Italian Whites to Beat those Summertime Blues

A few years ago, my favorite Russian pop singer, Zhanna Friske had a hit song entitled, “Somewhere it is Summer.” For those who have never traveled to the north of Russia, Finland, or Scandinavia, these peoples live for and worship the sun. For those of us living in more Mediterranean climates, we simply look for ways to beat the heat.

The best remedy I know for the summertime blues … wine. However, which wine would a be a more apropos question. We are all quick to reach for our favorite whites wines. Today I am going to challenge you to reach a little further, and try something new.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia lies in the northeastern region of Italy. Just south of Austria and west of Slovenia, one can find the widest array of white wines in fact, more than in any other part of the country. In this region of gentle rolling hills and alluvial soils, such indigenous grape varietals as Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Verduzzo abound.

Today we ventured to the renown mountain resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Italy’s most famous mountain destination is affectionately called “the Queen of the Dolomites. I am once again joined by long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. After a long day of hiking, we have returned to the town of Belluno for some wine and refreshment.

“Did you know that we Italians call Belluno “the Gateway to the Dolomites?” Serena smiled as she poured us each a glass of wine.

“It seems only fitting.”

Our first selection, Friulano is among Italy’s best white grapes. Serena selected a La Tenutade Angoris 2011. At first glance it is evident that this is a special wine. Our Friulano is a rich gold in color. On the nose, an intensity of peach and apricot opens the bouquet of this fragrant wine. On the palate, the rich stone fruit is supported by the wine’s overall density and creamy texture. The rich fruit eventually gives way to a silky finish. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“I love the beautiful white peach aromas,” Serena’s eyes brightened as she smiled. “This wine will go nicely with the steamed shellfish and seafood pasta that I ordered.”

“I should also think that it would equally pair as well with white meat.”

“For those who like aromatic wines,” Serena paused for effect. “Friulano is a must.”

Serena picked a Malvasia Istriana as our next selection. The varietal actually originates from the Croatia’s Istria Peninsula. Over the past few years, this popular grape has been planted in select regions of northeastern Italy. To date, they have shown great promise.

“It is believed that Malvasia first made its way into Italy via Venetian traders,” Serena paused to collect her thoughts. “It is not an easy grape to grow because it has large vigorous clusters, and yields must be controlled.”

Serena had selected a Sirch Malvasia 2011. On the eye it is light gold in color, reminding one of melon.The bouquet is of zesty citrus fruit, and on the palate, there is a most enjoyable crisp intensity. This is a very clean wine that is filled with bright notes of green melon and lime. The finish is also very clean and crisp. This is the perfect summer wine when lounging poolside or enjoying the view from the veranda. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $20.

“Definitely a wine to be shared with guests,” Serena smiled softly.

“What dishes pair best with this style of Malvasia?” I queried.

“Definitely grilled fish,” she paused on the moment. “I often serve Sirich Malvasia with brill flatfish baked with capers, olives, and cherry tomatoes.”

Our next selection hailed from Italy’s mountainous north. Pinot Bianco is clearly an expression of the Alpine breezes that have shaped and balanced a mildly fragrant wine. This is a grape that thrives in cool climates. Serena selected a Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2011. On the eye, it is a soft straw color. The nose is layered with pineapple, pear, melon, and a hint of exotic fruits. Our 2011 showed very nice structure. It is an elegant wine with fruity flavors that are a bit playful on the mouth. The finish shows good, and memorable length. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“I like to serve Pinot Bianco with Risotto with golden apples, and chopped pieces of pork,” Serena smiled brightly.

“I can see that,” I nodded in agreement. “The sweetness of the apple would nicely contrast the saltiness of the cured meat.”

