Tannat Flourishes in Uruguay

In the shadows of the Pyranees Mountains, the terrain is rough and rugged, yet a durable Basque grape varietal has risen to world prominence and popularity. Tannat is hardy grape that produces deep, dark, dry, rustic wines. Predominantly grown, in the Madiran region of France, vintners have produced some very fine wines. Due to its  verstility and popularity to be used as a blending wine, Tannat is now grown in the USA, Australia, Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay. In fact, Tannat is seen as synonymous with Uruguay.

Traditionally, it has been popular to blend Tannat with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Fer Servadou. Due to the soft tannins of Fer Servadou, it is often used to soften Tannat. However, in Uruguay, vintners take a slightly different approach. Tannat is often blended with Pinot Noir or Merlot to create softer, more well-rounded wines.

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Kasia Oreiro. We are in Urugugay’s capital city, Montevideo. This vibrant port city is lively and energetic. Montevideo is also renown for its architecture and rich cultural life. Kasia decided to hold our tasting in one of her favorite cafes, the Philomenc. French in style, the atmosphere is cozy and delightful. The Philomenc is a wonderful place to enjoy the ambiance, the people, and of course, the wine.

For our first selection, Kasia decided on a Pisano Rio de Parjos Reserve 2008 is an excellent example of the Uruguayan style. Over the years, the Pisano brothers, Daniel, Eduardo, and Gustavo have been producing some very remarkable wines. The Pisanos, with their wines from Canelones, are among the country’s top vintners. On the eye, the 2008 is deep, dark, and inky. On the nose, the bouquet is dominated with aromas of dark chocolate and coffee, followed by pleasant notes of cedar. On the palate the 2008 has abundant plum, black currant, and minerals. It is a hearty wine with a soft edge. The finish is dry and lightly tannic. The alcohol content is 14% with a bottle price of $18.

“I felt that for those readers who are unfamiliar with our style of Tannat, Pisano is a good wine for a start,” Kasia paused to collect her thoughts. “The wine has plenty of oak and a good balance of acidity and fruit.”

“Definitely a wine that is ready to drink now.”

“As for pairing,” she paused on the moment. “Grilled steak, braised ribs, roasted chicken, cassoulets, and firm aged cheeses.”

Our next selection, Puebla Del Sol 2007 30 Barricas Edition Limitada Tannat, is also from the Canelones appellation. In the glass, it is an appealing dark red striated by violet hues. On the nose, the bouquet is flushed with the aromas of ripe fruit and raisins followed by the light scent of leather and tree bark. The palate is silky textured but with just enough acidity to hold onto its balance. Flavors of berry and plum prevail, almost to the point of being overripe. The finish is layered with licorice and carob. The alcohol content is a bit higher at 14.5% with a bottle price of $25.

“A very jammy and chewy wine.”

“Definitely one to drink now,” I nodded. “With what dishes would you pair this wine?”

“Barbecue pork, grilled chicken, casseroles, rapani,” she paused lightly. “For sure, smoked Gouda cheese.”

Our next selection, Bodegas Carrau 2007 Amat Tannat is a wonderful example of Uruguayan Tannat. In the glass, the color is deep, intense, and almost black. The wine also shows some very long legs. On the nose, the bouquet is dominated by intense earthy tones, followed by hints of cherry, plums, licorice, and leather … all portraying the wine’s complexity. 0n the palate, the 2007 is earthy, complex, and dense, but with ripe tannins. Aging in oak added a nice aroma of fresh tobacco. On the back palate there was a most pleasurable hint of licorice, which gave way to elegance and length on the finish. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a bottle price of $30.

“I would pair this wine primarily with grilled meat, charcuterie, and strong cheeses,” Kasia concluded. “A very easy wine to drink.”

“I liked the wine’s firm structure,” I nodded in agreement. “I would also give it a go with spicy foods.”

For our last selection, Kasia chose a Bouza 2004 Special Barrel Tannat. The Bouza family is one of Uruguay’s most prolific wine producers, and the family has gained international notoriety for the quality of their wines. The 2004 is another wine from the Canelones appellation, and the Special Barrel selection clearly stands on its own. It is 100% Tannat and intensely powerful. In the glass, the wine is a strikingly intense ruby red. On the nose, aging in French oak is clearly evident. The bouquet is toasty with an alluring charcoal smokiness followed by subtle hints of vanilla. On the palate, the wine shows bright fruit, plums, and dried figs followed by light flavors of chocolate and cream. Over all, this wine is nicely balanced with soft tannins and a long and memorable finish. The alcohol content is 15% with a bottle price of $50.

