Midas Man or Imposter?

Living in Europe, I am often inundated with questions concerning the California wine scene. After all, we do have the reputation of abounding with new and innovative ideas for wines. In fact, when my stateside friends come for a visit, they are expected to pay tribute to this self-proclaimed Caesar. My friends are quick to bestow unto to me lavish gifts of California wines, especially those up comers to watch. In all seriousness, we enjoy catching up and discussing California’s current wine trends. Not to mention that my guest room is always open to my friends and colleagues alike. We Spaniards have a saying, “Mi casa, es su casa,” My home is your home.

Today, I want to spotlight the wines of one of my favorite California winemakers, Jeff Cohn. I am joined by special friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. We are also joined by fellow Californian, and wine enthusiast, Randy Morris. Randy is on holiday in Central Europe and I am indebted to him for sharing these lovely wines.

Headquartered in Oakland, California, Jeff Cohen is the proud owner of JC Cellars. If you are familiar with the 2003 Rockpile Road Zinfandel, then you already know why I hold Jeff’s Wines in such high-esteem. When Jeff was with Rosenblum Cellars, he was catapulted to repute with the success of this Zin. That year, Wine Spectator ranked Jeff’s Rockpile Road Zinfandel as 3rd on its Top 100 List for 2003. This was also a mark of distinction for California Zinfandel as no Zin had ever broken into the top ten. Then in January of 2006, Jeff made a move on his own with the launching of JC Cellars. Since then he has been focused solely on crafting some very special and distinctive wines.

What is Jeff formula for success? He searches relentlessly from California’s Santa Barbara region to Mendocino for only the finest fruit and the best vineyards. Jeff also goes to great lengths to combine crème de la crème of California with the age-old French notion of terroir and minerality.

Sonoma’s rugged Rockpile soil is characteristic of producing some of the most complex and profound minerality in all of California. The 2011 Buffalo Hill Syrah is emblematic of the craggy soil in which it thrives. In the glass, it is a deep purple/black highlighted by hues of red. From sight alone, one feels compelled and is drawn to this dark and mysterious wine. On the nose, there is a burst of aroma. The bouquet is abundant in blueberry, blackberry, black pepper, and spice. On the palate, it is dense, rich, and full-bodied with silky tannins. The wine shows good structure, and exceptional minerality that balances nicely with good fruit. The finish is smooth and lingers. The alcohol content is 15% with a bottle price of $30.

“A powerful, explosive, and rich wine,” Randy clearly expressed his zeal. “I am surprised that I am not overwhelmed by the high alcohol content.”

“Very good minerality,” I replied as I took another sip. “This is a wine to be leisurely enjoyed.”

“I am often pleasantly surprised with the caliber of California wines,” Elena smiled delightfully. “I would pair this Syrah with a rib-eye steak, a rack of lamb, and even venison.”

Up next, 2011 El Diablo Vineyard The Fallen Angel. Fruit from the Russian River Valley’s El Dorado Vineyard produces some of Sonoma County’s finest wines. While Grenache is often blended, The Fallen Angel stands alone. This seductive wine is 100% Grenache. In the glass, its deep dark red color is pleasing and inviting. On the nose, the bouquet is alive with aromas of lavender and pepper. There is also a whisper of cherry similar to that found in kirsch. On the palate, the wine is ever so smooth on the tongue, displaying good blueberry fruit as it trails into softer fruit flavors. The finish is strong and juicy yet maintaining its complexity. Grenache has yet find its rightful place in California’s hierarchy of wines, the Fallen Angel is a sure bet to lead the way. The alcohol content is 15.3% with a bottle price of $45.

“I was surprised by how smooth and easy this wine is to drink,” Randy was first to comment.

“Wines produced from El Dorado Vineyard, grapes most always produce good wines,” I paused for effect. “Jeff Cohen has demonstrated time and again that he knows how to create wines of distinction.”

“He certainly hides the alcohol level well,” Elena’s eyes sparkled as she smiled. “Due to the wines spiciness and pure red fruit, it will pair nicely with hearty dishes like cassoulet or less spicy Asian dishes.”