Our last wine, Ribolla Gialla, enjoys an almost cult-like appeal with aficionados. Though popular today, Ribolla Gialla dates back to the 13th century. To add to the wine’s allure, vintners have conjured everything from light sparkling styles to thickly extracted whites that can be cellared for lengthy periods. On the one side, vintners produce acidic, easy-drinking wines that abound in flowers and citrus fruits. On the other end of the spectrum, vintners like Josko Gravner reign supreme. Truly the lord of the realm, Gravner is known to prefer the grape’s pulpy fruit and thick skins. Through long macerations and aging in clay amphorae, Gravner produces wines that are golden caramel in color and richly structured on the palate.

Serena selected a Gravner Amfora Ribolla Gialla 2005. On the eye, the wine’s striking copper-orange color heightens curi osity. There is an almost luminous brightness that defies the wine’s age. Gravner has chosen to mature his Ribolla Gialla in clay amphorae. On the nose there intense aromas of resin, pine nut, caramel, graham cracker, and candied fruit. It is rich, complex, and well-structured with a powerful fruit profile. The finish is long and memorable. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $120.

“I know you love Gravner’s wines,” Serena lightly stroked my arm. “His Ribolla Gialla is definitely your palate.”

“The 2005 is indeed a wine that can be enjoyed now or cellared another 10-20 years,” I paused for effect. “Gravner has produced a white wine that will eventually drink like a fine Barolo.”

“I especially love pairing Ribolla Gialla and pumpkin risotto with chopped rosemary sprinkled with shavings of smoked caciotta cheese,” Serena’s tone was one of great delight.

“Well, on that note,” I nodded in agreement. “Let’s order dinner.”

“But that my friends, is another story …”

Romania for Rose Wines

 

Mamaia Beach on Romania’s Black Sea coast is one of my favorite places to both work and play. Though I prefer the northern coastal area, the sandy beaches that have been immaculately manicured wind southward for a good 75 miles. The Black Sea lifestyle suits my pace, and Romanians know how to enjoy life.

Romania has been producing wines for some 6000 years. The region boasts that it has one of the world’s oldest wine making traditions. Due to the multi-varieties of wine and affordable prices, Romania is now one of the world’s largest wine producers.

Today I am once again joined by long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Valeria Dadiani.

“I haven’t seen you since our last trip to Moldova,” I smiled in fond reflection. “I see that you have already begun working on your tan.  You know how I love sailing and the sea,” Valeria’s eyes crinkled softly as she smiled. “Are you ready to enjoy some great summer wines?”

On a warm sunny day there are few wines more refreshing than a bottle of Rosé. Pairing Rosé wines includes endless possibilities. This is a versatile wine that can be served with almost any type of meal.

“Valeria, what cheese do you prefer to serve with a Rosé?”

“With a dry Rosé, I often go with goat cheese,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “The cheese’s tangy flavor pairs well with wines that are bright and acidic.”

“I would also go with a soft goat cheese.”

“Rose also  pairs nicely with fresh vegetables, seafood dishes such as grilled tuna, shrimp, and salmon,” she smiled anticipation.

“I see that you ordered our salmon poached,” I nodded in approval.

“Just the way you like it,” Valeria was quick to show her pleasure.

Just then our waiter arrived with a plate of grilled asparagus.

“One of your favorites,” Valeria chuckled lightly. “I remembered your penchant for Spanish asparagus.

“It was my grandfather who encouraged me to eat asparagus. He loved it grilled and claimed the best was grown in Navarra,” I smiled in fond reflection.

“Noroc,” Valeria toasted me.

Our first selection was a sparkling wine from Zarea’s Diamond Collection. Zarea is Romania’s premier producer of sparkling wines and our Rosé was a unique blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Feteasca Negara. Zarea exemplifies both the passion and love that Romanian vintners put into their wines. This semi dry sparkler is produced in the traditional method of bottle fermentation and shows best at about 39 degrees Fahrenheit. The alcohol content is 11.5% with a price tag of $35. With a 100 year history, Zarea has developed an excellent reputation and is recognized both nationally and internationally.

“Americans,” Valeria chuckled under her breath. “You drink everything too cold. I’d serve this wine at 43 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“You’re sure you converted correctly from Celsius?” I toyed playfully.

