Spirits from the Duchy of Bukovina

For many of us in the West, the Carpathian Mountains have long been associated with Gothic horror stories. My brother, Jojo, has long been a fan of these tales of trepidation and intrigue. As boys, he would often amble about our home reciting his favorite warning from classic 1941 horror film, “The Wolf Man.”

“Even a man who is pure in heart

and says his prayers by night

may become a wolf when the wolfbane blooms

and the autumn moon is bright.”

And let’s not forget the centuries-old vampire himself, Count Dracula. The Transylvanian nobleman’s castle was located in the Carpathian Mountains near the Borgo Pass, the gateway to the count’s realm and the Scholomance. This is the legendary school of black magic run by the Devil himself.

Where exactly was the Duchy of Bukovina? Situated at the crossroads of the Kingdom of Galicia and Lodomeria, which lay within the Crown Lands of Cisleithania. It was the land east of  the Leitha River. Still lost? Now that I’ve had a bit of fun, these Middle Age realms were all eventually annexed by the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Leitha is a tributary of the Danube River. To clear up any last bit of confusion, Vienna was the capital of Cisleithania.

Today, Bukovina (the land of birch trees) is situated in West Ukraine and borders Moldova, which in 1994, declared its independence from Romania. I am in the city of Chernivitsi with my friend and fellow sommelier, Darina Sienkiewicz. We are on Olha Kobylyahska Street in the middle of the historical district. This area of Bukovina was occupied by the Austro-Hungarian Empire for almost 150 years. Videnska Kavyarnya, translates as the “Wiener Cafe,” reflects the historical quarter’s theme of a time when the Habsburg family reigned over the land.

As per the name, Videnska Kavyarnya, sausages of every imaginable meat abound. This is not to negate the cafe’s fine selection of beers, wines, and spirits. Point in fact, this is why we came to this popular eatery, the traditional spirits of “tuica and palinka.”

“The cafe reminds me of a restaurant owned by one of my clients in Los Angeles,” I said in fond reflection.

“How so?” Darina queried.

“Wurstkuche is renown for its exotic sausages,” I chuckled lightly. “They serve everything from alligator, buffalo, rabbit, rattlesnake, and so on and so forth …”

“Budimo,” Darina toasted me as we raised our first glass of the evening.

Tuica (twee-ka) is the national drink of Romania. It is estimated that over 75% of all plums harvested throughout the Carpathian basin and Romania are used in the making tuica. Do not be confused because the Romanian word for plum, is “prune” (prooneh). What we call prunes in the English language, is “prune uscate” in the Romanian lingua franca. In Romania, tuica is sometimes referred to as rachiu (rocky-you). Typically, pears are used in the making of this spirit. Tuica is crystal clear and looks identical to water. In fact, there is little to no taste in the mouth. It is only when it hits the stomach that you truly feel its gut-warming power. Tuica is generally distilled two times, and aged for six months, while some brands will age their spirits for as long as ten years. tuica should only be served at room temperature. The alcohol content ranges from 45-60% with a price tag of $25. So is tuica just Romanian slivovitz? Slivovitz differs in that the ground-up pits from the plums are used in the fermentation process. This is what gives slivovitz its nutty tones. What is interesting is that slivovitz is not all that popular throughout the Carpathian basin or in Romania.

“Grisha, I like the fact that tuica is almost tasteless,” Darina paused for effect. “On those cold wintery, nights it truly warms the body.”

“I’d say it warms the soul,” I jovially toasted her with another glass.

“Did you know that traditionally, a shot of tuica is drunk before a meal,” Darina paused slightly. “We believe that it opens up the palate and is good for digestion.”

“Interesting. I’m not quite sure about opening the palate,” I chucked under my breath. “I am sure that I will have no digestive problems.”

Our next selection, derives its name from the Slavic word “palit,” meaning “to burn.” Palinka also hails from the Carpathian basin and is considered traditional fruit brandy in the countries of the region. Though similar to tuica, palinka must be distilled twice and is much more refined. Palinka must be made exclusively from the fruits indigenous to the Carpathian region. In Hungary, it is believed that their soil produces the best fruits in the world. The usual alcohol content of palinka ranges from 37.5%-86% alcohol.