“This is the Tannat I enjoy after a long day,” Kasia giggled under her breath. “And with some smoked Gouda cheese.”

“Yes, a mature cheese would go nicely,” I nodded in agreement. “Many of my friends and colleagues would simply enjoy this remarkable Tannat on its own.”

After several moments of silence, Kasia was first to speak. “Do you still plan to leave Montevideo tomorrow?”

“Unfortunately, duty calls,” I shook my head clearly displaying my regret. “I am booked on the afternoon flight to Istanbul.”

“The wine association and I have a parting gift, and we wish you a safe and speedy return,” Kasia presented me with a bottle of wine.

“An exceptional gift indeed,” I exclaimed knowing full well that a wine of this caliber was in the $120+ price range. “A Familia Deicas 2006 1st Cru d’ Exception Tannat. You and your colleagues are most kind, muchisimas gracias.”

“This wine is from the Juanico region,” she paused for effect. “On your next trip, we shall explore this region.”

“But that my friends, is another story … “

Malbec, One of the Traditional Bordeaux Varietals

What is there to do in Buenos Aires if you don’t Tango? Simple, drink wine. Argentina is renown for its red wines, especially Malbec.

This week I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Pilar Alonso. No relation, but we do manage to arowse curiosity when we check into a country inn and ask for two rooms. Pilar does manage to peak their curiosity by playfully asking for rooms with an adjoining door.

Just back from the Mendoza Valley we are lazing away the afternoon in Pilar’s favorite Buenos Aires cafe, Mama Racha. For a city the size of Buenos Aires, there are  surprisingly few open-air cafes. Set on the street corner, Mama Racha not only boasts an abundance of outdoor seating, they are also proud of their second story patio. From this vantage point, we have an ideal view for people watching. As we look out on to the bustling tree-lined Plaza Armenia we are able to comfortably enjoy the excellent Malbecs Pilar has selected for our tasting.

Malbec, often spelled “Malbeck,” in Argentina, and is the country’s premier red grape varietal. Malbec once dominated Bordeaux’s Medoc sub-region in the 1800s, however, it has since lost favor with French vignerons. This is most unfortunate because at one time, Malbec was grown in almost every region in France. It fell from favor in part because French vintners primarily used Malbec as a blending wine, and they also saw it as short lived. Not at all an appropriate wine for aging.

This is perfect for Argentina because here, Malbec truly comes into its own. The wines produced have shown to be softer and more lush in structure. They have also proven to age fairly well. Typically, Argentine Malbecs are medium to full-bodied and with plenty of acidity. The wines are pleasantly aromatic, and dominated by flavors of plum, cherry, black cherry, and anise. It is an extremely versatile and food friendly wine.

Our first selection, Luigi Bosca Reserva 2010 very much typifies the Malbecs of the Mendoza Valley. In the glass, the wine is a deep ruby red. On the nose, the bouquet is alive with aromas of blackberry, mocha, tobacco, accented with pepper and spice. The palate is a complex array of flavors of raspberry, olives, and the subtle smokiness of tobacco. The finish is long and complimented by fine-grain tannins. Definitely a wine with great body, structure, and personality. The alcohol content is 14% with a surprising bottle price of $15.

“I started with Luigi Bosca because I know how much enjoy their wines,” Pilar lightly stroked my hand. “Malbecs pair quite nicely with red meat, lamb, game, sausages, stews, and hard cheeses.”

“I find that Malbec can have a very unique pairing profile,” I paused in reflection. “Spicy foods such as Mexican, Cajun, Indian, Thai, and Italian …”

“Thai and Italian?” Pilar broke in.  

“I should have said Thai or Italian barbecue dishes.”

“Interesting,” Pilar nodded in approval. “I guess with the popularity of LA’s fusion cuisine scene, a versatile wine such as Malbec can be quite popular.”

For our second selection, Pilar decided on a Cobos Felino Malbec 2012. Respected Californian oenologist Paul Hobbs partnered with two Mendoza locals, Andrea Marchiori and Luis Barraud to create Vina Cobos. The goal was to combine New World innovations and European traditions to produce the world’s best Malbec. This offering is a blend of 97% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Merlot. In the glass, the wine is a rich red in color with deep magenta hues. On the nose, the bouquet is filled with flowery aromas of dark berries, anise, and vanilla. On the palate, the 2012 shows balanced acidity and freshness, and firm tannins. An intense wine that displays pure flavors of raspberries, black plum, with light hints of graphite. As the wine opens up, it unfolds in velvety layers with notes of ginger, white pepper, and chocolate. The finish is balanced with notes of cedar, slate, and mocha. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $25.