“I’m sure,” Valeria erupted euphorically. “Let’s move to our next selection.”

Our next wine was a stylish pink in color, and made from a noble grape that is one of my favorites, Pinot Noir. The nose on our Paris Street Rose 2012 was filled with floral aromas and accented by the subtle hint of violets. On the palate, our wine was well-round with ripe red- berry flavors. This is an enjoyable and versatile wine that when served chilled, pairs nicely with veal, chicken, or salmon. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $15.

“This wonderful wine comes from our Dealu Mare region, which is quite similar in latitude and climate to Burgundy,” Valeria was quick to add. “Perhaps that is why I appreciate it so much.”

“There’s definitely a French accent on this one,” I paused on the moment. “What would you say is the best serving temperature?”

“Definitely 58 degrees Fahrenheit,” she replied flatly.

“I would have gone with 54 degrees,” we both broke out into laughter.

Our last selection, Monser Busuioaca de Bohotin is a lovely sweet wine from the Dealurile Husiului region. Monsur prides itself in that their wines reunite only pure Romanian varietals and are truly representative of the country’s vine growing tradition. It is also interesting to point out that in the past, only the old bourgeois, and not the peasants, were producing wines of any quality. The “La Belle Epoch” is emphasized by the motto on Monsur’s labels, “Soiruri pure Romanesti pentru boieri si obrazuri subtri,” which translates as “Pure Romanian varieties for the bourgeois and thin cheeks.”

“Your Romanian has certainly improved,” Valeria nodded in approval.”

“Considering that Romanian is the closest language to classical Latin,” I paused in fond reflection. “All those years of Catholic School  accounted for something.”

Valeria chuckled softly as she poured us another glass. Our Monser proved to be an excellent choice to pair with desserts. The bouquet is fragrant and filled with honeysuckle. It is elegant and sweet on the palate, and sure to enhance your choice of delectable. It is best served chilled at about 53 degrees Fahrenheit. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $15.

“This wine and grape varietal are unique to my country,” Valeria proudly added. We are proud that it produces such lovely and well-balanced Rosé ranging from medium to sweet.”

“I also picked up some ripe peach and just a hint of almond on the nose,” I nodded in approval.

“The sun is setting,” Valeria reached across the table for my hand. “Shall we stroll down to the beach for a moonlight swim?”

I flashed her an even grin, and anticipated the moment yet to come … “But that my friends is another story … “

The Georgian Feast: Supra, the Tamada, and Sweet Wines

What is a supra? This is the Georgian word for a “feast.” Food and drink are especially important to the cultures of the Caucasus. The supra is comprised of a vast array dishes oftentimes representing the various regions throughout the country. Let’s not forget the wine. The supra is also accompanied by large amounts of wine and a dinner may last for several hours.

During a Georgian supra, the role of the “tamada or toastmaster,” is an important and honored tradition. Since the dinner is more of an event rather than a meal, the tamada is expected to keep the festivities moving along and ensure that the wine keeps flowing. Since the tamada is in essence an entertainer, it is not unusual for our toastmaster to sing songs or recite poetry, and of course, make the obligatory toasts.

Since it is my last day in Tbilisi, Medea’s family have honored me with a supra. Medea’s mother, Dedisimedi Khetsuriani is a chef par excellence. Her specialty is Kakhetian cuisine which which is quite befitting as my favorite Georgian wines are from the Kakheti region.

Georgian cuisine is somewhat Mediterranean and Middle Eastern in flavor. Ground walnuts and cooking with walnut nut oil is what gives Georgian dishes their distinct and savory flavor. Also characteristic of Georgian cuisine is the spice mixture of khmeli-sumeli which combines garlic, chilies, pepper, and coriander. What, no saffron to such a rich blend? Georgian chefs prefer to substitute saffron with dried marigold petals. Meat dishes are not only the most popular, they are typically served with fresh parsley, dill, coriander and scallions.