Our next two selections are particular favorites. In 2010 I was first introduced to Jeff Cohn and two of his wines, “Smoke & Mirrors” and “The Imposter,” by friend and Los Angeles wine buyer, Robert Tapia. I was immediately captivated by the distinctiveness of the wines and Jeff’s prowess as a winemaker. 

Let’s take a look at a 2012 Smoke and Mirrors. This is an intriguing blend of Zinfandel, Syrah Petite Sirah, and Alicante that delivers. Initially, I had my doubts, but once again, Jeff’s mastery prevailed. In the glass, the wine is dark garnet almost maroon in color. The nose is fresh with the bouquet filling with aromas of cherry, spice, bright earth, with only a whisper of oak coming through. There’s not a lot of wood because the Zinfandel was fermented in cement. On the palate, the wine is a complex array of pure fruit. While flavors of wild raspberry and blackberry dominate, there are notes of pepper followed by hints of cream and cocoa. The finish is medium and pleasurable. Over all, a very easy wine to drink. We  did decant Smoke and Mirrors for just under an hour. The alcohol content is 14.8% with a bottle price of $25.

“An excellent blend that surprised me,” Randy chuckled with amusement.

“I must admit that initially I had my doubt’s,” I also broke into laughter.

“This is more of a party or cocktail wine,” Elena spoke softly as she considered the wine. “I would serve it only with a wine and cheese platter.”

Our last selection, 2010 The Imposter, is a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Viognier. In the glass, the wine appears as an opaque black purple. The nose is a wonderful array of aromas. Dominated by blackberry and raspberry, there are hints of black cherry, licorice, vanilla, dark chocolate, and a gentle whisper of herbs and roasted coffee. On the palate, The Imposter is full bodied and concentrated. There is good blackberry and raspberry fruit followed by alluring array of flavors of Asian spices, smoke, and cedar. The finish is distinctive with a big vanilla finish. There a lots of tannins so we decanted the wine for a good hour. The alcohol content is 14.8% with a bottle price of $35.

“What a nice balancing act!” Randy’s tone was one of assurance.

“When I was first introduced to this wine, my initial reaction was oh, hell no,” I chuckled softly. “After the first taste, my only thought was, hell yes!”

“Another festive wine,” Elena nodded approvingly. “It is big and rich, not syrupy and no raisiny notes.”

I am not the biggest advocate of high alcohol wines, however, Jeff Cohn seems to have found that balance. The Midas Man’s wines are a pleasure to serve with any meal or to simply sit back and enjoy.

Now if I only had a bottle of the 2003 Rockpile Zinfandel … “But that my friends, is a different story.”

The Prisoner is Out

Ever since its release, Dave Phinney’s Zinfandel based, “The Prisoner,” captivated the wine world. For many, it came as a surprise in 2010 when Phinney’s Orin Swift Cellars sold two of their most popular wines, Saldo and The Prisoner, to Chile’s Huneeus Vintners. According to Phinney, the sale is more of a partnership as Huneeus owns Quintessa Vineyards in Napa Valley. Plans have been launched for Phinney to develop projects in both Chile and Argentina, and beyond.

In recent years Orin Swift has been investing in properties throughout the world and producing some very exciting wines. Once again I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. Also joining us is my friend from Los Angeles, Mark Fraser. We are also indebted to Mark for sharing these wonderful wines.

Up first, 2012 Veladora. This is a blend of 96% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscat. In the glass, the wine is a pleasing yellow, which is brightly illuminated. The nose is dominated by a potent aromas of fresh citrus fruit with peach and honeydew showing through. There are also accents of tropical fruits to fill out the bouquet. On the palate, the Veladora is light in body and well balanced. The lively acidity brings out a rich range of fruit flavors. Orange, tangerine, pineapple, nectarine, mango, and fig, all expressing themselves, yet maintaining harmony. The finish is clean with a pleasurable hint of minerality. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $25. On a completely different note, the proceeds of this wine go to “Puertas Abiertas,” (Open Doors) an organization that provides health and dental care services to California’s migrant vineyard workers. Kudos to Dave Phinney and everyone at Orin Swift.

