ARMAGNAC: FRANCE’S NOBLE BRANDY

When one considers France, what often comes to mind is exceptional wines, fine Champagne, and Cognac, the crème de la crème of brandy. Yet let’s not forget France’s other premier spirit, Armagnac.

Today I am in the southwest of France, in the Gascony region. This is the land between the Ardou and Garonne rivers which lay at the foothills of the Pyranees Mountains. I am also joined by long- time friend and fellow sommelier, Denise Roland. We are in the town of Labastide d’ Armagnac at the Café Barbotan. Our surroundings not only exude an elegance of a bygone era, this charming setting is also filled with the character that is typically Gascone. I can easily see why it is one of Denise’s favorites to enjoy drinks with friends.

Armagnac is the oldest brandy distilled in France. It is quite distinctive in character. Armagnac is typically made from a blend of grapes which include Colombard, Baco Blanc, Folle-Blanche, and Ugni Blanc.

The distillation of Armagnac is done with column stills rather than the pot stills used for Cognac. Since Armagnac is distilled only once, with an alcohol content of 52%, it is then aged in oak barrels. The final beverage is more fragrant and tasty spirit than Cognac. This is due to the extensive aging in oak barrels. This softens the taste, adds to the complexity of flavors, and deepens its dark brown color.

Historically, Armagnac came into prominence in the 14th century. Cardinal Vital Du Four, a French scholastic philosopher and former bishop of Albano, who claimed that Armagnac had therapeutic effects. He strongly believed it had 40 virtues and encouraged the widespread consumption of the beverage. In part, his efforts did spread the popularity of the spirit and between the 15th-17th centuries, Armagnac was widely traded by Dutch merchants throughout Europe.

Since Armagnac pairs best with desserts and fruits, Denise spared no expense to fill our table with an assortment of seasonal fruits.

“Are you ready for our first selection?” She queried.

Chateau de Pellehaut Reserve de Gaston is the premier cuvee of Domaine de Pellehaut. It has been meticulously blended from barrels of 20 year old Ugni Blanc and 10 year old Folle Blanche. Light in color, and with a fresh nose, wonderful grape, apple, and plum aromas thrill the senses. It is light on the palate with notes of creamy chocolate and berries. The finish is clean, crisp, and fruity. The alcohol content is 40% with a price tag of $80.

“This is a charming brandy. I know that it is perhaps on the light-side for your palate,” Denise cast me a furtive smile. “It’s just that I adore the fruitiness of this Armagnac.”

“A bit light,” I gave her a quick nod. “However I do like the nose. The aroma of fresh grapes, apples, and plums is quite inviting.”

Our next selection, Armagnac Castarede Vintage 1979 is dark amber in color. One immediately recognizes that this is a well-crafted spirit that has been scrupulously blended from Colombard grapes along with Folle Blanche, and Ugni Blanc. The nose is delicate, yet with aromatic hints of peach and prune. The mouth feel is extremely long with an abundance of fruit character and just a hint of spice. The finish is long and enjoyable. The alcohol content is 40% with a price tag of $95.

Bas-Armagnac Delord is by far the most unusual Armagnac that either Denise or I have tried in a very long time. On the eye it is deep, dark, and alluring. There is a sense of anticipation. The nose is quite rich and creamy. On the palate is where this Armagnac takes a turn. There is a distinct and almost whole meal quality on the tongue. We also picked up hints of tobacco and smoke. This is definitely one for a specific type of connoisseur; the person who enjoys a good cigar while drinking Armagnac. The alcohol content is 42% with a price tag of $100.

“I whole-heartedly agree,” her eyes crinkled softly as she gave me a subtle nod. “Perhaps if we were smokers, we’d have more of an appreciation for this style of Armagnac.”

“Overall, it is well-made and definitely aims to please its target audience.”

“Let’s move on,” Denise exhibited a tone of calm finality.

Our final selection, Bas-Armagnac Francis Darroz has been aged for 20 years. The grapes in this spirit come from over 30 estates in Gascony. On the eye it is dark with hues of gold shining through. The nose is aromatic and fills the nostrils with a multitude of savory scents. On the palate, it is evident that our Francis Darroz has been harmoniously blended to create a spirit that is delightfully smooth and evenly textured. It is an eau-de-vie which displays just the right amount of oak on the palate to round out the finish. It is 40% alcohol with a price tag of $105.

“Clearly one of my favorites,” Denise flashed me an even smile.”

“I especially like the care and aging that went in this Darroz. It is indeed an exceptional selection.”

“Gregory,” Denise called for my attention. “What do you say time a traditional Gascone meal?

