Is Corn Vodka Unaged Whiskey?

Due to all the interest from our readers, we decided to conduct a tasting with corn based vodkas. Who would have thought that finding this style of spirit in Europe would be such a difficult task.

My living room table had been set and everything was ready to go, with the exception of a most important addition. If you guessed my long time friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko, you are absolutely correct.

Not to worry, Elena is always fashionably late. Just then my doorbell rang. Right on time. Exactly ten minutes passed the hour.

“Zahodte, come in,” I greeted her with a kiss on each cheek.

“Grisha,” Elena’s eyes sparkled softly. “What is it that amuses you?”

“I was just commenting on how you are always exactly ten minutes late.”

“My dear Grisha,” she flashed me a quick wink. “Anything under ten minutes would be unseemly and not all fashionable. Over ten minutes would just be rude.”

“Touche,” I took her coat and motioned her to the living room.

“Wherever did you find so many different types of corn vodka?” As she surveyed the setting, the look on Elena’s face was one of great surprise. “The other day when we went shopping we found only one brand.”

“I called a couple of friends at the US and Canadian embassies,” I paused lightly. “I had to trade some of my Polish vodka.

“On a completely different note,” she paused on the moment. “We should inform our readers that corn vodka is not unaged whiskey.”

“Precisely. Different stills are often used in the making of each spirit, and with a completely different objective in mind, “ I paused to collect my thoughts. “There are also much different standards when it comes to distilling whiskey. If anything, corn vodka is a type of moonshine.”

“Dobrey, let’s drink,” Elena said in anticipation.

Our first selection hails from Newfoundland, Canada. Iceberg proudly boasts that they have come up with the wold’s purest vodka. The distillers have come up with a truly unique vodka by actually using the water from icebergs. Each spring the company  harvests tons of ice from the region’s famous “Iceberg Alley.” Iceberg has literally put a new twist on claiming the purity of the waters used in their spirits. To add to the vodka’s allure, only the best Ontario sweet corn is used in the triple distilling of Iceberg. The alcohol content is 40% with a price of $25.

“I found Iceberg to be a bit harsh and without definite character,” Elena nodded in finality.

“Definitely not distinctive and lacking in flavor,” I paused for effect. “There is also more burn on the finish than I find acceptable.”

“Perhaps if they had tried something like at Reyka,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “A final filtration over lava rock.”

“Lava rock?” I flashed Elena a broad smile. “Our next vodka did just that.”

Nude Vodka is quite vogue in the States these days. It is out of Bend, Oregon. Nude Spirits uses only the finest Oregon corn, spring water from the Cascade Mountains, and has been distilled five times. A key difference with Nude, is an attempt to create a vodka with its own distinctive flavor. This is done with a final filtration through volcanic rock. The result is a smooth tasting and elegant vodka for even the most discerning of palates. It is 40% alcohol with a price tag of $30.

“I agree,” Elena was pleasantly surprised. “It definitely has its own character and much more flavorful than I would have thought. I especially like the mineral quality.”

“Yes, I like the mouth feel to this well-rounded vodka.” I gave Elena a nod of approval. “I think it is the filtration through the crushed volcanic rock that makes the difference. Definitely a vodka worth sipping.”

“I also like the finish,” Elena moistened her lips. “Quite smooth with almost no burn. I think that Nude would also make an excellent martini.”

Our next selection was another fashionable vodka from the States. Prairie Organic is handcrafted from certified organic yellow corn grown from a co-op of 900 Minnesota farmers. The distillers pride themselves on a spirit that is smooth, practically flavorless with a finish to match. It is 40% alcohol with a price tag of $25.

“On the nose I did pick up some hints of melon,” Elena remarked in a subtle tone. “It  was also a bit velvety on the palate with a long smooth finish.”

“I think you are a bit too generous,” I shook my head in disagreement. “I found the aroma lightly medicinal, just enough to agitate me. On the palate, I found it to be somewhat  bland though I do agree that the finish was smooth and with no aftertaste. Overall, I think this vodka is just too clean.”

“Perhaps a dirty martini would liven things up,” Elena chuckled under her breath.

