The Resurgence of Slovakian Wines

The Resurgence of Slovakian Wines
In the world of oenophiles and epicurists when the subject of Slovakian wines is brought up, immediately there is an almost convulsive gasp that permeates the room. Which is often followed by mutterings of, “typical Central European wines.”
Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Karolina Horvath. Together we hope to dispel some of the myths surrounding these lovely, yet almost forgotten wines.
In the past many sommeliers simply brushed off Slovakia as a country that produces only table wines. To begin with, today’s Slovak wines tend to be crisp and fresh are ready to drink now. The fairly cold climate is most conducive for whites and roses. Ever since 2001, which was a good year for Slovakian wines, the country is steadily making its resurgence felt throughout Europe.
Karolina has procured Bratislava’s renown Narodny Salon Vin for our tasting. This charming Rococo style palace houses the Slovak National Collection of Wines, which is approximately 8,000 bottles. The palace’s atmosphere is of late Baroque style architecture, which was popular throughout 18th century Europe, provides a more than an ample ambience.
Here’s a fun fact for wine enthusiasts who visit Bratislava. For a mere $20.00, there is a daily selection of 72 wines made available to taste. A friend once shared with me that in a 2 hour period, he sampled 54 wines. Frankly, I think he completely missed the point of enjoying wine, and I seriously doubt that he was able to walk out on his own accord.
Today we have 3 excellent Slovak wines to share with our readers. For our first selection Karolina decided on a 2012 Skovajsa Veltlinske Zelene.
“This is a very food friendly wine,” Karolina began. “Since it is a warm day, I picked a wine that I often enjoy with fruit.”
“Na zdravie,” I toasted her.
On the nose this style of Gruner Veltliner is very fresh and lightly scented. I found the whispers of spring and wild flowers to be quite inviting. On the palate, our 2012 is lightly fruity, with notes of spice coming through, followed by hints of white pepper. The finish is crisp and pleasant.
“Very nice,” I flashed Karolina a smile. “This wine can easily be paired with most foods. I can see why it is so popular in Slovakia.”
“Precisely,” Karolina flashed a quick grin. “ Gruner Veltliner is one of our most popular grapes.”
Keep in mind that “Gruner” means green. In this context the term refers to a wine that is young, fresh, and ready to drink now. The alcohol content of the Skovajsa Veltlinske Zelene is 13.5% and a bottle price of $10.00. To show this lovely wine at its best, I would recommend serving it chilled to about 53 degrees Fahrenheit.
“What is our next selection?” I asked in anticipation.
“I remember how much you enjoy a good Riesling,” Karolina paused for effect. “I am sure that you will find the 2011 Janousek Rizling Rynsky very much to your liking.”
On the nose there is the alluring array of spices that will immediately draw one to this wine. On the palate, the 2011 is filled with a generous amount of sweet fruit that is nicely balanced with lemon. The finish is floral and most memorable.
“Definitely my palate,” I did not hesitate in expressing my pleasure. “Where is this winery located?”
“Northeast of Bratislava,” she motioned with her head. “This region is renown for its Riesling.”
The 2011 Janousek Rizling Rynsky is a charming wine that shows best at 50 – 53 degrees Fahrenheit. The alcohol content is 13% and an exceptional buy at only $11.00 a bottle.
For our last selection, Karolina decided on the 2012 Juraj Zaprazny Pinot Gris. On the nose this wine is enticingly spicy.
“This is because Juznoslevensja region,”Karolina was quick to add.
“Juznoslevensja region?” I queried.
“This region is one of our few regions that is noted for its abundance of sunny and warm weather,” she showed her pride with fervor.
“Definitely a wine that is a sheer delight,” I nodded in approval.
On the palate, this style of Pinot Gris is lush, fruit filled, and laced with just the appropriate amount of ginger. I also picked up on just a whisper of arugula. It is a nicely balanced wine and just a sheer joy to drink. The finish is clean and refreshing. The 2012 Juraj Zaprazny Pinot Gris is at its best when chilled at 50 – 52 degrees Fahrenheit. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a bottle price of only $10.00.
“Karolina,” I flashed her wide beaming grin. “I am famished. Where shall we go for dinner?”
“I know that you will enjoy a favorite brew pub that I frequent,” she paused for effect. Bratislavsky Mestianky Pivovar is renown for its Eastern European cuisine, while focusing on both Slovak and Czech dishes.”
“Excellent,” I replied with anticipation.
“However,” she smiled demurely, “I suggest that we first take a stroll through our charming Sad Janka Kala Park as we enjoy the sunset.”
Offering Karolina my arm we set off for our stroll through the park. But that my friends is another story…