Quality Wines from Turkey?

I know you probably thought that there is no such thing as a quality wine from Turkey. The country is famous for it’s Raki, kebabs, baklava, and smoking Hookah pipes. Today I am in Istanbul with my friend and fellow sommelier, Dilara Yilmaz. We will be sharing some wonderful wines that are readily available in the States.

“Gregory, I would like to begin by saying that we Turks have been producing exceptional wines since antiquity. The Hittites were known for their wines and popularized them throughout the Mediterranean world,” Dilara paused for effect. “Turkey is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world.”

“I was quite surprised when I first learned that there are more than 600 indigenous wine varietals in Turkey.”

“It depends on who you ask,” she flashed me an even grin. “I believe that number can be doubled.”

“Perhaps,” my response was flat and without emotion. “There are only 60 grape varietals that are available commercially so this is where we will start.”

Our table had been set with an assortment of mezes, hamsi, a Black Sea anchovy, kebabs, olives, rice, baklava, and local honey.

“A meal for a the Hittite king, Hatusili,” I nodded my approval.

“I am also quite sure that our first wine will also meet with your approval.” Dilara presented me with a bottle of 2003 Kavaklidere Okuzgozu d’ Elazig.

The standards for Turkish wines were set in the mid-1900s by the Kavaklidere and Doluca vineyards. These vineyards are located in the eastern part of the Anatolian plateau. The name for the Okuzgozu grape means “ox eye” in Turkish.

“Serefe,” we toasted each other.

Our first wine was totally different from what I had expected. There were bright cherry aromas. The flavor was crisp and slightly tart with a mild finish. Much lighter than what I had expected.

Dilara sensed that I was mildly amused and poured me another glass. I like this light wine very much,” she smiled. “It is slightly reminiscent of a yellow Merlot.”

“I was expecting a much bolder wine,” I paused as I savored the Okuzgozu. “Something like a Spanish red.”

“Interesting, Dilara smiled softly. “Okuzgozu pairs perfectly with Turkish cuisine.”

“Indeed it does,” I nodded in approval. “I would have thought that with the robust cuisine of the area, our meal would call for a more full-bodied wine.”

“Okuzgozu is a distinct grape with different characteristics,” Dilara assured me. “It is a wine befitting Turkey. A wine that is apropos for a land that lies at the crossroads of East and West.”

“What is our next selection?”

Dilara flashed me a wide beaming grin. “A 2007 Doluca Kalecik Karasi.”

This wine emphasizes the unique characteristics of the Kalecik Karasi grapes. The varietal is quite fruity and a favorite among the Anatolian grapes. I found our Doluca to be easy to drink, smooth, and medium-bodied.

“Yes, a very easy wine to drink. I also find the Kalecik Karasi to be the most aromatic of Doluca’s wines.”

“I agree,” pausing to savor the wine. “Kalecik Karasi invokes the aromas of figs, roses, and strawberries. Indeed a very charming wine.”

“I would recommend this wine with most grilled, steamed, or creamy-sauced fish dishes,” she paused for my response.

“Yes, of course, “ I nodded in approval. “Grilled or roasted white meat with a cream sauce would also pair nicely.”

“I would also serve this wine at about 60 degrees fahrenheit,” Dilara paused to collect her thoughts. “I would also recommend decanting the wine about 30 minutes prior to serving.”

“Nicely done,” I was most pleased with her assessment of the Doluca Kalecik Karasi. “What is next?’

“A real throat burner,” Dilara seemed quite amused with herself. “I have selected a Bogazkere. The name translates as ‘throat burner’ in Turkish.”

I quickly surveyed the botltle of 2008 Pendore Bogazkere (Bow-aahz-keh-reh), and nodded my approval. “An excellent choice.”

Dilara smiled enthusiastically. “I know you are fond of Tannat and I believe you will find Bogazkere somewhat reminiscent.”

On the nose our Pendore Bogazkere was rich with the pleasing aromas of black cherry, raspberry, blackberry, black mulberry, pepper, cloves, eucalyptus, tobacco, leather, pine forest, dark chocolate, and licorice. The wine itself was very dark in color, full-bodied, dense tannins and a complex flavor profile. “I think that our Bogazkere would do nicely with a bit of age.”

“I agree,” Dilara replied flatly. “Wines from the Bogazkere strike a nice balance with a bit of aging.”

“I would pair this wine with spicy meat dishes, kebabs, and BBQs.”

“Have you had our local speciality, Tandir?” Dilara queried.

“I love slow roasted lamb.”

“Bogazkere goes nicely with Tandir,” She smiled widely. “I also enjoy this wine with intensely flavored cheese.”