Our last selection was another premium vodka from Canada. Pur Ultra Premium Vodka is made entirely in Quebec. It is distilled from the finest sweet corn from the province, glacier water, and the traditional charcoal filtration to achieve maximum purity. The result is a clean, polished spirit. The alcohol content is 40% and the price tag is $40.

“I picked up faint aromas of spicy custard pastry and honey,” Elena’s eyes crinkled softly. “However, there was a hint of juniper that was enough to distract me.”

“Obviously, we are not gin drinkers,” we both laughed in unison. “There is a distinct  apple-peel taste to this medium to full-bodied vodka. I did like the peppery finish.”

“Grisha, I think distillers who have a preference for corn vodka are pursuing a different end than what we purists prefer,” she said flatly.”

“I agree whole-heartedly. Their objective seems to be a spirit that is clean, smooth, almost tasteless, and with almost no burn,” I shrugged shoulders. “I would guess the emphasis is on creating the ultimate spirit for cocktails.”

“Most Ukrainians are traditionalist,” Elena smiled with amusement. “If there is no burn, it is not vodka.”

“What do you say to cleansing our palates with a big bowl of borsch?”

“’Panas Restaurant!” Elena was quick to share her excitement. “You know I love this Restaurant. What ever made you think of Panas?”

“Well, it is only across the street,” I muttered to myself. But Borsch at Panas, that my friends is a different story …”

South Africa: Think Global, Drink Local

Just east of Cape Town is one of South Africa’s most prolific wine regions. Known as “Winelands,” it is a seemingly mystical land conjured from a fantasy tale. The landscape is fringed with craggy mountains whose peaks ascend high into the clouds. Green valleys are dotted with 300 year old camphor trees, fields of flowers that eventually lead to a seemingly endless sea of grape vines. For the better part of 10 days, long time friend, Elena Boiko and I have been exploring the region with fellow sommelier, Kayla Derckson.

Kayla is a proud South African who knows her country’s wines. She also grew up in the Cape area and speaks English, Afrikaans, Xhosa. and Zulu. South Africa actually has 11 official languages. These are Afrikaans, English, Niedebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swazi, Tswana, Tsonga, Vende, Xhosa, and Zulu. Not to mention scores of unofficial tongues. It seems that South Africa is not called the rainbow nation for nothing. This school of thought seems to have also crossed over in to South Africa’s philosophy on wine. Most vintners would agree with the maxim, “Think global, drink local.”

Today we have joined Kayla in her home away from home, the ever popular waterfront restaurant and wine bar, Belthazar. The restaurant is known for its steaks and a selection of over 600 wines, and 200 served by the glass.

For our first selection, Kayla decided on a sparkling wine. Graham Beck Brut NV is produced in the ‘methode champenoise’ manner and made under the supervision of the legendary, Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira. It is a blend of 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir. The grapes are from South Africa’s renown, Robertson region. In the glass, our Brut is alive with bubbles. The nose is very fresh and laced with aromas of apple, white peach, pear, lime, cherry, and just a whisper of ginger. On the palate, the wine is light-bodied with medium acidity, and good balance. White and citrus fruits abound, followed by notes of brioche and mineral. The finish is accented by the taste of a racy lime powder that was quite enjoyable. The alcohol content is 13% with a bottle price of $22.

“Good quality for the price,” Elena gave a nod of approval.

“A tad aggressive,” I paused for effect. “However, once it settled down I found this Brut enjoyable.” 

“I often enjoy Graham Beck as an aperitif,” Kayla paused to collect her thoughts. “I would also serve this wine with grilled seafood or Oysters Rockefeller.”

“Impilo,” I toasted Kayla in the Xhosa language as I refilled our glasses.

“Enkosi,” she thanked me in Zulu.” I remember you had mentioned you always wanted to learn the Zulu language.”

“I once befriended a South African tennis player by the name of Johan Kriek,” I smiled in fond reflection. “Johan spoke Afrikaans, English, German, and Zulu.”

“Don’t get him started,” Elena playfully warned. “He only knows around a dozen or so  words in Zulu.”

“But are they the right twelve words?” Kayla broke out in laughter as she brushed back her long golden hair.

