Starka: The Elixir of Poland’s Sarmatist Nobility

Throughout my travels, I am constantly asked two questions with regard to vodka. The first, what is my favorite vodka? The second question, where did vodka originate? The first question is easy to answer. Without a doubt, my favorite vodka is Polish Starka. The answer to the second question is not so simple.

By now, you are probably asking yourself what is Starka and from where does this unique vodka hail? History has it that Starka Vodka has been produced in Lithuania as far back as the 1400s. With the birth of a daughter, the father would fill an empty wine cask with vodka, apple and lime leaves, and seal it with bee’s wax. The cask was then buried in loose sandy soil. Years later, at the daughter’s wedding feast, the cask was dug up, and the wonderful elixir which came to be known as Starka, was served to the guests.

By the 17th century, Starka had become the favorite drink of the Sarmatist Gentry of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The name, Starka, is actually derived from the Lithuanian word, “starkus,” which is associated with birth. In 1991, I was first in introduced to Polish Starka by my friend, the Russian ballet dancer, Mikhail Baryshnikov.

Prior to 1894, there were several types of distilled spirits known as vodka. During the reign of Tsar Alexander II, it was decided that there should be one, and only one recipe for vodka. The Tsar declared a contest to be held to decide on the appropriate recipe for distilling the popular spirit. What we know today as vodka, is the recipe that won. What is unfortunate, many wonderful spirits were lost in the Tsar’s efforts to standardize vodka for tax purposes. Fortunately, Starka was saved due to the efforts of the renown Baczewski family of Lviv (Since the end of WWII, this part of Poland was ceded to Ukraine). The vodka producing dynasty was able to stem the tide, and maintain Starka’s popularity in both Lithuania and Poland. After WWII, and the domination by the Soviet Union, Starka was allowed to be produced only by Stumbras in Lithuania and Polmos Szczecin in Poland.

Lithuanian Starka follows an old tradition which dates back to 1906. It is made with rectified spirits and drinking water put through a six-stage filtration. The result is a spirit that is light brown in color, with a slight burning sensation. There are hints of oak and subtle fruit flavors. These flavors come by way of an infusion of apple and pear leaves. For my palate, Stumbras produces what I would refer to as a Starka-flavored vodka. The alcohol content is 40% with a price tag of $20.

Polish Starka is quite different altogether. It is the quintessential expression of Starka. Polmos is the sole authorized Polish producer of Starka. Polmos is an acronym for Polski Monopol Spirytusowy, “Polish Spirit Monopoly.” The traditional vodka is distilled from natural rye spirit that is distilled twice and no rectification. It is aged in oak barrels with small amounts of apple and lime leaves to add a whisper of flavor to this dry style vodka. Similar to the process of making whiskey, the resulting spirit is altogether a horse of a different color. Along with recipe differences and restrictions, the most notable difference is the aging period. Polmos Szczecin ages its Starka from 10 to 50 years. An important point that makes Polish Starka unique within the market is that its natural color is from long reaction to the oak, and not from additives. The alcohol content is 50%. Prices range from $30 for Starka aged 10 years to $2250 for the Creme de la creme that has been aged 50 years.

Russia has also launched its bid to enter this market, and Russian Starka is easily recognized by its serpentine “S” logo. This version, is vodka aged for 5 years, and filtered through birch, charcoal, and quartz sands. It is then enhanced with the addition of port, brandy, and fruit essences. Russians promote this as a spirit meant to be enjoyed chilled. The alcohol content is 43% with a price tag of $35.

In recent years, such countries as Bulgaria, Kazakhstan, and Latvia has also entered the lucrative Starka market. Unfortunately, these countries have preferred the use of rectified spirits and flavored additives. The resulting spirits pale in comparison to the traditional Polish style Starka, and are not sold in the USA.

Now for an answer to the second question that I am often asked, where did vodka originate? It is believed by many historians that vodka was first distilled in the city of Poltava. At that time, the city was under Polish rule. Some years later Poland ceded this territory to Imperial Russia. Today, Poltava lies in the heart of Ukraine. The answer, I suppose, is based on national pride and politics. I doubt that over time, an answer agreeable to all concerned is in possible … “But that my friends, is a different story … “

 

 

 

Is it Brandy, Grappa, or Vodka?