“I love the velvety layers of this wine,” Pilar said complacently as she enjoyed her wine. “A very easy wine to drink.

“A wine definitely meant to be drunk now,” I toasted her. “Salud.”

Our next selection, Lagarde Malbec 2009 is another classy wine. In the glass it is a very intense red, highlighted by shades of purple. On the nose, the bouquet is dominated by aromas of ripe fruit and preserves. There are also soft notes of vanilla and chocolate followed by the the faint whisper of tobacco smoke. On the palate, the 2009 truly comes alive with flavors of black plum, blackberries, hints of coffee, and caramel. This well- balanced, full-bodied wine is filled with ripe tannins. The creamy and silky smooth texture also adds to the wine’s sophistication.The finish is persistent with plenty of depth. The alcohol content is 14% with a bottle price of $30.

“A savory wine that can be enjoyed on its own or paired with a meal,” Pilar smiled with pleasure. “It would be difficult not to like this Malbec.”

“Definitely a wine with international appeal.”

Our last selection, Pilar decided on a Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard Vina Frederico Villafane 2008. In the glass, the wine is an intensely dark purple that is almost black. It adds to the wine’s allure by creating a sense of mystery. On the nose, the bouquet abounds with aromas of red fruits, black cherry, and candied orange. There were also subtle notes of spice and smoke. On the palate, as the wine opened up, there are flavors of sweet juicy fruit with nuances of mocha cream, chocolate, and almonds. The finish is long and pleasurable. The alcohol content is 14% with a bottle price of $40.

“I especially like the gentle tannins on this wine,” Pilar smiled complacently.

“An exceptional wine that any Malbec aficionado should add to his or her cellar.”

“Will you still be leaving for Uruguay in the morning?” Pilar queried

“I’m afraid so.”

“On this trip, will you be traveling to the wine regions in Peru or Brazil?” Pilar paused for effect. “They are no longer producing just table wines. Some exciting wines are coming out of these two countries.”

“But that my friends, is a different story … ”

Popular Flavored Vodkas from Ukraine

Known for its tasteful elegance, Kyivʼs Premier Palace Hotel is a vibrant symbol of Ukraineʼs era of grandeur and opulence. First built in the mid-19th century, the hotel boasts it was once the home of the renown Prince Dimitri Zhevahov.

Upon entry, the hotelʼs lavish lobby is the primary reason that the Premier Palace has become a popular place for a rendezvous. Making myself comfortable in the fashionable Lobby Bar, I awaited my dates.

Strutting across the spacious lobby like two fashion models, I was greeted by my fellow sommeliers, Elena and Svetlana. Elenaʼs eyes shone brightly, “Grisha, are you excited about todayʼs tasting?”

“I am always happy to raise a glass with both you and Svetlana,” I replied with a smile. “What surprises do you have for me?”

Elena motioned for our waiter to serve our zakuska, finger snacks that are favored by Ukrainians while enjoying vodka. “I took the liberty of ordering spicy sausages, goat cheese, and your favorite rye bread from Lithuania.”

“Well done,” I grinned with anticipation. “What is our first selection?” Svetlana broke in. “A lovely rye honey vodka by Nemiroff.”

Nemiroff is renown for distilling flavored vodkas and is one of Ukraineʼs most heralded distilleries.

Distilling horilka, as vodka is known in the Ukrainian language, is one of the countryʼs passions. Rye, barley, and wheat grains are quite popular in Ukraine. These grains are known to have more flavor and complexity than beets, sugar cane, corn, or potatoes. In fact, potato based vodkas tend to leave a slight oiliness on the palate. The art of infusing vodka with flavors has long been practiced in Ukraine. As legend would have it, adding honey to rye vodka was a favorite with Cossacks, Ukraineʼs fabled light cavalry.

On first sight, the rye honey vodka appears to have a light almond coloring. Visually, it looks much more flavorful than classic clear vodka.
Raising and clinking our glasses in unison, we toasted in the obligatory Ukrainian manner … “Budmo.”

On the nose, the sweet accents that permeate the air make this rye honey vodka most appealing and inviting. On the palate there is a creamy texture with rye as the dominant flavor as the honey flavor trails gently behind.

