German Red Wines?

Red wines from Germany? Isn’t it too cool there, even for Pinot Noir? Not at all. In fact German red wines and not only thriving, they are becoming very popular throughout the world. Back in the 1980’s, red grapes accounted for only 12 per cent of Germany’s vineyards. Today, that number exceeds 36 per cent. The most notable of Germany’s red wines include, Trollinger, Blaufrankicsh, and Pinot Noir.

Today I am joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Liesel Braun. We are exploring the world of German red wines. Though beer is Germany’s national beverage, wine has definitely made its mark on the country’s social structure. Reds are not only gaining with the Germans, but the international market as well.

In Stuttgart, visit any wine bar or biergarten and you’ll be surprised to see Germans quaffing down bottles of a local wine known as Trollinger (traw-ling-ger). This grape grows primarily in the Wurttemberg region and the Swabians love it. What is most interesting about the appearance of Trollinger, it looks more like cherry kool-aid rather than a rare and unique wine. In Italy this grape is known as Schiava and in Austria, Vernatsch. However, neither country shares Germany’s enthusiasm for the grape. Truth be known, Wurttembergers drink it like water. It has also been documented to have been a particular favorite of Martin Luther.

Trollinger first came to Germany during Roman times. It is believed that its name is derived from “Tirol-linger” because it originated in Tirol, Italy. It is a late harvest wine and does not ripen until October. Served cold, Trollinger resembles a strong rose. It is a fresh and fruity wine with an odd, almost medicinal finish.

Our first selection was a Wuerttemberger Trollinger 2007. On the eye, it is a lovely dark rose color. The bouquet is fragrant with a light fruitiness. On the palate it is a light and lively wine with plenty acidity, it was a bit sweeter and with more residual sugar than I had expected. I found the finish on our Wuerttemberger Trollinger on the odd side and somewhat lacking. The alcohol content was 12.5% and a price tag of $22.

“Though this wine is well made, it is just not my palate,” Liesel paused to collect her thoughts. “As for pairing this wine, I would serve it with most anything that goes along  with a rose.”

“Every festival I have attended in the Stuttgart region, where beer is the order of the day, Trollinger is seemingly being enjoyed by many,” My tone was one of amusement.

“I must admit that I do not share their enthusiasm,” Liesel shook her head in disdain. “Trollinger is not very tasty, and its popularity bewilders me. In fact, I think it should be blended. I am sure that the result would be a much better wine.”

Blauer Limberger, also known as Blaufrankisch or Lemberger, thrives along the lower stretches of the Danube River. Typically the wines are extremely dark in color. Being a late-ripening variety, it is rich in tannin with a spicy pronounced character. On the nose there are aromas of dark ripe cherries and dark berries. On the palate, it is often silky with spice flavors, boysenberry, and blackberry. Young wines are deeply fruity and become more velvety and complex with age. The finish is long and fruit accented. Lemberger wine can best be categorized as between pinot noir and syrah. Germans are quick to repute that Lemberger was quite popular with both Napoleon Bonaparte and Otto von Bismarck.

Our next selection was a Grafen Neipperg 2008 Lemberger. This is a ruby red wine. It is charming in character, showing bright red fruit aromas of cherry and blackberries. On the palate, there is a good concentration of red berry fruit and well-balanced tannins. The finish proved to be long and fruity. The alcohol content is 13% and a price tag of $23. On a historical note, the counts of Neipperg have cultivated vines for over 700 years in the wine-growing region of Wurttemberg. Hereditary count, Karl Eugen, has been responsible for the wine estate since 1984.

“I like this wine very much,” Liesel’s eyes crinkled softly as she began to smile. “I am also positive that with a bit of aging, Lemberger meets with your palate.”

“It does indeed. I very much like our Grafen Neipperg,” I gave her a quick wink. Perhaps we should call on the count and share our praise.”

“Prost!” We both erupted euphorically.

“This is definitely a food wine. I would serve it with blue or goat cheese. Pasta and red sauces would also go nicely. “Liesel, with what foods would you pair this Lemberger?” I queried.

“Roasted lamb or wild game,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “I think a nice roasted hare would go over nicely.”

Our next wine comes as a bit of a surprise. In Germany, Spatburgunder is to red wine, what Riesling is to white wine, the creme de la creme. This grape varietal is sensitive to climate and soil. It also needs warmth to thrive and ripens late. Sound familiar? If you recognized that Spatburgunder is the German equivalent to Pinot Noir, welcome to the head of the class.

Spatburgunder was brought to Germany from Burgundy as early as the 4th century. However, Spatburgunder differs from Pinot Noir. The intended result of Pinot Noir is to produce an elegant, velvety wine, with a distinctive bouquet of bitter almonds or blackberries. German Spratburgunder, in contrast, is lighter in color, body, and tannic acidity than its counterparts from warmer climates. Yet these wines have lost none of the character and appeal that is indicative of Pinot Noir. What German winemakers have essentially done is to take their understanding of cool climate viticulture, and produce some wines that rival even the most long established producers of Pinot Noir.

Our last selection was a Karl H. Johner Pinot Noir Enselberg 2008. On the eye, it is a pale cherry red color. The nose is filled with a concentration of cherry fruit, and notes of herbs and spices. Overall the bouquet is fragrant, and perfumed. On the palate, our Johner Pinot Noir is medium-bodied, taut, with black cherry undertones.  There is also a piquant and spicy edge. Though “Old World” in style, there is just enough sweet fruit to satisfy one’s palate. The finish is silky, fluent, and pure.The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $35.

“I especially like the soft texture to this Pinot Noir,” Liesel eagerly shared her delight. “I would pair it with lighter style roasted game birds.”

