Rye Renaissance

Our founding father’s certainly appreciated quality liquor. Most did not follow the colonial custom of drinking rum. Benjamin Franklin brewed beer. Thomas Jefferson was also a brewer and set up large vineyards at Monticello. George Washington had his own recipe for porter, a dark brown bitter beer brewed from malt that has been partly charred. In 1797, our first president set up a whiskey and brandy distillery at Mount Vernon. In fact, the Mount Vernon Distillery actually became one of the largest in our fledgling republic.

Just what was the whiskey of choice of the father of our country? Rye. Rye you ask? The same drink that we see in Western films where the Duke himself comes barreling into a saloon, throws a dollar on the bar top and says, “Give me a shot of rye.”

There is a Rye Renaissance in the world of spirits. Quality distillers are experimenting with America’s favorite whiskey prior to Prohibition. The resulting spirits have been taking the market by storm. In fact, November of 2012, George Washington’s Mount Vernon Distillery reopened and has been selling a version of the rye whiskey that was once made by George Washington.

What is so special about rye? This grain is often used in the distilling of whiskey and vodka to add flavor and complexity.

Today, I am joined in my flat by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. Today we will be tasting some very select American Rye Whiskies.

“Grisha,” Elena paused to collect her thoughts. “I know you appreciate fine bourbon, brandy and vodka, what prompted you to start experimenting with rye?”

“I must admit that I was not one of the innovators with the re-birth of rye,” I laughed under mu breath. “I was quick to jump on the band wagon. Now, let’s just say I am a promulgator.”

“What attracted you to this spirit? Elena asked softly.

“I especially like rye vodka. My favorite rye vodka is Starka.” I paused for emphasis. “Not only is Starka aged in oak barrels ten to fifty years, and buried underground …”

“Grisha,” Elena broke in. “Since Starka is barrel aged, why is it not considered whiskey?

“I guess that is a future topic,” I nodded playfully. “Actually, in Canada, Starka would be considered whiskey.”

“Let’s drink some rye,” Elena openly displayed her enthusiasm.

“Touche.”

In the United States, by law, rye whiskey must contain at least 51% rye. Other ingredients used for the mash are typically corn and malted barley. Rye must be a minimum of 40% alcohol, and aged in charred new oak barrels. Rye whiskey must also have been aged for a minimum of two years to be designated as “straight” rye whiskey. The resulting spirit is acclaimed due to its distinctive flavor. Rye whiskey is primarily known for the spicy and fruity flavor that it adds to whiskey.

“Grisha, I am curious about something,” Elena paused for effect. “Considering that rye was originally America’s whiskey of choice for cocktails over bourbon, how do they differ?”

“Cocktails made with rye tend to be drier than the same drink made with bourbon,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “Once prohibition was lifted, the popularity of bourbon was on the rise. The only people left drinking rye, were the lonely old fellows sitting at the end of the bar.”

Our first selection is the the perfect introduction to rye whiskey. Sazerac Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey has been aged for 6 years. It is a deep amber in color and the nose is filled with the dense aromas of vanilla and apricot, with an array of spices including clove, anise, and pepper. On the palate, the rye comes more into play. It is full-bodied and there is a healthy dose of spices, citrus, toffee nut and charred wood. The finish is creamy and smooth with licorice and smoked pepper tones.  Sazerac Rye is 45% alcohol and a great value at $30. America’s premier cocktail, “The Sazerac” has  long been synonymous with the city of New Orleans. Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey was used to make the original cocktail.

“There are a lot of flavors,” Elena smiled with delight. “I can see why it is popular with bartenders.”

“Precisely,” I flashed her a quick smile. “In New Orleans, rye whiskey is Sazerac.”

Our next selection was Hudson Manhattan Rye. This is an interesting whiskey that has been aged for two years. It is a rich amber in color. The nose is filled with the aromas of cashew butter, figs, and rye bread. On the palate, Hudson is fruity, medium bodied, and nicely balanced. There are flavors of spice, honeyed grain, and a distinct woodiness with just a hint of sweetness at the end. The finish is not only excellent, there is a certain charm to Hudson. Hudson Manhattan Rye is 45.1% alcohol and a price tag of $45. Prior to Prohibition, New York was renown for its rye whiskey. Jenny Churchill, Sir Winston’s mother, is reputed to having made the Manhattan Cocktail famous.

“I love the complexity of Hudson,” Elena savored her drink. “Yet there is a certain savoir- faire with this one that I especially like.”