For our next selection, Kayla selected a 2007 Bellingham Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc thrives in South Africa and is seen as second only to the Loire Valley.Bellingham is renown for its Old Vine Chenin Blanc. The 40 year old, high altitude vines, produce wonderfully concentrated rich fruit. In the glass, the wine is an alluring dark yellow. The nose is a wonderful concentration of rich, ripe fruit with aromas of peach, apricot, cream, and honey that fill out the bouquet. On the palate, this Chenin Blanc shows medium body, and full flavored. There are ample amounts of rich fruit that concentrate around flavors that suggest pineapple. There is also a floral edge that is followed by a nutty almond quality. The finish is creamy and pleasurable. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $15.

“I liked the fruitiness of this wine,” Elena was first to speak. “An excellent wine to serve as an aperitif.”

“The wine showed some good oak,” I was quick to break in. “I liked the subtle nutty qualities. Kayla, with what dishes would you pair this Chenin Blanc?”

“Fish pie, creamy mushroom pasta,” she paused lightly. Most any dish with a creamy white sauce.”

Our next selection is a classic that is synonymous with wines from South Africa. Kayla selected a 2008 Beyerskloof Pinotage. What exactly is Pinotage? This is a wine that is a cross between Cinsault and Pinot Noir. In the past, Pinotage had a reputation, as did most South African wines, of inconsistent quality and tasting of burnt rubber. These days, Pinotage has come of age. In the glass, our Beyerskloof is a shimmering and dense blood red. The nose is floral scented and accented with juicy red fruit, cherry, spices, topped off by ample mushrooms bearing a dusty quality. The palate is quite tannic, however, it opens up with air. We decanted the wine for a full hour. The 2008 shows medium body. The rich, sweet, red fruit is balanced with deeper dark notes of black cherry, spice, and an earthiness that provides for good balance. The finish is robust and remarkably elegant. The alcohol content is 14% with a bottle price of $15.

“I am pleasantly surprised,” Elena’s eyes crinkled as she smiled. “Plenty of good fruit and much more complex than I would have thought.” 

“The 2008 Beyerskloof has very good aging potential,” I paused momentarily. “I would say over the next 15-20 years.”

“I especially like this Pinotage with roasted meats,” Kayla paused before going on. Roast pork or more specifically, roast pork belly.”

“Is the 2008 100% Pinotage?” Elena queried? 

“Indeed it is,” Kayla openly showed her pride.

For our last selection, Kayla decided on a Morganhof Cape Late Bottled Vintage. This challenger to Portugal’s Duoro Valley is 100% Tinta Barroca grapes. In the glass, our Port is a rich amber in color. The nose is filled with aromas of black cherry, licorice, raisins, and walnuts. These scents follow through to the palate. Filled with velvety tannins, rich ripe fruit, and ample oak, the Morganhof displays its perfect balance. The finish is rich and succulent. The alcohol content is 17.5% with a bottle price of $20.

“Very good fruit on this fortified wine,” Elena moistened her lips as she began. “I particularly liked the flavor of ripe damsons.

“Definitely a Port to challenge the wines of Duoro Valley,” I was pleasurably surprised.

“I have found the Morganhof to pair best with cheese, or a hearty Cuban cigar,” Kayla began chuckling. “Elena, take it from me, this Port is at its best with chocolate pudding.”

We all broke out into laughter, when after several moments of merriment, I inquired about dinner. 

“What would you like to eat?” Kayla asked softly.

“Well,” I smiled. “You did mention that the Belthazar is also known for its steaks.”

“But that my friends, is another story …. “

California’s Formidable Cult Wines

I often receive emails asking what are some of my favorite California wines and why I don’t review more of our gems. For the record, I have a preference for Sonoma County, and a penchant for the Russian River Valley. You guessed correctly, I am passionate about Pinot Noir. With this in mind, perhaps in the near future I will introduce our readers to some of my favorite selections from Mendocino, Trinity, and Lake counties. The latter being one of my favorites, and in my opinion, California’s best kept secret.

