What are Some Popular Champagnes in Russia?

It was a cold snowy night, much colder than is typical for Saint-Petersburg this time of year. My dates, Larisa and Anastasia, decided it was much too cold to drink anything but champagne.

As we entered the Astoria Hotelʼs stylish Kandinsky Bar, I greeted the sommelier and with a Bond-esque swagger and ordered, “Bollinger … Bollinger RD.”
The Astoria is a beautiful hotel that was first built in 1912. A few years ago, it was completely restored to its original opulence. With such elegant surroundings, and the fact that I speak Russian, I was transcended into a world long since gone.

In almost the same instant, Anastasia brought me back to reality when she questioned why I ordered Bollinger. Before I could utter a sound, Larisa smiled, “Our Grisha is in a Bond mood.” She then quickly ordered Beluga caviar. “Make sure it is from the northern Caspian, we would not want to upset our Grisha.”

Once our wine arrived, I proposed a toast. “The first glass is for thirst. The second for joy. The third for delight. And the fourth, the fourth for folly.”

The 1999 Bollinger RD was served to perfection at 42 degrees Fahrenheit. For me, there is no equivalent in champagne to Bollingerʼs powerful and savory wines.  The aromas are both delicate and complex gathering a style that is uniquely its own. On the palate, the wine is complex with excellent depth of flavor.

“True,” Anastasia smiled. “However, you Americans drink champagne too cold. I find that 47 degrees Fahrenheit is most appropriate.”

With a quick wink I reminded them both that I was educated at Luxembourgʼs European School for Sommeliers. Pity none of my American educated friends were here to spark a debate.

I have come to know Larisa and Anastasia quite well over the past couple of years. Both are sommeliers and graduates of Saint-Petersburgʼs prestigious “School of Sharbatova.” And since Russian ladies prefer to drink champagne, I couldnʼt be in better company. Tonight … tonight we are on a mission to share with you a few of the most popular champagnes in Russia.

With a broad grin Anastasia ordered a bottle of Louis Roederer. “Iʼm Russian, there is only one champagne for me.”

Traditionally champagne was made as a sweet sparkling wine. However in 1874 Madame Louise Pommery introduced the first commercially successful dry champagne
which was coined, “Brut Nature.” Success was due primarily to the British penchant for dryer wines.

Since Tsar Peter the Great first introduced champagne to his countrymen, Russia consumes more bubbly than any country in the world. In 1876, Tsar Alexander ll commissioned what is considered by most to be the first prestige cuvee. Fearing assassination, the Tsar required the bottles to be clear and flat bottomed. He wanted to see the bubbles and make sure no bombs were hidden within. Louis Roederer commissioned a Flemish glass maker for the task of creating the now famous champagne bottle we all know as “Cristal.”

Our 2004 Cristal Brut, served at 47 degrees Fahrenheit, had a nice golden appearance. Upon first sight, you feel like you are in for something special. The aroma is pleasant and enjoyable with an intensity of citrus and red berries. On the palate, the wine is fruity and well balanced culminating in a powerful finish.

Larisaʼs eyes now beamed with anticipation. “Are we ready for the next selection?” With subtle coquetry, she made her recommendation. “Grisha, letʼs go with a 2002 Perrier- Jouet Cuvee Belle Epoque.”

Larisa, ever the romantic, I should have expected no less in her selection. In the States, we know this wine as “Fleur De Champagne.” This is a wine of finesse and delicacy. A wine that is noble and ravishing in fragrance and style. This is a wine that even the most discerning palates can appreciate. And as Larisa would say, a wine for tsars and lovers.

Settling back into my comfortable leather chair, “How about a bottle of Dom Perignon?” “Dom is too much for the American palate,“Anastasia giggled as Larisa also chimed in. “Krug, Pommery, Veuve Clicquot?” I queried “Perhaps it is time for vodka and zakuska.” Anastasia said demurely …

In no time we arrived at the stunning Grand Hotel of Europe and ready to drink vodka. Scanning my surroundings, who would have thought that the Russians could so willingly exemplify such decadence. But that my friends is a different story …

Luxury Russian Vodkas

The Metropol is easily Moscow’s most exclusive Pre-Revolution hotel. Exuding all the luxury and opulence one would expect from such a glorious Art Nouveau palace, the Metropol, is undoubtedly the city’s most elegant and historic. To add to the Metropol’s allure,  it is opposite of the Bolshoi Theater, and only a few minutes walk to the Kremlin and Red Square. This historical landmark was erected in 1903 and after the Bolshevik’s took power in 1917, the Metropol served as the home for senior Party officials.

Boasting superb original Art Nouveau interior’s, the hotel’s cozy Shalyapin Bar is a favorite with Moscow’s celebrities. Today I am joined by fellow sommelier, and long-time friend, Nadia Gromova.

