Small Batch Bourbon in Ukraine?

“I was totally dumbfounded by your call,” Elena Boiko, my longtime friend and fellow sommelier, smiled. “Gregory Alonzo willing to share his private bourbon stock with me?” she playfully teased. “I thought American men preferred to imbibe in bourbon and smoke cigars when they shared in man talk.”

“Now when have you known me to smoke a cigar,” I laughed jubilantly.

“Then it dawned on me,” Elena paused lightly and flashed me a teasing smile. “Grisha has been watching  the Hustler.”

“Bourbon, J.T.S. Brown,” I quoted Eddie Felson, the film’s lead character. “This is where my fascination with bourbon began.”

“How so?” Elena queried.

“My father’s favorite movie star was Paul Newman. Together we would watch The ‘Hustler,’ and often times go out and shoot pool,” I paused in fond reflection. “One day I was helping my grandfather around the house when I came upon a bottle of J.T.S. Brown Bourbon. Gramps told me to grab a couple of glasses and he poured us each a drink.”

“How was it?” Elena clearly displayed her interest.

“It was everything one would expect from a $10 bourbon,” I erupted euphorically. “My Gramps’ toast was much more memorable.”

“And what did Gramps have to say?” She laughed along with me.

He quoted Mark Twain. “There’s no such thing as too much good whiskey.”

“Grisha, what prompted this bourbon tasting? Elena asked flatly.

“When it comes to spirits, I am often identified with vodka and brandy,” I chuckled under my breath. “In reality, I’m just an old bourbon man at heart.”

“OK,”  she flashed me a quick smile. “My Kentucky gentleman, please share with our readers a little about your passion for bourbon.”

Bourbon has been produced since the 18th century and has long been closely associated with the American South. The name is derived from Bourbon County, Kentucky and in turn was named after the French royal family. What separates bourbon from other spirits is that it must be made from a grain mixture containing at least 51% corn. Bourbon is also aged in charred oak barrels for a minimum of two years, and has no added flavoring or coloring. This then, classified as straight bourbon. The charring of the oak casks gives bourbon its reddish-brown coloring and unique flavor. In the past, bourbon was distilled in alembic or pot stills, however, today the use of a continuous still is quite common.

“Grisha, I am a bit confused,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “What exactly is ‘small batch’ bourbon.”

“A small batch bourbon is made for the true connoisseur,” I smiled. “Essentially, it is the practice of mixing the contents of a relatively small number of selected barrels. Small-batch is considered to be an upper-premium bourbon and must be aged a minimum of six to nine years.”

“Let’s see if Mark Twain was correct,” Elena’s tone of voice expressed her enthusiasm.

Traditional bourbons contain 8-10% rye. This makes for a bold and spicy spirit. Four Roses 2012 Small Batch Limited Edition has a much higher rye content at 20%. The alcohol content is 55.1%, aged 12 years, and a price tag of $70. What makes this spirit  so special? Quite simply, Four Roses has managed to create one of the all-time great bourbons. This is a true sipping whiskey. The color is medium amber with copper and burnt orange. On the nose, there is a myriad of aromas ranging from cinnamon, spice, maple, chocolate, cherries, orange, vanilla, all with the softness of sweet fruit. The palate is very well structured with layers of flavors ranging from toffee, vanilla cream, maple, and cinnamon. The finish is woody with notes of spice, vanilla, and a lingering fruitiness.

“This is a bourbon not only worthy of sipping, it is a bourbon worthy of sniffing. I loved the complex aromas and fruitiness that filled my nostrils,” Elena clearly showed her glee.

“Four Roses is a rich bourbon meant to be enjoyed fireside with that special someone,” I nodded in agreement.

“I did have some reservations with the high alcohol content,” Elena remarked.

“Many bourbon drinkers like a splash of water to open it up,” I paused lightly. “In the Southern States it is quite popular to enjoy bourbon with branch water.”