One of the most famous Hungarian palinkas is made from apricots. It is widely known as Futyulos Barack (baratsk) Palinka which translates as “Whistling Apricot Brandy.” This style of brandy gained international fame when Edward, Prince of Wales, shared with the press that since his 1936 visit to Hungary he had become a connoisseur. To date, every time a member of the British Royal family visits Hungary, they are presented with a bottle of apricot palinka.

“Palinka most definitely an acquired taste,” Darina’s eyes brightened with amusement. “You certainly have become quite the aficionado.”

“I discovered palinka some years ago,” I paused on the moment. “Since my first trip to Hungary, Percsetes has been a favorite,”

This is a perfect spirit to enjoy in a snifter. The mellow aromas of our Percsetes Barack Palinka fill the nostrils and exhilarate to a pleasant intoxication. The rich array of flavors are not only delectable, they are a memorable eau-de-vie. It is 45% alcohol with a price tag of $45.

“It is quite popular to enjoy palinka as a cocktail by mixing it with club soda,” Darina was quick to add.

“For me, the appropriate way to truly enjoy palinka is at room temperature and sipping it slowly.” I said in a final and matter of fact tone.

“Don’t get too comfortable with your drink, I have a surprise for you,” Darina’s face brightened into a smile. “You’ll love the local wines and cheeses served at the next stop, and you will be fascinated by the tales of local lore.”

“But that my friends is another story …”

Legendary Vodka Dynasty

A thin cover of snow veiled the west Ukraine city of Lviv. Now that winter slowly gave way to spring, I once again found myself on the road.

A scant forty miles from the Polish border, this part of Ukraine has a long history of being conquered by other nations. Dating back to antiquity, various Slavic tribes ruled these lands for centuries. Since the Middle Ages, the realm was known as the Kingdom of Galicia. In 1772 the dominion was annexed by the House of Habsburg, where it remained under the control of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918. After WWl, Galicia was absorbed by the Republic of Poland, and remained under Polish control until the end of WWll.

Since the beginning of the 20th century, Lviv was best known to the outside world as the home of the famous Baczewski vodka family. The celebrated spirits of this heralded domain found favor with the kings and emperors of Europe, and with the fashionable society of the day.

The first distillery dates back to 1782 and was founded in the Lviv suburb of Wybranowka. Even today, the distillery is recognized  as the oldest Polish plant of its kind.

Tonight I am meeting my friend and fellow sommelier, Darina Sienkiewicz. Darina was born in Lviv and knows its history. She is half-Polish, half-Ukrainian, and all about vodka.

The evening’s festivities began with a tasting at the immensely popular Kryjivka Cafe. This renown theme restaurant, whose name means “bunker” in Ukrainian, is guarded by costumed sentries from the period of 1943-1949.  It was during this era that the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) waged a guerilla war against Nazis, Poles, and the Soviet Union.

With a sound knock on the cafe’s wooden door, I was greeted through a peep hole, by a uniformed sentry.

“Slava Ukraini, Glory to Ukraine,” he barked.

“Heroyam slava, Glory to its heroes,” I bellowed.

This was my ticket to be allowed entry and passage beyond the guard. The inside decor  of Kryjivka is an intriguing and genial bunker. Adorned with grenades, rifles, and other antique weaponry, the cafe is a testament to the harsh realities of war.

“The cafe is dedicated to the memory of our heroes,” Darina greeted me tenderly with a kiss on each cheek. “We have a saying that to not visit Kryjivka, is not to have visited Lviv.”

We made our way to our table which had been filled with n assortment of zakuska, Ukrainian finger foods to compliment our vodka. The theme was along peasant lines, consisting of an assortment of goat and sheep cheeses, sausages, a cold mutton platter, and of course, black bread.

What is our first selection? I queried.

“You were among the first to take Perlova vodka to the States so I thought this the appropriate vodka for the evening,” Darina’s tone was one of enthusiasm.

