BENELUX SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS

Settling back into my seat, I languidly surveyed my surroundings. Luxembourg’s Cafe Konrad is quite the place to enjoy a cozy afternoon with friends, and enjoy some fine liqueurs. My thoughts drifted back to California. Growing up in Los Angeles, I never would have thought I would adjust so well to the harsh winters of Europe. In LA when the temperature drops to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, we Angelinos are predicting the possible end of the world. A terrible day for me was when I had to put up the top on my M Roadster. Then again, my heated seats were a big help in enduring the cold just a tad longer. Ok, my apologies for having a laugh at the expense of my readers who have never been to sunny Southern California. Our weather is typically warm and lovely most year round.

Today, I am joined by long time friend and fellow sommelier, Martine Ries. Martine and I were classmates at, ESS, the European School for Sommelier. We have met today for a special tasting of spirits from the Benelux Nations, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg. Hence the name. This economic union between the “countries of the lowlands” has been in existence since 1950. For those of you who are not familiar with this part of Europe, both Belgium and the Netherlands are often referred to as the “Lowlands,” which most scholars agree is a loose Latin translation from when the Romans controlled the region. Luxembourg, on the other hand, is referred to the “Gibraltar of the North.” This is because of the duchy’s impregnable Fortress of Luxembourg. Unfortunately, the landmark site was demolished in 1883.

For today’s tasting, Martine selected one of Luxembourg’s most popular cafees, the Konrad. “Which spirit is up first?”

“Jenever, from the Netherlands,” she smiled as she filled our glasses.

Jenever is the national drink of the Netherlands and first distilled circa 1500s. It is a juniper based spirit that is some times referred to as “Dutch or Holland gin.” There are two types of Jenever, “oude” and “jonge” (old and new).  This reference is with regard to distilling technique, not aging. Jonge is a blended spirit, primarily from grain alcohol, and infused with juniper. However, alcohol derived from molasses or sugar beets are quite acceptable in the blending process. Oude is distilled with only grains such as wheat, rye, and or barley, along with an infusion of juniper. Oude is sometimes aged in wood, resulting in malty, woody, and smoky flavors in the same vein as whiskey.

“Tulip glasses,” I queried, as I examined the traditional ceramic styled bottle of Zuidam Young Grain Jenever.

“This is the traditional way to serve Jenever. Some even prefer it chilled or on the rocks,” Martine chuckled softly. “Purists such as yourself would balk at the thought.”

“Touche,” I chuckled. The nose on our Jenever was lightly scented with juniper, vanilla, and bread. The mouth-feel was characteristically gentle and easy to drnk. The alcohol content is 35% with a price tag of $40.

“I’m glad you enjoyed it because I know that you are not particularly fond of gin,” Martine’s eyes brightened as she smiled.

Our next selection, Van Wees Zeer Oude Jenever, is from one of the Netherlands top distillers. The nose permeated delicate aromas of juniper, vanilla, oak, and grain. On the palate, there were rich flavors grain, with notes of toffe and fudge. Aged for just over a year in oak, this oude Jenever is 37% alcohol with a price tag of $55.

“I selected two young spirits,” Martine paused lightly. “Do keep in mind that Jenever ages well, and brands that have been aged for 25-35 have also left their mark on the international market.”

Mandarine Napoleon, was it really Emperor Napoleon’s favorite liqueur? Hardly. Mandarine Napoleon though one of Belgium’s oldest liqueurs, was first distilled by Antoine-Francois de Fourcroy in 1892, dispelling the myth that the liqueur was a favorite of the Emperor.

Most Triple Secs actually contain orange peels from Curacao, while De Kuyper’s Mandarine Napoleon uses only the finest Mandarin oranges. In turn, they have been macerated for four weeks in neutral grain spirits, and then combined with exotic spices. These include, cardamon, cinnamon angelica, clove, nutmeg, along with black and green teas. The resulting liqueur is a subtle blend of tenderness and passion, and an unforgettable experience. Meant to be drunk neat, the bouquet is wonderfully scented and followed by a mouth-feel of citrus fruit that is sure to warm the cockles of your heart. The alcohol content is 38% with a price tag of $35.

“I love the warm fuzzy feeling I get after the first glass,” Martime giggled under her breath. “Mandarine Napoleon has been known to sneak up on those who imbibe, so I will issue a warning beforehand.”

“On that note, how about another one of those little tummy warmers,” we simultaneously broke into laugher.