Since boyhood, I have been reading the adventures of Marco Polo. The quest for spices has always intrigued me. Men willing to travel thousands of miles through uncharted lands to find the “end of the rainbow.” Georgian cuisine is completely indicative of what lies at the other end.

At length, dinner was served. To my delight there was batsurma, grilled lamb, and chikhirtmi, a lemony chicken soup. An assortment of dolmas, tomatoes, eggplant, and grape leaves stuffed with beef. A particular favorite, karcho, a rich spicy rice often flavored with lamb broth. A second rice dish, shilaplavi is also served with potatoes. Kinkali pork dumplings and of course, fresh baked lavash bread.

“Medea, will your Uncle Shalva be joining us for the supra?” I queried.

“Who knows, he is often so busy with work.”

Shalva Khetsuriani is the head of the Georgian Sommelier Association. I’m not actually sure if he is a blood relation or a friend of Medea’s father, Khevitso, whom he brought into his family as the Khetsuriani clan have opened their hearts to me. I have known Medea’s father since my first trip to Georgia. He has always been instrumental in helping me with the necessary documents for export such as, bills of lading, and letters of credit. In fact, it was Khevitso who first introduced me to Medea.

As the supra progressed, we shared several bottles of wine, however, I would like to focus on three semi-sweet selections. Kindzmarauli, Khvanchkara, and Ojaleshi.

Regarded as one of Georgia’s premier appellations, the wines from Kindzmarauli are indeed a national treasure. Our Telavi 2007 Kindzmarauli is vinified from saperavi grapes and have a little natural residual sweetness. This gives the wine an appealing and rounded texture. Inferior Kindzmarauli can sometimes be overly sweet and feel sticky on the palate. Our selection is a deep inky purple red with notes of crushed blackberries, damson jam, and spice on the nose. To taste, there are vivid berry fruit flavors that are gently sweet with supple tannins. This wine pairs best with sweet cakes, farmhouse cheeses, and walnuts.

“Khevitso, what is it about Kindzmarauli that you love?” I queried.

A smiled filled his face. “I love saperavi, it is our national grape. Kindzmarauli displays the versatility of this grape.” He then popped a walnut into his mouth. “It also goes well with walnuts.”

The second of our semi-sweet wines is a 2005 Khvanchkara from Tbilvino. It is a blend of two local specialities, Alexandrouli and Mujuheretuli. This wine comes from the picturesque slopes of the Cacusus Mountains of northern Georgia.

Khvanchara is a deep purple in color and our wine is no exception. There are aromas of smokiness and wild strawberries that are quite alluring. On the palate there is a subtle blend of dried fruit, pomegranate, and a hint of caramel. There is plenty of lively acidity to keep this wine fresh and balanced. Try it chilled at about 50 degrees Fahrenheit as an aperitif, or with chocolates and nuts. On a different note. It is well-known that Khvanchkara was a particular favorite of Joseph Stalin.

“Grigol,” Reza, Medea’s brother, called for my attention. “Did you know Stalin was a Georgian? his real name was …

“His name was Ioseb Jugashvili,” Medea’s grandfather, Anzori, broke in. “The name Stalin mean, ‘man of steel.’ I spit on his grave!” He said with complete scorn and disdain. “Pour the next wine.”

Medea selected a 2005 Ojaleshi from Teliani. This is an interesting and often over-looked wine by Western palates. Ojaleshi is an intriguingly pleasant wine from grapes of the same name. It is dark ruby red in color with a delicate herbaceous bouquet and hints of cherry and raspberry. It is well-balanced between fresh acidity and natural sweetness.

“It can be served as an aperitif or with any desert,” Medea was quick to add. “I prefer Ojaleshi chilled at somewhere between 46-54 degrees Fahrenheit.”