“But that my friends is another story …”

CHATEAU CHEVAL BLANC 1947 PERHAPS THE GREATEST WINE EVER MADE

Recently my friends and I were at a wine and cheese party when the question arose, “what is the greatest wine ever made?” Though many wines were mentioned, only one prevailed like a Titan rising out of the mists in ancient legends. The 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc is the most celebrated wine of the 20th century and perhaps every other century preceding it.

The 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc is a wine produced in Saint-Emilion in France’s Bordeaux region. It is one of only four to receive the highest rank of Premier Grand Cru Classe. Over the decades every prominent wine reviewer has critiqued the 1947 Cheval Blanc. For many, it is the benchmark by which all Bordeaux should be measured. The most interesting fact is that 1947 was not at all a good year for Bordeaux. To begin with, the year was dominated by aberrant weather. By today’s standards, the wine was produced under primordial surroundings, after all, WW11 had only recently ended. The ’47 is also filled with a host of technical flaws that turned out delicious in spite of itself.

Chateau Cheval Blanc, French for “White Horse Castle,” had its early beginnings in 1832 when, Countess Felicte de Carle-Trajet of Chateau Figeac, sold 37 hectares (about 91 acres) to the Ducasse family. The purchase also included a narrow ridge that runs through Figeac and reaches Chateau Petrus, just over the border in Pomeral. However, the Ducasse family continued to produce wines under the Figeac label.

In 1838 the Ducasse family acquired more of the Countess’ vineyard, augmenting their earlier purchase to 41 hectares (about 101 acres). In 1852, Mlle Henriette Ducasse married Jean Laussac Fourcaud and the family officially began producing wines under the Chateau Cheval Blanc label. By 1862 and again in 1867, Chateau Cheval Blanc was taking international awards and proving itself a serious player on the international wine scene. This is primarily due to the vineyard’s considerable attributes. First, it borders Pomeral. Second, the Graves.

This is an important subregion of Bordeaux which is situated on the left bank of the Garonne River. This famed subregion is the only area within Bordeaux that has excelled in three primary wine types, reds, dry whites, and sweet wines. The Graves encompasses one-third of the vineyard. Lastly, The remaining one-third of Chateau Cheval Blanc’s vineyard is in Saint-Emillon. This is the key wine town in the Libournais district of Bordeaux. This appellation has thrived since the days of the Roman conquest. Today Saint-Emillon is home to not only Chateau Cheval Blanc, the list of renown wine producers includes Ausone, Angelus, Fideac and Pavie. An interesting fact to point out is that while Saint-Emillon is primarily merlot country, Cheval Blanc excels in Cabernet Franc. This has always made for some most distinctive wines.

Recently, fellow contributor Rusty Dale Sly and I had an interesting conversation on vintage wines. We agreed that oftentimes we found some real gems in what were considered off years. And why not. Many factors come into play when it comes to wine making. And putting it bluntly, we experts aren’t always correct in our assumptions. Such is the case with the 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc. Those who have experienced this wine have all agreed that it is like no other. So at $304,375 for an Imperial (six-litres, 8 bottles) is it the best wine ever made? Frankly, I can’t say. I have not yet been so fortunate to try the ’47. The closest I’ve come is the 1955 Cheval Blanc.

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1955. In the glass, our Bordeaux Blend showed deep and dark in color. We also allowed our wine to breathe for 10 minutes in the glass. The release of a wonderful array of aromas was allowed to permeate the air. On the nose, it is quite earthy with hints of gravel, truffles, and cherry. The floral bouquet comes through nicely, while the cherry accents entice. On the palate, it is a surprisingly fresh, full-bodied wine. Though filled with vigor, it does not over power. The ’55 is elegantly rich in complexity and flavors of spice and fruit is followed by a sublime and long finish. The 1955 Cheval Blanc is a steal at $600 a bottle.

Today, Chateau Cheval Cheval Blanc is owned by by Albert Frere and Bernard Arnaut. Perhaps I should forward them a copy of this article and with a bit of luck, they’ll invite me to taste the legendary 1947 Cheval Blanc.

“But that my friends, I sincerely hope that will be another story … ”

SPAIN’S NOBLE GRAPE

I love the city of Burgos. This is the historic capital of Castile and the home of the legendary, El Cid Campeador. Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, was a Castilian nobleman and military leader who was instrumental in the recapturing of Spanish lands from their Muslim conquerors.  On a personal note, I would like to add that Burgos is the ancestral home of the Alonzo clan.

Today I am joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Esmerelda Diaz. We are enjoying Tapas and some of the more popular wines from the Ribera del Duero region, at the ever popular, Cafe de Bocaos.