“Now there’s a thought,” I grinned with anticipation.

“Flavored cheese?”

“Nope. I was thinking more of slow roasted lamb.”

Leb-l Derya Restaurant,” we laughed in unison.”

“But that my friends is another story …

Unique Swiss Wines

The tradition of wine and viticulture is very old in Switzerland. Dating back to the Roman era, highly prized wines were being produced throughout the country. On a recent archaeological dig, a Celtic tomb dating back to the 2nd century BCE was unearthed in Valais. The tomb belonged to woman and among her contents was a ceramic bottle, labeling wine as its contents. In the Celtic era, it was quite common to offer wine to the dead. In the century that followed, Roman style amphorae wines began being produced throughout the region.

I have been traveling throughout the Swiss Canton of Valais with friend and fellow sommelier, Celine Huber. Valais is a lovely area in the upper Rhone Valley which bestrides the borders of both Italy and France. Our destination is the city of Sion to enjoy some of Switzerland’s unique wines, and a particular favorite of both Celine and I, Vin des glaciers.

Chasselas is the dominant grape variety in Valais. Chasselas typically produces elegant concentrated white wines that are full-bodied, dry, and fruity. With the ability to age well, vintage wines tend to show more honeyed and nutty flavors which gradually take on a golden hue that is characteristic older wines. Ever popular with the local population, Chasselas is the most important, and widely planted grape variety in Switzerland.

Our first selection, Robert Gilliard les Murettes Fendant 2007 is the benchmark for this ancient Valraisan variety, while the name of Robert Gilliard is steeped in tradition. On the eye, our Fendant Les Murettes is a pale straw yellow. On the nose, it is floral and citrusy, with notes of lime and fresh fruits. On the palate, their is a wonderful mineral character that is crisp and intense. The finish was also clean and crisp. This Chasselas has an alcohol content of 11.8% and a price tag of $28. We enjoyed our wine with an assorted cheese platter.

“I would also serve Chasselas primarily with fish,” Celine paused to collect her thoughts. “If memory serves correctly, the last time you were here, we enjoyed Chasselas with sushi.”

“Indeed we did,” a broad smile filled my face. Over all, this wine is at its best when served with appetizers.”

Amigne is a white grape variety grown predominantly in the Valais region for the past two thousand years. Amigne produces wines that are typically full-bodied and with great aromatic complexity, while scents of citrus and stone fruits prevail. Wines grown in the village of Vetroz are labeled Grand Cru de Vetroz. These select wines use a technique of drying the grapes before pressing. This adds to the concentration of flavors and a sweeter wine. Rest assured that the delicate aroma of citrus is not at all lost with this technique. In fact, in the drier styles of Grand Cru de Vetroz, citrus fragrances abound.

With most Amigne wines there is also the delightful taste of almond on the palate. These wines typically age well and are often drunk between the ages of 5-10 years.

Our next selection , Serge Roh Les Ruinettes Amigne de Vetroz Grand Cru 2006 proved to be wonderfully silky, honeyed with good acidity. This semi-sweet wine is full-bodied. It is a pale yellow on the eye. The nose is quite floral with an array herbs and citrus fruits. On the palate the initial contact is rich in flavor and strongly accented with a generous dose of minerality and finishing lightly with a slight flavor of almonds. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a price tag of $40.

“I also liked the slight buttery notes to this Amigne,” Celine nodded her approval.

“This is a nice wine for a pick me up on that warm summer day,” I flashed her a quick grin. “Fruit and nuts would also pair nicely.”

“Precisely,” Celine smiled softly. “I often enjoy Amigne with fruits and or nuts, and of course, select cheeses.”

Cornalin du Valais, which is indigenous to Switzerland, is an interesting grape and much more complicated than one would think. According to UC Davis researchers who conducted DNA profiling, established that Cornalin du Valais is actually an offspring of Petite Rouge and Mayolet. Yet it still gets more complicated as these grapes are not native to Switzerland. They are believed to be native to the Valle d’Aosta region of Italy. UC Davis also concludes that Cornalin d’Astote is in fact an offspring of Rouge du Pays, another name for Swiss Cornalin du Valais.

“Gregory, I think you have definitely confused our readers,” Celine playfully teased. “Let’s drink some wine.”

Our next selection, Cornalin Du Valais 2011 hails from the steep slopes of the Alpine Valley. On the eye, our wine is an intriguing dark cherry red with purple hues. The bouquet is filled with rich aromas of sour cherry, red berries, subtle spices and lightly fragrant violets. The wine is full-bodied with hints of spicy clove and fresh berry on the palate. Cornalin Du Valais has a fine tannin structure and a complexity both Celine and I enjoyed. The alcohol content is 13.3% and a price tag of $23.

