivovitz before they get the wrong idea.”

Slivovitz or Slivovitsa is a distilled liqueur made from Damson plums. Throughout the Balkans it is frequently referred to as “plum brandy.” In Hungary and Slovakia it is known as Palenka. It is primarily produced in the Slavic regions of Central and Eastern Europe, both commercially as well as homemade. The primary producers are in Bosnia, Croatia, Serbia, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland. Hungary, and Bulgaria.

Slivovitz is the national drink of Serbia and plum is the national fruit. A Serbian meal usually starts or ends with plum products. Typically, Slivovitz is typically 100 proof and is served as an aperitif and served at cellar temperature in a special shot glass called cokanji.

“In Serbia, there is a saying that the best place to build a house is where a plum tree grows best,” Kalina smiled demurely.

“Ziveli, to your health,” I nodded in agreement as I toasted her.

“What amuses you,” Kalina queried.

“Our first selection, Maraska,” I reflected. “This was the first Slivovitz I tried and enjoyed so many years ago.”

Maraska Sljivovica hails from the Zadar region of Croatia.

It is a distinctive plum brandy with natural flavors and rich aromas. This is achieved through special fermentation, distillation, and a long term aging process in oak barrels.

“The woods of the Zadar region are quite unique and attribute to Maraska’s distinctive flavor,” Kalina was quick to add. “It is most interesting that you developed a taste for Slivovitz starting with Maraska.”

I cocked a puzzled brow.”Why is that?”

“Maraska can be over powering and a bit on the harsh side. There is also a musky pit bite. Kalina’s eyes crinkled into a smile. “It’s as you Americans say, fire water.”

“Let’s just say it warmed me up on those damp London nights.”

Kalina chuckled under her breath. “We claim it is just the thing to warm your toes on cold wintery nights before going out.”

“I can attest that one definitely feels Slivovitz from head to toe as it warms the entire body,” I joined in Kalina’s merriment.

Our next selection was from the distiller, Navip. This Slivovitz has a distinctive style that is all its own. It is produced from the famous, juice-rich Procegaca Plum and aged 8 years in oak barrels. Recognized for its yellow-gold color, soft round taste, and sweet, fine rich fruit flavors, Navip is the perennial favorite of most Serbs.

“Most Serbs prefer Navip’s smoother drinking style. They claim that there is just the right amount of fire and depth to Navip,” Kalina added.”

“Serbs also claim that there are no hang overs from Navip,” I clearly displayed my doubt.

“I must admit that Navip was my Slivovitz of choice until I met you,” Kalina nodded her approval. “Gregory, I have never known anyone with such an experimental palate.”

I chuckled lightly. “It’s like I always tell my sister, the worst that could possibly happen is it is just not your palate.”

Our last selection is in my opinion, the finest crafted Slivovitz. 12 year old Stara Sokolova, ‘old falcon,’ is a dark amber in color and slightly reminiscent of cognac. And like fine cognac, this Slivovitz is smoother, rounder, full-bodied and loses none of it’s complexity. They say that there are many secrets to a great brandy. I believe that one is the love that grows between brandy and its oak barrel. As my friend and master distiller, Radisav Bogdanovic, is fond of saying, ‘the longer the love lasts, the better the brandy becomes,’

“I whole-heartedly agree,” Kalina’s tone was flat and matter of fact. “The Bogdanovic family from the village of Kostojevic, have been producing the finest Slivovitz in the Bajina Basta region for over 2 centuries.”

“I feel like eating something sweet,” I smacked my lips hungrily.

“Belgrade’s pastry shops are notable for their tasty homemade pastries and cakes,” Kalina said assuringly.

“Mammas’ Biscuit House,” we chimed in unison.

By day, Mamma’s is known for it’s delectable pastries. However, by night, its reputation has little to do with sweets and more with fun … “But that my friends is another story …

The Prince’s Bubbly

Rolling green hills and the open expanse of lush vineyards dominate the panorama of the Alazani Valley.  A wise man once said that the land of the gods is in essence, a vineyard between two mountain ranges. Since the legendary quest of Jason and the Argonauts to the land of Colchis, as this fabled land was known in antiquity, the Greek heroes discovered something more valuable than the coveted “Golden Fleece.” What they found was simply the best wine in the world. Wine is and has always been, what truly defines the Republic of Georgia.