“I like everything about this wine,” Mark expressed his glee. “It is fresh, bright, and tropical.”

“I do not overly care for California Sauvignon Blanc,” I paused for effect. “However, the Veladora is quickly changing my mind.”

“I like the roundness of this wine,” Elena spoke up. “It is much different than the usual grassier Sauvignon Blanc. I would serve it with a soft goat cheese. Crottin de Chavignol comes immediately to mind.”

“Definitely a versatile wine,” I replied. “I’d also go with fish, seafood, and even quiche.”

“I know what wine I’ll be serving next Thanksgiving,” Mark chuckled. “I’d also go with glazed pork or chicken.”

Our next selection, 2012 Mannequin, is a blend of California grapes. These include 40% Chardonnay, 14% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Grenache Blanc, 12% Viognier, 8% Marsanne, 4%Roussanne, and 2% Muscat. The wine has been aged over a 14 month period in 40% new French Oak, 40% in neutral oak, and lastly, 20% in stainless steel. Deep shades of gold and amber fill the glass. On the nose, the bouquet is an aromatic blend of citrus fruit and fresh cut wild flowers. On the palate, the wine is nicely balanced with a rich creamy texture. Tropical fruit and exotic spices prevail, followed by flavors of apricot and lychee, and tangerine being the most noticeable. The finish shows lively acidity and a nutty dessert cake flavor. The alcohol content is 15.5% with a bottle price of $30.

“Dave Phinney certainly knows how to blend wines,” Mark concluded with a nod of approval.

“A lot going on so the key is not to over analyze,” I said with assurance. “The Mannequin is simply a very easy wine to drink.”

“He certainly knows how to blend varietals,” ELena appeared pleasantly surprised. “This wine can easily be paired with several types of food. Barbecue immediately comes to mind.”

Up next, 2012 China Doll. This is a blend of Grenache and Syrah. This is a rose style wine that spent 8 months aging in stainless steel. In the glass the wine is a rosy red with a purple tincture. On the nose, the bouquet opens up to exotic spices with jasmine prevailing, followed by fresh berry fruit, and a wisp of orange peel. On the palate, there is good balance to the complex array of flavors. Plenty of ripe fruit, with melon showing through, followed by peaches and cream, and concluding with a dash of peppercorn. The finish is clean with just a trace of minerality. The alcohol content is 14.1% with a bottle price of $20.

“A lively wine that I just enjoyed drinking,” Mark flashed an even grin.

“China Doll is particularly complex for a rose wine,” I agreed. “I found this very much to my liking.”

“China Doll is a wine of endless possibilities,” Elena said flatly. “It can be paired with so many different dishes. The Jasmine and spice characteristics of the wine make my immediate thoughts lean toward spicy Asian cuisine or Indian curry.”

Our last selection, 2011 D66 comes from an Orin Swift property in Languedoc, France. This is a region that is quickly becoming a major force in French wines. The wine itself is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan. It was aged in 30% new French oak for 18 months and bottle aged another 5 months. In the glass, the wine is almost black, yet striated by hues of crimson. On the nose, the bouquet is rich and opulent, dominated by aromas of black cherry, plum, and blueberry. There were also pleasurable hints of spice, cola, and mocha. On the palate, the D66 is big, rich, and powerful. The wine exuded a complex array of flavors. Black cherry , blackberry, blueberry, plum, licorice, coffee,  pepper, and spice all made their presence known. The finish is long, velvety smooth, and memorable. Still a young wine, we decanted for an hour to give it some room to open up. The alcohol content is 15.2% with a bottle price of $40.

“If you like Grenache, the D66 is a sure bet,” Mark said with a smile.

“I like everything about this wine,” I nodded in approval. “Once the aromas permeated the air, I knew we were in for a treat. It is powerful, yet not overpowering.”

