Chacha at Batumi Beach

Sunsets on Batumi Beach are a majestic sight. Striated with the hues of amber and gold, an image of natural grandeur persists. At length the purpling sky gives way to darkness and the open expanse of  sea mile. What are Medea and I doing in the Republic of Georgia’s premier seaside resort? Certainly not to enter a Latin dance romp.

“Oh Grigol,” Medea erupted euphorically. Stop teasing our readers and share with them what is Chacha.”

From our beach cottage, I gazed out at the seemingly endless sea and searched for an explanation.  Chacha (pronounced Cha-ka) is a clear strong liquor produced by Georgians for some one thousand years. It is is made from the grape pomace that is left after making wine. So is it grappa. Don’t rush to any conclusions. Then it must be brandy. Once again your conclusion would be incorrect. To most Georgians, Chacha, simply put,  is “vine vodka.”

“Many Georgians also believe that Chacha has medicinal properties,” Medea stated matter-of-factly. “My father always says, one glass in the morning, on an empty stomach  keeps the doctor away.”

Chuckling under my breath, “All my mother gave me was an apple.”

Marani Chacha Saperavi

Medea delicately filled our glasses with a favorite Chacha from the distiller, Marani.

“Gaumarjos!” We toasted each other.

Everything about the appearance of Chacha says vodka. However, on the nose, the delightfully aromatic bouquet is of jammed red fruit and mint. On the palate there is a subtle complexity with a sweet mid-palate. The finish is a silky strawberry. Most appealing is the wonderful smoothness to this spirit that is distilled from Saperavi grapes.

Medea cleared her throat. “I would also like to share with our readers the traditional method of making Chacha.”

Medea went on to explain that after fermentation the pomace and the last fraction on the pressing wine is double steam distilled in the traditional way. At Marani, the resulting  Chacha is stored in stainless steel tanks before bottling.

Marani, meaning “small wine cellar,” has an interesting background. Founded in 1915, this renown winery is noted for its ability to combine the best of Georgian tradition with a modern outlook. Beginning in 1997, Marani has added state of the art techniques to enhance, rather than overwhelm Georgia’s unique wine heritage.

“Medea.”

“Yes Grigol.”

“What is our next selection?” I queried.

Medea’s face beamed with excitement. “Something very special.”

“Surprise me.”

“A Chateau Mukhrani,” Medea replied with anticipated pleasure. “Better still, it is a 2007.”

Mukhrani, meaning “embellished with oak trees,” is one of the most beautiful wineries in eastern Georgia. Known for their lush vineyards, Chateau Mukhrani produces some of the region’s finest examples of Chacha. Our 2007 vintage exemplified a hand-crafted and refined elegance. Don’t be fooled by the smoothness of this Chacha, it is very powerful.

“Indeed it is stronger. 43% alcohol,” Medea blushed and giggled to herself. “The first time I tried Chateau Mukhrani, let’s just say I had a bit too much.”

On the nose a host of wonderful jammy fruit aromas permeate the nostrils. On the palate, there is a refined complexity of flavors ranging from vanilla, licorice, and mint,  ending in a long silky berry finish.

“Chacha can also be served slightly chilled,” Medea was quick to add. “46-54 degrees Fahrenheit.” She then handed me a glass of slightly chilled Chacha. “I know your palate and opted for 54 degrees.”

Chilling does not change Chacha’s characteristics to any noticeable degree. I concluded that chilling was merely a matter of preference.

“I agree,” Medea flashed a grin. “Chacha is unique unto itself.”

Although Chacha is growing in popularity and is easily found in both the States and Western Europe, there is great news for connoisseurs and world travelers. By the end of summer, Batumi Beach will host a most unique attraction. Construction is nearing conclusion of a 75 foot tall clock tower, complete with observation deck. What makes this minaret styled structure so special? The lofty pinnacle will host a fountain the spurts Georgia’s national spirit. Better still, samples of Chacha will be free.