Since the rise in popularity with France’s Ciroc, a myriad of grape vodkas have been unleashed onto the spirits market. This proved most fortunate for brokers such as myself. With the opening of an entirely new market, many possibilities could be thrown into the mix. I for one, began preaching the virtues of Georgian Chacha to any importer who would listen. After all, Chacha is the “original grape vodka.”

Today we will explore the world of clear grape brandy from the former Yugoslavia. In Croatia, Montenegro, and Serbia, clear rectified spirits are not referred to as vodka. Nor are they seen as Grappa. In this part of the world, grape vodka is celebrated as one of the many prolific brandies produced throughout the region.

How do Grappa, grape vodka, and clear grape brandy differ? Grappa is an Italian, grape- based pomace spirit. It is made by distilling the skins, pulp, seeds, and stems (pomace), that are left over after a pressing of grapes for wine. Grappa’s flavor is similar to wine, however, it depends entirely on the type and quality of grapes used. The alcohol content generally ranges from from 35%-60%. Grape vodka is clear and strong. The minimum alcohol content is 40%. It is distilled from only quality grapes. In the Republic of Georgia, both Saperavi and Tsinandali grapes are preferred. For my palate, I go with the bigger and bolder spirit that is distilled from Saperavi. French Ciroc is noted for its blending of “snap frost” grapes, Mauzac Blanc from the Gallic region, and Ugni Blanc from the Cognac region. For those of you who follow my column regularly, are aware that Mauzac Blanc makes an excellent sparkling wine. California distillers, on the other hand, prefer blending  French Colombard and Chardonannay from the state’s Central Valley. If you are curious, give Roth Vodka a sampling. With a bottle price of only $30, I am sure that you will be more than pleasantly surprised. Now that we are clear (pun intended), on Grappa and Grape Vodka, we will now move on to clear brandy.

Let’s start with Serbia. I like to fancy myself as an eminent exponent on Slivovitz. When the topic of Serbian Slivovitz comes up, I can go on endlessly on the virtues of plum brandy, and how Serb distillers have mastered the crafting of this indelible spirit. Do keep in mind that along with some very good wines, Serbia also produces an array of notable fruit brandies.

Up first, Flores Serbian Grape Brandy. This family owned distillery which is located in Divostin, dates back as far as 1803. Since then, Flores has been regarded as one of the country’s preeminent distillers of premium fruit spirits. On the nose, the brandy is lightly aromatic and mild. On the palate, it is creamy, smooth and delicate. The finish is mild and delectable with next to no trace of burn. This is a brandy that is meant to be enjoyed neat and sipped slowly. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $55.

Traveling south we come to the break away republic of Kosovo; Kosova as the locals prefer to refer to their country. The country’s traditional spirit is known as Darda. This crystal clear brandy is distilled from only the finest Rahovec grapes. This region is Kosova’s most prestigious viticultural area. The nose is lightly aromatic and inviting. On the palate Darda is soft, smooth, and a joy to drink. The finish is mild and pleasant with no burn. Darda is the perfect aperitif. The alcohol content is 43% with a bottle price of $30.

For our next selection, let’s move on to Croatia. The cuisine from this land along the northern Adriatic Sea is among my favorites. Croatian wines are delectable, and the Maraska Komovica Brandy is superb. What separates this clear brandy from the others? Maraska Komovica is distilled from “mare,” over fermented grapes. It is considered by Croats as their traditional spirit and served in snifters. The nose, though only lightly scented, dispels more fruit aromas than other clear brandies. On the palate, Maraska Komovica is smooth and mellow. Since it spends some time in oak, it if fuller and creamier than other clear brandies. Maraska Komovica takes well to the natural warming by the hands and shows its character and finesse well. The finish is smooth with hints of fruit and no burn. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $35.