“I agree wholeheartedly. The D66 is very well made. ” Elena’s eyes crinkled softly as she smiled. “The spice of D66 would lead me to pair it with spiced or herbal dishes, and roasted meats. The high alcohol level can also help to reduce the burn of spicy food.” 

Lastly, I would also recommend some of the notable wines that Dave Phinney has produced in South America and Italy. You owe it to yourself to give them a taste.

“But that my friends, is another story … “

Rock Star Wines of Distinction

Verde Valley (Green) is now producing some very exciting wines. Verde Valley is also excelling in the realm of organic wines. Where is Verde valley? Jerome, Arizona, of course. Not only is this unlikely region producing wines of distinction, they are the vision of one whom some may consider, an unlikely source.

Caduceus Cellars is the brainchild of Rock star and entrepreneur, Maynard James Keenan. The renown front man of such alternative hard rock groups as Tool, A Perfect Circle, and Puscifer, is not just a figurehead, Keenan takes an active role in the winemaking. The name, “Caduceus,” is actually the ancient symbol for commerce, and the Greek god, Hermes. There is a bit of a twist in that the vineyard is actually named “Merkin Vineyards,” which is a female pubic wig. Dare I say that is definitely another story. 

Let’s take a step back. Is it really so strange to consider Arizona a viable wine producing region? The Spaniards did not think in these terms. As far back as the 1700s Spanish Jesuit missionaries began growing wines in the high desert. Properly irrigated, the high desert is comparable to Argentina’s Mendoza Valley. Those of you who know Argentine wines are well aware of their quality. More specifically, the Malbec is some of the finest in the world.

In 1973 Arizona began formally producing wines, and in 1983, formed the Arizona Wine Growers Association. The state now has 45 licensed wineries in three growing regions. In the north, there is Verde Valley. Sonoita and Elgin are located in the south and southwest of Arizona.

Today I am joined by special friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. We also have tasting with us, my protégé, Iryna Karakay. In fact, it was Iryna’s idea to review the Caduceus wines for our readers at Eve Wine 101. Iryna is not only a big fan of Maynard James Keenan and his music, she is also passionate about his wines.

Up first, 2012 Dos Ladrones (Two Outlaws). This is a 50/50 blend of Arizona Malvasia Bianca and Chardonnay. Both are from the Bonita Springs Vineyard. In the glass, the wine shimmers with the gleam of light gold. On the nose, Dos Ladrones awakens with life. The bouquet is intense and complex with a pleasing array of white flowers, pear, peach, lemon, honeycomb, and a whisper of vanilla. On the palate, the wine is nicely textured with good weight. Showing great balance and complexity, notes of honeydew, cantaloupe, and white fruit fill the palate. There is also the slightest hint of gooseberry on the back palate. The finish is acidic and showing solid minerality. The alcohol content is 14.1% with a bottle price of $40.

“The 2012 showed very good fruit,” Iryna spoke softly as her lips broadened into a smile.

“Dos Ladrones exemplifies the best of both varietals,” I was quick to add. Elena, with what dishes would you pair this wine?”

“Definitely with bruschetta and cheese,” she replied. “Stuffed chicken breast would also go nicely.”

Our next selection was named after Keenan’s wife, Lei Li. The 2012 Lei Li Nebbiolo Rose is 100% Nebbiolo grapes from the Bonita Springs Vineyard. In the glass, our wine is a light crimson illuminated by hues of pale reddish purple. The nose is filled with a floral bouquet that is accented by tropical fruits. On the palate, the Lei Li is complex and with good body. It is nicely balanced with plenty of fruit. The palate is dominated by passion fruit and melon, with an assortment of tropical fruits subtly making their presence known. The finish is savory and memorable. The alcohol content is 13% with a bottle price of $40.

“This is one of the tastiest rose wines,” Iryna smacked her lips. “Very savory.”

“The Lei Li exemplifies the type of rose that Arizona has to offer,” I replied.

“Like most rose wine, the Lei Li is very versatile,” Elena was quick to point out. “I would serve this wine with a cheese platter. I know my girlfriends would enjoy this pairing very much.”