“I liked this wine,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “However, it could do with a bit more aging.”

“What is your window?” Celine queried.

“Five years, no more than six,” I said with assurance. “This wine will only get better with the proper aging.”

“As for pairing Cornalin,” Celine paused on the moment. “Veal, calf’s liver, rabbit, venison, and spicy cheeses would all go nicely.”

Over the years, the Swiss have developed a number of unique specialty wines from grapes rarely found outside of Switzerland. An absolute must with both Celine and I is Vin des Glaciers. This is a sherry style of wine made from a blend Reze white grapes, Ermitage (Marsanne), and Petit Arvine. The local people of Valais utilize a solera system of wine storage. Oak barrels are often used however, it is more common to find the wines stored in larch wood. This is the same wood that is popular in the building of Swiss homes. To add to the wine’s allure, it is seldom bottled, but rather drunk directly from the cask and often in tankards. Today we will be visiting local vintner Jean Vouradoux for a private tasting.

“But that my friends, is another story …”

The Champagnes of Bond … James Bond

The opulent grandeur of Vienna’s Imperial Hotel is unrivaled. This renown and luxurious palace transports its guests back to a time when the Hapsburgs reigned supreme. Typical guests include royalty, presidents, the super rich, and of course, Bond … James Bonmd.

What could be more appropriate than a Champagne tasting at a favorite haunt of our beloved hero, Agent 007. I happened to be in Vienna on work assignment, and Bond has not been here since Timothy Dalton took up the mantel of the dashing secret agent in the 1987 film, “The Living Daylights.”

Keeping with the Bond tradition, I am flanked by two lovely ladies and fellow sommeliers, Annelle Koller and Clara Haas. Both are graduates of Luxembourg’s renown European School for Sommelier, and in charge of the Restaurant Imperial’s prestigious wine collection. I would also add that they both know Champagne, and over the past few years, Annelle and Clara have increased immensely, my appreciation for the “wine of kings and lovers.”

“I don’t know about Bond, but it is always a pleasure to drink with Alonzo … Gregory Alonzo, Annelle toyed playfully. “Since you recently wrote an article on Champagne with your Ukrainian girlfriends, I thought we would focus on the wines 007 has imbibed throughout the series.”

“We have some wines and stories that we know you will find most enjoyable,” Clara’s eyes brightened into a smile.

“Garcon,” Annelle called for our server. “Caviar, Royal Beluga.”

“Ah, from the north Caspian,” I said with great delight.

“Gregory,” Clara paused for effect. “Annelle and I thought it only appropriate to share with the readers some basic Champagne etiquette.”

“Also to put to rest some Champagne myths,” Annelle was quick to add.

Never over chill Champagne; although it should never be served warm. It is worse for it to be icy or nearly-frozen. For this reason it is important to never under fill the ice bucket. All you will wind up doing is chilling only half the bottle. It is appropriate to add cold water to the ice cubes to ensure that the bottle is well submerged.

“This also makes it easier to put the bottle back into the bucket,” Clara added.

“Never try to chill two bottles in a bucket,” Annelle readied our Royal Beluga. “It is best to leave to leave the second bottle in the refrigerator in an insulated container.”

“As for the glasses,” Clara called for my attention. “Never chill them ahead of time, either by adding ice cubes or crushed ice. This only has a negative effect on the release of the bubbles and the bouquet.”

“Icing the glasses,” Annelle shook her head in disbelief, “We may be celebrating, Bond’s preferences in Champagne,” she chuckled lightly under her breath. “We are certainly not making a martini.”

“Just a quick comment or two before we begin with our first Champagne,” Clara paused on the moment. “Never hide the label and wrap the bottle like a newborn baby. This contemptible practice actually began in Parisian nightclubs.”

“Really?” I was taken aback. “Obviously a devious way to serve cheap Champagne and not reveal to the customer that he or she was being charged for a more expensive bottle of bubbly.”

“Precisely,” Clara nodded in agreement.

“Keep in mind that you want to have a towel readily available to wipe off any excess water from the bottle as you draw it from the ice bucket,” Annelle lightly patted the back of my hand. “Ready for our first selection?”

Our first champagne was a Tattinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blanc 1998.

Bond of the novels had a proclivity for Tattinger. It is also reported that this Champagne was the favorite of Bond’s creator, Ian Fleming. In the 1963 Bond film, “From Russia with Love,” Sean Connery is seen chilling a bottle of Blanc de Blanc while in a tryst with Sylvia Trench. Later in the film, Bond and Tatiana Romanova enjoy a Blanc de Blanc with dinner.