“Grigol,” Medea called for my attention. “Perhaps when you return the end of summer, Eve should accompany you. I think she would enjoy the new clock tower and fountain.”

A broad smile filled my face. “I assure that Eve would appreciate the tower and fall totally in love with the fountain.”

Medea gazed longingly at the emptiness of the beach. “Grigol, I know it’s late, but can we talk a stroll along the beach?”

But that my friends is another story …

Georgian Gold, The Brandy of the Tsars

The Terrace Bar in Tbilisiʼs Vere Palace Hotel has a breathtaking view of the city. From our rooftop perch, we were greeted with the sublime scenery of the capitalʼs prestigious Vere district.

Everything about the Vere Palace Hotel exudes charm, elegance, and luxury. What better surroundings to spend an afternoon with 2 lovely ladies and sampling some of the Republic of Georgiaʼs finest brandies.

Heralded as the birthplace of wine some 8,000 years ago, Georgia is also renown for its grape vodka known as Chacha, and world class brandy. To maintain the highest quality standards, Georgia uses the French classifications of VS, VSOP, and XO.

Today, I am joined by fellow sommeliers Medea and Shorena. Since my heyday with Georgian wines, I have come to know both ladies quite well and trust their palates implicitly.

“Medea, Shorena, it is always a pleasure to share my table with you both.” Medeaʼs face beamed excitedly. “We havenʼt raised a glass together since last spring.”

“Grigol (Gregory in Georgian), we took the liberty of ordering some Georgian specialities, Shorena delighted with anticipation. “Many of your favorites.”

I watched with amusement as our waiter served various dishes of goat and sheep cheese adorned with cucumbers and tomatoes. Tsotskhali, a small river fish cooked while still alive. Chizhi-pizhi, pieces of roasted lamb liver and spleen. Kachapuri, a thin pie filled with goat cheese and my favorite, lavash. This is a Georgian bread slapped against the wall of a clay oven and baked. All of the dishes were sprinkled with pungent spices that permeated the air.

Old Kakheti 10 year old

“Grigol,” Shorena called for my attention. “I selected as our first brandy, Old Kakheti.”

At first sight, this 10 year old brandy is straw-colored. The unique coloring comes from the Georgian oak barrels used in the traditional Kakhetian method of blending Rkatsiteli grapes.

Raising our glasses we toasted in unison … “Gaumarjos!” “I like the gentle bouquet,” Medea remarked as she continued to savor her brandy. “Very gentle on the palate,” Shorena added. “Soft and velvety.”

This is a fine brandy. Anyone who is interested in learning about Georgian brandies, I often recommend Old Kakheti as a starting point. “Whatʼs next?”

“I selected a Sarajishvili XO,” Medea presented me with the bottle.

After studying cognac making in France, David Sarajishvili founded his legendary company in1884. In the days of the Russian Empire, Sarajishvili brandy was known as “Natural Caucasian.” Eventually the company was heralded as the “Official Court Supplier of Georgian Brandy to the Russian Tsar.

To the eye, this 18 year old brandy is a very deep reddish brown. One anticipates that they are about to enjoy something very special. I was quick to notice the aromas of maple nut, caramel, and mocha.

“Grigol,” Medea, still admiring her brandy. “I prefer the medium-body of Sarajishvili XO. It is solid with a sophisticated balance.”

“Letʼs not forget the pleasant tones of oak,” Shorena added.
Sarajishvili XO is a unique blend of 15 different eau-de-vie reserved in estate cellars and aged for an average of 14-18 years. “An excellent choice.” I applauded Medea.

“I thought it a nice balance of east and west techniques of making brandy,” Medea replied with confidence.

“What is our final selection?” I motioned for Medea to show me the bottle that now peaked my interest.

“Your favorite,” she replied with glee. “Eniseli.”

Eniseli has long been considered the elite of the Georgian brandies. Crafted from only the finest Rkatsiteli grapes cultivated Eniseli district of the Alazani Valley, this is the pride of the Georgian brandy industry.