“Branch water?” Elena queried.

“This is the water of the distillery that is often bottled and sold in small quantities.”

Our next bourbon, Knob Creek Small Batch is aged for 9 years. This is a robust and sophisticated spirit with density and power. Predominately wheat, it is 50% alcohol and a price tag of $55. The color ranges from copper to medium amber. The nose is rich in deep aromas of toasted nuts, overripe peaches, grain, and oak. There are hints of caramel, cinnamon, and vanilla. As Knob Creek begins to open up, there are clear notes of spicy rye, beeswax, and linseed oil. The palate is full-bodied, honeyed progressing to an intensely grainy and drier mid-palate. The finish is long and rich in almonds, nougat, and oak.

“I especially like the rich texture on the finish of Knob Creek,” Elena flashed me a subtle smile. “This is definitely your palate.”

“Knob Creek is indeed the bourbon I drink most often,” I chuckled under my breath.

Our next bourbon is the one that everyone wants. It is a Pappy Van Winkle and there are 3 offerings. 10-year old at $40, 15-year old at $80 and a 23-year old at $230. The alcohol content 45.2%, 53.5%, 47.8% respectively. This is a wheat based bourbon and we tasted the 15 Year Old Family Reserve. It is a rich copper in color. The nose is of caramel, spice, toffee, pecans, and toasted wood. On the palate, Pappy Van Winkle is softer and smoother. There are hints of spicy, raisins, and barrel char.. The finish is long with caramel, coffee, and spices.

“This is a well-crafted bourbon that you can spend an evening discovering new aromas and flavors.” Elena was pleasantly surprised. “There is a lot of depth to this spirit.”

“I particularly like this bourbon’s healthy dose of barrel char,” I smiled in agreement. “With time and air, Pappy Van Winkle only gets better.”

Our last selection differs from the others in that it is not from any of the legendary Kentucky distilleries. Hooker’s House Bourbon hails from California. What separates Hooker’s is that it is aged in new American Oak barrels  for four years and then further aged in Carneros Pinot Noir barrels for an additional nine months. Double barreling produces a spirit that is enhanced by Wine Country influence. The color is a most lovely medium amber, while the nose is filled with aromas of cherries, figs, plums, and violets. The palate is definitely bigger and bolder than the nose. There are distinct flavors spice, cinnamon and cherries abound in this well-balanced bourbon. The finish pleasant, fruity, and the lush cherry flavor proves to be an ideal blend with sweet vermouth. This Sonoma-Style Straight Bourbon is 50% alcohol and retails for $40.

“I loved it!” Elena said emphatically. “The cherry aromas and flavors made this bourbon quite memorable.”

“I must admit that the double barreling creates a bourbon unlike any other.”

“Grisha, I’m ready for a Manhattan or two,” Elena playfully teased.

“But that my friends is another story …”

My Favorite Georgian Sparkling Wines

Rolling green hills and the open expanse of lush vineyards dominate the panorama of the Alazani Valley.  A wise man once said that the land of the gods is in essence, a vineyard between two mountain ranges. Since the legendary quest of Jason and the Argonauts to the land of Colchis, as this fabled land was known in antiquity, the Greek heroes discovered something more valuable than the coveted “Golden Fleece.” What they found was simply the best wine in the world. Wine is and has always been, what truly defines the Republic of Georgia.

Today I am once again joined by my fellow sommeliers, Medea and Shorena. From our terrace vista, we have a lovely view of our hostʼs vineyards. Our table has been impeccably set to include an assortment of local fruits, goat cheese, and of course, lavash bread.

“Grigol, we have selected three of your favorite sparkling wines from Bagrationi 1882,” Medea said assuredly.

It was Prince Ivane Bagrationi Mukhraneli who first launched production according to French methods back in 1882. Today they can can proudly boast that they are Georgiaʼs leading producer of sparkling wines.