Tapas are a wide variety of appetizers served along with Spanish cuisine. Tapas may include everything from mixed olives, cheese, breads, anchovies, mackerel, sardines, and one of my particular favorites, chopitos. A popular dish consisting of battered fried baby squid.

“Let me begin by telling the readers,” Esmerelda chuckled softly. “I am not related to El Cid, Rodrigo Diaz.”

“You are too funny,” I chuckled softly.

“I also have a suprise for you,” Esmerelda’s eyes crinkled into a smile. “One of your favorites.”

“Jamon Iberico!” I explained jubilantly.

Iberian ham, also known as pata negra, “black hoof,” is a type of cured ham common to Spain and select regions in Portugal. The Portuguese know this style of curing meats as “presunto Iberico.”

“Our table has been set for a wonderful feast,” Esmerelda beamed with excitement. “Shall we begin?

“Salud,” I toasted her.

Tempranillo is a full-bodied wine wine made from a variety of black grape that is quite plentiful in Spain. The name is derived from the Spanish, temprano, “early.” This is because Tempranillo grapes ripen several weeks earlier than most other Spanish grapes. Tempranillo has thrived throughout the Iberian Peninsula since the days of the Phoenician colonies around 1100 BCE.

Our first selection, Vinedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero Noble 2004, is indeed a noble wine and lives up to the noble tradition that is Tempranillo. The vines produce grapes for this very special wine are more than 70 years old. Our 2004 Garcia Figuero Noble was aged in American oak for fifteen months with an additional six months in French oak. Next the wine spends a final fifteen months in the bottle before leaving the cellar. The final product is a sheer delight. On the eye, the color is a deep ruby-red. The nose is herbaceous with hints of berries, plum, vanilla, tobacco, and leather. On the palate, it is full of ripened fruit, jam, followed by a woody mineral quality. The finish is long and will most definitely continue to improve with age. The alcohol content is 14% on this big red with a price tag of $160 to match.

“The 2004 Noble is often served with steaks and heartier dishes,” Esmerelda paused for effect. “I prefer this Tempranillo with venison.”

“I must say, that this is among the best Tempranillo I have tasted in a long time,”I said in conclusion. “Definitely well-worth the wait.”

Our next selection, Monticello Gran Reserva Rioja Alta 1996, proved to be another wonderful Tempranillo based wine. On the eye it is a deep ruby color with hues of brick. The nose is filled with sweet ripe fruits followed by an array of concentrated flavors.  Our Gran Reserva was indeed a complex and powerful wine yet filled with grace and elegance. It is full-bodied with mature tannins and an enticing finish topped off by a hint of seductive spice. The alcohol content is 14.5% with a price tag of $25.

“1996 was actually a good year for Riojas,” Esmerelda smiled in fond reflection. “This Gran Reserva pairs nicely with steaks and sharp cheese.”

“I would even go so far as to pair this Rioja with fish,” I remarked with assurance. “Those aficionados of red wine with fish will find our Grand Reserva the perfect compliment.

Our next selection, Bodegas Medrano-Irazu Rioja Crianza 2001, is from a family vineyard that prides itself on still using the traditional method of foot-pressing the grapes. The vines of Medrano-Irazu boast about that they are least 20 years old and indicative of the Rioja Alavesa region. The wine produced in this hilly terrain of Northern Spain are characterized by the cooler climate. a Rioja Crianza is 100% Tempranillo with a deep ruby red color. There are aromas of tobacco and cigar that spirit the senses. The wine is full-bodied with a long but green finish. Typically Rioja Crianza is aged at least one year in American and French oak, our 2001 could benefit from further aging. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $30.

“I would pair our 2001 Rioja Crianza with grilled meats or traditional Spanish tapas like red peppers, Serrano ham, potatoes, and mushrooms,” Esmerelda flashed me a wide beaming smile.

“On that note, I think we should order another round of tapas, a second bottle of Rioja Crianza,” I paused on the moment to collect my thoughts. “And enjoy the classical guitarist who is about to come on stage.”

“Salud,’” we toasted each other … “But that my friends is another story …”

TERROIR: THE SOUL OF WINE

When I am asked about my preferences in wine, my usual answer is, “Italian wines are my forte and Spanish wines are my heritage. However, Georgian wines are my passion.” Another of my passions, in the world of wines, is “terroir.” I come from the school of thought that terroir is everything. I had it drummed into my head that the secret to great wine is terroir, terroir, terroir … And why not? We all know the adage, “You are what you eat.” That being the case, why wouldn’t hold true in the realm of wine.