“I agree. Hudson is light and versatile, and at its best in a cocktail”

Our next selection was Reservoir Straight Rye. This is a Classic American whiskey out of Virginia. It is a handcrafted spirit that has been double distilled and aged to perfection in charred new American oak barrels. Deep russet in color, it is big and bold. The nose is densely packed with aromas of honey, spices, vanilla, and oak. Reservoir is full bodied and rich. The rye grain shows through strong and sharp on the palate. As it continues to evolve, Reservoir evokes a complexity that is unsurpassed. It is earthy and full of oak. The finish is distinctly long and memorable. Reservoir Straight Rye is 50% alcohol wit a price tag of $80. This is definitely asipping rye and a definite must add to the serious whiskey-lover’s collection. Perhaps an ice cube to soften the flavors.

“A very complex and memorable whiskey that I found most enjoyable,” Elena’s eyes crinkled as she smiled. “Reservoir is definitely your palate.”

“I am glad you enjoyed Reservoir, and you didn’t even need the ice cube,” I chuckled softly.

Our last selection was Old Portrero Single Malt out of San Francisco, California. The Portrero Hill Distillery uses a copper pot still and produces their uniquely American whiskey from mash of 100% rye malt. It is aged for three years in new charred oak barrels. It is made in the traditional style of America’s earliest distillers and exemplifies a rye whiskey of wonderful character. It is a deep amber in color and very smoky on the nose. It is laced with aromas of old leather and molasses. On the palate it is rich and full bodied. The dominant flavors are molasses, spice, and just a hint of vanilla. The finish is sweet , flavorful, and lingers for a moment as it fades into a light smokiness. This is a whiskey that one can sit and enjoy by the fireside on those cold San Francisco nights. Old Potrero Single Malt is 45% alcohol and a price tag of $100.

“A bit nostalgic. Longing for home?” Elena playfully teased. Old Potrero was quite interesting but a bit too smokey for my palate.”

“This is a unique whiskey with a character and flavor all its own,” I replied with a nod. “I think this is one that Scotch drinkers would prefer.”

“Scotch? When will we be doing a tasting on Scotches?” Elena toyed with me.

“Soon, but that my friends is another story …”

Sardinia: Italy’s Resorgimento

Sardinia is home to the ancient mythological hero-god Sardus Pater, and some surprisingly good wines. So good that these local treasures are indicative of Sardinia’s resurgence as an important wine region that is capable of producing fine wines to meet international standards. Today I am joined by long-time friend, and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. Knowing my interest in ancient history and willingness to explore unusual and interesting wine regions, it was only logical that when I suggested that we take some time off, Serena picked Sardinia.

The island’s history dates back to antiquity and has been colonized by everyone from the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Berbers, Spaniards, French, and Italians. No doubt the blending of such diverse cultures has led to a colorful viticultural history and unique portfolio of wine grapes.

What is most interesting with Sardinia’s wines, the varietals bear little resemblance to those on the Italian mainland. More often than not, the varieties are of French and Spanish origin. I was surprised to find an abundance of Garnacha, Bobal, Carignan, and Cabernet  Sauvignon.

So what do two sommeliers do on holiday besides enjoy the sandy beaches and pristine waters … drink wine, of course. We have chosen Poetto Beach, just on the outskirts of the city of Cagliari, for today’s wine tasting. This stretch of white sand is popular with both locals and tourists alike. Sun worshippers revel in everything from lazy days, to extreme sports such as kite surfing.

Serena selected some wonderful wines. We began with a Vermentino from Tuvaos. This wine is from the western region of Usini. On the eye our 2011 Giovanni Cherchi Tuvaos is a pale straw-yellow, with just a hint of green. It is not an effervescent wine, but there is just the slightest hint of bubbles. The bouquet is aromatic and filled with white flowers. There is also the suggestion of green meadows that adds to its allure. On the palate it is very fresh and enjoyable. It is smooth, richly floral, and elegant.  The finish is smooth, warm, and very long. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“I prefer Sardinian Vermentino over those from the mainland,” Serena said flatly.

“Agreed, too often Vermentino is much too sharp and dry,” I paused lightly. “With what dishes would you serve our Tuvaos?”

“Any type of seafood, especially fish,” she replied as she poured us another glass of wine. “I would also serve this wine at 52 degrees Fahrenheit to bring out its flavors.

