The Fabled Land of Wines

 

The peoples of the Caucasus are quick to share a tale of their early beginnings. One day the gods of antiquity descended upon the Earth to divide the lands amongst masses. Everyone was in attendance, except the Georgians. When asked why they were not present on such an auspicious day, the Georgians could only laugh. They claimed that they were too busy with the harvest and of course, their celebration of wines. The gods were quick to query, what was so special about these wines. Several vintners immediately offered drinking horns filled to the brim with their succulent wines. Upon first taste, the gods of antiquity understood, and since there was no land left to be parceled, the gods gave the best land, the lands they had reserved for themselves, to the master makers of wine.

To the ancient Greeks the Kingdom of Colchis was mysterious place located at the end of the known world. Wrapped in myth and legend, this fabled kingdom was reputed to be in possession of the all powerful, Golden Fleece. And so, set out the heroic Jason and his band of Argonauts in their quest to conquer the unknown.

What we do know today is that Georgia has been making wine for over 8,000 years. Archeologists have traced the roots of Georgian viticulture back some 8 millennia. Such evidence proves that this region warrants the title, “the birthplace of wine.”

It is also interesting to point out that the peoples of the South Caucasus used a method of burying clay amphorae pots, known as kvevri to make wine. In this manner the wine undergoes both an extended fermentation and maturation in the clay vessel which often lasts from 20 – 40 days. This is known by the Georgians as the Kakhetian Style. Kvevri produced wines have a firm texture on the palate. On the nose, white wines develop aromas of apricots, citrus fruits, and subtle hints of nuts. Red wines are filled with the aromas black cherries and dark chocolate.

Another uniqueness to the making of the wines of Georgia is the practice of lining the kvevri with beeswax. This was primarily done to aid in preservation, yet it also added a distinctness to the wines of the region.

To add to the allure of these wines the simple fact that Georgia has not only the perfect climate, it also has the perfect temperature that is optimal for wine – making. This is because the vineyards are shielded from weather by the Caucasus Mountains. This results in sunny summers and mild frost free winters. This moderate climate is also fortunate to be filled with moist air from the Black Sea. Natural springs also dot the valleys, giving birth to the many prolific wine growing regions such as Kakheti, which includes the micro regions of Telavi and Kvareli. Regions such as Kartli, Imereti, Svaneti, Kveno, and Racha – Leekhumi abound with lush vineyards. These prime terroirs range across the country, subsiding atop  Apkhazeti on the Black Sea coast. It is only Georgia’s remote highlands that do not produce wine.

Georgia is indeed prolific when it comes to grape varieties. There are 525 distinct varieties. These days only some 45 are in commercial production, however the government is pursuing a policy of  continued development. So much so that they are encouraging vintners to develop now obscure varieties.

Georgia is also quite prolific in the production of Brandy. Following the French guidelines of VS, VSOP, and XO, Georgia has continually produced world class Brandy.

Though Georgia prides itself on its rich viticultural heritage, many of today’s vintners are attempting to appeal to Western palates or produce more cutting edge wines. One such vintner is affectionately known as “Georgia’s lady winemaker.” Baia Abuladze is quite progressive in her approach to making wine. Since Tslikouri grapes are among the most wide spread throughout Georgia and Baia’s home region of Obcha, she has produced some very tasty wines.

I recently I had the pleasure of tasting her Tsitsa – Tslikouri blend. This lovely dry white wine was fresh on the nose with hints of white peach and pear. On the palate, the wine is crisp with good acidity, and with notes of green apple and pear. The finish is clean, yet lightly accented by a whisper of fruit. Baia is known primarily for her both her dry and semi – dry wines. The Tsitsa – Tslikouri blend is a delicious wine to try first. It is very food friendly, especially with rice or pasta dishes. I enjoyed a bottle with a Georgian style rice pilaf.

Another up and coming Georgian vintner is Iliaa Pavliashvili. Iliaa specializes in beverages produced from honey. His mead is among the best offerings from Georgia. On the eye it is a bright honey color. The nose is lightly scented with fruit and a whisper of lemon. On the palate it is soft with some tannic structure followed with the suggestion of larger flavors. Overall it is a mead that is very easy to drink.

Iliaa’s honey brandy is truly a delicious liqueur. On the nose there is an incredible array of floral aromas. On the palate, this honey Brandy  is balanced, filled with a sweetness that is complex, yet not overwhelming. The finish is a little sweet but not in a cloying way.

Georgia is a land that is rich in viticulture and quickly regaining its rightful place in the world of preeminent wine producers. Not losing sight of this rich history, there is a new wave of cutting edge vintners like Baila and Iliaa who know that those who dare, do.