Perlova, aptly named Lvivska in Ukraine, is acclaimed by many as the country’s best vodka. Point in fact, the company is the most titled of all Ukrainian distilleries. Perlova, translates as “pearl barley,” and the company boasts the distilling of only the finest barley/wheat mash. These uniquely crafted spirits are an attempt to closely reproduce the great recipes of a bygone era … In honor of the Baczewski family, and the original opening of the distillery, Lvivska 1782 was recently released to an eagerly awaiting public. This vodka is filled with an interesting array of herbal aromas and citrus. It is dryish in character with medium body, and is 40% alcohol. Lvivska 1782 is an exceptional buy at $30.

“Unsurpassed smoothness and a great choice for casual sipping,” Darina displayed her satisfaction. “Lvivska exemplifies its rich Ukrainian heritage.”

“I concur. This is a very smooth vodka. It is soft on the palate, and flavorful,” I paused to collect my thoughts. “I also like the clean finish and the subtle heat that warms the cockles of my heart.”

Lvivska 1782 is marketed under the traditional name, “horilka,” the Ukrainian word for vodka. Recently Poland filed with the European Union to trademark the name “vodka” for only those spirits distilled from potatoes. Needless to say, this has ruffled a few feathers in vodka community. Nemiroff, one of Ukraine’s major vodka producers, considers their vodkas as liqueurs, and are now being marketed as such. In Poland, Gvori, one of the country’s most popular labels, has already begun to brand itself as a “gorzalka,” the traditional Polish name for vodka.

Our next selection, Golden Lion, is also from Perlova. Prince Danilo Galician made the name of his son, Lev, eternal with the founding of the city of Lviv. A great golden lion marked the city’s coat of arms and was posted at each of Lviv’s gates. This elegant vodka was created  in honor of this glorious city. Another excellent sipping vodka that has been crafted in the traditional manner to quell the thirst of the most discerning palates. There is a delicate aroma of mint to this medium bodied vodka. It is mild and refreshing. The finish is pleasant with a soft tingling sensation. It is 40% alcohol and a rare find at only $25.

“I think Golden Lion is completely representative of the traditional vodkas that have come out of this area,” Darina proudly boasted. “I believe that the light fragrance will also be to the liking of many women.”

“Once again I am impressed by the soft elegance of the vodkas of the region,” I paused in reflection. “I am also impressed by the melding of the Polish and Ukrainian styles that have produced a vodka that is solely unique to this region, and transcends time.”

Our final selection far supersedes the others in terms of extravagance. Polubotka has produced a luxury horilka that contains flakes of gold within the bottle. Zoloto Polubotka is slightly reminiscent Switzerland’s Goldschlager Schnapps. So why the gold flakes? No one really knows. There is a myth that imbibers believe the flakes make small cuts as they are ingested, resulting in a quicker absorption of alcohol. This is absurd. The particles are  gold leaf, and there are no edges to cause any cuts whatsoever, to one’s esophagus. Another tale is that the gold flakes are actually cinnamon, which in part, create the subtle aromas of various spices. Then there is the legend that the flakes are the remains from the lost Cossack treasure of Pavlo Polubotok. The flakes are 23-carat gold and almost insensible while tasting. In short, the Cossacks believed it was invaluable as a colloid solution and regenerated vitality. Zoloto Polubotka is indicative of a time when luxury and opulence knew no bounds. It is 40% alcohol with a price tag of $45.

“I actually like the subdued spiciness if Zoloto Polubotka,” Darina’s eyes crinkled softly. “I am still not quite sure as to the point of the gold flakes.”

We both erupted into laughter.

“Budimo,” I toasted her.

“Grisha, are you aware of the Western Ukraine custom of drinking a minimum of three shots per bottle?” Darina queried.

The festivities went on throughout the night. Another Ukrainian custom states that once a bottle of horilka is opened, it must be finished in entirety. There were also endless dishes of zakuska as we quaffed down our three bottles of horilka.

“Do you think we will make the morning train to Bukovina?” Darina’s tone and manner clearly indicated that she was tipsy.