Our next wine, Capichera Vigna’ngena Vermentino 2011, was definitely one of the first great white wines produced in Sardinia. It hails from the renown Gallura region. The allure of this wine is that it is aged in French oak barriques which gives it great intensity and complexity. On the eye, the wine’s color is a pale yellow straw. The nose shows notes of orange blossoms, rosemary, and thyme. On the palate, there is a perfect balance of acidity, sweetness, citrus fruits, and minerals. There was just the slightest hint of oak and the finish was medium and lost none of its flavor. Over all, this is a delicate and polished wine that is filled with subtle nuances.  The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $40.

“I knew this one would be your palate. It also pairs nicely with fish, shellfish, and seafood risotto,” she said as she gently fed me some clams.

“I know that Capichera wines are favored over all other Gallura wines and it is easy to understand why,” I paused to pour us both more wine.” I like the use of the French oak barriques. It definitely rounds out the character and flavor of the wine.”

Our next selection, Sella & Mosca Terre Bianche Torbato Alghero 2006 hails from Sardinia’s northwest. The Torbato grape, originally from Spain, is known for producing wines that are a delicate straw yellow, with golden hues. On the nose it is complex and persistent, with noticeable fruit aromas dominating. On the palate it is light and refreshing, crisp, and flavorful. The acidity of this fruit forward wine is naturally assertive, yet pleasing. There are also lovely suggestions of vanilla from oak aging. Sella & Mosca age the wine 4 months in 2 and 3 year old barrels. What emerges is a wine that is full-bodied, savory, structured, and complex. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $30.

“Sella & Mosca are among Sardina’s premier wine estates,” Serena’s tone was matter of fact. “The 1600 acre estate, with 1200 acres under cultivation, make Sella & Mosca one of the largest wine estates in all of Europe.”

“Definitely my preference on a summer day,” I nodded in approval.

“Torbato also pairs sensationally with shellfish and seafood dishes,” she said with calm finality.

Serena selected as our last wine, Vernaccia di Oristano Riserva 1988. Vernaccia, is from the Italian word vernaculo. It translates best as “common” or “indigenous.” Vernaccia Oristano is a sherry-like fortified wine from Sardina’s western regions. This style of wine is harvested and pressed in the standard way, aged in oak barrels for 3-4 years. The result is a wine that has a musty bouquet with an abundance of almond nuttiness on the nose. This golden yellow wine has a curious taste of bitter fruit on the palate. I did find it quite enjoyable. The finish is light and pleasant and loses none of its almond qualities. Over all, it is a delicate, yet complete wine. The alcohol content is 15.5% with a price tag of $45.

“I love this wine,” Serena gasped as she expressed her delight. “It is so gracious, so seductive.”

“What foods best match Vernaccia Oristano?” I queried.

“Prawns first and foremost,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “Cauliflower and black olive fusilli pasta, sweet potatoes, stuffed avocados, and eggplant are among my favorite pairings,” Serena chuckled under her breath.

“What is so funny?”

“I also like this wine with chocolate chip cookies,” she erupted euphorically.

“Well then,” I paused on the moment to share in Serena’s merriment. “Shall we talk a walk down to Poetto Beach? If we spot a bakery on the way, I promise to buy you a dozen chocolate cookies.”

“Make it a baker’s dozen and I’m out the door,” she playfully toyed. But that my friends, is a different story …”

Verdicchio: Italy’s Little Green One

 

Traveling throughout Italy is a journey that brings the past to life. This ancient land is rich with palaces, castles, monuments, and ruins that date back to antiquity. I guess that is one of the reasons I love this country so much, and dedicated most of my wine studies to the challenge of learning, and experiencing, the over 350 officially recognized varietals.

When most people think about the earliest days of Italian wine, their first thought is that of the ancient Romans. In actuality, it was the Etruscans, who as early as the 2nd century BCE, first began to cultivate grapes. As Greek settlers later made their way onto the Italian peninsula, they had a hand in the proliferation of wine making. However, it was the Romans who were the true innovators. Typical to their nature, Romans brought organization, and the pioneering of large-scale production to Italian winemaking. It was also the Romans who promoted storage techniques like barrel-making and bottling.

Today I am in the lovely central Italian city of Ancona. Situated between the slopes of Monte Conero, Monte Astagno, and Monte Guasco, we have an alluring view of the Adriatic Sea. As usual, I am accompanied by long-time friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. We have been traveling throughout the Marche region and enjoying my favorite Italian white wine, Verdicchio. Affectionately known as the “little green one,” the popularity of this wine dates back to antiquity. Legend has it that when Alarich, king of the Visigoths invaded Rome, he supplied his troops with ample amounts of Verdicchio to maintain their strength in battle.