One of the things I like most about Georgian semi-sweet wines is their versatility. These wines pair nicely with a wide array of foods. In Russia, Georgian semi-sweet wines are often paired with huge platters of red meat. Russians love to quaff down a seemingly endless stream of wine during a barbecue. Another point I will make about these wines is they can be served as an aperitif or with any desert. They range in alcohol content from 11-12 per cent and are quite mild. Room temperature or slightly chilled, it makes no difference, Kindzmarauli, Khvanchkara, and Ojaleshi are simply a delight on anyone’s palate …

As my plane began its ascent, I drifted languidly into thought of a time long since gone by. A time of heroes, magic, and enchantresses. Just before dozing off my thoughts settled on the Golden Fleece, Jason, and his marriage to Princess Medea of Colchis … But that my friends is another story …

One Traveler’s Tale

Lublin, Poland has been an important trading site since the early Middle Ages. Due to its economic prominence, the city has been attacked and sacked by Tatars, Ruthenes, Yotvingians, and Lithuanians. By the late 1200s, Lublin was under the rule of the Kingdom of Galicia-Volhyna and eventually by the 1400s absorbed into the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.

Today, Lublin remains a thriving commercial center that maintains its rich cultural heritage. This picturesque part of Poland has always been one of my favorite places to visit and conduct business. Lublin has long been renown for its vodka distilleries. Two of my favorite clients, Snow Leopard and V-One, produce their vodka at Lublin’s Polmos Distillery.

Recently, both Elena and I have been constantly traveling and I promised after this trip, we would take a break. She particularly likes Truskavets. This small town is in the foothills of Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains. Famed for its spas and mineral waters, Truskavets is the ideal location to get away from it all. However, I have digressed. Let’s take a look at our first vodka, V-One.

Affectionately known as “the world’s most drinkable vodka,” Paul Kazub’s recipe just may prove that assertion to be true. Distilled from 100% Spelt grains, V-One is lightly scented with aromas of sweet creamy vanilla. The palate is medium bodied and exceptionally smooth, and with a pleasurable mouthfeel. Flavors of mineral, powdered sugar, and wheat toast add to its complexity. The finish is smooth, with virtually no burn. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $30.

Is it Spelt grain that makes this vodka so intriguing? If so, what exactly is Spelt grain? Similar to wheat in appearance, Spelt grain has a much tougher husk. This could be in fact why it produces a spirit that is nuttier and slightly sweeter than most wheat vodka. Spelt grains have been an important staple since the Bronze Age. However, by the Middle Ages, it had all but become a relict crop. Today it is only found in small pockets of central Europe, northern Spain, and selected plantings in the USA.

There are other factors that also make V-One such a special and highly regarded vodka. Crafted in small batches, it is also distilled five times which ensures a notably clean finish. Since Polmos first opened its doors in 1906, they have managed to stay on the cutting edge of producing only the best in premium vodkas. To enhance their sophisticated distillery process, Polmos is renown for combining the most modern and up to date equipment, with Old World know how.

After a mutually lucrative day with my business associates at Polmos, I departed for the train station. Unfortunately, I was quick to learn that I had missed my connection. To make matters worse, there were no other trains departing to Lviv, Ukraine where I was to meet Elena. The next train traveling in the direction where I needed to be was in 30 minutes, and it was bound for the small Polish border town of Przemysi. I quickly bought a ticket and called Elena so she would not worry.

Upon arrival in Przemysi, I was disappointed to learn that the next train for Lviv wasn’t until 3:00 AM. To make matters worse, I was out of Polish Zloty. I had a wallet full of Euros, US Dollars, and Ukrainian Hryvnia, but no Polish currency, at least not enough to buy a ticket. American Express Platinum card to the rescue. Unfortunately, they did not take AMEX. Surveying the station, I promptly set out to see if any of my fellow travelers were willing to exchange Zloty for the currency of their choice. I only needed 75 Zloty, but unfortunately, no takers. Last resort … cab drivers. I went outside and was in luck. The second cabby that I approached was willing to make the exchange for Euros. I quickly whipped out my mobile phone and checked the the day’s exchange rate.