Today I am once again joined by my fellow sommeliers, Medea and Shorena. From our terrace vista, we have a lovely view of our hostʼs vineyards. Our table has been impeccably set to include an assortment of local fruits, goat cheese, and of course, lavash bread.

“Grigol, we have selected three of your favorite sparkling wines from Bagrationi 1882,” Medea said assuredly.

It was Prince Ivane Bagrationi Mukhraneli who first launched production according to French methods back in 1882. Today they can can proudly boast that they are Georgiaʼs leading producer of sparkling wines.

“Excellent selection,” I smiled as I looked over the wines. “We shall start with the Classic Brut,” Shorena spoke with anticipation.

Anyone who knows champagne is quick to note that the three most common used grape varietals are pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier. Not in Georgia. Local winemakers are partial to using only indigenous grape varietals.

“Our Classic Brut,” Shorena paused momentarily to collect her thoughts. “Our Classic Brut is made from Chinuri, Tsitska, and Mtsvane Grapes.”

“Methode Charmat,” Medea was quick to add.

Holding up my glass, the wine has a pale straw color with steady vigorous bubbles. The nose is a bit reserved with a subtle hint of apple and pear.

Gaumarjos! We jubilantly toasted each other.

On the palate, the Classic Brut is very clean and crisp with light green apple flavors. It is light in style, even on the finish.

“Very Prosecco-like,” Medea said matter-of-factly. “All in all, a fine bubbly.” Shorena was pleased by her selection.

“Grigol,” Medea exclaimed with excitement. “I selected a bottle of your favorite.” “The Reserve Brut?ʼ I cocked a curious brow. “Indeed. It is a 2007.”Medea said proudly.

The Reserve Brut is made using methode Champenoise. The grape varietals are Chinuri, Tsitska, and Mtsvane. It is pale yellow straw in color. The nose is light and floral. On the palate, it has a creamy mouth-feel with good depth of ripe pear and fruit flavors. The finish is exceptionally strong with persistent flavors and a crisp dryness.

“I love this wine,” Medea smiled softly. “I especially like the finish.”

Shorena nodded in agreement. “This wine also has good depth.”

“Our last wine is a 2007 Royal Cuvee,” Medea handed me the bottle. “Grigol, perhaps you should share with your readers the correct way to open a bottle of sparkling wine.”
Flashing a quick smile, I nodded in agreement. “Actually it is quite simple. Place one hand on the cork and the other on the bottle. I usually turn clockwise with the hand on the cork and counter-clockwise with the hand that is on the bottle. Voila … no spray or spills. Only a nice pop.”

“You ought to see him do it with a sword, Medea laughed with delight. “Pity we donʼt have a Shaska saber on hand,” Shorena joined in on the merriment. Chuckling under my breath. “Ladies, letʼs press on.”

Our 2007 Royal Cuvee proved to be a most elegant wine. On the nose, it is delicate and refined with a hint of white flowers, and ripe apple. It has an expressive palate with excellent acidity and balance. There is also a creaminess of ripe pear and a hint of almond. The finish is crisp, long, and with a persistent richness. The Royal Cuvee is made from a blend of old vine Chinuri grapes using methode Champenoise.

“The grapes are from the Kartli region?” I queried. “Of course, “ Medea replied. “A fine wine indeed, “ I flashed a smile. “I could drink this wine all day long, “ Shorena exclaimed. “Touche,” Medea agreed as she applauded the wine. “Ladies, you out did yourself today,” I nodded in approval. “What is next for this trip?”

Medea gave a subtle grin. This weekend we have a very special tasting planned when we arrive in Batumi Beach.”

“But that my friends is another story … “

A Simple Guide to Rose Wine Styles

Remember Mateus or Lancers? If your exposure to wine was similar to mine, these two Portuguese wines played an integral part of your earliest days of drinking wine. However, did you know that once introduced onto the world market, both wines set sales records in both Europe and the United States?

Whether you know this style of wine as rosé, rosado, or rosato, we are talking about one of the oldest styles of wine. Its color ranges from a pale onion to a vivid purple. Of course, coloring is dependent on the grape varietal used and the wine making technique. These techniques include, skin contact, saignee, and blending.

The red wines of antiquity were much closer in color to today’s rosé. This was because the  earliest wine making techniques involved pressing soon after harvest. The ancient Greeks, for one, preferred the lighter colored, and fruitier style of red wines.