To the French, terroir is an almost magical word in the realm of wine and cheese. The French have been known to spend hours upon hours discussing the virtues of terroir. What then is terroir? In a nutshell, terroir can be defined as not only geography, but culture as well. According to the French Wine Guide, ” A terroir is a group of vineyards (or even vines) from the same region, belonging to a specific appellation, and sharing the same type of soil, weather conditions, grapes and wine making savoire-faire, which contribute to give its specific personality to the wine.”

Let’s begin with a quick look at a French cheese like Roquefort. It is believed that this delectable cheese can only be produced in a small area of the country. There is a profound belief by the local people that the grass and vegetation consumed by the sheep, is indicative of the style of cheese produced. Such a diet, along with environment are vital elements which will have an effect on the milk produced by the sheep. In turn, the resulting cheese is truly unique and one of a kind. However, it is also imperative to factor in “savoire-faire.” The local people also believe that they have a flair for making an inimitable cheese. Hence, the combination of geophysical and human are key components that make Roquefort specific to its terroir.

For me, the most striking example of terroir is with wine. In France, people do not refer to wines according to the type of grape, but according to terroir. Of course soil and microclimate contribute and influence the quality of wine, as does aging and the art of making wine. Taking these key factors into account, the French see every facet of wine making as unique and deserves the proper recognition.

Last week we took a good look at some of the more common terms to describe the aromas, flavors, and subtle complexities when describing wine. Today, we will continue to expand our wine vocabulary as we continue down the path of wine discovery.

Many of the following wine descriptions are often used by sommeliers and wine professionals. Once you have a better understanding of how we use these descriptions, you will have a much clearer understanding of a wine’s characteristics and flavor profile.

Let’s begin by assessing that the wine has referred to as “bright.” Definitely not a reference to color. A bright wine is one with higher acidity and makes your mouth water.

When wine has a “charcoal quality,” this is a term that is often used with dry wines, especially those with higher tannin levels. These wines are typically rustic and gritty in flavor. Sometimes the term “pencil lead” is used as a description. In this context, the term is used to denote a wine that is less refined.

Next up, “chewy tannins.” Simply put, when you take a sip of wine that has chewy tannins, there is a sensation that the inner walls of your mouth are left feeling dried out. Now you feel that you must “chew,” or clean the insides of your mouth.

“Cigar box?” Absolutely. This wine has hints of cedar wood with an abundance of smoke. This is a very popular way to describe a wine that is meant to sit, sip, and enjoy.

“Earthy” is a popular expression that is often used by wine professionals. Typically, it is a reference to the aromas and flavors that are reminiscent of mushrooms or the forest. Every now and then someone will use the expression, “barnyard,” to describe a wine. Do keep in mind that this expression is considered archaic and gone by the way side. 

What is meant by referring to a wine as “elegant?” When a wine is considered elegant, it means that the wine has aged well over time. Along with the passage of time, the wine has become more refined and desirable. It is interesting to point out that many wines considered elegant, initially had higher acid, or even green characteristics. A perfect example would be my favorite wine, Barolo. A quality Barolo requires time to develop its majestic qualities as the “Wine of kings, king of wines.”

Moving from kings, we are confronted with a pretender. To refer to a wine as “flamboyant,” is to accuse the wine to being guilty of an over abundance of fruit … ‘Nuff said.

Want to make a sommelier or wine expert cringe? Just describe a wine as “jammy.” A novice will often describe a wine that is rich in fruit with very little tannin as jammy. Zinfandel and Shiraz are often described as jammy wines.

To say that a wine is “round” is to say that the wine has a good sense of body and not overly tannic. You can also conclude that the wine is refined, and easy to drink.

When we say a wine has good “structure,” this refers to the levels of tannin, acid, and alcohol. With a balanced wine, no single component stands out, the wine is smooth, and with a pleasing texture. Structured wines, due to higher tannin and acid levels, often take a few years to soften.

When we refer to a wine as one with good “transparency,” we mean that the wine clearly portrays all of the unique aspects of its flavor. For example, clear notes of fruit, floral, and mineral.

“Unctuous?” Surely, you jest. The term unctuous means that the wine has an oily and slippery feel on the palate. This is due to low acid and high glycerol levels. Some Chardonnay and late harvest sweet wines exhibit an oily character.

Winding down, we come to the term “vegetal.” Due to high levels of pyrazines, a red wine can often display aromas and flavors of green bell pepper and or vegetation. Definitely not a desirable trait by any stretch of the imagination. My pet name for such wines is a “pyrazine fiend!”