However, this week I’d like to share my thoughts on some of California wines that have risen to sheer cult-like status. We Californians are quick to assert that Napa Valley’s Cabernet Sauvignon  is the best in the world. If price is used as the benchmark, certainly many of Bordeaux’s most well-received wines would pale in comparison. Point in fact, when comparing California cult Cabs with many classic Bordeaux selections, the French wines come across as relative bargains. Let’s take a look at some of California’s exceptional, lavish, and most expensive wines.

We begin with the formidable wines from Araujo Estate Vineyards. If terroir is everything, the wines produced in Araujo’s Eisele Vinyards best exemplify this school of thought. The northeastern part of Napa Valley excels in rich succulent grapes. Araujo produces primarily classic Bordeaux blends of immense concentration and power, yet with subtle tannins. If you enjoy a big Cab yet with just enough Syrah to complete the flavor palate, be prepared to pay a bottle price of$300-$1200 for an Abaujo Cabernet Sauvignon. Francoise Peschon is the master craftsman who has devoted his life in pursuit of producing the perfect Bordeaux blend.

The Bryant Family Vineyard also produces premium Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery is located in Pritchard Hill, and the grapes are cooled by the gentle breezes off of Lake Hennessy. Expect to pay a bottle price $600 for one of these delectable wines. That is if you can find one, as there is a waiting list. Philip Melka is only too proud of the success of his wines.

Ghost Horse Vineyards, Todd Anderson’s small-scale project, only produces a mere 75 cases per year. Rest assured that the bottle price of $1000 for this highly acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon is feasible for the true aficionado. The wines boast incredible intensity, and long lasting fruit on the palate. Todd likes to refer to his wines as the “Occult Experience.”

The Grace Family Vineyards, initially one of California’s first boutique wineries, produces only the finest premium Cabernet Sauvignon. Grace Family wines are renown for their rich textured and immensely powerful wines. Only 400 cases of these exalted wines are released each year. If you are lucky enough to find a bottle, they range in price from $700-$800.

Bill Harlan’s original goal when he began Harlan Estate was to produce super-premium wines that would rival anything from Bordeaux. Together with winemaker Bob Levy, they have done just that. Producing only 2,000 cases of incredibly opulent, fruit driven reds which can be aged for decades, Harlan Estate wines are widely sought after. Anyone who is familiar with Bob Levy’s prowess as a winemaker will not shy away from the bottle price of $800.

Hundred Acre is an estate that I know quite well. Winemaker Jayson Woodbridge has been producing some of the most exciting Cabernet in all of Napa Valley. Since their inaugural release in 2,000, Hundred Acre has taken the wine stage by storm. Receiving only critical acclaim, the wines are a rich balance of fruit, oak, and minerality. These ambrosial wines are in short supply, so do not hesitate to take advantage of the bottle price of $450-$500.

I have saved the most recognizable for last. Screaming Eagle is by far the most famous estate in the Napa Valley. Leading the way for cult winemakers, its wines are renown throughout the world. To add to their exclusivity, Screaming Eagle only produces 500 cases of extremely powerful, dense, and opulent wines. The bottle price for these delectable gems is $1500 … Priceless.

The only thing better than selling two bottles of Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon to a client from China, is when he informs you that that the second bottle is for us to enjoy. I thank the wine gods that I speak Mandarin …

“But that my friends, is another story …”

The Ouzo Effect

The lush green island of Lesbos is like no other Greek island. Though third largest of all the islands of Greece, Lesbos remains largely unaffected by mass tourism. Lesbos is the perfect getaway for those who want to experience the real Greece.

From the patio of the Cafe Vesna, I am joined by my friend and fellow sommelier, Alessia Karolides. Gazing complacently about our tranquil surroundings. The seemingly endless blue sea was quiet and calm. After a long day of exploring traditional villages and local wines, there is only one drink fitting to begin the evening’s festivities …

“Ouzo,” we erupted euphorically as we toasted each other.

Ouzo is quite simply the national drink of Greece. It is a symbol of Greek culture. For most Greeks drinking Ouzo is not only an art, it is their way of life. And if you ask any Greek where can the best Ouzo be found, there is but one answer … the island of Lesbos.

“Gregory, “ Alessia called for my attention as she poured us another round of Ouzo. “Perhaps you should explain to our readers what exactly is Ouzo.”