In this part of the Adriatic Montenegro is one of my favorite countries. For the past couple of years I have been debating whether or not I should buy a beach house and just laze about over the summers. It is only fitting  since I especially enjoy Montenegrin wines, I conclude with unique spirit that has long been a favorite with the locals. For our last selection, I chose a clear brandy from Montenegro. Kruna, which translates as “Crown,” is a distinctly Montenegrin spirit. It is distilled in small volume copper vats which has been the tradition in Montenegro for centuries. The process is slow, allowing for good cooling. This is done to achieve a better quality spirit. On the nose, there is the distinct aroma of menthol. This comes from the special Vranec grapes used in making Kruna. Though the palate is fresh and light, Kruna is indeed an acquired taste. The finish is crisp with just a bit of burn. Kruna is most often served as an aperitif. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $30.

If you have not tried any of these spirits, I highly recommend that you give them a taste. They are easy and most enjoyable on the palate. Better still, they are readily available in in the States.

On a final note, I would add that both clear grape brandies and vodkas are meant to be drunk neat. When used in cocktails, I feel that the spirit is lost in the mix … “But that my friends, is another story … “

A Simple Guide to Rosé Wine Styles

Remember Mateus or Lancers? If your exposure to wine was similar to mine, these two Portuguese wines played an integral part of your earliest days of drinking wine. However, did you know that once introduced onto the world market, both wines set sales records in both Europe and the United States?

Whether you know this style of wine as rosé, rosado, or rosato, we are talking about one of the oldest styles of wine. Its color ranges from a pale onion to a vivid purple. Of course, coloring is dependent on the grape varietal used and the wine making technique. These techniques include, skin contact, saignee, and blending.

The red wines of antiquity were much closer in color to today’s rosé. This was because the  earliest wine making techniques involved pressing soon after harvest. The ancient Greeks, for one, preferred the lighter colored, and fruitier style of red wines.

Once we get to the Middle Ages, pale clarets from Bordeaux became all the rage. It is also interesting to point out that at this time, pink Champagnes were favored over today’s drier sparkling white wines.

Let’s start with a Grenache Rosé. This style of wine is often fruity. In the glass it is typically a light coral and striated with brilliant hues. The nose is floral with aromas of dried roses, sage, and light red berry fruit. Its touch is light on the palate with soft acidity. Soft flavors of strawberry, orange, and mineral notes, come through nicely. This is a good wine to serve slightly chilled and paired with Thai dishes like Shrimp and Pad Thai. Give a 2008 Chateau d’ Aqueria Tavel a try. The bottle price is only $18.

Next, let’s take a look at Sangiovese Rosé. This style is fruity. In the glass, the wine is particularly inviting as it casts a light red copper glow. The nose is filled with pleasant aromas of fresh strawberry, melon, peach, and just a whisper of roses. On the palate, the wine is light in body and high in acidity. It is at its best when served slightly chilled, and paired with prawns or a Crab or Shrimp Louie Salad. If we go Californian, my pick is a 2012 Stolpman Rosé. It is blended with a bit of Grenache to come up with a wine that is bright and vibrant. The bottle price is only $15.

Moving right along, we arrive at Tempranillo Rosé. This style is known for its savoriness. In the glass, it is usually a pale pink. Though not particularly inviting to the eye, do not be so quick to pass judgment on this wine. The nose is vivacious. It permeates of herbs and peppercorn. Rounding out the bouquet are aromas of watermelon and strawberry. On the palate, Tempranillo Roséis fresh, full flavored and loaded with strawberry and a host of red fruits. This style of Roséis best paired with light fish dishes, and typical springtime savoir faire. Give the 2013 Vina Albali a try. It is also blended with Graciano and Grenache. Such a combination has resulted in a wine that is full of floral notes which transcend on to the palate. With a bottle price of only $12, this is a wine not to be over looked.

Pressing on (pun intended), we come to Syrah Rosé. This is another style of Rosé that is known for its savoriness. In the glass, the wine is typically a deeper ruby in color. The nose is dominated by aromas of strawberry, cherry, and peach, with hints of white pepper, and finally suggestions of green olive. The palate is much bolder, with acidity, and lively fruit. This style of Rosé is rich flavors of cherry and strawberry. I like to serve Syrah Rosé  with fun foods; pizza, burgers, chili, and summer picnics. A particular favorite of mine is a 2007 Three Saints Santa Ynez Valley Syrah. A steal, with a bottle price of only $18.