Modern cassis first appeared in 1841, and Luxembourg’s Chateau de Beaufort Cassero Liqueur is among the best. It is made solely from blackcurrants. All natural, dark red in color, it is a very popular after dinner liqueur. Typically it is served neat and very well chilled. However, it is popular, and quite acceptable, to serve mixed. In Luxembourg the most popular mix with Cassero is cherry brandy. Champagne, white wine, and soda water are all popular mixes. The alcohol content is 15% with a price tag of $45.

“Some of my countrymen also prefer to take Cassero with hot water,” she shook her head in non-approval. “I guess the thought here would be like a type of grog.”

“Definitely not my palate,” I cracked an amused smile. On completely different note, Agatha Christie’s fictional detective, Hercule Poirot, was quite fond of drinking cassis. I am sure that Chareau de Beaufort was among his favorites.

“But that my friends, is another story …”

VOUVRAY: THE FLAGSHIP CHENIN BLANC

The Loire Valley has been producing wines ever since the Romans settled the region back in the 1^st century. By the 5^th century, Loire had flourished into a premier viticultural region whose wines were highly prized throughout the ancient world. During the Middle Ages, it is interesting to point out that the wines of Loire were more highly prized than their contemporaries from Bordeaux.

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni. We are in the city of Tours to enjoy some of the region’s local wines. Whenever I am asked to recommend a sweeter white wine, Vouvray immediately comes to mind. However, though fruit forward, not all Vouvray is sweet. This “Right Bank“ wine ranges in styles from dry and austere to the richest dessert wines as well as excellent sparkling wines. Vouvray, “Pineau de la Loire,” as it is known to the French, is made exclusively from Chenin Blanc. So what makes Vouvray so special? It simply has a remarkably long life. Wines of quality that have been cellared for 30 years often show incredible freshness and liveliness.

Our first selection, Marc Bredif Vouvray 2010 is a very stylish wine. In the glass, this slightly effervescent wine is a light straw yellow. On the nose, it displays an intense fruitiness that is filled with notes of white flowers. The palate is filled with the flavors of apricots, nectarines, and honeydew, while the over all juiciness of the wine prevails. There is also a secondary trace of almonds that I found pleasant. Though the wine’s fruity characteristics prevail, it finishes dry and clean. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $20.

“Marc Bredif is very nice on a warm summer evening,” Ivelisse flashed a quick grin as she spoke in her usual light tone. “This is an ideal match for white fish or sushi.”

“I particularly enjoyed this wine’s mouthfeel and found the finish to be lingering and pleasant,” I would even consider pairing it with baked ham.”

Our next selection, Francois Chidaine Les Argiles Vouvray 2011 is bright and lively in the glass. On the nose, it is filled with citrus fruits dominated by orange blossoms. There are also subtle herbal hints with a pleasurable nuttiness. On the palate, the mouthfeel is on the drier side with clean lines and fresh acidity. It is complex and filled with an array of minerals. The finish is long and fruity. It is 100% Chenin Blanc and from 40 year old certified organic vines from the Loire Valley. The alcohol content is 13.5% with a price tag of $25.

“This wine will pair best with mild poultry dishes,” Ivelisse paused to collect her thoughts. “As for fish, perhaps the best choice would be halibut.”

“Definitely a wine that will age gracefully,” I clearly displayed my pleasure with her selection.

Our last wine, Domaine S.A Huet 2007 is more dry than medium and is wonderfully concentrated. In the glass, its coloring is golden and depicts the “Old World” style. On the nose, the bouquet is filled with an assortment of citrus fruits with lemon and lime prevailing. There are also floral, green-apple, and mineral notes. On the palate, there are abundant flavors of honey, spice, lemon, and sweet pear. It is a wine that is bright and vivid in character. I also found it to be a well- integrated wine with an elegant and long finish. The alcohol content is 13% with a price tag of $60.

“Excellent wine,” Ivelisse flashed me a wide beaming grin. “Definitely pairs well with chicken, fish, and shellfish.. I especially enjoy it with scallops.

“I like the subtle nuances of this wine. One to sip and enjoy,” I nodded in agreement. I would share this fine 2007 on a quiet evening at home with that very special person.”

“For such an evening, I would pair Vovray with cheese,” Ivelisse paused on the moment to collect her thoughts. “I should think, Cabecou, Camembert, Crottin de Chavignot, and Livarot.”