Moving right along, our next selection, 2012 Kitsune Sangiovese Grosso is 100% Sangiovese grapes from Cochise County. In the glass, Kitsune is a light and inviting cherry red. On the nose, there are soft aromas of cherry and violets, laced with vanilla and oak. On the palate, the wine is velvety and filed with ripe tannins. There are ample amounts of fresh fruit, with cherry prevailing. There are also notes of strawberry followed by hints of clove. The finish has bright fruit and spice. The alcohol content is 14.3% with a bottle price of $55.

“Arizona Brunello,” Iryna clearly displayed her pleasure.

“Good fruit and spice,” I shared my surprise. “An all around, a good wine.”

“Definitely a food friendly wine,” Elena was quick to add. “I would pair it with hard cheeses, rich roasted meat, and sausages.”

“Meatloaf,” I broke in.

“Meatloaf?” both women chuckled, openly displaying their amusement.

Our last selection, 2011 Anubis proved to be an interesting wine. It is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Petite Sirah. The grapes all hailing from Luna County. In the glass, the Anubis is dark and cloaked in mystery. Much like its Egyptian god namesake. The wine simply calls out in temptation. The nose is permeated by scents of cherry, toffee, and honey. On the palate, the blend is full bodied. In fact, probably the most full bodied of the Caduceus wines. Quite flavorful, the palate is dominated, yet not overwhelmed, by cherry, licorice, leather, and oak. The finish is long, flavorful, with whispers of oak. We did allow the wine to decant for a good hour. The alcohol content is 14% with a bottle price of $50.

“Definitely different from the other Caduceus reds I have had in the past,” Iryna paused on the moment. “I like it.”

“I agree,” I flashed her a quick grin. “I also prefer a fuller bodied wine.”

“I also alike the fullness of the Anubis,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “Most definitely a red meat wine. A big porterhouse steak would be lovely.”

I mentioned earlier that the Anubis was an interesting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petite Sirah from Luna County. Why did I find this so intriguing? Luna County is in New Mexico, but that my friends is a different story …

Single Malt Vodka? Surely You Jest

A few years ago, I was enjoying some vodka with my best friend John Sherer. I was going on and on about the virtues of Polish rye vodka, when John shocked me with a question.

“Dude, have you ever tried single malt vodka?” he queried.

John’s question was enough to stagger a billy goat. “Single malt vodka?” I stammered and shook my head in dismay. “Surely you jest.”

“I’m not joking,” he playfully punched me in the arm. “I read an article that stated the best vodka in the world was from Scotland and it was single malt.”

“Scottish vodka, now I was sure that I had been kicked in the stomach.”

My next thought was a scene right out of the James Bond film, ‘You Only Live Twice.’ Once 007 had dispatched one of the henchman, who was an enormous Sumo wrestler, Bond reaches for a bottle of vodka and drank deeply.

“Siamese vodka,” Bond grimaced as he shockingly read the label. Vodka aficionados worldwide erupted euphorically as Sean Connery so convincingly shared his disdain at the thought of a vodka distilled in Thailand.

Today I am once again joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. We are at my flat in Kyiv and I am ready to introduce Elena to some premium single malt vodkas.

“Grisha,” I am very excited that you invited me for this tasting,” Elaina’s eyes sparkled with anticipation. “The notion of a single malt vodka intrigues me.”

What exactly is single malt and why is this considered a bit strange to most vodka connoisseurs? In a nut shell, single malt is essentially whiskey unblended with any other malt. Malt is barley or any other grain that has been steeped, germinated, and dried. In the United Kingdom, the term “single malt” is typically used when referring to scotch whiskey. Single malt must be made solely from malted barley, distilled in a pot still, and aged for a minimum of three years. In the States, however, single malt denotes rye whiskey as opposed to barley.

“So what is meant by single malt vodka?” Elena queried.

“Most often, single malt vodka is 100% malted barley as the only ingredient.”

“Can it be aged?” Elena seemed a bit puzzled.