Verdicchio is synonymous with dry wines in Italy. In the Marche region, two styles prevail in popularity, Verdicchio dei Castilli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matellica. However, both Serena and I feel that Verdicchio thrives best in Castelli di Jesi. When blended, Malvasia and Trebbiano are used as the traditional partners.

Verdicchio is a particularly aromatic variety. At its best, there are elegant aromas of citrus and nuts. The variety lends itself well to producing spumante. Sparkling wines are the local specialty on the Adriatc coast.

“Verdicchio is a pleasure to pair with most cuisines,” Serena paused lightly to ensure she had my full attention. “European, American, Asian, and Australian, are all enhanced by Verdicchio.”

“What dishes in particular?” I queried

“Roasted flounder, turbot fillets, prawns, marinated eel,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “Smokey roasted peppers, eggplant, onions, bean salad, peanut dressing, and lemon butter, to name a few.”

Our first selection, Sartarelli Verdicchio Classico 2009 is pleasing on the eye. Striated with golden hues, one feels that something special is about to happen. On the nose, our Sartarelli continues to please. The bouquet is filled with dried, flowers, peaches, and herbs. This is a medium-bodied wine that is well-balanced and polished. It fills the palate with an array of citrus flavors, nuts, and just a hint of honey to make it memorable. The finish is silky and soft. The alcohol content is 11.5% with a price tag of $15.

“This is an excellent daily drinker,” Serena was quick to add. “It pairs nicely with both fish and white meat.”

“Lunch or dinner, this is definitely the go to wine,” I flashed Serena a quick smile and a nod of approval.

Our next selection, Frazi Battaglia Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi San Sisto Classico 2007 immediately grabs one’s attention with its remarkable golden color. At first glance, I mistook it for a dessert wine. However, it is wonderfully refreshing and dry on the palate. The bouquet is most enjoyable with subtle hints of lemon, lime, and apples that lead to a full-body. The finish is long, flavorful, and creamy. This is definitely a wine to be enjoyed with seafood dishes, and since we are in Italy, that means calamari. The alcohol content is 12% with a price tag of $25.

“I really like this style of Verdicchio. It is so refreshing,” Serena was smiling as she spoke. “I would chill this at 54 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“What strikes me is the wine’s persistent fragrance,” I paused as I smacked my lips. “I also pick up just a hint of almond”

“I knew that this would definitely be your palate,” Serena smiled as she poured our next wine.

Our last selection, Aziende Agricola Bucci Verdicchio Riserva 2006 is deep gold in color. The wine has spent 6 months in oak and another 6 months in the bottle. The result is a wine that is much more concentrated. The bouquet is filled with floral and fruit accents that never diminish. It is medium-bodied and nicely balanced with flavors of spice and wood. Our Riserva it soft on the palate with an elegant and long finish. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $55.

“This is a splendid Verdicchio that is meant to be shared with that special someone,” Serena smiled with subtle coquetry.

“I’m thinking this wine would be perfect to serve with oysters or lobster.”

“I would also be comfortable serving this special cuvee from Bucci with white meat and cheese,” Serena paused to collect her thoughts. “And chill it to 65 degrees Fahrenheit.”

“You know how much I enjoy Verdicchio,” I gave Serena a wide beaming smile. “You out did yourself with this tasting. What’s next?”

“I’d love a stroll through the garden.”

“But that my friends is another story …”

Are Super Tuscans Within Your Reach?

Toscana is arguably Italy’s most renown wine region. It is also the homeland of antiquity’s Etruscans, who in turn, greatly influenced the Romans and their culture. Tuscany is rich in history, culture, art, and scenic landscapes that are filled with rolling hills and some of the world’s finest vineyards. Tuscany is not only the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance; it is the home of the prestigious “Super Tuscan” wines.

So what exactly is a “Super Tuscan?” The primary characteristic is that these wines must adhere to a minimum of 85% of grapes grown in Tuscany. It is also important to note that the local vintners oftentimes do not use Sangiovese as the dominant varietal. Bordeaux grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are popular choices. The wines are made in the international style and aged in new French oak barriques. The finished wines are filled with plenty of robust fruit, and lose none of their Italian soul. Due to their strong acidity, Super Tuscans are better served with food. Tignanello, Solaia, Magari, Ornellaia, Picconero, and my personal favorite, Sassicaia, produce some of the most notable and expensive wines.

Today I am joined by my very special friend and fellow sommelier, Serena Dutto. We are in the historic city of Siena, at the Plaza del Campo. It is a warm summer day and we are thankful for the shade provided by the ominous Torre del angio (Mangia Tower) that is looming above.