After thanking the cabby, I sauntered back into the station, 80 Zloty in hand, and eager to buy a ticket. I forgot to factor in tax and service charges, but it seems that luck was now on my side. The price of the ticket was 79 Zloty and some change. I jokingly told the elderly lady behind the counter to keep the change. She chuckled lightly and reminded me that I had a long wait, and there was a charge if I needed to use the WC.

As I strode briskly into the main lobby, I was greeted by a young university student who was also wearing a New York Yankees baseball cap. He was quick to ask what the NY on our caps meant. Since mine was a special edition cap, I showed him the small banner stating that the Yankees had won 27 World Series Championships. I further went on to boast that the Yankees had dominated baseball over the years, and the team that won the second most championships was the St. Louis Cardinals. And they had won only 11 World Series titles. Obviously not a baseball fan because he did not seem to care much. What seemed to preoccupy his thoughts was the simple fact that the NY was for New York. He then asked me join his group, and to my delight, they were sharing a bottle of Pravda.

Pravda means “truth.” This rye based vodka is definitely one of Poland’s most popular spirits. Rated as an ultra-lux vodka, Pravda boasts that it bests all the major brands in blind tastings.

Pravda vodka dates back to 1743. First distilled by royal decree of King Augustus lll, the spirit was hailed as the “jewel of vodkas.” (Today all bottles of Pravda are adorned with a beautiful blue carbuncle to commemorate its proud heritage). Since its inception, Pravda has been distilled in Carpathia’s pristine mountain district of Bielsko-Biala. For Poles, this is the heart of historical vodka production. Pravda is distilled in small batches from late harvest rye. The nose is lightly accented by a an array of citrus aromas. On the palate, Pravda is smooth and mellow, yet losing none of the complexity that is typical of rye vodkas. There is also a hint sweetness and citrus fruit flavors, followed by a pleasing minerality. Carpathia’s spring waters are known for their mineral content. I suspect that this adds to Pravda’s flavor. There is a slight, but not unpleasant burn on the finish. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $25.

Once my new found friends boarded their train for Krakow, I settled back and reflected on the day’s events. I had not slept for 30 hours and I was tired. To my dismay, I fell asleep. When I awoke, I learned that I had missed my train. To add to my horror, there was not another train to Lviv for 24hours. Fortunately the vodka gods were with me. The old lady working the ticket counter gave me a refund and directions to the bus depot.

Fortunately the morning bus for Lviv was in a few hours. When I called Elena, I promised to drink plenty of coffee to stay awake. She was quick to recommend espresso. She then playfully toyed with me and said that due to tardiness, and the great worry I had caused her, I had to buy her a new pair of boots.

Once my bus arrived, I was excited to see it was a luxury Euroliner. As I handed the driver my ticket, he told me there were only 12 passengers, so sit anywhere I like. Once I boarded, I was shocked to see the bus was filled with various Polish goods. In reality, I was on board with a group of smugglers. To add to my dismay, the ring was comprised of elderly ladies.

Just as I was about to doze off, one of the babusya (Ukrainian for grandmother) shoved a bottle of vodka in my face, and invited me to join them for a drink. I was quick to say that it was not my custom to drink liqour in the morning. However, I had experienced a trifling night, and the vodka was a Ukranian favorite, Nemiroff Lex.

The Lex is a premium rye vodka that has been aged in wood for 6 months. Next the spirit is required to undergo 11 stringent stages of purification. The nose is more aromatic than the typical rye vodka. Notes of Linden Blossom and oats prevail. There is also a whisper of lemon and citrus. All follow through on the palate, yet much more prevalent. There are also some welcome flavors of spice. The mouth feel is warm and pleasurable. The finish is detectably smooth. Nemiroff Lex is indeed a vodka to be sipped and enjoyed neat. The alcohol content is 40% with a bottle price of $35.

At length, we arrived at the Lviv bus depot. Patiently awaiting my arrival was Elena, and it was no surprise to see that she was already wearing a new pair of boots. The only remaining issue was the presence of vodka on my breath. I’m sure that would cost me at least another pair of shoes.

“But that my friends, is a different story … “