“Excellent selection,” I smiled as I looked over the wines. “We shall start with the Classic Brut,” Shorena spoke with anticipation.

Anyone who knows champagne is quick to note that the three most common used grape varietals are pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier. Not in Georgia. Local winemakers are partial to using only indigenous grape varietals.

“Our Classic Brut,” Shorena paused momentarily to collect her thoughts. “Our Classic Brut is made from Chinuri, Tsitska, and Mtsvane Grapes.”

“Methode Charmat,” Medea was quick to add.

Holding up my glass, the wine has a pale straw color with steady vigorous bubbles. The nose is a bit reserved with a subtle hint of apple and pear.

Gaumarjos! We jubilantly toasted each other.

On the palate, the Classic Brut is very clean and crisp with light green apple flavors. It is light in style, even on the finish.

“Very Prosecco-like,” Medea said matter-of-factly. “All in all, a fine bubbly.” Shorena was pleased by her selection.

“Grigol,” Medea exclaimed with excitement. “I selected a bottle of your favorite.” “The Reserve Brut?ʼ I cocked a curious brow. “Indeed. It is a 2007.”Medea said proudly.

The Reserve Brut is made using methode Champenoise. The grape varietals are Chinuri, Tsitska, and Mtsvane. It is pale yellow straw in color. The nose is light and floral. On the palate, it has a creamy mouth-feel with good depth of ripe pear and fruit flavors. The finish is exceptionally strong with persistent flavors and a crisp dryness.

“I love this wine,” Medea smiled softly. “I especially like the finish.”

Shorena nodded in agreement. “This wine also has good depth.”

“Our last wine is a 2007 Royal Cuvee,” Medea handed me the bottle. “Grigol, perhaps you should share with your readers the correct way to open a bottle of sparkling wine.”
Flashing a quick smile, I nodded in agreement. “Actually it is quite simple. Place one hand on the cork and the other on the bottle. I usually turn clockwise with the hand on the cork and counter-clockwise with the hand that is on the bottle. Voila … no spray or spills. Only a nice pop.”

“You ought to see him do it with a sword, Medea laughed with delight. “Pity we donʼt have a Shaska saber on hand,” Shorena joined in on the merriment. Chuckling under my breath. “Ladies, letʼs press on.”

Our 2007 Royal Cuvee proved to be a most elegant wine. On the nose, it is delicate and refined with a hint of white flowers, and ripe apple. It has an expressive palate with excellent acidity and balance. There is also a creaminess of ripe pear and a hint of almond. The finish is crisp, long, and with a persistent richness. The Royal Cuvee is made from a blend of old vine Chinuri grapes using methode Champenoise.

“The grapes are from the Kartli region?” I queried. “Of course, “ Medea replied. “A fine wine indeed, “ I flashed a smile. “I could drink this wine all day long, “ Shorena exclaimed. “Touche,” Medea agreed as she applauded the wine. “Ladies, you out did yourself today,” I nodded in approval. “What is next for this trip?”

Medea gave a subtle grin. This weekend we have a very special tasting planned when we arrive in Batumi Beach.”

“But that my friends is another story … “

The Prisoner is Out

Ever since its release, Dave Phinney’s Zinfandel based, “The Prisoner,” captivated the wine world. For many, it came as a surprise in 2010 when Phinney’s Orin Swift Cellars sold two of their most popular wines, Saldo and The Prisoner, to Chile’s Huneeus Vintners. According to Phinney, the sale is more of a partnership as Huneeus owns Quintessa Vineyards in Napa Valley. Plans have been launched for Phinney to develop projects in both Chile and Argentina, and beyond.

In recent years Orin Swift has been investing in properties throughout the world and producing some very exciting wines. Once again I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. Also joining us is my friend from Los Angeles, Mark Fraser. We are also indebted to Mark for sharing these wonderful wines.