“Grigorio,” Serena called for my attention. “I have some wonderful surprises for you today.”

“You never fail me,” I replied evenly. “This is why I love working and spending time with you.”

“I know that in the States, most Super Tuscans are priced at $200 and above,” Serena paused to collect her thoughts.” I have selected some memorable wines that are all priced at around $50 a bottle.”

Can’t afford the famed Ornellaia at $200 per bottle? Then go with the next best option, Le Serre  Nuove. This is Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia’s second label. Serena selected a Le Serre Nuove Bolgheri 2005. This dark reddish purple wine combines the smooth juicy plum fruit of Merlot (40%) and the structure, cassis, herbal notes of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%).  The remainder is 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. This is a full-bodied wine that is supple and fresh on the palate. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $55.

“This wine is rich in tannins and will pair nicely with the heartiest of red meats,” Serena nodded in assurance.

“Definitely a Tuscan take on a classic Bordeaux.”

Our next selection, Villa di Capezzana, Ghiale della Furbe 1998 hails from the Carmigano district, a relatively small area just outside of Florence. This wine is a wonderful example of a Bordeaux style wine. It is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. What makes this wine exceptional is that the Bonacossi family was able to combine the fruit and roundness of Cabernet Sauvignon, with the elegance and suppleness of Merlot and Syrah. In color, it is a deep ruby red with purple hues.  This nose is filled with an array of cassis, black cherries, sage, and chocolate. This is definitely a full-bodied wine that is abundant in formidable tannins. The alcohol content is 14% with a price tag of $55.

“A fantastic wine,” Serena’s eyes sparkled as she smiled. “I often enjoy this wine with meals.”

“I would definitely say that this is a wine worthy of aging.”

“Half a case for now, and lay down the other 6 bottles,” Serena flashed me an almost mischievous grin.

Our next selection, Gaja Ca’Marcmanda Promis 2006 hails from Tuscany’s coastal district of Maremma. Over the years, the Gaja name has become synonymous with producing elegant and opulent wines. Our wine proved to be up to Gaja’s stringent standards. The 2006 consists of 55% Merlot, 35% Syrah, and 10% Sangiovese. On the eye it is a deep dark red. The nose is filled with generous amounts of dark ripe fruit. This is a wine of quality. On the palate, it is well textured and balanced. The overall experience is one of grandeur without paying a king’s ransom. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $50.

“Gaja built their reputation producing lovely wines from Piedmont before expanding into Tuscany,” Serena was quick to add.”

“They definitely found the mark with this one,” I flashed Serena an even grin. Overall, I find this to be a most delightful and elegant wine.

“I am pleased that you enjoyed today’s Super Tuscans,” Serena smiled broadly. “I think for our next tasting we should share with our readers more of these great wines, yet with an emphasis on Sangiovese based blends.”

“Agreed,” I gave her my nod of approval. “I am, after all, rather fond of Sangiovese … But that my friends is another story.”

Dolcetto Dogliani … My Daily Drinker

Italy’s Piedmont region is surrounded on three sides by the majestic alps. From striking mountain peaks to rolling hills, long summer days, and refreshing nights, this is a land of  noble of wines. In fact, Italy is a land of a multitude of wines. Over the years I have learned that the count ranges from 2000-3500. Oftentimes when I quote these numbers I am also reminded that only about 700 varietals are used to produce wines of repute.

Today I am joined by fellow sommelier and longtime friend, Serena Dutto. She is a graduate of Italy’s prestigious, Associazione Italia Sommelier (AIS). Serena invited me to her hometown of Dogliani, in the Cuneo region, to experience some of the local wines. Serena is also fluent in the local dialects of Piedmontese and Occitan. I know that the week will not only be filled with interesting wines, but a strong dose of local history and Serena’s flair for the lifestyle of Piedmontese.

From our terrace view of the Osteria Vineria il Torchio, we are free to enjoy the tranquility of this lovely town of less than 5000 people. Dogliani dates back to the 16th century, and wine cultivation in the surrounding hills, dates back to pre-Roman times. A time when the Etruscans were the dominate peoples.

“I love to sit here, drink wine, and thank God I returned home.” Serena quietly smiled.

“Come now, Rome could not have been all that bad,” I queried. “After all you were a sommelier in one of the “Eternal City’s” finest restaurants.

Serena patted me on the hand and changed the subject, “Let’s drink some wine.”