Once we get to the Middle Ages, pale clarets from Bordeaux became all the rage. It is also interesting to point out that at this time, pink Champagnes were favored over today’s drier sparkling white wines.

Let’s start with a Grenache Rosé. This style of wine is often fruity. In the glass it is typically a light coral and striated with brilliant hues. The nose is floral with aromas of dried roses, sage, and light red berry fruit. Its touch is light on the palate with soft acidity. Soft flavors of strawberry, orange, and mineral notes, come through nicely. This is a good wine to serve slightly chilled and paired with Thai dishes like Shrimp and Pad Thai. Give a 2008 Chateau d’ Aqueria Tavel a try. The bottle price is only $18.

Next, let’s take a look at Sangiovese Rosé. This style is fruity. In the glass, the wine is particularly inviting as it casts a light red copper glow. The nose is filled with pleasant aromas of fresh strawberry, melon, peach, and just a whisper of roses. On the palate, the wine is light in body and high in acidity. It is at its best when served slightly chilled, and paired with prawns or a Crab or Shrimp Louie Salad. If we go Californian, my pick is a 2012 Stolpman Rosé. It is blended with a bit of Grenache to come up with a wine that is bright and vibrant. The bottle price is only $15.

Moving right along, we arrive at Tempranillo Rosé. This style is known for its savoriness. In the glass, it is usually a pale pink. Though not particularly inviting to the eye, do not be so quick to pass judgment on this wine. The nose is vivacious. It permeates of herbs and peppercorn. Rounding out the bouquet are aromas of watermelon and strawberry. On the palate, Tempranillo Roséis fresh, full flavored and loaded with strawberry and a host of red fruits. This style of Roséis best paired with light fish dishes, and typical springtime savoir faire. Give the 2013 Vina Albali a try. It is also blended with Graciano and Grenache. Such a combination has resulted in a wine that is full of floral notes which transcend on to the palate. With a bottle price of only $12, this is a wine not to be over looked.

Pressing on (pun intended), we come to Syrah Rosé. This is another style of Rosé that is known for its savoriness. In the glass, the wine is typically a deeper ruby in color. The nose is dominated by aromas of strawberry, cherry, and peach, with hints of white pepper, and finally suggestions of green olive. The palate is much bolder, with acidity, and lively fruit. This style of Rosé is rich flavors of cherry and strawberry. I like to serve Syrah Rosé  with fun foods; pizza, burgers, chili, and summer picnics. A particular favorite of mine is a 2007 Three Saints Santa Ynez Valley Syrah. A steal, with a bottle price of only $18.

Moving right along, let’s have a look at Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé. The style is savory and most often made in the Saignee method. In the glass, the resulting wine is a deep ruby red. The nose is laced with ample aromas of roses and fresh strawberry. The palate is light with soft flavors of cherry, black currant, pepper, and spice. If you are a Cab lover, be forewarned that this style of Roséis very high in acidity. This is because most Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ever see any oak. I often enjoy Hardy’s Crest Rosé from Australia. It goes great with antipasto and well worth the bottle price of $20.

At length, we arrive at Zinfandel Rosé. Also known as “White Zinfandel,” this style of sweet Rosé is considered the dreaded wine among wine snobs. However, here are some interesting facts about “White Zin.” It is perhaps the most popular Rosé wine sold in the United States. White Zinfandel actually accounts for 10% of all US wine sales. Lastly, roughly 85% of Zinfandel production is geared toward the Rosé market. In the glass, the wine is often a silvery pink to a light coral. The nose is fruit filled and typically dominated strawberry and peach. The palate is medium to high in acidity and moderately sweet. White Zinfandel is loaded with flavors of strawberry, cantaloupe, sweet melon, and hints of cotton candy. The wine is best served ice cold and paired with exotic sweet and spicy dishes from Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand. With a bottle price of only $10, Berenger is a good buy.