“Mmm” … Svetlana grinned. “Chilled to perfection at 41 degrees Fahrenheit. By chilling this vodka there is relatively no burn.”

“I like the infusion of honey. It adds texture to the already complex layers of this rye vodka. “ With delight, I offered the ladies another round.

Elena nodded in agreement. “Laced with a hint of honey makes the difference. Grisha, did you notice that the rye flavors in the bread taste even sweeter?”

Svetlana was quick to chime in. “When paired with food, both the rye and honey flavors prevail. I know your preference is for goat cheese, however, this vodka also pairs nicely with Swiss cheese.

“Grisha,” Elena called to me demurely. “Rye honey vodka makes an excellent Martini, Cosmopolitan, and a Balalaika.”

Svetlana erupted euphorically. “Grisha with a cocktail?” “I drink martinis.”

“Grisha, a couple of ounces of vodka poured over ice, shaken thoroughly, and then strained into a glass is not a martini.”

“Donʼt forget the lemon peel,” Elena added with a chuckle.

Ukrainian women certainly have a talent for keeping their men in line. “Whatʼs the next vodka?” I asked with amusement.

“I selected Khortytsaʼs pepper honey hot vodka.” Elena presented us with a bottle.

On first glance I noticed this vodkaʼs bright golden amber color. Once Elena opened the bottle, a hint of delicate aromas of pepper oil, suede, anise, and clover honey, filled my nostrils.

On the palate, a soft silky entry leads to a round dryish body of zucchini spice bread, cola nut, clover honey, and green peppercorns. This vodka finishes with a hint of sweet and savory herb, hot peppers, and honey. Khortytsa is considered by many as one of Ukraineʼs most popular distillers. They certainly have come up with an interesting offering of a delicate blend of conflicting combination. A memorable taste with a long lasting after taste, not to forget a nice warming tingle.

“A challenging vodka for experimental cocktails,” Svetlana mused. “Yes, weʼll leave that to Eve,” I concluded with a wry smile.

“Grisha,” Elena called for my attention. Both Svetlana and I selected the last vodka. It is Kozatska Rada Zhensheneva.”

This is a first as I am not familiar with the distiller. Allow me an attempt at translating the name Kozatska Rada. In short, it would be a general meeting held by Cossacks. Considering the image of Cossacks getting together for a hard night of debating and drinking, the name makes sense. As for Zhensheneva, it is a style of vodka infused with ginseng root. Hence, we have a group of hard drinking warriors slashing their sabres in the air as they quaff down pints of this super potent elixir. Move over “Red Bull,” “Zhensheneva” is taking the reins.

Zhensheneva is meant to be served on the rocks. As the vodka opens up, the distinct aroma of ginseng permeates the air. I liked the exceptional softness with no bite or burn to this exceptionally refined vodka. Distilled from old Cossack recipes, the fabled warriors claim that this unique spirit has restorative and healing attributes. It is a fact that the Cossacks preferred the use mineral waters, and ginseng has long been acclaimed by several cultures for its tonic properties. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised.

“Grisha, did you enjoy our selections?” Svetlana queried. “I must admit that I truly enjoyed myself. Now let me take you ladies to dinner.”

“Our favorite Cossack restaurant,” Elena said assuredly. Vodka Samogon, the perfect way to finish the evening.

Literally translated, samogon means “self distilled.” In Ukraine, distilling vodka in the home or for a restaurant is legal. And my friend Bogdan is not only great with duck, he knows his way around samovar still. But that my friends is another story …

Romance Champagnes for the Cassanova

Moscow’s Red October district not only has an infamous history, this is now the hub of the city’s nightlife. Just ask any Muscovite who fancies himself “hip,” and most likely they’ll direct you to Red October. Just a fifteen-minute stroll from Red Square, the district is a compilation of red-painted buildings that are home to some rather unique clubs and bars. Among the most upscale, Rai Club.

This afternoon, I am meeting with two longtime friends and fellow sommeliers, Lenka Kovaleva and  Ksyusha Petrova. Since both women know the management at the Rai Club, we were allowed to hold our tasting prior to official opening hours.

“Grisha,”Ksyusha called for my attention. “Are you excited about our tasting, Champagnes for romance?”

“In the company of two such lovely ladies, who am I to question love and romance?”

“Oh Grisha,” Lenka’s eyes sparkled. “You are such a Cassanova.”