I do realize that with all of the various wine descriptions, understanding a wine’s characteristics can seem challenging. Rest assured that the more familiar you become with wines, their descriptions will become second nature.

I will conclude by saying that the individual nature of tasting means that descriptions may be perceived differently among different tasters … “But that my friends, is a different story…”

DEVELOPING WINE SCENTS AND FLAVORS

I am sure that it has crossed your mind on many occasion why wine smells and taste certain ways. What I also find interesting is that wine smells and tastes like virtually every fruit except grapes. With this in mind, how do vintners develop aromas of vanilla or flavors of cherry?

The answer is quite simply, fermentation. During this process, yeast eats the grape sugar and converts it into alcohol. Since the environment is controlled, vintners have somewhat of a free hand to express themselves in the aiding of the wine’s development.

For example, the apple flavors in Chardonnay result from malolactic fermentation, in short, a secondary fermentation. This process softens, yet maintains a tartness that is reminiscent of green apples. This secondary fermentation also gives the wine a creamy mouthfeel. The buttery quality often associated with oaked Chardonnay is a byproduct of this fermentation process.

Aromas and flavors of vanilla comes about from oak aging. In essence, the addition of  “oaking” would be in some ways comparable to seasoning a meal to add flavor. Through the aging in oak, a myriad of aromas can be unleashed to accent the wine’s bouquet. With regard to the wine’s flavor profile, oak aging adds to the richness and complexity of the wine. Depending on the type of oak used, and the length of time aged, not only do hints of vanilla show through, every flavor from caramel, coconut, cinnamon, clove, smoke, tea, mocha, and butter.

What about the berry flavors in wine? Fermentation also gives rise to an assortment of these flavors in red wine. Climate also plays a major role during this process. If grapes are grown cooler climates, the wine will take on more cranberry or currant scents and flavors. We describe this as the wine being, tighter. However, grapes grown in warmer regions will have richer red fruit which we describe as along the lines of strawberry or juicy blackberry. Let’s take Merlot for example. When grown in cooler climates, aromas and flavors of strawberry, red berry, plum, cedar, and tobacco are in abundance. When these grapes are grown in warmer regions, blackberry, black plum, and black cherry abound. Those grapes grown in hot regions will typically produce wines with aromas and flavors of fruitcake and chocolate.

With white wines, scents and flavors are primarily the lighter fruits. These include apple, pear, citrus, peach, apricot, melon, kiwi, banana, mango, pineapple, and an aray of tropical fruits. It is also important to note that white wines are much more acidic.

When considering red wines, common aromas and flavors are comprised of the darker fruits. These typically include cherry, cranberry, strawberry, blackberry, jam, raisin, and fig. Red wines also permeate floral tones and spices. Also keep in mind that red wines have prevalent tannins.

We already learned of the effects that climate can have on wine. However, climate also plays a critical role in developing grape clusters and their innate flavor profiles. Case in point, a wine’s style will depend entirely on where the grapes are grown. Cabernet Sauvignon is a perfect example. When grown in cooler regions, Cabs will often show tart, tight flavors like red cherries or currants. When grown in in much warmer areas, the grapes will be much more ripe. The level of ripeness is also dependent on amounts of exposure to sunlight. This in turn accounts for jucier fruit flavors as plums, strawberries, raspberries, and blue berries.

The last point I would like to make is the role that scent plays on our tastebuds. In reality, we can only taste for sensations of sweet, bitter, sour, and salt. On the other hand, our nose can discern thousands of individual scents. In turn, this capability allows you to taste hundreds of various food flavor nuances. This is why it is most important to really swirl the wine in your glass before tasting. When you first take a deep whiff, before you drink, be aware that you have opened up your senses to a total picture of all that the wine has to offer. Upon tasting and hitting all of your tastebuds, you will then and only then, undertand the wine’s complete flavor profile. We can honestly conclude that “the nose knows.”

With that in mind, is there in actuality a difference in the wine’s “aroma” versus the wine’s “bouquet?” Technically, the term “aroma” refers to the scents presented by the grape’s varietal character. This is quite evident in younger wines. For example, with a Riesling we could conclude that the primary aroma is the scent of peach. With Chardonnay, we may conclude that the primary aroma is apple. While with Pinot Noir, we may distinguish aroma of strawberry. However, we generally use the term “bouquet” to refer to the complex scents that emerge from older, more mature wines. This term can also be used when referring to secondary scents that are directly influenced by the winemaker.

Now that we have a clearer understanding as to how and why wine can smell like vanilla and taste like cherries, we will next take a look at how it can finish like satin.

“But that my friends, is a different story … “