Now we move to a much more savory and rich style of Rosé wine, Tavel from Cotes due Rhone. This style of Rosé is reputed to have the favorite of famed novelist, Ernest Hemingway. This is an unusually dry wine for a Rosé. Overall, it has more body and structure than most Rosé, and its character is more that of a red wine. Travel is primarily a blend of Grenache and Cinsault. In the glass, the wine is a salmon pink in color. The nose is filled with aromas of summer fruits dominated by strawberry, pomegranate, and light nutty overtones. This wine does age well, and with time, the nutty notes become richer and much more pronounced. On the palate, the wine is quite refreshing, low in acidity, and high in alcohol content. The dominant flavors are strawberry, pomegranate, cherry, followed by light herbal notes. This wine is at its best when served as an aperitif or with spicy foods. One of my particular favorites is the 2011 Guigal Tavel Roséwhich has a bottle price of $20.

Our next style of Rosé is from Provence and characterized as fruity and lean. It is a blend of Grenache, Cinault, Syrah, and Mourvedre. In the the glass its color is a pale pink. The nose is delightfully filled with aromas of strawberry, watermelon, and rose petals. On the palate this Rosé is very fresh, clean, crisp, and dry. Though full-bodied, it is lower in alcohol content, yet losing none of its impact. The mouthfeel is delightful and nicely textured. Good fruit abounds with flavors of strawberry and melon dominating. The finish is stony, with some minerality. Give the 2012 Commanderie de Peyrasol de Provence Roséa try. With a bottle price of $25, this is definitely a food wine that will pair with most dishes.

Moving on, our next style of Rosé, Mourvedre, is fruity and floral. In the glass the wine is a pale coral. On the nose, this style of Rosé is very floral with aromas of violets and rose petals prevailing. On the palate the wine is nicely structured with good balance. There are enjoyable flavors of red plums, cherries, herbs, and a whisper of smoke. Mourvedre Rosépairs nicely with most Mediterranean dishes. I often serve it with grilled lamb or grilled salmon steaks. Both pair nicely with a 2012 Les Vignobles Gueissard Bandol which has a bottle price of $25.

Our last style of of Rosé is delicately fruity. What else could be expected from such an elegant grape as Pinot Noir. In the glass this Pinot befits its name. In French, it means pink and refers to the primary flower of romance. The nose is soft and subtle with aromas of crabapple, watermelon, raspberry, and strawberry. On the palate, the wine is earthy, but very elegant. Though crisp and dry, this style of Rosé is rich in fruit, with flavors of raspberry and plum prevailing. The finish smooth and pleasurable. For that great summer wine, try a 2011 Yealand Estate Pinot Noir from New Zealand. The bottle of price is only $25 and it pairs quite nicely with a goat cheese salad, squid, or fresh crab.

“Hmm, fresh crab. Sounds delicious. Since I know which wine, the remaining question would be the crab … Soft or hard shell? But that my friends, is a different story … “

Is There Such a Thing as a Cheap Barolo?

Literally at the foothills of the Alps, Piedmont abounds with vineyards producing Italy’s finest wine. A sumptuous and noble wine that has been heralded as the “the wine of kings, the king of wines.” Of course, I am speaking of Barolo.

Today, I am with my friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. We are visiting one of Piedmont’s loveliest villages, La Morra. Mornings in autumn are my favorite time to traverse the rolling hills that are striated with truly majestic vineyards. The region devotes roughly 3000 acres, which is dominated by Piedmont’s black grape, Nebbiolo. The varietal derives it’s name from the thick morning fog, the Nebbia.

“Gregorio,” Serena called for my attention. “Before we can discuss any inexpensive Barolo, I think our readers need to know just what makes Barolo so expensive.”

“But of course,” I nodded in agreement.

The Nebbiolo grape has distinct qualities that it brings to Barolo and produces wines at typically 14-15 % alcohol. The grape has complex flavors and bitter tannins. It also requires an exceptionally long growing season. For the grapes to ripen to their fullest, sunshine is of vital importance. To add to the difficulty in cultivating the Nebbiolo grape is, location, location, location. The vineyard must catch as much sunlight as possible. This has a direct bearing on the quality of the wine.

“Very true,” Serena smiled giving a nod of approval. “This is why bottles of Barolo are often labeled bricco, sori, and costa,” she paused lightly. “This indicates hilltop, hillside, and sun-catching potential.”

“Producing the best Barolos is a complex combination of of climate, soil, farming methods, choice of grapes, and the process of maturing,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “In the past Barolos were rich on tannin. So much so that it could take up to 10 years for the wine to soften and be ready for the most discerning of palates.”

“Quite true,” Serena added. “Fermenting wines sat on skins for at least three weeks extracting huge amounts of tannins. From there, they were aged in large wooden casks for years.”