Rather than pick three chic Champagnes that are typically selected from what is considered to be among the world’s best, the ground rules laid out that we had to think from outside the box. So Lenka could not pick a Champagne from her favorite, Perrier Jouet, Ksyusha could not select from Louis Roederer, the top choice of most Russians, and I could not go with my standard, Bollinger. Considering that Russians consume more Champagne than any other country, and have done so since the imperial days of Tsar Peter the Great, I felt that I was in the best company to explore the wold of Champagne.

“Grisha,” Lenka’s eye’s crinkled into a smile. “Both Ksyusha and I wanted to do something different since your trip last year to Russia.”

“Ah yes,” I paused in fond reflection. “Last December I was in Saint-Petersburg.”

“I remember,” Ksyusha was quick to tease. “You were visiting Anastasia and Larisa.”

“Well then,” sensing the awkwardness of the moment,“What is our first selection?”

“I have selected a wine that I know will meet with your approval,” Lenka flashed me an eager smile. “Femme Champagne by Duval Leroy.”

This is an interesting blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. To begin with, the exquisitely designed, very proudly feminine shaped bottle, is indicative of the high quality independent female run Champagne house. The Grand Cru Prestige Cuvee is vivaciously elegant and crisp. There are lush pastry undertones that will please even the most discerning palates, and at the same time, tickle the fancy of those who like to taste beyond the mainstream of Champagne. This is the ultimate indulgent gift for women, made by women.

“Grisha,” Lenka flashed me a wide beaming smile. “Keeping that in mind, Christmas is just around the corner.”

“So noted,” I chuckled softly as I fed Lenka a strawberry.

“This Champagne has a lively citrus style that most Russians are looking for in their Champagne.” Ksyusha was quick to add. “The nose offers summer flowers, followed by a creamy elegance.”

“I like the wine’s firm acidity, toasted hazelnuts, and just a hint of coffee on the palate,” Lenka nodded her approval.

“I would also add that the Pinot Noir grapes impart a roundness and character that I find most appealing,” I smiled enthusiastically. “Are we ready for our next selection?”

I decided on a real stretch for me. My selection was a Besserat de Bellefon Blance de Blancs. This is an exceptional quality non vintage wine, 100% Chardonnay grapes and  an alcohol content of 12%. At first sight I was immediately drawn to the color. Our Champagne was a very pure bright yellow with golden highlights. To add to the Besserat de Belleton’s allure, were nice bubbles, and an intense nose that revealed citrus notes, and well-developed toasted aromas. This wine was ample and well-structured on the palate.

“I would also add that the range of aromas expands with hints of dry fruit,” Ksyusha paused to savor her wine. “Apricot in particular.”

“I also picked up some honeyed notes on the mid-palate,” Lenka paused to collect her thoughts. “Exquisite balance. The texture is astonishingly light, and the finish harmonious with rich intermingling flavors.”

“I also believe this wine has a high potential for aging,” I paused on the moment. “I’d let it develop for another four years.”

Both Lenka and Ksyusha nodded in agreement. “A fine wine indeed,” they chanted in unison.

Our last wine had been selected by Ksyusha. She decided on a Cuvee Rose Brut Champagne by Laurent Perrier. It is 100% Pinot Noir and 12% alcohol. This stunning saignee rose is easy to find anywhere and most appropriate for those impromptu romantic moments. This is a best-selling Champagne and quite popular with most couples on Valentine’s Day. It is rich in color, fresh on the nose, lashings of summer fruits, redcurrant raspberries, and delicious citrus notes on the palate.

“I find that one bottle is never enough,” Ksyusha flashed an almost mischievous grin.

“So …” I smiled broadly. “The way to your heart is Laurent Perrier Rose Brut.”

“This wine also pairs nicely with chocolates and cheeses,” Ksyusha was quick to add.

Lenka nodded her approval. “The fruit is dominant in the mouth with first impressions being very acidulous and frank. I do like the large array of small red berries.

“Well ladies,” I paused to gain their attention. “These are some lovely sparkling wines that are appropriate for any romantic tryst and I enjoyed our tasting.”

“Grisha, I’d like a bird’s eye view of the sunset,” Lenka’s eyes crinkled softly.

“The Sky Lounge?” Ksyusha queried.

The Sky Lounge takes you up 22 stories to the top of the Academy of Sciences building on Gargarin Square, from where you can look down upon the whole of Moscow. Unsurprisingly, the view is breathtaking.

“But that my friends, is another story … “