The one time Duchy of Bukovina I reflected fondly. “But that my friends is another story …”

Saperavi the Amazing Red Grape, Part 2

Last week you were introduced to Georgia’s primary red grape, Saperavi. We then explored the Mukuzani appellation and some of its premium wines. Today we will explore The Republic of Georgia’s renown Kakheti wine region.

From the end of the 8th century, Kakheti reigned as an independent principality. However, by the 11th century, it was absorbed for a short time by the Kingdom of Georgia. Once again, after gaining their independence, the tiny principality thrived. Unfortunately, by the early 1600s, Kakheti was conquered by the Persian ruler Shah Abbas. Eventually, the Persians were ousted by a successful peasant revolt. Power to the people! Sorry, I could not resist. Then in 1801, most of Georgia came under the domination of Russia’s yoke. Since 1991, Georgia has once again found the path of independence through rule by a republic.

What is it about this old ancient land that is so prized by foreign invaders? In one word, wine. Kakheti is Georgia’s most prolific wine producing region. In Eastern Europe, Kakheti carries all the prestige as does Bordeaux, Tuscany, or Napa Valley.

The climate of Kakheti is also similar to that of Southern France. As for the soil, it is sandy with a strong reddish tint due to the high iron content. This gives the wine an intense color and strong earthy flavors. The wide fertile valley presses up against the Caucasus mountains. Known almost exclusively for its vineyards, we in the wine industry are quick to joke that Kakheti is a very large vineyard shielded by mountains. In Georgian mythology there is tale that when the gods descended from the heavens to parcel out the lands of the world, all peoples, save the Georgians, showed up to stake their claim. When the gods angrily questioned the Georgian people about their absence, a winemaker served the gods some of the wines he and others had so painstakingly been making. The gods were so impressed that they gave the Georgian people Kakheti, the land that the gods of the heavens had reserved for themselves. Today, this tiny country boasts over 175,000 acres of vineyards.

For our first selection, I picked a 2010 Chateau Mukhrani Saperavi. This legendary winery was founded in 1878 by the Prince of Mukhrani, heir of the Royal Family of Georgia. Today the winery is owned by Marussia Beverages and Georgian shareholders. The company not only produces premium quality wines, the Chacha grape vodka is renown throughout the world. In 2003 the castle, grounds, and winery underwent a complete renovation bringing the entire operation up to world class standards. In the glass the 2010 shows an opulent ruby red. On the nose, the bouquet permeates aromas of black mulberry, blackberry, and cherry. The palate is well balanced and expressive. The tannins are velvety with rich fruit, followed by echoes of soft oak. The finish is bountiful with good length. This style of Saperavi would pair best with red meat, game, and mature cheeses. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a bottle price of $25.

Our next selection, 2007 Badagoni Kakhetian Noble Red. The Badagoni Company first opened its doors back in 2002. Their mission was to establish a state of the art winery, yet specializing in traditional styles of wines from indigenous varietals. Throughout the Caucasus region, Badagoni is acclaimed as one of Georgia’s finest producers of premium wines. Over recent years, Badagoni’s reputation has begun to spread to the West. The Kakhetian Noble is representative of the best wines from the region. This special wine is made in conjunction with renown Italian enologist, Donato Laneti. In the glass, the 2007 Kakhetian Noble is a deep ruby in color. The nose is deep and fragrant. Dominated by aromas of cherry and prune, hints of spice and herb come through. On the palate, the wine is full bodied with multiple layers that only pleasure the palate. This is an elegant wine with good structure that is dominated by flavors of black currant followed by black cherry and just a whisper of oak. The finish is very smooth and long, with subtle, yet pleasing, fruit accents. This is a wine that is at its best when accompanying grilled meat or fowl. The alcohol content is 13% with a bottle price of $35.