Yes, of course.”

“Knowing your penchant for 10 and 25 year old rye vodka from Poland,” Elena’s eyes sparkled into a small smile. “Today should prove to be most interesting.”

“Ah, Starka, my favorite of all vodkas,” I nodded in fond reflection. “But that is for another time and another tasting.”

Our first selection hails from Canada. Still Waters is handcrafted in small batches. The distiller is quite proud that only the finest two-row malted barley, purified water, and yeast is used in the making of this triple-distilled vodka. Still Waters also boasts that a small custom-made pot still is used to craft a smooth and clean spirit. Lastly, just prior to bottling, Still Waters is chill-filtered in order to attain pristine and crystal clarity.

“On the nose, I detected hints of malt,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “There is an interesting assortment of fruits.”

“It is much more scented than most vodkas,” I paused as I savored the vodka. “Perhaps a bit too scented.”

On the palate, we both found Still Waters to be a bit too sweet and the distinct flavor of malt and spice a trifle overpowering on this medium to full body vodka. The finish, though buttery and a bit sweet, was exceptionally smooth and with no burn. Overall, an interesting artisan vodka at 40% alcohol and a price tag of $35.

Our next selection hails from England. Sipsmith is another handcrafted small batch vodka produced entirely from malted barley. The distillers at Sipsmith affectionately boast about the most important member of their team is Prudence. Crafted in Germany, Prudence is the only copper still of its kind. It is believed that through the use of copper, the result will be a smooth and pure vodka with no need for filtration.

“I do not understand the nose on our Sipsmith,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “There is a subtle aroma of juniper with hints of spice and candied ginger.”

“I also have reservations on the nose of this vodka,” I nodded in agreement. “The floral juniper quality is more expressive of gin rather than vodka.”

We also found our Sipsmith to be extraordinarily soft, perhaps to a fault. The finish is lingering and dry with just a hint of pepper coming through. This artisan vodka has an alcohol content of 40% and a price tag of $40.

Our next selection hails from Scotland via New York. Valt is the brain child of two Scots who met in Manhattan. They proudly make the claim that their vodka is crafted solely by Scottish distillers, using only Scottish malted barley, and Scottish mountain water. So what emerges? According to the Scots, a refined and pure vodka with no equal.

The distillers at Valt also boast a quintuple micro-distillation technique in copper stills, which is uniquely their own.”

“Grisha,” Elena broke in. “What is quintuple?”

“Five times …”

She cut me off. “Stop showing off and let’s sample some Valt.”

“Budimo,” I toasted her as I poured our vodka.

“On the nose,” Elena began. “I found Valt creamy and strangely sweet.”

“I would liken the aroma to that of boiling fruit.”

We both agreed that on the palate there was the distinct flavor of barley with hints of vanilla and spice. The finish was of melting butter and toffee-like. Valt is uniquely Scottish and a whiskey drinker’s vodka. The alcohol content is 40% with a price tag of $45.

Our last selection came as a bit of a surprise. It is from the Italian company, Franciacorta, and It is called Single Vodka Single Malt 40. The literature reads like an advertisement for whiskey. They are proud to make the claim of using rare barley grain and a pot still process. Allow me liberty of paraphrasing the quote: “Single lives up to the tradition of great single malt whiskies with its bold character, satisfying the most demanding, inaugurating a new way of drinking and presenting vodka.”

Both Elena and I found Single Malt 40 floral on the nose. The mouth-feel was clean, crisp, light in character, and finishing with just a hint of delicate sweetness. An interesting attempt at a barley vodka from Franciacorta. The company is known primarily for its grappas and liqueurs. This single malt entry is 40% alcohol and priced at $60.

Both Elena and I found single malt vodkas to be distinctly barley like in character, exceptionally smooth, and somewhat sweet. Perhaps it would be more appropriate to refer to single malt vodka as “white whiskey.”

We did put our single malts to the test with a few cocktails. Elena preferred Cosmopolitans with Valt and I found Sipsmith to make an interesting Bloody Mary, but that my friends is another story …