“All would pair nicely,” I patted her hand lightly.

“Is that a hint?” Ivelisse giggled softly.

But that my friends, is a different story …”

SOME FRENCH WINES THAT ARE A MUST TRY

Today I am joined by friend and fellow sommelier, Ivelisse Negroni.  We are in the small historical town of Samur in the French region of Pays de la Loire. This area is renown for its chateaus and of course, their wine. From our patio table, we have a lovely view of the plaza square. We are enjoying a bottle of Pouilly Fume. This is an excellent white wine with one major drawback. It is only sold within the immediate province. We have been recalling some of our favorite wine stories. One that I particularly like to recount took place some years ago, while I was a distributor in California. I was tasting Chilean wines with the head wine buyer at one of Los Angeles’ leading wine retailers when Carlton, one of the store’s sales reps, approached Esteban and I with a question.

“I have a question,” Carlton’s tone was one of uncertainty. “My customer is looking for a bottle of wine, but she can’t remember the name.”

“It is the wine that is so popular with the ladies for lunch,” she was quick to break in.

Esteban and I turned to the customer in question, and without hesitation replied, “Rombauer.”

“You guys are great! All three of you,” she took Carlton by the arm. “Please find me a bottle.”

Once he was free, Carlton returned to thank us for our help. “How did you guys know which wine she wanted?”

As head wine buyer, it is my responsibility to have readily available those wines that our customers enjoy,” Esteban was first to reply.

“Gregory, surely this wine is not your palate, so how did you know?” Carlton queried.

“It is inconsequential what is or isn’t my palate. Frankly, preference is subjective,” I chuckled under my breath as I paused for effect. “Like Esteban, I must know what people like, yet encourage them to take a step outside the box, and try new and different styles of wines.”

I often share this story, not to praise Esteban or myself, I share it because we inspired Carlton to open his mind to new ideas. Today, Carlton is a sommelier in one of LA’s most cutting-edge fusion restaurants. Much too often people pigeon-hole their palates and continue to drink the same wines, day in, and day out.

Not to mention those people who get caught up in “the wine of the moment.” Much too often we find ourselves seeking only those mainstream labels because we fancy ourselves chic. When I come home to Los Angeles for a visit, I notice that my family and friends are quick to serve California wines. In Europe, not much changes. People are quick to serve local popular wines.  Even in my own household, I am quick to pop open a bottle of Italian or Georgian wine.

One of the things that I most enjoy while exploring the wines of any country, is rediscovering those priceless gems that I have not enjoyed for awhile. France is a perfect example. There are so many styles of wine that are relatively unknown outside of the country. France has a long history of viticulture that predates the Romans so it is interesting to and fun to explore their wine traditions. Here are a few gems that are readily available on the international market. I highly recommend you hold off on that bottle of Chardonnay, step out of the box, and have a bit of summer fun with these varietals.

Mauzac is a very popular grape varietal in Southwestern France, and prevails in the regions of Gaillac and Limoux. Locally it is known as Mauzac Blanc. In Gaillac, there is a move to produce more wines of quality to increase their exports. Typically, producers in Gaillac have used Mauzac to make aromatic sparkling wines that are soft and mildly sweet on the palate. While in Limoux, Mauzac is often used in blending. The popular Blanquette de Limoux, blends Mauzac with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc to create this renown style of wine. Mauzac is ever prestigious with the French and is one of the few white grape varietals that is allowed to be blended with Bordeaux.

Ivelisse selected as our first wine of the tasting, Robert & Bernard Plageoles Mauzac Nature Sparkling 2010. In the glass, our Mauzac  is slightly cloudy with only gentle bubbles. The nose is delicate with prevailing scents of citrus. On the palate, it is off dry, textured, and balanced. There are generous amounts of apple and pear that round out its flavor profile. There is a beautiful and natural acidity that finishes with a kiss of sweetness. The alcohol content is 12% with a price tag of $45.

“Most people are not aware that Mauzac actually predates Champagne, and was first produced in Gaillac in the 16^th century,” I spoke in a tone that was matter of fact. “Perhaps you should also explain to our readers the method for making this style of wine.”

“But of course,” Ivelisse smiled with antication. “It is known as Methode Gaillacoise or Methode Rurale. Quite simply, the wine is put into the bottle before it has fermented dry. It is this continued fermentation process that gives the wine its bubbles.”