Our next selection, 2006 Orovela Saperavi is the brainchild of Giorgi Sulkanishvili who began Orovela in 2001. The winery has all the advantages of modern technology combined with ancient traditions, not to mention that the vineyard is set in one of the most picturesque areas in Kakheti. This style of Saperavi, in that it is more fruit forward, is perhaps the most popular with Western palates. In the glass, the wine is an opulent ruby that shimmers in the light. The nose is dominated by familiar vanilla aromas due to 12 months of aging in both French and American oak. There are also pleasant spice and herbal accents, concluding with just a whisper of earthiness. On the palate, the 2006 is a very well structured wine with velvety tannins. It is a luscious mouth filling wine that is also rich in black mulberry, blackberry, and cherry fruits. The finish is clean and fresh. Winemaker Lado Uzunashvili definitely knows his target market. The 2006 will only get better with age so be sure to pick up a few bottles. I would favor serving this Saperavi with grilled meats. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a bottle price of $25.

Our last selection 2009 Khareba Premium Gold Saperavi, is from one of Georgia’s most prolific producers of both indigenous and international wines. Currently, Khareba is exporting 30 different kinds of wine. The winery is best known for the quality of their wines and their combining of Georgia’s unique viticultural heritage along with the use of modern technology. The 2009 Premium Gold clearly exemplifies Khareba’s commitment to winemaking. Kharemba has ensured that this wine has all the allure and versatility expected of the Saperavi grape. In the glass, the wine is a deep maroon in color. The nose is initially intense with aromas of black fruit, eventually leading to pleasing hints of blueberry and enhanced by spices. The 2009 also displays some light aromas of vanilla as the wine has spent a short period in American oak. On the palate, the wine is intense, yet clean. Blackberry and black cherry flavors dominate, with a smattering of blueberry and pomegranate, ending with soft spices. This easy drinking wine is delicious, with a finish that is moderate and pleasant, and accented by berries. I would serve this delightful gem of a wine with hamburgers or pizza. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a bottle price of $30.

Hamburgers or pizza for lunch, that is the question. I know which wine to select … “But that my friends is another story … “

Saperavi the Amazing Red Grape, Part 1

For 3,000 years the classic quest tale of Jason and the Golden Fleece has captivated the imaginations of readers. No one knows for sure where the earliest poets set the adventure, however by 700 BCE the poet Eunelos set the tale in the Kingdom of Aia. This area of the Black Sea was believed by the ancients to be at the eastern edge of the world. The most famous version of the tale was penned by Apollonius of Rhodes, who set the Golden Fleece in the Kingdom of Colchis, which today lies on the Black Sea coast of the Republic of Georgia.

This classic tale of high adventure is among my favorite books, and in part, what lead me to the “Cradle of Wine.” Archeological evidence has established that the peoples of the Caucasus region have been producing wine for more than 8,000 years.

Today I am excited to share with you Georgia’s premier varietal, Saperavi. When translated from the Georgian language, the name Saperavi means, “Paint dye.” The name is derived from the grape’s inky purple coloring. Grown primarily in the Kakheti region, Georgia’s most important grape is known for its hardiness, ability to thrive in both extremely cold weather and high altitudes. Late ripening, Saperavi typically produces wines of 10.5%-12.5% in alcohol content. Saperavi wines are long lived and able to produce significant examples of 50+ years.

Saperavi is also a very versatile wine that pairs nicely with many styles of food. Starting with cheeses, Saperavi works with hard cheeses like Asiago, Beaufort, Cantal, Iberico, Manchego, Mizithra, and Pecorino Romano, just to name a few. Saperavi, due to its strong flavor and texture, is the perfect accompaniment with game dishes. Saperavi has also found favor when served with grilled meats, roast pork, lamb, and a bevy of hearty stews. This robust wine is a definite must for meat lovers. A line from a Georgian song comes to mind. “Mtsvadsa mas mshveniersa da dadgromilsa momtansa amisasa ats vadidebdet,” Let us now praise this beautiful and roasted meat as well as the one who brought it to us.

Saperavi is a a very special wine, and in many ways, it is the lifeblood of the Georgian wine industry. It is also used a base for many Georgian blends for both indigenous and international grape varietals. My favorite style of Saperavi is grown in the Mukuzani Appellation of the Kakheti region. What is it that makes Mukuzani so special?