Sensing her discomfort and reluctance to further discuss the topic, I nodded in agreement. “Dolcetto?’

“Dolcetto Dogliani,” Serena was quick to correct me.

Dolcetto is a lovely wine that dates back to the late 16th century. It is a black wine grape varietal grown throughout the Piedmont region. The translation means “little sweet one.” I first discovered Dolcetto  back in my university days at the Claremont Colleges. Unfortunately, I misunderstood the name, I assumed it was sweet. Since my date loved sweet wine, I thought I’d be a hit. She did not care for the wine and I did not fair much better. However, I found my daily drinker. Since then, I have been having a long running love affair with my “little sweet one.”

No one is quite sure how the name Dolcetto came about. Certainly not with regard to the wine’s sugar levels. Dolcetto is typically dry. The wine can be tannic and fruity, and drinks best after 1 to 2 years after release. Serena, along with the majority of the local population believe that the name Dolcetto is derived from the hills where the vine thrives.

“Gregorio,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “We need to explain to our readers why Dolcetto Dogliani is simply the best.”

When most Americans are first introduced to Dolcetto, oftentimes their first exposure is to the wines of D’Alba. Though this is area is renown for viticulture, the Dolcetto that is produced is just not as bold as the wines of Dogliani. Many of the wines of Dogliani are ‘Superiore.’ A designation that pertains to wines aged a minimum of 14 months. Wines from D’Alba are meant to be drunk young and are an excellent choice for pizza and pasta dishes.

“Ah, our food and our first wine has arrived.” Serena looked over our table ensuring that all was just as she instructed. To my delight, there was an array of salty cured meats, pungent cheeses, and Serena’s favorite, tajamin. This is a local pasta from Langhe, and found more often in homes rather than restaurants.

“What is our first selection?”

“I know you will be pleased with this one,” Serena smiled with anticipation. “A Romana Carlo 2003.” She then filled our glasses and toasted, “Cin cin. Did you know that this informal toast originates from the sound that the two glasses make when they are touched together?”

“But of course,” I smiled. “The wine is excellent. This single-vineyard Dolcetto is concentrated and juicy.”

“I agree, a most impressive wine. I especially like the way the raspberry and black cherry flavors have rounded out.”

I smiled in agreement. “An earthy wine indeed. The finely polished tannins and good palate length make for a sophisticated mouthfeel. The finish is strikingly long and textured with excellent depth of flavor. I’d say about 13.5%”

“Gregorio, I think you will be equally pleased with our second selection,” Serena was quick to present the bottle. “ A Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2003.”

This is a top-notch Dolcetto. Virtually every year the wines of Einaudi feature masses of  bold dark fruit. Black cherries, plums, and some hints of spice.”

“I also pick up the hint of cinnamon and clove. There are also some tarry notes that I know you enjoy,” Serena smiled.

“This is a big , full-bodied tannic Dolcetto at 13% alcohol and drinks very well.”

“Luigi Einaudi is the oldest wine-making company in Dogliani. They have been making interesting wines since they bought the San Giancomo estate back in 1897.”

“Interesting,” I nodded in approval. “What is our final selection?”

“Our first wine would be priced at under $20 a bottle. My second choice would be closer to $30 per bottle. I decided to not concern myself with price on our final selection.”

Now I was intrigued. Sitting at the edge of my seat, I could hardly wait to see what Serena had selected for our enjoyment.

“I selected  a Poderi Luigi Einudi 2006 I Filari.”

This is an exceptional expression of Dolcetto. The wine is filled with licorice and earthy aromas. The palate is somewhat intense and laced with boysenberry flavors that linger on the long finish. This wine is 14% alcohol and would definitely benefit from a couple of years of aging.

Being quite familiar with this wine I flashed Serena a quick smile. “Not overly expensive. I’d say about $45 a bottle.”

“Remember Gregorio, the average person is buying Dolcetto as a daily drinker or a wine to go with pizza and pasta,” Serena said flatly.

“True, but over the past decade Dolcetto has gained in repute.”

“Possibly, I just feel that someone who is interested in the wines of Piedmont will always     think first of Barolo or possibly Barbaresco.” Serena’s tone bordered on insistent.

“You forget that as much as I love Barolo, I first discovered Dolcetto.”

Serena flashed me a quick grin. “I think you discovered Dolcetto before you could afford Barolo.”

Joining her merriment, I nodded in agreement. “Shall we make a move?”

“I feel like eating some torta dei tetti and introducing you to some of our more obscure local wines.”

“But that my friends is a different story …