“Nadia,” I gently patted her hand. “I must admit that I am very excited with today’s tasting.”

Nadia’s eyes crinkled into a smile. “Grisha, I especially enjoy drinking luxury vodkas with you. Before we begin, I think you should explain to our readers how we Russians drink vodka.”

Traditionally, Russians always drink their vodka straight, well chilled, and never with ice. Another absolute must, vodka must be downed in one gulp … no sipping allowed. Russians always chase their vodka with something to eat. Preferably pickles, a clove of garlic, marinated herring, or even a slice of lard. Connoisseurs believe it is best to neutralize vodka’s power by sniffing a slice of the rich brown bread, ubiquitous at Russian meals. Today, it is quite popular to enjoy caviar with vodka. When it comes to etiquette, never drink until someone proposes a toast. If you are in a hurry, propose the toast yourself. Anything is apropos. Keep in mind that the art of drinking vodka in this fashion comes with pacing. Myself, I prefer to drink vodka at room temperature. If you must have it cold, chill the glass. Putting vodka in the freezer is primarily done to mask inferior brands. Most people consider vodka to be a neutral spirit. On the contrary, superior and luxury vodkas are distilled with flavor and uniqueness in mind. There is nothing neutral in the taste of a quality vodka.

“Maladiets, well done,” Nadia nodded in approval. “I have also ordered one of your favorite caviars, from the northern Caspian Sea.”

I flashed Nadia a wide beaming smile. “You know your Grisha only too well.

Our first section was from one of the more popular distillers in Russia. Beluga Gold stands out from the competition beginning with its unique ingredients. Hyaline artesian water from the springs in Siberia, malt extract, rice extract, and rhodiola rosea extract. and you thought vodka was only made from potatoes.

“Oh stop it,” Nadia playfully teased. “This is serious.”

“Indeed it is,” I quickly refilled our glasses. “Budem zdorovy, Let’s stay healthy.”

No one in Russia says “Na zdorovje” as a drinking cheer. This is incredibly a widespread myth. It does mean “To your health,” but this is only used as a response to “Spasiba, thank you.” Furthermore, there is no universal drinking cheer in the Russian language, however paradoxical that may seem.

“Grisha, you truly have a Russian soul,” Nadia gave me a more than amused grin.

“I think it is more of a penchant for vodka,” I chuckled softly.

”Touche,” Nadia paused to collect her thoughts. “I find most interesting in the Beluga Gold is the rest period.”

“Rest period?” I queried.

“Few vodkas, “ Nadia began. “Enjoy any sort of rest period. This distiller insists on a 90-day rest period so the spirit can meld together.”

“I must admit, the result is worth the wait and the price, $150 per bottle.

Our Beluga Gold has a warming, almost caressing to the nose feel,” Nadia clearly displayed her pleasure.

“I also like that it is smooth, full-bodied, clean and crisp,” I paused on the moment. “ I also enjoy its flavors as they continue to evolve on the palate.”

Our next vodka was equally as interesting, Kauffman Luxury Vintage. Mark Kauffman produces his vodka exclusively from the finest wheat of a single harvest. He believes there is enough of a variation in each year’s crop to justify producing vodka in superior years. Arguably, this distiller produces the world’s only vintage vodka. It is distilled fourteen times in an attempt to produce the absolute smoothest vodka. In his continuing efforts to produce perfection without compromise, Mr. Kauffman also filters his vodka through birch wood, coal, and quartz sand creating a most uniquely flavorful vodka.

“I definitely like the texture of Kauffman’s,” Nadia paused to enjoy her vodka. “And the flavor is unmistakable.”

“I concur,” I paused to collect my thoughts.” And at $225 per bottle, I won’t forget Kauffman’s Luxury Vintage.

“Knowing our next selection is your favorite of our Russian vodkas, I saved for last,” Nadia’s tone was filled with anticipation.

“Rodnik!” I beamed excitedly.

“Yes,” Nadia smiled softly. “I managed to get us a bottle of the Aristocrat.”

Rodnik is one of the oldest surviving Russian distilleries. Located Samara, it has been in production since 1895. Long hailed as Russia’s premier distillery, Rodnik has excelled in its production of quality vodkas and liqueurs. Our Rodnik Aristocrat is the company’s flagship vodka. The Aristocrat has a most unique quality of both strength and softness. This in part is due to using only the finest ingredients, the purest artesian waters of Samara, and only the most exceptional wheat. Rodnik also prides itself on utilizing progressive ways to distill vodka and liqueurs. A malt alcohol is also added. The compound consists of an alcohol tincture of wheat bread loaves. This gives our vodka a pronounced “bread taste.” A complex food additive is also included. The complex contains natural carbohydrates and vitamins which adds to the softness of taste and decreases the toxic impact of alcohol on the human body. The result is one of the finest vodkas produced in Russia. A vodka of unsurpassed quality and flavor.