One distinction with Mukuzani from other dry wines made from Saperavi, comes in the aging process. Mukuzani is aged longer, typically a minimum of 3 years in oak casks. This style of winemaking has been prevalent in Georgia since 1888. Mukuzani is also pleasing to the eye with its deep red coloring. The nose is filled with a soft smoky scent of both berry fruit and oak. On the palate, Mukuzani is complex and filled with fruit flavors that are lightly accented by oak. For many, Mukuzani is considered the creme de la creme of the Georgian red wines made from Saperavi. Let’s take a look at a few.

Up first, I selected a 2009 Santeli Mukuzani. The Santeli Winery is relatively new to the Georgian wine industry, having only opened their doors in 1998. Alexandre Jorjdze, Santeli’s founder, is descended from a noble line of Georgian princes. Rest assured that though the wines are being produced from young vines, they exude a quality that is expected of premium wines and a gentleman bearing the Jorjdze name. Not only are the wines high quality, Santeli also employs two renown Georgian winemakers, David Maisuradze and Revaz Lashkhi. In the glass, the 2009 is a delightful pomegranate in color. On the nose, there are intense aromas of blackberry, cherry, prunes, and spices that carry on to the flavor profile. The palate is full-bodied and well-balanced, with smooth elegant tannins that combine fresh acidity. The finish is long and complex. For my palate, this delightful wine would pair best with grilled pork. The alcohol content is 13% with a bottle price of $20.

Up next, a 2005 Marani Mukuzani Reserve. Marani Winery is owned by the Georgian company, Telavi Wine Cellar. The company has been producing quality wines since 1915. Though Marani produces many styles of wine, they are best known for their fine expressions of Saperavi. In the glass, the 2005 Reserve is deep, dark, and alluring. The nose is an expression of floral notes accented by black cherry, blackberry, prunes. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine is silky, with generous amounts of black cherry, cherry, and prunes that is followed up by welcome hints of cinnamon and white pepper. The slight tannin also adds to wine’s structure. Though I do not smoke, I would recommend this Reserve Mukuzani with a good cigar. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a bottle price of $25.

Our next selection is a 2007 Eniseli Mukuzani. The company was first established in 1950 and is renown for its world class brandies. Over the years, the winery has produced more than its share of high quality and award winning wines. In the glass, the 2007 is a very dark red. The nose is a delightfully scented with cherry, blackberry, and spices. On the palate, the wine is well-structured, full-bodied, and with a healthy dose of tannins. What adds to the complexity of the 2007 is its aging. First the wine spends 12 months in French Oak for flavor, and then aged an additional 24 months in old oak barrels. The finished wine is rich in flavors of plum and blackberry, with accents of oak rounding out its profile. The finish is complex and memorable. The 2007 is the perfect accompaniment for a thick juicy steak. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a bottle price of $25.

For our final selection, I picked a 2012 Tbilvino Mukuzani Special Reserve. The company was first established in 1962. Since the 1990s, Tbilvino has been headed by the Margvelashvi brothers. Zura who once worked for California’s Wente Winery, is the chief winemaker, while Giorgi runs the business. Together the brothers have managed to produce quality wines by combining new world technology without losing any of Georgia’s thousands of years of viticultural history. The 2012 Special Reserve is indeed just that. Tbilvino has managed to produce a unique wine that is uniquely flavored. In the glass, the wine is inky purple in color. The nose is scented with aromas of black autumn berries punctuated lightly with oak, and just a caress of smoke. The wine has been aged for 10-12 months new French oak barrels, and then an additional aging of 24 months in old oak barrels. This method creates a full-bodied and complex wine. Ripe fruit flavors of blackberry and black currant dominate followed by a pleasing light smokiness. The finish lingers long and is laced with hints of both chocolate and mocha. The Special Reserve is a suitable wine for cellar aging so make sure you pick up a couple of extra bottles. The wine pairs ideally with “Bozashi,” a spicy Georgian tomato soup with either mutton or lamb. Spicy meats also pair nicely as do different pates. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a bottle price of $30.