“I find Mauzac to be a very enjoyable sparkling wine and very different from Champagne.”

“For me, Mauzac works best when served as an aperitif,” Ivelisse smiled as she poured us both another glass.

Ugnic Blanc is a varietal that prevails throughout southern France. In Languedoc and Provence, winegrowers like it for its freshness. It is often used as a base for many blends dry white wines. It is distinguishable by its banana aroma. In Cognac, it is known as “Saint-Emillon,” and the predominant grape varietal in making fine brandies.

Ivelisse selected a La Cadence Ugni  Blanc 2012. In the glass, it is a glossy pale yellow. On the nose, there is a distinct freshness in the bouquet. The prevailing aromas are blooming flowers and citrus fruits. On the palate, our Ugni Blanc is quite lively. There are notes of herbs and apples and the wine’s soft texture is followed by a vibrant and fresh finish. The alcohol content is 11% with a price tag of $10.

“I enjoyed the liveliness of this Ugni Blanc,” Ivelisse’s eyes brightened as she smiled.“ Very  refreshing.”

“I liked its finish,” I paused, moistening my lips.“ Quite flavorful.”

“Since this wine is zesty and refreshing, I would pair it with flaky fish,” she paused to collect her thoughts. “In this way, the wine will balance the delicate fish flavor.”

Bourgogne Aligote is a light white wine that is often referred to as “Burgundy’s other white grape.” It is beloved by the local people, and since it does not age all that well, many enjoy Aligote as their daily drinker.

Ivelisse chose an A&P  Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron 2010. This is a great summer wine. In the glass, it is a light straw color and displays an enticing liveliness. On the nose, it blooms with the scent of fresh flowers, apples, and lemons. There is also a very slight hint of chalk. On the palate, it is crisp and acidic, with a very nice balance of fruit, herbs, and minerals. This charming wine finishes with nice acidity and beckons you to drink more. The alcohol content is 12.5% with a price tag of $25.

“Definitely the best example of Burgundian Aligote,” I gave a nod of approval. “If we we order shellfish for dinner, this is the wine.”

“Definitely a very good wine that is enjoyable and easy to drink,” Ivelisse paused slightly. “I would serve Aligote as an aperitif. It would also pair nicely with cheese.”

“What cheeses would you select?” I queried.

“I would serve Charolais or Maconnais,” Ivelisse flashed me an almost too delightful smile.

“On that note, I’m famished.” I gave her a quick nod and a wink. “Where shall we eat?”

“I know a quaint little café within walking distance that I am sure you will enjoy,” she smiled brightly.

So did we pair Aligote with shellfish or did Ivelisse win out and we enjoyed the wine as an aperitif … “That my friends, is another story.”

PAIRING WINES WITH THE OTHER WHITE MEAT

Dinner with close friends is always a special affair. Tonight we enjoyed Pork Tenderloin Cordon Bleau with mushrooms and mustard cream sauce. Pork tenderloin is one of the best pork cuts. For me, it is the “Chateaubriand” of pork. As for the wine …we paired our feast with a lovely white Burgundy … What? White wine with pork? Sacraledge! Or is it?

Though often referred to as the “other white meat,” what wines actually pair best with pork? Pork has undergone a huge change over the past few decades. In order to select the best wine with pork, the first thing we must take into consideration is preparation. If our pork has been roasted it, is only logical to pair roasted meats with red wines. However, let me be the first to challenge this rationale. A very nice Old Vine Chenin Blanc would pair very nicely. The secret is to serve the wine very cold. Step out of your comfort zone and try a wonderful wine from South Africa. The 2010 Tormentoso is only $14 a bottle and a good beginning.

In this article, I would like to focus on those white wines that are a perfect compliment to the other white meat. When pairing wines with dishes, I always take into consideration texture, sauces, and spices. Remember, our objective is to enhance and fully bring out the flavors of our meal. A popular dish in Lviv is pork with apple sauce. I have found that a Pinot Gris with good pear fruit like New Zealand’s 2012 Neudorf Maggies Block is very competative at $20 a bottle. Perhaps a toasty Chardonnay is more your palate. A 2009 MacMurry definitely enhances the dish’s flavors and is only $14 a bottle.