“Yamas,” I toasted Alessia.

The roots of Ouzo lie in tsipouro, a Greek pomace brandy. In the 14th century, monks from the Mount Athos Monastery were the leading distillers. One version of tsipouro was flavored with anise and eventually became what is known today as Ouzo. The classic Greek drink is made from a precise combination of pressed grapes, herbs, berries, anise, licorice, mint, wintergreen, fennel, and hazelnut. Ouzo is primarily served as an aperitif and when mixing Ouzo with water, it will turn whitish and opaque.

“This is because when the anise oil dissolves, it becomes invisible when mixed with alcohol. However, once the alcohol content is reduced, the essential oils transform into white crystals which you cannot see through,” Alessia flashed me an assured smile.

“Ah yes, the Ouzo Effect.”

The key to drinking Ouzo is the eating of snacks known as mezedes. These are small plates of food that are typically served while drinking. In Greece, it would not be seemly to drink Ouzo without serving several dishes of mezedes.

“The type of mezedes served with Ouzo depends primarily where you are,” Alessia paused to collect her thoughts. “Since Lesbos is famous for its seafood, I have selected, oysters on a half shell, scallops, sardines, smelt, and squid. Of course our seafood is accompanied by cucumbers, olives, feta cheese, and the usual breads.”

“It is important for our readers to understand that Ouzo has a reputation for high alcohol content. Typically, 40-46%,” Alessia flashed me a mischievous grin.

“We are drinking Ouzo Giannatsi from Plomari. I believe the alcohol content is 45%.”

This style of Ouzo is distilled in an old-fashioned wood burning still called a “kasani.” It is also very difficult to find outside of the Plomari area. Each time I leave Greece, I take home at least one bottle of Giannatsi.

Keep in mind that Ouzo has a very distinct licorice flavor. It is potent and fiery. It is not a drink for the faint of heart. Another important fact about drinking Ouzo is that it has a high sugar content. This then delays the release of alcohol in one’s system.

“Too true,” Alessia giggled lightly. “When drinking Ouzo, beware that this spirit is renown for sneaking up on it’s victims.”

Most Greeks, as does Alessia, prefer their Ouzo with water. Myself, I usually enjoy my Ouzo neat. However, since Ouzo is steadily gaining in popularity in the States, it has become quite fashionable to enjoy Ouzo cocktails.

“My only reservation about an Ouzo cocktail is that we Greeks never add ice cubes to our Ouzo, Alessia paused to swill her drink. “Perhaps we should share some recipes with Eve.”

“She would like that very much,” I flashed Alessia a wide beaming smile. “Let’s talk a little about your favorite Ouzo.”

“Ah, my favorite is Ouzo Mini. It is mild and smooth and the alcohol content is only 40%. Barbayannis, on the other hand is what my father loves to drink. This is a very famous Ouzo and the alcohol content is 46%,” Alessia chuckled softly. “I do not know if I agree with my father that it is the best, but it is most definitely the strongest,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “Plomari Arvanitas is probably the most popular Ouzo in Greece.”

“This is the Ouzo with the cork, correct?” I paused to reflect. “I also like this Ouzo. It is definitely one of my favorites.”

Now that we have peeked your curiosity, quality Ouzo can be found quite easily anywhere in the States. Some of the more popular brands include Ouzo 12, Sans Rival, Ouzo Mini, Barbayannis, All are quite enjoyable and “wallet friendly.”

Alessia giggled almost uncontrollably. “Gregory, you are such a wordsmith. ‘wallet friendly,’ I must remember to quote you.”

“There is still one facet of Ouzo that we have not discussed. Since you are Greek, this is more your area of expertise than mine.”

“Yes, you are referring to ‘Kefi.’ This is the feeling that overcomes a person and gives them the ardent desire to sing, dance, and radiate,” Alessia playfully winked.

“No doubt this euphoria is brought on by the Ouzo. In fact, I must admit that I am feeling a bit musical.”

“Ready for Sirtaki?” Alessia queried.

“I’ve got on my dancing shoes.”

“Opa!” Alessia flashed me a wide beaming smile. “I think there is a bit Greek in everyone,”

“But that my friends, is another story …

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