In closing, I’ll leave you with this: Quickly gaining in international popularity, Saperavi is now also being grown in Crimea, New York, and Australia. My friend from Sydney, Mattie McGill, is also quick to remind me that Saperavi pairs extremely well with kangaroo meat … “But that my friends is a different story … “

Favorite Wines and Spirits of the Presidents

In November of 2012, George Washington’s fabled Mt. Vernon Distillery was reopened. Today a meticulous recipe of the popular 1799 blend by our first president is taking the rye whiskey market by storm. I have it on good authority that the president’s whiskey was not only the rage of the day, it made Mr. Washington a very wealthy man. The Mt. Vernon Distillery was renown as the largest distillery in the fledgling republic. I can personally attest to the fact that it is an exceptional whiskey. Comprised of 60% rye, 35% corn, and 5% malted barley. It is aged 2 years, and with an alcohol content of 43%, and well-worth the $95 price tag. A special batch will soon be released, and will retail for $185 a bottle. I have already placed my order.

What other spirits did our country’s father imbibe? Madeira was the typical way he ended his day. Madeira is a fortified wine with an added distilled beverage, usually brandy. The final product has typically an alcohol content of 20%. The most desirable styles of fortified wines hail from the Madeira Islands, Portugal, and Spain.

It seems our country’s father also had a sweet tooth. In May of 1787, while Thomas Jefferson was in France, he purchased 30 cases of Chateau d’Yquem Sauterne for the general, and 10 cases for himself.

There is also documented evidence that along with Madeira being the wine of choice for Benjamin Franklin, John Hancock, Alexander Hamilton, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, and John Marshall, our founding fathers christened the USS Constitution with a bottle of Madeira. John Adams was also quite the beer drinker. He is purported to have started his day with a tankard. Both James Madison and James Monroe preferred ale.

Thomas Jefferson definitely knew his way around a vineyard. He owned a winery and hoped that his Sangiovese grapes would flourish in Monticello. Unfortunately, both of his Virginia vineyards failed. He also had a taste for French wines and believed Chateau d’Yquem’s Sauterne, to be the best representative of the sweet dessert wine. Mr. Jefferson’s expertise also extended to wines from Italy, Spain, and Portugal. America’s aficionado was also responsible for stocking the wine cellrs of the first 5 presidents.

Here are some other fun facts about spirits in the early beginnings of our country. Before Paul Revere departed on his now famous, “Midnight Ride,” he warmed up with 2 tankards of rum. Incidentally, rum was New Englad’s longest thriving business. At the signing of the of the Declaration of Independence, the founders had on hand quite a selection of wines. It has been reported there were 50 bottles of Madeira, 60 bottles of Claret, and 22 bottles of Port. The Star Spangled Banner was originally played to the tune of a drinking song. My favorite, Bourbon whiskey, is an American creation. By an Act of Congress, it is the official spirit of the United States of America.

Let’s make a quick rundown on other presidents and their alcohol of choice. Andrew Jackson was known to drink his whiskey straight. At state functions, the Jackson’s served “Daniel Webster’s Punch,” the jungle juice of the day. Martin Van Buren drank so much whiskey, his friends nicknamed him “Blue Whiskey Van.” James Buchanan had an educated palate. He preferred Bordeaux, Champagne, and Cognac. When neither was available, he settled for whiskey. Abraham Lincoln did not drink, but he was invested in the spirits industry. My small batch bourbon of choice Knob Creek, other than sharing the name of our 16th president’s birthplace, the two have no other connection. Contrary to popular belief, Andrew Johnson was not an alcoholic. In fact he almost never had a drink. Unfortunately, on the day of his inauguration, he imbibed with close friends. Since he did not know how to hold his liquor, he got drunk after a few drinks. Pity his father did not teach him a general lesson of the day. “Teach a boy how to sit a saddle, and teach him how to hold a drink.” Ulysses S. Grant, on the other hand, was known for his penchant for Old Crow Whiskey and cigars. Known to have smoked up to 20 cigars a day, he died of throat cancer.