Moving right along, let’s have a look at Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé. The style is savory and most often made in the Saignee method. In the glass, the resulting wine is a deep ruby red. The nose is laced with ample aromas of roses and fresh strawberry. The palate is light with soft flavors of cherry, black currant, pepper, and spice. If you are a Cab lover, be forewarned that this style of Roséis very high in acidity. This is because most Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ever see any oak. I often enjoy Hardy’s Crest Rosé from Australia. It goes great with antipasto and well worth the bottle price of $20.

At length, we arrive at Zinfandel Rosé. Also known as “White Zinfandel,” this style of sweet Rosé is considered the dreaded wine among wine snobs. However, here are some interesting facts about “White Zin.” It is perhaps the most popular Rosé wine sold in the United States. White Zinfandel actually accounts for 10% of all US wine sales. Lastly, roughly 85% of Zinfandel production is geared toward the Rosé market. In the glass, the wine is often a silvery pink to a light coral. The nose is fruit filled and typically dominated strawberry and peach. The palate is medium to high in acidity and moderately sweet. White Zinfandel is loaded with flavors of strawberry, cantaloupe, sweet melon, and hints of cotton candy. The wine is best served ice cold and paired with exotic sweet and spicy dishes from Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand. With a bottle price of only $10, Berenger is a good buy.

Now we move to a much more savory and rich style of Rosé wine, Tavel from Cotes due Rhone. This style of Rosé is reputed to have the favorite of famed novelist, Ernest Hemingway. This is an unusually dry wine for a Rosé. Overall, it has more body and structure than most Rosé, and its character is more that of a red wine. Travel is primarily a blend of Grenache and Cinsault. In the glass, the wine is a salmon pink in color. The nose is filled with aromas of summer fruits dominated by strawberry, pomegranate, and light nutty overtones. This wine does age well, and with time, the nutty notes become richer and much more pronounced. On the palate, the wine is quite refreshing, low in acidity, and high in alcohol content. The dominant flavors are strawberry, pomegranate, cherry, followed by light herbal notes. This wine is at its best when served as an aperitif or with spicy foods. One of my particular favorites is the 2011 Guigal Tavel Roséwhich has a bottle price of $20.

Our next style of Rosé is from Provence and characterized as fruity and lean. It is a blend of Grenache, Cinault, Syrah, and Mourvedre. In the the glass its color is a pale pink. The nose is delightfully filled with aromas of strawberry, watermelon, and rose petals. On the palate this Rosé is very fresh, clean, crisp, and dry. Though full-bodied, it is lower in alcohol content, yet losing none of its impact. The mouthfeel is delightful and nicely textured. Good fruit abounds with flavors of strawberry and melon dominating. The finish is stony, with some minerality. Give the 2012 Commanderie de Peyrasol de Provence Roséa try. With a bottle price of $25, this is definitely a food wine that will pair with most dishes.

Moving on, our next style of Rosé, Mourvedre, is fruity and floral. In the glass the wine is a pale coral. On the nose, this style of Rosé is very floral with aromas of violets and rose petals prevailing. On the palate the wine is nicely structured with good balance. There are enjoyable flavors of red plums, cherries, herbs, and a whisper of smoke. Mourvedre Rosépairs nicely with most Mediterranean dishes. I often serve it with grilled lamb or grilled salmon steaks. Both pair nicely with a 2012 Les Vignobles Gueissard Bandol which has a bottle price of $25.

Our last style of of Rosé is delicately fruity. What else could be expected from such an elegant grape as Pinot Noir. In the glass this Pinot befits its name. In French, it means pink and refers to the primary flower of romance. The nose is soft and subtle with aromas of crabapple, watermelon, raspberry, and strawberry. On the palate, the wine is earthy, but very elegant. Though crisp and dry, this style of Rosé is rich in fruit, with flavors of raspberry and plum prevailing. The finish smooth and pleasurable. For that great summer wine, try a 2011 Yealand Estate Pinot Noir from New Zealand. The bottle of price is only $25 and it pairs quite nicely with a goat cheese salad, squid, or fresh crab.

“Hmm, fresh crab. Sounds delicious. Since I know which wine, the remaining question would be the crab … Soft or hard shell? But that my friends, is a different story … “