“I found the bouquet a bit too perfumed,” I flashed Liesel a reassuring smile. “Overall, I was quite impressed and particularly liked the pepperiness of German style Pinot Noir.”

“Now our readers know that there is certainly more to German red wines other than Dornfelder,” Liesel chuckled softly.

“But that my friends is another story …”

Sparkling Wines at Their Best

Anyone who has been reading my weekly column knows that I love and exalt sparkling wine. I have gone on record, and jokingly stated that Champagne is what makes life bearable. I am also fond of saying that when the weather is too cold, the only thing to drink is Champagne.

So here we are on another chilly Kyiv day of 18 degrees Fahrenheit. The city is knee deep in beautiful drifts of white snow. Peering out my balcony window, I am enthralled by the charm of icicles cascading in luxuriantly from the ledge above.

I am joined by long time friend, and fellow sommelier, Elena Boiko. However, today the bubbly we will be tasting is not from France. It is not made in the French style, nor does it use any of the traditional grape varietals found in sparkling wine. If it is not made with some combination of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, how then can it be a credible sparkling wine?

Bagrationi wines hail from the Republic of Georgia, the birthplace of wine, some 8,000 years ago. The Bagrationi Winery was formally established in 1937. However, its! roots go much deeper. Ivane Bagrationi Mukhraneli was descended from an ancient royal family. The family first started making their legendary sparkling wines in the 1800s. In 1882, Bagrationi wines gained repute throughout Europe by winning the International Grand Prix held that year in Saint-Petersburg, Russia. Hence, the company’s branding, Bagrationi 1882.

So when Nicholas Krivoruchko of the Pacific Wine Marketing Group first contacted Chris Terrell and I, we were quick to market the Bagrationi brand. In fact, within a very short time, these notable sparkling wines had gained an immense and loyal following.

“Grisha, I am almost ashamed to admit that before meeting you,” Elena paused lightly. My wine knowledge focused mainly around French varietals.”

“This is quite the norm,” I smiled reassuringly. “Many sommeliers focus on French, Italian, and California varietals. However, there are those who are also particularly fond of their indigenous wines. I was fortunate that through my travels, I met such connoisseurs and they opened me up to an entirely new world of wine.”

Sparkling wines can be paired with a great many foods. Two of the most popular have long been strawberries and caviar. I have found that bubbly also pairs nicely with other fruits such as, apricots, apples, pears, blueberries, and melons. When pairing fruits, it is important to make selections that are not overly sweet, messy, and their flavor does not overpower the wine. In terms of food, cheese, pasta, and seafood are all excellent pairings.

“What is our first selection?” Elena openly displayed her anticipation.

“I selected Bagrationi’s Reserve Brut,” my eyes crinkled softly. “It is not a vintage wine, but one of my favorites.

“Gaumarjos,” she toasted me as I filled our glasses.

The Reserve Brut is made from three grape varietals, Chinebuli, Mtsvane, and Tsitska. The vineyards are located in the regions of Imereti, Kakheti and Kartli. This is a traditional Georgian style sparkling wine. On the eye, our Reserve Brut is a pale straw in color. The nose is light and floral. There is an elegance to this wine that is full of peach and apricot aromas. On the palate, there is a marked richness, creamy mouth-feel and exceptional balance along with a refreshing fruitiness. The finish is crisp and dry. It is also memorable and with persistent flavors.

“I agree. I especially liked the the pear flavors,” Elena flashed me an even grin. “I also like the pinpoint bubbles and the freshness of this wine.”

“An exceptional value at $25 for a methode champenoise wine.”

Our next selection from Bagrationi was the Royal Cuvee 2007. This vintage wine is produced solely from Chinebuli grapes from the Kartli region. Our 2007 is an elegant and superior quality wine. It is light gold in color, with delicate bouquet is of fresh flowers and lively citrus fruits. On the palate, the wine is fruity with notes of pear, apple, and a hint of almond. The finish is crisp and long, and persistently rich.

“It seems that today I am fixated on bubbles,” Elena laughed out loudly. “The Chinebuli grapes produce fine, threadlike bubbles. I also like the acidity of the Royal Cuvee.”

“Keep in mind mind that Chinebuli grapes are unique to Georgia. They are favored for their fleshy and juicy pulp,” I paused for effect. “Georgian winemakers prefer the use of these grapes for their premium wines. Overall, an exceptional wine at $40.

“I have something special for you,” I called for Elena’s attention.

“Surprise me,” she smiled giddily.

“I know of your fondness for rose style sparkling wine,” I paused for effect. “Bagrationi now has now added a delightful rouge to their array of sparkling wines.”

“Mmmm,” Elena displayed her excitement. “Stop talking and pour our wine.”

“Gaumarjos!”

Our Bagrationi Rouge is Saperavi based. Arguably the most popular grape varietal throughout the Caucuses, Saperavi is Georgia’s noble wine making fruit. It is a durable grape that is used in almost every facet of Georgian wine making. It is a thin-skinned grape whose pulp is juicy. The fruit is deep blue in color and cultivated only in select appellations of the Kakheti region. The result is a delectable wine which has become quite popular when served as an aperitif. There is a fruity aroma of berries followed by a rich mouth-feel with a soft and smooth finish.

Quite a treat at only $12 for this methode charmat wine.

Grisha, this is a delightful wine and I must admit that I am taken aback by the the price,” Elena paused lightly. “Definitely an exceptional buy.”

“Nothing about the bubbles?” I flashed a furtive smile.

“But of course,” Elena paused on the moment. “I liked the wine’s crisp acidity and refreshing bubbles.

“Gaumarjos.”

“Grisha, I also think that the Bagrationi Rouge would pair nicely with chocolates,” Elena playfully teased. “I hope you remember that on the upcoming Valentine holiday.”

“But that my friends is a different story … “