Moving right along, I found that James Garfield was a whikey drinker and his successor, Chester A. Arthur, habitually enjoyed a bottle of Claret with his dinner. Grover Cleveland was big on beer. He is reputed to have enjoyed several frothy ones throughout the day. Perhaps there’s more behind the story of how he once got stuck in the bath tub. Both Theodore Roosevelt and William Howard Taft were fond of cocktails. It was once reported that TR said he was “bully for a Marconi Cocktail, gin of course.” President Taft liked orange juice. He regularly started his day with Bronx Cocktail.

Herbert Hoover loved his martinis, stirred, not shaken. Shaking would obviously bruise the gin, and on occasion garnish his drink with an olive. The “Stanford Man” viewed a martini as the only suitable cocktail for America’s elite. Not only did Franklin Delano Roosevelt repeal Prohibition, FDR was quite the drinking man. He particularly enjoyed scotch and brandy. As was the custom of his day, he was also fond of cocktails. His favorite,  a Haitian Libation. Supposedly when FDR, Churchill, and Stalin met in Yalta, Ukraine, Stalin brought gifts of Georgian Brandy. Being no less the gentleman, FDR mixed up a pitcher of martinis. When Stalin was asked if he enjoyed the drink, the Soviet leader replied, “It was OK, but a bit cold on my stomach.”

Dwight Eisenhower preferred to drink scotch. Johnny Walker Black was his preference. His supporters wore, “I like Ike,” buttons. I wonder if in the privacy of the White House, he wore a button touting his favorite brand of Scotch whiskey. John F. Kennedy typically enjoyed a martini and a Cuban cigar at the end of the day. He smoked a brand known as Demi Tasse. In Cuba and the rest of the world, these cigars were marketed under the name, Petit Upmann. Mrs. Kennedy, on the other hand, adored a good daiquiri. During official state functions, the favored wine of Camelot, was of course, French Champagne. In an ironic twist, Nikita Khrushchev claimed that the martini was Ameica’s most lethal weapon. Lyndon Johnson enjoyed his scotch, and Cutty Sark was his brand of choice. LBJ claimed that a dash of soda water was an excellent addition to open up the whiskey’s flavor. Richard Nixon often relaxed by playing poker and enjoying a rum and Coke. “Tricky Dick,” actually earned his way through college with his winnings from the card table. At state functions, the Nixon White House is purported to have served California wines to his guests, while he secretly enjoyed a Bordeaux wine. However, on his historic trip to the People’s Republic of China, Mr. Nixon toasted his hosts with a Schramsburg Blanc de Blanc.

Let’s press on. Gerald Ford was a gin and tonic man, and also had a penchant for the martini. He once stated that the “Three martini lunch was the epitome of American efficiency.” Ronald Reagan prefered cocktails, he was known to have satisfied his sweet tooth with more than just jelly beans. His drink of choice, an “Orange Blossom.” Being a proud Californian, during White House official functions the sparkling wine of choice was from Napa Valley. George H. W. Bush continued the Reagan tradition of serving California wines in the White House. His palate seemed to favor our dry reds.

President Clinton seems to be a risk taker in more ways than one. His favorite cocktail is a “Snake Bite” made with Yukon Jack whiskey. Being quite the contemporary, Bill also enjoys tequila. Since the former president likes to play his sax, I wonder if he ever invited rockers, Van Halen, over for a jam session and to imbibe on Sammy Hagar’s renown tequila. We are all aware George Bush’s struggles with substance abuse. By his own account, his days at Yale University were either in a drunken stupor or a smoke filled haze. I wonder what was his marijuana of choice? Considering he speaks Spanish fluently, I’d hazard to guess his preference was “Acapulco Gold.” As for Barack Obama, not only does our president try to find common ground with everyone, his drinking habits seem to portray the same characteristics. The president especially likes tequila, preferably when mixed as a Margarita. He also enjoys martinis, sparkling wine, and beer.

If you know the drink preference of any of the presidents that I did not include, please feel free to fill in the gaps. It is fascinating to learn how drinking habits and customs have changed over the decades.

With that in mind, I wonder what history’s conquerors preferred in the way of libation? “But that my friends, is a different story … “