“Today, in an attempt to appeal to international tastes, which prefer fruitier, early drinking wine styles, several vintners have cut fermentation times to ten days.”

“They also prefer to age wines in new French oak barriques,” Serena added.

“Ah, the Barolo Wars,” I flashed Serena a wide beaming smile. “The controversy abounds between the traditionalists and modernists.”

“Yes,” Serena grinned. “Traditionalist complain that this style of Barolo tastes more of new oak than wine.”

At length we returned to our hosts’ home. From the veranda of the Gagliasso family home, I peered out at the countryside. La Morra is roughly 1700 feet above sea level and the view is breathless. With the Alps as a majestic backdrop, the Gagliasso’s have nurtured, with the utmost of love and care, a winery of rare beauty and quality wines.

We were greeted by our host Luca Gagliasso. After the customary pleasantries, we took our seats at a table that had been filled with a myriad of fruits, nuts, and succulent meats.

“Gregorio my friend,” Luca flashed me a wide beaming grin. “Are you ready to drink some Barolo?” He then presented me with one of my favorites from the Gagliasso vintages.

“Ah, the 2004. You remembered how much I enjoy the wines from your Roche dell Annuziata vineyard,” I said gleefully.

Luca’s grandfather began the family business some 50 years ago. However, it was Luca’s father, Mario, who was the innovator behind the implementation of modern techniques and producing quality wines at a value.

“What I like most about the 2004 vintages is their elegance and finesse,” toasting both Serena and Luca. “Cin cin.”

Our 2004 Roche dell Annuziata is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes from 50 year old vineyards. On the eye, our wine had a lovely black almandine coloring to it which paled towards orange around the rim. The bouquet was fairly rich with a scent of pleasing spice, rosa canina, and some underlying fruit. There is quite a bit going on and nice depth. On the palate, the wine is fairly rich with clean berry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and tannins that are warm and have become more velvety with age. The finish was clean, somewhat tart, and with mineral accents. Overall this is a lovely Barolo that pairs quite well with succulent meats.

“My friend, I am truly pleased that you enjoy this wine. We aged it for 18 months in French oak barrels, then another 12 months in large barrels. Lastly, 12 months in the bottle,” Luca spoke with great pride.

“And the maceration period?” Serena queried.

“15 days with 4 daily remontages,” Luca shared a wide beaming smile.

“And at only $60 per bottle, a fantastic value,” I applauded our host.

“Gregorio, did you know that our 2005 Barolo Roche dell Annuziata received a score of 91 points from Wine Spectator?” Luca clearly displayed his pride.

“I have never tried the 2005,” Serena admitted.

“We will definitely try this vintage our next visit,” I reached over and patted Luca on the hand.

“Nonsense, and I won’t hear of it. You will both be our guests for dinner,” Luca’s tone was final.

Seeing Serena’s face brighten into a smile, I nodded in approval as I toasted our host. “My friend, we are at your complete disposal.”

The next day, Serena and I found ourselves at a local cafe, enjoying an espresso. “Are you ready to make our Barolo list?”

Serena nodded. “I think our readers now have a fair idea of what makes a good Barolo.

They will definitely have fun tasting some of the values we will recommend.”

Barolo $25-$50 price range

1. 2005 Giovanni Viberti Barolo Buon Padre-An elegant wine with a gorgeous nose and a dry youthful finish.

2. 2006 Vietti Barolo Castigllone-This is a young wine, but with a little air, it showed the darker and richer tones of Nebbiolo.

3. 2006 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe-There were no overwhelming tannins present. Definitely not a wine for aging. It was meant to be drunk now. A very affordable daily drinker.

4. 2006 Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barolo Cannubbio-This classic Barolo is very “old school.” Plenty of stiff tannins and earthy fruit.

5. 2006 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero-This is an enticing wine. Traditional in style, it is a delicate wine that is wrapped around a firm spine.

We hope you enjoy your journey through the world of Barolo. For me, this is my wine. Barolo is truly the “king of wines.”Just remember that there are some cheap wines on the market. Barolo fiends that have been indifferently fermented. However, if you start with the 6 wines we mentioned, you will be on the path to discovering what I consider the finest wine in the world.

“You are probably wondering how was the 2005 Gagliasso Roche dell Annuziata … That my friends is another story …