Appropriately presented in an antique-style bottle of XV111th century design, Tattinger has succeeded once again in producing a superb Champagne. Our 1998 vintage was rich in Chardonnay flavors of ripe peach and nectarine. The wine has a formidable structure and is the ultimate expression of the Tattinger style. Truly a Champagne of great refinement, elegance, and delicacy. For me, the 1998 is clean and aristocratic.

“I like how finely balanced, the 1998 is on the palate,” Clara paused as she savored the wine. “Fine crisp acidity and subtle mineral notes.”

“Along with a toasty finish that is lasting and complex,” Annelle nodded in approval.

Any fan of the Bond franchise is quick to point out the two other prestigious Champagnes have dominated the series, Dom Perignon and Bollinger.

Sean Connery’s Bond had a penchant for odd year vintages of Dom Perignon. In the 1962 film, “Dr. No,” the good doctor cautions 007 not to break a vintage 1955 in some futile attempt to escape. Bond mutters back that he preferred the ’53. Apparently Marilyn Monroe would agree with our dashing secret agent. The blond bombshell often praised the 1953 Dom Perignon as her Champagne of choice.

Our next selection was a Moet & Chandon Dom Perignon Brut 1998.

This Dom is a beauty. It is creamy, gentle, all finesse and elegance. It is perfectly balanced and harmonious. The 1998 has been repeatedly recommended to me by my colleagues because it has no rough edges. I’m not sure if it will be considered an all-time great Dom Perignon, but I am sure that it will age very well.

I agree,” Clara was quick to comment. “The 1998 has wonderful presentation and quite flavorful.”

“I like its clean, non-acid flavor as well,” Anelle’s eyes crinkled into a smile. “This Champagne is simply marvelous.”

The short interlude with George Lazenby as the sophisticated secret agent saw no change in Bond preference for the bubbly. In the 1969 film, “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service,” Lazenby orders ’57 Dom Perignon. Once again Bond displays a preference for odd years. This actually comes the director of the early Bond films, Terence Young. Terence was quite fond of Dom Perignon and these little idiosyncratic touches were added by he and Sean Connery.

With the release in 1973 of “Live and Let Die,” we see Bond … James Bond moving in a completely different direction. Not only has Roger Moore taken up 007’s Walther PPK, this Bond prefers Bollinger. Following suite, Timothy Dalton and Pierce Brosnan all seemed to have a proclivity for Bollinger RD. Once Daniel Craig entered the franchise, he too continued the love affair with Bollinger. However, the latest 007 prefers Grand Annee.

Our last wine was a Bollinger Grande Annee 2002.

I make it no secret that Bollinger RD has long been my Champagne of choice. For me, Bollinger is Champagne. It is richly fruited with bold yeasty notes, yet with an elegance and finesse that is typical of the brand’s superior vintage wines. I found our 2002 Grand Annee to be quite a stunning and noble wine. This Champagne delivers and will be highly sought after.

“I like the toasty notes of Bollinger,” Clara paused for emphasis. “It is definitely a man’s champagne, yet with just enough of a hint at subtlety that women will find most appealing. A flawless Champagne.”

“I drink a lot of Bollinger, especially when I am with Gregory,” Annelle flashed me a warm smile. “I find our Grande Annee to be just beautiful. It is flawless, precise, and a sheer joy. It is the art of wine in one of its most perfect forms.”

“Bond did not say this, in fact it was Madame Lily Bollinger. However, I feel it an appropriate way to conclude our our tasting, I flashed Anelle and Clara a wide beaming grin.

“I drink Champagne when I am happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it when I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty of course.”

“Touche,” Annelle and Clara chuckled in unison.

“I guess the only remaining question is dinner,” I paused on the moment. “Austrian or French … But that my friends is another story …”

Waltzing with Austrian Wines

The sheer elegance of Vienna’s Restaurant Imperial is awe inspiring. Peering around my opulent surroundings, I half anticipated a full orchestra playing a variety of popular waltzes. After all, Vienna is acclaimed as the “city of music.”

Today I am once again joined by my friends and fellow sommeliers, Annelle Koller and Clara Haas. Today we will be sampling some of Austria’s renown and most delectable wines.

“Ladies, what surprises do you have in store for us today,” I asked with anticipation.

We have three lovely wines from our indigenous grapes to share with our readers,” Annelle’s tone was almost whimsical.

The average wine consumer is most likely not aware that Austria produces brilliant, world class dry white wines. They are often made from Riesling and the hardy Gruner Veltliner grape which dominates the country’s viticultural regionsb. The wines produced have a reputation of being food-friendly and intended to be drunk young. Another reason that the average consumer may not yet be aware of Austrian wines is the country simply does not produce that much. Rest assured that Austria’s viticultural history dates back some 4,000 years.