“Grigol,” Shorena queried. “Is is true that Eniseli was the favorite brandy of Winston Churchill? I have also heard he even preferred it to French brandy.”

“In Churchillʼs memroirs, ʻTriumph and Tragedy,ʼ he recounts not only his passion for Eniseli, also the fact that he could drink Stalin under the table.”

“A monumental task indeed, considering that Stalin was a Georgian,” Medea erupted euphorically.

“Obviously, Mr. Churchill was quite the connoisseur,” Shorena said matter of factly.

Being no less the bon vivant, I served the ladies and myself a more than generous pour of our 15 year old blend from Sarajishvali. On first sight, the color is a pleasing amber.

As I took in the gentle and fine bouquet, a savory aroma of pronounced vanilla permeated my nostrils. And on the palate … a sheer delight. Eniseli can be charactered as an elegant brandy that has been crafted with the required sophistication for for even the most discerning of palates.

“Grigol, perhaps your American readers would like to know about Russian state dinners in Soviet times,” Medea cocked a playful brow.

We are often quick to stereotype Russians as quaffing endless shots of vodka. Quite the contrary, Georgian brandy was the official spirit served at all state functions. In fact this tradition actually dates back to the days of the tsars. Georgian brandy was always the luxury spirit of the empire. Considering that Georgians have the longest tradition of making brandy, this is by no means a surprise.

“Grigol, Iʼm famished,” Shorena playfully rubbed her belly. “What would you ladies prefer for dinner?” A gleeful expression filled Medeaʼs face. “Georgian, of course.”

So off we went for a night of fine Georgian cuisine, mukuzani wine, and Georgian folk music … But that my friends is another story.

Moldovan Wines … So where is Moldova?

Peering out from the Terrace Bar in Chisnau’s luxurious Savoy Hotel, I have a wonderful view of the capital’s city center. Considering that Moldova is one of the poorest countries in Europe; the Savoy is a welcome surprise of total elegance and a  stylishness that one would not expect to find in the former Soviet Republic.

If you are not quite sure where exactly is Moldova, rest assured that you are not alone. Secreted between Romania and Ukraine, and close to the Black Sea, Moldova’s recent history has been quite tumultuous. At one time, Moldova was part of Romania. The people are not Slavs, but Romanian, with a large Turkish presence. Some of Moldova’s territory includes about 70% of Bessarabia, with the remaining 30% now controlled by Ukraine. However, let’s not forget that on Moldova’s eastern border, along the Dniester River, lies the breakaway territory of Transnistria.

For those of you who are now totally lost and have no clue as to where I am, rest assured that I am somewhere in Eastern Europe, in a country with a 4,000 year history of winemaking. I am also  comfortably enjoying a glass of wine with my friend and fellow sommelier, Valeria Dadiani.

“Would you stop teasing our readers,” Valeria paused awaiting my full attention. “I have selected some lovely wines for our enjoyment.”

Our table had also been impeccably set with an assortment of nuts, cheeses, and fresh fruits. I was also excited to taste the wines Valeria had selected for us. I am relatively new to the wines of Moldova, but over the past 3 years, we have done quite a bit of business together.

“Gregory, how is it you first came to Moldova to learn about our wines?” She queried.

“I was in Ukraine at a posh restaurant in Kyiv. Going over the wine list, I noticed that one of the wines was a Rkatsiteli from Moldova, not Georgia,” I paused in reflection. “I then  called for the sommelier to inquire as to whether the difference was merely geographical.”

“And what did you discover?” Valeria was quick to ask.

“Same grape varietal,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “However, a different way of making wine which resulted altogether, in a completely different style of wine.”

Our first wine was a Cricova Vin de Colectie Gratiesti 1990.

This is an interesting sweet wine made from 100% Rkatsiteli grapes and aged in French oak for 5 years. Once the wine has been bottled it is sealed under cork and a wax capsule. Our wine had a burnished coppery hue, along with a rich orange-gold, and  shimmering notes of red. The nose clearly declares an oxidative style, with woody baked fruit, and an earthy character that dominates. There are also aromas of nuts and raisins. On the palate, it begins with a rich fleshy style before it reveals flavors of nutty fruit. The finish is distinctly characteristic of this style of wine and the region. For the novice to the wines of Moldova, the oxidized style may be a bit too dominant.