“I must admit, Rodnik is a most distinctive vodka,” Nadia paused lightly. The pronounced  wheat flavor on the palate makes a lovely pairing with the Beluga Caviar.”

“This is one that I wish we could share with my friend, Eve,” I chuckled under my breath.

“Why is that?” Nadia was more than amused. “Because it is $300 per bottle?”

“No,” I chuckled under my breath. “Eve would appreciate that Rodnik decreases the toxic impact of alcohol on the body.”

We erupted euphorically.

“Nadia,” I called for her attention. “Are you ready for a banya? a traditional Russian sauna bath.”

“Davai, let’s go.”

“But that my friends is another story …”

Passion for Polish Vodka

Le Meridien Bristol is a grand hotel in the fashionable “Kings Walk” area of Warsawʼs old town. This historic hotel was built in 1899 and is famous for its picturesque Art- Nouveau interiors.

Joining me in the hotelʼs Column Bar, are fellow sommeliers, Adrianna and Karina. Both share my passion for Polish vodka. Settling into my large leather arm chair, a smile crossed my face as I took in the beauty of the barʼs high ceilings, parquet floors, and ornate columns.

“Gregory, what is it that amuses you?” Karina queried. Chuckling softly, “I must be with the only brunettes in this bar,” “Two ladies who are very thirsty.” Adrianna toyed.

As we readied for our first selection, our waiter served some appetizers which consisted of pickles and sausages. A Polish custom which I have grown quite fond.

Today we will be tasting “Wodka Crysta.” Literally translated, it means “Clean vodka.” It is the Polish term for clear vodka containing no additives. Contrary to popular belief, vodka is not tasteless. Vodka can be quite complex with a range of flavors pending on whether it has been distilled from wheat, rye, or potatoes.

When drinking with Poles, proper etiquette is a must. Vodka is always served neat, in a shot glass and drunk “To da … to the bottom,” is the general rule.

“Gregory,” Karina smiled demurely. “I know you have a penchant for rye vodka. My selection for today is Uʼluvka.”

This is indeed one of my favorite rye vodkas. Uʼluvka is Polish for “legless,” referring to the style of crystal glasses favored by the 17th century King Sigismund 111 and his court. The twisted tear drop bottle is as elegantly shaped as is the vodka. Rye vodkas are known for their complexity. With just a hint of barley to stimulate the palate, Uʼluvka is smooth in texture and rich in savory flavors that will satisfy the most discerning of palates. Neat is the only way to fully appreciate this truly august vodka.

“Gregory,” Adrianna called out for my attention. “Why do Americans often drink vodka on the rocks?

“One school of thought is that as the ice slowly melts, it helps to open up the vodka.”

“Yuk.” Karina grimaced. “That is as bad as Russians putting vodka in the freezer. All that does is mask the impurities of an inferior vodka.”

Proper filtration is an absolute must in making premium vodka. Everything from charcoal, crystals, and even lava rocks have been utilized in the attempt to craft a most unique spirit.

“Gregory,” Adrianna broke in. “Are we ready for my selection? I know that you are especially fond of vodkas distilled from spelt grain. Snow Leopard is one of your favorites so I decided that we should share this truly remarkable Vodka with your readers.

On the nose, this vodka is soft and well rounded with overtones of vanilla and honey. On the palate, Snow Leopard is velvety smooth culminating in a long finish. This exceptional tasting vodka has plenty of depth and character. In essence, Snow Leopard is a spirit with a soul. Spelt grains were originally used to brew the beer of the Pharaohs. Need I say more when it comes this most delectable of vodkas.

“Whatʼs next?” Karina said with a wink and her glass readied for my selection.

Wheat vodkas are renown for their smoothness. Akademicka, is no exception. This is an elegant vodka characteristic of Polandʼs mastery in distilling premium spirits. Using only pure mountain water from the famous Silesian wells, the end result is a vodka of unrivaled character and body.

“Very clean on the nose,” Adrianna added. “Beautifully balanced on the palate.”

“I like its delicate character and long finish.” Karina concluded that this is a vodka of excellence.

“Weʼre hungry,” Both ladies said with a chuckle. Delight filled my eyes.”Iʼm feeling Italian and musical.”

“Oh Gregory, just admit that you want to drink barolo.” Karina took me by the arm as we all laughed in unison, “Bordoʼs.”

Bordoʼs is my favorite Italian cafe in Warsaw. But that my friends is another story …