Our first selection was a Geyerhof Gaisberg 1ste Lage 2010.

This wine is produced by the Geyerhof Winery of the Kremstal region. This area, south of the Danube, is one of Austria’s lesser known yet lush viticultural regions. This is definitely not your typical Gruner Vetliner. Although it is a dry wine, its richness gives it a pleasant sensation. Master wine maker, Ilse Maier has brought to life a delightful wine filled with white spices, honey, and fruit flavors. An overall intense wine at 13.5% alcohol.

“Mmm, I agree,” Clara said as she smacked her lips. “I especially like the crisp finish.”

“Very nice pineapple and ripe apricot fruit,” Annelle’s expression softened into a smile. “Nicely balanced.”

“A very poised wine indeed,” Clara was quick to add. “The way this wine is laced with minerals, I would pair our Gruner Veltliner with most white fish and pastas with white sauce.”

“Gregory,” Annelle called for my attention. You know Ilse Meir, yes?”

“We’ve met and I’ve visited the winery, but I do not know her as well either you or Clara. Perhaps my next trip we can travel to Kremstal and visit some of the local wineries.”

“I’d also like that very much,” Annelle gave me a reassuring smile. I know your proclivity for organic wines, so it would be well worth the trip,” Annelle said flatly.

Our next group of wines were equally as interesting and impressive. Two very popular Ice Wines, “Eiswein” in German. Ice Wine is a type of dessert wine. What makes Ice Wine unique, the wine has been produced from grapes that have been frozen while still on the vine. Since the sugars do not freeze, this allows for a more concerted and delightfully sweet wine. It is important to note that unlike Sauternes and Tokaji, Ice Wine grapes should not be affected by “Botrytis cinerea” the “noble rot.”

“Gregory,” Clara beckoned for my attention. “I have selected an excellent Eiswein to be tasted next. A Rosenhof Orion 2009. It is also of the Gruner Veltliner variety.”

This wine hails from Illmitz, Austria’s sweet wine paradise. It is crafted from grapes of the Burgenland, one of Rosenhof’s premier appellations. What is interesting about this wine is that the grapes have been picked at night. That is correct, under the stars, hence the name “Orion.”

“I like that our Orion features exceptionally complex fruit flavors,” Clara said with delight.

“This wine also pairs nicely with an assortment of cheeses,” Annelle smiled as she nibbled daintily at piece of Gouda cheese.

“Let’s not forget nuts,” I laughed heartily as I scooped up a good portion of macadamia nuts. “They bring out the wine’s apricot flavors.”

Our next wine was a Rosenhof Blaufrankisch Eiswein 2005.

This is a very special wine and an absolute rarity. The flavors of this rose wine made from Blaufrankisch grapes, is on the exotic side. Our 2005 had an intense fragrance and a flavor that awakens the senses.

“I also feel that the high level of acidity refreshes the palate and stimulates the appetite,” Clara paused to collect her thoughts as she swilled her wine. “If you serve it with toasted salty nuts, anchovies or black olives, the wine’s fruit flavors are enhanced by the salt.”

“I agree,” Annelle’s eyes crinkled into a smile. “I should think that an antipasto plate would go nicely.”

“Or even cold soup,” I said with a grin.

“Cold soup?” Both Clara and Annelle erupted euphorically.

“Since when do Americans eat cold soup,” Annelle struggled to contain herself.

“We don’t,” I struggled to keep my composure. “And you Europeans say we Americans do not understand irony.”

Austria is rapidly becoming a popular wine country and one of my favorites. Gruner Veltliner is gaining more of the attention it deserves. I love the fact that it produces expressive white wines which often have a distinct peppery character along with a subtle hint of honey and fruit. Wines that are food friendly and a capacity to age. As for the Ice Wines, very versatile. These wines can be served as an aperitif, during the main course, and as a dessert wine.

“Gregory,” Are you up for a new experience?” Annelle said with a wink.

“Surprise me,” I replied with anticipation.

“Heuriger,” Annelle playfully replied.

Sensing my bewilderment, Clara explained. “Heuriger is a tavern where wine-growers serve the most recent year’s wine and we are allowed to drink.”

“We can then experience Gemutlichkeit,” Annelle laughed softly.

“Gemutlichkeit?” I queried.

“This is a cheerful and complacent mood brought on by a most pleasant situation,” Annelle gently stroked the back of my hand.

“Gemutlichkeit it is,” My tone was now quite jovial. “But that my friends is another story …”