Up first, 2012 Veladora. This is a blend of 96% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscat. In the glass, the wine is a pleasing yellow, which is brightly illuminated. The nose is dominated by a potent aromas of fresh citrus fruit with peach and honeydew showing through. There are also accents of tropical fruits to fill out the bouquet. On the palate, the Veladora is light in body and well balanced. The lively acidity brings out a rich range of fruit flavors. Orange, tangerine, pineapple, nectarine, mango, and fig, all expressing themselves, yet maintaining harmony. The finish is clean with a pleasurable hint of minerality. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $25. On a completely different note, the proceeds of this wine go to “Puertas Abiertas,” (Open Doors) an organization that provides health and dental care services to California’s migrant vineyard workers. Kudos to Dave Phinney and everyone at Orin Swift.

“I like everything about this wine,” Mark expressed his glee. “It is fresh, bright, and tropical.”

“I do not overly care for California Sauvignon Blanc,” I paused for effect. “However, the Veladora is quickly changing my mind.”

“I like the roundness of this wine,” Elena spoke up. “It is much different than the usual grassier Sauvignon Blanc. I would serve it with a soft goat cheese. Crottin de Chavignol comes immediately to mind.”

“Definitely a versatile wine,” I replied. “I’d also go with fish, seafood, and even quiche.”

“I know what wine I’ll be serving next Thanksgiving,” Mark chuckled. “I’d also go with glazed pork or chicken.”

Our next selection, 2012 Mannequin, is a blend of California grapes. These include 40% Chardonnay, 14% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Grenache Blanc, 12% Viognier, 8% Marsanne, 4%Roussanne, and 2% Muscat. The wine has been aged over a 14 month period in 40% new French Oak, 40% in neutral oak, and lastly, 20% in stainless steel. Deep shades of gold and amber fill the glass. On the nose, the bouquet is an aromatic blend of citrus fruit and fresh cut wild flowers. On the palate, the wine is nicely balanced with a rich creamy texture. Tropical fruit and exotic spices prevail, followed by flavors of apricot and lychee, and tangerine being the most noticeable. The finish shows lively acidity and a nutty dessert cake flavor. The alcohol content is 15.5% with a bottle price of $30.

“Dave Phinney certainly knows how to blend wines,” Mark concluded with a nod of approval.

“A lot going on so the key is not to over analyze,” I said with assurance. “The Mannequin is simply a very easy wine to drink.”

“He certainly knows how to blend varietals,” ELena appeared pleasantly surprised. “This wine can easily be paired with several types of food. Barbecue immediately comes to mind.”

Up next, 2012 China Doll. This is a blend of Grenache and Syrah. This is a rose style wine that spent 8 months aging in stainless steel. In the glass the wine is a rosy red with a purple tincture. On the nose, the bouquet opens up to exotic spices with jasmine prevailing, followed by fresh berry fruit, and a wisp of orange peel. On the palate, there is good balance to the complex array of flavors. Plenty of ripe fruit, with melon showing through, followed by peaches and cream, and concluding with a dash of peppercorn. The finish is clean with just a trace of minerality. The alcohol content is 14.1% with a bottle price of $20.

“A lively wine that I just enjoyed drinking,” Mark flashed an even grin.

“China Doll is particularly complex for a rose wine,” I agreed. “I found this very much to my liking.”

“China Doll is a wine of endless possibilities,” Elena said flatly. “It can be paired with so many different dishes. The Jasmine and spice characteristics of the wine make my immediate thoughts lean toward spicy Asian cuisine or Indian curry.”

Our last selection, 2011 D66 comes from an Orin Swift property in Languedoc, France. This is a region that is quickly becoming a major force in French wines. The wine itself is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan. It was aged in 30% new French oak for 18 months and bottle aged another 5 months. In the glass, the wine is almost black, yet striated by hues of crimson. On the nose, the bouquet is rich and opulent, dominated by aromas of black cherry, plum, and blueberry. There were also pleasurable hints of spice, cola, and mocha. On the palate, the D66 is big, rich, and powerful. The wine exuded a complex array of flavors. Black cherry , blackberry, blueberry, plum, licorice, coffee,  pepper, and spice all made their presence known. The finish is long, velvety smooth, and memorable. Still a young wine, we decanted for an hour to give it some room to open up. The alcohol content is 15.2% with a bottle price of $40.