“The fountains are just decorations in the garden of the Milestii Mici Estate. Underneath is the real treat, the world’s largest wine cellar …. )))”

“I whole-heartedly agree,” Valeria flashed me a quick smile. “What I find more interesting is that even though you are not overly fond of sweet wines, you do appreciate this favorite wine of Moldova.”

“Noroc,” I toasted Valeria. “I think it is more that I understand the viticultural history throughout this part of the world,” I gave her an enthusiastic grin. “I find the wines and winemaking techniques throughout Eastern Europe to be the among the most interesting.”

“Gregory, I think you should also share with our readers some information about the Cricova wine region.”

The grandeur of Moldova’s wine heritage can best be found in Cricova. The region is located just north of the capital city, Chisinau. Perhaps the most famous landmark, and originally what took me to this fabled area were the cellars of the Milestii Mici Estate. Sitting atop a labyrinth of cellars, the estate stores more than 2 million bottles of locally produced wines in some 155 miles of corridors. Milestrii can proudly boast that it is the world’s largest wine cellar.

Our next wine was a Vinia Cotnari Grasa de Cotnari 1995

This is an excellent semi-sweet white wine. It is partly barrique aged with an alcohol content of about 12%. In color, our Cotnari was a golden yellow, and most soothing to the eye.  On the nose, there is the distinct bouquet of apricot followed by an almost tranquil scent of wild flowers. On the palate, there is a walnut and almond quality that I enjoyed immensely. This is a wine to be enjoyed after a fine meal.

“I especially enjoy Cotnari with cake,” Valeria’s face broadened into a wide beaming smile. “I also prefer to serve this wine at about 50 degrees Fahrenheit.”

Grasa de Cotnari can boast a long and proud history in Moldova. Since the rule of Prince Stephen the Great, Grasa de Cotnari has been producing quality wines for over  600 years. Like so many wines produced throughout this part of Europe, Grasa de Cotnari is affected by Botrytis Cinerea (Noble Rot). Typically the grapes are picked once they begin to shrivel. Though this grape varietal originated in Romania’s Transylvania region, Grasa de Cotnari is only cultivated in Moldova.

Our last wine was a Senator Babeasca Neagra 2006

This wine was made of 100% Babeasca Neagra grapes with an alcohol content of about 13%. It is a lovely light red in color. The name Babeasca Neagra is quite fitting. The translation is “grandmother’s grape.” On the nose, our Babeasca displayed notes of black olives, plums, raspberries, and mulberries. I also noticed the slightest hint of graphite. On the palate, our Babeasca was well-balanced fruit and tannins. I particularly enjoyed the delicious suggestions of spice and chocolate. This wine has good length and a tangy, fruit-filled finish that would please anyone’s grandmother.

Valeria broke out into almost uncontrollable laughter. “You know Gregory, my grandmother was particularly fond of Barbeasca Neagra wine.”

Valeria was quick to add that our Senator Babeasca Neagra 2006 hails from the Insuratel region which lies in close proximity to the Black Sea. She also shared that the region’s sandy soil accounted for wines of high acidity. This style of wine is quite popular in Moldova because it pairs nicely with most foods and is made for current consumption. However, Valeria also noted that the very highest quality Babeasca Neagra are made in the Nicoresti District and quite suitable for aging.

“Gregory,” Valeria’s eyes crinkled into a smile. “I have a lovely surprise that I know you will enjoy.”

“Surprise me,” I exclaimed in anticipation.

“We will now proceed to a enchanting cafe that is owned by my friend,” she playfully smacked her lips. “They serve Placinte cu branza (cheese pies) and Isobala.”

“Isobala?” I queried.

“It is a wine made from the grapes on the farm of Tamara’s grandmother.”

“But that my friends, is another story … “