I am often asked what pairs best with sweet and sour pork (my family has a penchant for Cantonese cuisine) My sister is quick to grab for a Merlot Rose. However, my immediate thoughts are to go with an off dry Riesling. A 2011 Domaine Albert Mann Cuvee Albert at $30 should do nicely. Also consider a very elegant Chardonnay. My preference would be a 2010 Stag’s Leap Karia. The wine has excellent balance, minimal oak, and only $22 a bottle. Let’s not rule out a very fruity white such as a Colombard. A 2010 from France’s COX Vinyards is just $20 a bottle. A Semillon Chardonnay would also compliment the dish. A 2012 from Australia’s Jacob’s Creek is a classic pairing and a mere $13 bottle.

When it comes to garlic pork, it is best to go with fresh whites. An Arneis like a 2012 Cantina del Castello di Santa Vittoria from Piedmonte is an excellent choice at only $20 a bottle. Should Viognier better suit your palate, I’d recommend a 2012 Ruthglen Viognier. Even though this wine is from down under, it is priced competitively at $20 a bottle. With pork dumplings, a Riesling like Dreissigacker is a good go to wine. The 2008 Rhinehessen slightly favors the dry side, but I just love this great organic Riesling. It is priced at only $20 a bottle. Let’s be bold. Try a Spanish Torrontes. My reccomendation would be 2012 Vina Mein. Young and ready, it is a good buy at $20 a bottle. Argentina also produces some exceptional Torrontes. Piattelli Cayafete Premium is a lovely wine at only $15 a bottle. With spicy pork, the spice and light sweetness of a Gewürztraminer, like a 1999 Trimbach Cuvee des Seigneurs de Riaupierre at $30 a bottle will best compliment this dish.

As for herbal pork, a creamy Chardonnay with notes of apple, citrus, and oak won’t overwhelm the mild herbal flavors. Try a wonderful wine from California’s Russian River Valley, a Marimar Estate 2010 Acero Don Miguel Vineyard. At $30 a bottle, this unoaked Chardonnay exudes a creaminess that is unparalleled.

What about pork loin, you ask? An excellent choice would be from California’s Napa Valley. A 2009 Pinot Blanc from Robert Foley Vineyards is an ideal choice at $25 a bottle. If you are feeling Italian and musical, try a Prosecco. Perhaps a Zardett Tre Venti Brut. At $25 a bottle, the 2011 is a must try.

In Europe, we eat a lot of sausages. With pork sausage, to capture its flavors, it is best to go with a rich Pinot Gris. My first pick is a Trois Chateaux Kunz-Bas. It is rich, ripe, and incredibly luscious and only $25 a bottle. King Estate of Oregon’s Willamette Valley is the benchmark for this Oregon style of wine. The 2011 Domaine Pinot Gris is a worthwhile buy at $40 a bottle. A spicy Viognier like a 2010 Triennes Saint Fleur. At $20 a bottle, it is a wonderful buy. Aged Semillon is Australia’s gift to the wine world, and Hunter Valley produces some of the best. My pick would be a 2013 Brockenwood Semillon. At only $25 a bottle, it is sure to warm the cockles of your heart.

Moving right along, we come to some very traditional pork dishes like the classic pork chop. For this pairing I’d like you consider stretching your boundaries. Try a 2008 Inama Vin Soave Classico from Italy. This lovely white wine is 100% Garganega grapes, and is a perfect match that makes the meal fruitier and livelier.

Ever popular over the holidays and Sunday dinner with family, is the ham. It is important to remember that the wine’s fruit and acidity must must balance with the smoke and saltiness of the ham. Gewürztraminer is a safe choice. As is a Pinot Gris from Alsace, or even a Santa Barbara County Chardonnay from Melville. However, my pick would be a 2002 Basserman-Jordan Spatlese Pfalz Forster Jesuitengarten. This is a very good value at $25 a bottle. It is fortunate for us that they did not calculate the price by the length of the name.

Today we explored our pairing options with some very diverse wines from around the world. Once again I challenge you to think outside the box and expand your horizons. Like I always tell my sister, the worst that could possibly happen is that the pairing won’t be to your palate.

As for the wine we enjoyed with our tenderloin dinner. We selected a 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet Vielles Vignes from Domaine Vincent & Francois. At $50 a bottle, the wine was a perfect accompaniment to the evening.

Now if you really want to think outside the box, try a Mendocino, California Chardonnay. A 2010 Bliss Family Vineyard would be my next selection. This is a crisp and elegant wine that Grandpa Irv assures me is as versatile as a Swiss Army Knife. This gem of a wine is only $13 a bottle … “But that my friends, is a different story …”