“If you like Grenache, the D66 is a sure bet,” Mark said with a smile.

“I like everything about this wine,” I nodded in approval. “Once the aromas permeated the air, I knew we were in for a treat. It is powerful, yet not overpowering.”

“I agree wholeheartedly. The D66 is very well made. ” Elena’s eyes crinkled softly as she smiled. “The spice of D66 would lead me to pair it with spiced or herbal dishes, and roasted meats. The high alcohol level can also help to reduce the burn of spicy food.” 

Lastly, I would also recommend some of the notable wines that Dave Phinney has produced in South America and Italy. You owe it to yourself to give them a taste.

“But that my friends, is another story … “

Midas Man or Imposter?

Living in Europe, I am often inundated with questions concerning the California wine scene. After all, we do have the reputation of abounding with new and innovative ideas for wines. In fact, when my stateside friends come for a visit, they are expected to pay tribute to this self-proclaimed Caesar. My friends are quick to bestow unto to me lavish gifts of California wines, especially those up comers to watch. In all seriousness, we enjoy catching up and discussing California’s current wine trends. Not to mention that my guest room is always open to my friends and colleagues alike. We Spaniards have a saying, “Mi casa, es su casa,” My home is your home.

Today, I want to spotlight the wines of one of my favorite California winemakers, Jeff Cohn. I am joined by special friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. We are also joined by fellow Californian, and wine enthusiast, Randy Morris. Randy is on holiday in Central Europe and I am indebted to him for sharing these lovely wines.

Headquartered in Oakland, California, Jeff Cohen is the proud owner of JC Cellars. If you are familiar with the 2003 Rockpile Road Zinfandel, then you already know why I hold Jeff’s Wines in such high-esteem. When Jeff was with Rosenblum Cellars, he was catapulted to repute with the success of this Zin. That year, Wine Spectator ranked Jeff’s Rockpile Road Zinfandel as 3rd on its Top 100 List for 2003. This was also a mark of distinction for California Zinfandel as no Zin had ever broken into the top ten. Then in January of 2006, Jeff made a move on his own with the launching of JC Cellars. Since then he has been focused solely on crafting some very special and distinctive wines.

What is Jeff formula for success? He searches relentlessly from California’s Santa Barbara region to Mendocino for only the finest fruit and the best vineyards. Jeff also goes to great lengths to combine crème de la crème of California with the age-old French notion of terroir and minerality.

Sonoma’s rugged Rockpile soil is characteristic of producing some of the most complex and profound minerality in all of California. The 2011 Buffalo Hill Syrah is emblematic of the craggy soil in which it thrives. In the glass, it is a deep purple/black highlighted by hues of red. From sight alone, one feels compelled and is drawn to this dark and mysterious wine. On the nose, there is a burst of aroma. The bouquet is abundant in blueberry, blackberry, black pepper, and spice. On the palate, it is dense, rich, and full-bodied with silky tannins. The wine shows good structure, and exceptional minerality that balances nicely with good fruit. The finish is smooth and lingers. The alcohol content is 15% with a bottle price of $30.

“A powerful, explosive, and rich wine,” Randy clearly expressed his zeal. “I am surprised that I am not overwhelmed by the high alcohol content.”

“Very good minerality,” I replied as I took another sip. “This is a wine to be leisurely enjoyed.”

“I am often pleasantly surprised with the caliber of California wines,” Elena smiled delightfully. “I would pair this Syrah with a rib-eye steak, a rack of lamb, and even venison.”

Up next, 2011 El Diablo Vineyard The Fallen Angel. Fruit from the Russian River Valley’s El Dorado Vineyard produces some of Sonoma County’s finest wines. While Grenache is often blended, The Fallen Angel stands alone. This seductive wine is 100% Grenache. In the glass, its deep dark red color is pleasing and inviting. On the nose, the bouquet is alive with aromas of lavender and pepper. There is also a whisper of cherry similar to that found in kirsch. On the palate, the wine is ever so smooth on the tongue, displaying good blueberry fruit as it trails into softer fruit flavors. The finish is strong and juicy yet maintaining its complexity. Grenache has yet find its rightful place in California’s hierarchy of wines, the Fallen Angel is a sure bet to lead the way. The alcohol content is 15.3% with a bottle price of $45.

“I was surprised by how smooth and easy this wine is to drink,” Randy was first to comment.

“Wines produced from El Dorado Vineyard, grapes most always produce good wines,” I paused for effect. “Jeff Cohen has demonstrated time and again that he knows how to create wines of distinction.”

“He certainly hides the alcohol level well,” Elena’s eyes sparkled as she smiled. “Due to the wines spiciness and pure red fruit, it will pair nicely with hearty dishes like cassoulet or less spicy Asian dishes.”

Our next two selections are particular favorites. In 2010 I was first introduced to Jeff Cohn and two of his wines, “Smoke & Mirrors” and “The Imposter,” by friend and Los Angeles wine buyer, Robert Tapia. I was immediately captivated by the distinctiveness of the wines and Jeff’s prowess as a winemaker. 

Let’s take a look at a 2012 Smoke and Mirrors. This is an intriguing blend of Zinfandel, Syrah Petite Sirah, and Alicante that delivers. Initially, I had my doubts, but once again, Jeff’s mastery prevailed. In the glass, the wine is dark garnet almost maroon in color. The nose is fresh with the bouquet filling with aromas of cherry, spice, bright earth, with only a whisper of oak coming through. There’s not a lot of wood because the Zinfandel was fermented in cement. On the palate, the wine is a complex array of pure fruit. While flavors of wild raspberry and blackberry dominate, there are notes of pepper followed by hints of cream and cocoa. The finish is medium and pleasurable. Over all, a very easy wine to drink. We  did decant Smoke and Mirrors for just under an hour. The alcohol content is 14.8% with a bottle price of $25.

“An excellent blend that surprised me,” Randy chuckled with amusement.

“I must admit that initially I had my doubt’s,” I also broke into laughter.

“This is more of a party or cocktail wine,” Elena spoke softly as she considered the wine. “I would serve it only with a wine and cheese platter.”

Our last selection, 2010 The Imposter, is a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Viognier. In the glass, the wine appears as an opaque black purple. The nose is a wonderful array of aromas. Dominated by blackberry and raspberry, there are hints of black cherry, licorice, vanilla, dark chocolate, and a gentle whisper of herbs and roasted coffee. On the palate, The Imposter is full bodied and concentrated. There is good blackberry and raspberry fruit followed by alluring array of flavors of Asian spices, smoke, and cedar. The finish is distinctive with a big vanilla finish. There a lots of tannins so we decanted the wine for a good hour. The alcohol content is 14.8% with a bottle price of $35.

“What a nice balancing act!” Randy’s tone was one of assurance.

“When I was first introduced to this wine, my initial reaction was oh, hell no,” I chuckled softly. “After the first taste, my only thought was, hell yes!”

“Another festive wine,” Elena nodded approvingly. “It is big and rich, not syrupy and no raisiny notes.”

I am not the biggest advocate of high alcohol wines, however, Jeff Cohn seems to have found that balance. The Midas Man’s wines are a pleasure to serve with any meal or to simply sit back and enjoy.

Now if I only had a bottle of the 2003 Rockpile Zinfandel … “But that my friends, is a different story.”